Soldering Boards-- How To?

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

I have tackled a few simple electronic repairs and, quite honestly, my
technique leaves alot to be desired. I have a 25 or 40 Watt pencil
type from Radio Shack. Is there any good sites or books that show you
how to do the job right? Is my equipment adequate? I am not talking
about troubleshooting here, but technique. Usually, I am just
swapping out capacitors and such, any guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks.

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In article <d986bfea.0406251015.23f1c60c@posting.google.com>, biddy67
@hotmail.com says...
> I have tackled a few simple electronic repairs and, quite honestly, my
> technique leaves alot to be desired. I have a 25 or 40 Watt pencil
> type from Radio Shack. Is there any good sites or books that show you
> how to do the job right? Is my equipment adequate? I am not talking
> about troubleshooting here, but technique. Usually, I am just
> swapping out capacitors and such, any guidance would be appreciated.
> Thanks.
>
Can't remember if this group requires a real e-mail address, but here
goes.

There are many internet sites that discuss soldering, I did a "google"
search and found many. There are large companys that want to sell you
courses "Pace Inc." etc. I was taught by my employer and was soldering
for 25+ years, whoopeeee. Anyway try at the link below and view the
illustrations provided to see if that's what you want.

http://www.mtechnologies.com/building/atoz.htm

--
I. Care
Address fake until
the spam goes away

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

In article <d986bfea.0406251015.23f1c60c@posting.google.com>, biddy67
@hotmail.com says...
> I have tackled a few simple electronic repairs and, quite honestly, my
> technique leaves alot to be desired. I have a 25 or 40 Watt pencil
> type from Radio Shack. Is there any good sites or books that show you
> how to do the job right? Is my equipment adequate? I am not talking
> about troubleshooting here, but technique. Usually, I am just
> swapping out capacitors and such, any guidance would be appreciated.
> Thanks.
>
Can't remember if this group requires a real e-mail address, but here
goes.

There are many internet sites that discuss soldering, I did a "google"
search and found many. There are large companys that want to sell you
courses "Pace Inc." etc. I was taught by my employer and was soldering
for 25+ years, whoopeeee. Anyway try at the link below and view the
illustrations provided to see if that's what you want.

http://www.mtechnologies.com/building/atoz.htm

--
I. Care
Address fake until
the spam goes away

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

In article <d986bfea.0406251015.23f1c60c@posting.google.com>, biddy67@hotmail.com (Rob) wrote:
>I have tackled a few simple electronic repairs and, quite honestly, my
>technique leaves alot to be desired. I have a 25 or 40 Watt pencil
>type from Radio Shack. Is there any good sites or books that show you
>how to do the job right? Is my equipment adequate? I am not talking
>about troubleshooting here, but technique. Usually, I am just
>swapping out capacitors and such, any guidance would be appreciated.
>Thanks.

Take a look at a Jameco catalog.There are several good variable controlled
types at reasonable to bargain prices.

greg

Reply to gregs

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

>
>I have tackled a few simple electronic repairs and, quite honestly, my
>technique leaves alot to be desired. I have a 25 or 40 Watt pencil
>type from Radio Shack. Is there any good sites or books that show you
>how to do the job right? Is my equipment adequate? I am not talking
>about troubleshooting here, but technique. Usually, I am just
>swapping out capacitors and such, any guidance would be appreciated.
>Thanks.
>
>
>

A 23 watt pencil is ok for soldering, but it is way too cold for de soldering
and you will burn up boards trying.

A 45 watt is just about too hot for anything but connectors.
Get a decent variable heat controlled station and learn how to use it.

I have a TENMA, which is MCM Electronics' house brand with several different
tips that I really like. About $80 when they have a sale.
Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

Rob wrote:

> I have tackled a few simple electronic repairs and, quite
> honestly, my technique leaves alot to be desired. I have
> a 25 or 40 Watt pencil type from Radio Shack.

Worse than useless on a pcb, likely to run way to hot and damage traces
or to be too cold and cause cold solderings. The first three
recommendations are a Weller, next look for something of comparable
quality .... and DO get a sensible selection of tips. Don't worry too
much about price over the counter, I have used the same Weller for 28
years.

Kind regards

Peter Larsen

--
*******************************************
* My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk *
*******************************************

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

I often read that one should heat the work, and let the work melt the
solder. However what I never read anywhere was that you have to apply a bit
of solder to the tip (beyond just "tinning" it) so that there is sufficient
surface contact between the iron and the work for the heat to transfer to
the work. If the tip is tinned but "dry", you can wait all day, burn the
track off the board, and still never get a good joint.

"Rob" <biddy67@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news986bfea.0406251015.23f1c60c@posting.google.com...
> I have tackled a few simple electronic repairs and, quite honestly, my
> technique leaves alot to be desired. I have a 25 or 40 Watt pencil
> type from Radio Shack. Is there any good sites or books that show you
> how to do the job right? Is my equipment adequate? I am not talking
> about troubleshooting here, but technique. Usually, I am just
> swapping out capacitors and such, any guidance would be appreciated.
> Thanks.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

Rob wrote:
> I have tackled a few simple electronic repairs and, quite honestly, my
> technique leaves alot to be desired. I have a 25 or 40 Watt pencil
> type from Radio Shack. Is there any good sites or books that show you
> how to do the job right? Is my equipment adequate? I am not talking
> about troubleshooting here, but technique. Usually, I am just
> swapping out capacitors and such, any guidance would be appreciated.
> Thanks.

Don't places like Radiuo Shack have info leaflets or sections in their
catalogues with such info ?

Maybe a basic electronics contruction book would be a good place to start.

geoff

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

Thank you all for your sound advice. My precision radio shack device
is a 30-35W, probably paid $5 for it five years ago. Clearly, I need
to improve the tool. Truth is, I don't expect to do enough soldering
to justify an $80 variable unit and the time required to make proper
use of it, I'll have to keep an eye out for one at yardsales. I
noticed Weller also has some 25 and 35W fixed temp units. If I go
that route, which one would be best? My use is very infrequent,
perhaps once or twice a year, usually I am simply replacing a noisy
capacitor or similar simple work, so I need to desolder and resolder
without setting anything on fire....

Peter Larsen <SPAMSHIELD_plarsen@mail.tele.dk> wrote in message news:<40DE827F.7C81E9BF@mail.tele.dk>...
> Rob wrote:
>
> > I have tackled a few simple electronic repairs and, quite
> > honestly, my technique leaves alot to be desired. I have
> > a 25 or 40 Watt pencil type from Radio Shack.
>
> Worse than useless on a pcb, likely to run way to hot and damage traces
> or to be too cold and cause cold solderings. The first three
> recommendations are a Weller, next look for something of comparable
> quality .... and DO get a sensible selection of tips. Don't worry too
> much about price over the counter, I have used the same Weller for 28
> years.
>
>
> Kind regards
>
> Peter Larsen

Reply to Rob

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

In <S_6dnbysrqu3sULdRVn-ug@comcast.com>, on 06/27/04
at 03:21 PM, "Tim Padrick" <Padrick@comcast.net> said:

>I often read that one should heat the work, and let the work melt the
>solder. However what I never read anywhere was that you have to apply
>a bit of solder to the tip (beyond just "tinning" it) so that there is
>sufficient surface contact between the iron and the work for the heat
>to transfer to the work. If the tip is tinned but "dry", you can wait
>all day, burn the track off the board, and still never get a good
>joint.

Do whatever you need to do to get all surfaces up to temperature and
keep them there long enough for the flux to work and the solder to
melt.

Another point that seems to be missed is that one should heat the
surface with the larger thermal mass first. Watching me you might not
even notice that I've done that. It will appear that I've slipped down
the resistor lead to the PC pad, but I'm really heating the lead first.
Usually, the leads have more mass than the pad and the lead may have
some production dirt and oxides. This will require more flux time. The
pad is likely to be clean since a component was recently removed. (if
the pad looks tired and grey, be sure to remove the old, dirty solder)

---

A good solder joint will be bright, smooth, and shiny. Lumpy usually
means too little heat. Dull usually means dirty. More bad joints result
from too cold than too hot, but too much heat is not good either.

Solder makes a solid solution with the copper. A good joint should
"wet" the copper with solder. Surface oxides will prevent this solution
from forming. The solder will just sit there, much like a drop of water
on a glass slide. Flux breaks trough the oxides. Unfortunately, the
really active fluxes are also good conductors of electricity and would
require thorough removal after use. As a compromise we use fluxes that
are active at high temperatures and non conducting, chemically inert at
room temperatures. On relatively clean surfaces the flux contained
within solders designed to be used for electronics do a good job. If
one or both of your surfaces is dirty or excessively oxidized, clean
them before attempting to solder.

-----------------------------------------------------------
spam: uce@ftc.gov
wordgame:123(abc):<14 9 20 5 2 9 18 4 at 22 15 9 3 5 14 5 20 dot 3 15
13> (Barry Mann)
[sorry about the puzzle, spammers are ruining my mailbox]
-----------------------------------------------------------

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

Ok. I am going to make the plunge and get an adjustable heat station.
The Weller WLC-100 looks like a sound choice, but I read that it is
best to get one where the temperature can be set. The WLC-100 has
different settings, but not calibrated to temperature. Any
suggestions for a cheapie w/ temp settings? Someone reccommended a
Tenma which MCM sells, but they offer no descriptions and it is
unclear which would satisfy the dial in requirement.

"Geoff Wood" <geoff@paf.co.nz-nospam> wrote in message news:<ozGDc.5073$NA1.472167@news02.tsnz.net>...
> Rob wrote:
> > I have tackled a few simple electronic repairs and, quite honestly, my
> > technique leaves alot to be desired. I have a 25 or 40 Watt pencil
> > type from Radio Shack. Is there any good sites or books that show you
> > how to do the job right? Is my equipment adequate? I am not talking
> > about troubleshooting here, but technique. Usually, I am just
> > swapping out capacitors and such, any guidance would be appreciated.
> > Thanks.
>
> Don't places like Radiuo Shack have info leaflets or sections in their
> catalogues with such info ?
>
> Maybe a basic electronics contruction book would be a good place to start.
>
> geoff

Reply to Rob

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

In <d986bfea.0406280448.1f42a754@posting.google.com>, on 06/28/04
at 05:48 AM, biddy67@hotmail.com (Rob) said:

>Ok. I am going to make the plunge and get an adjustable heat station.
> The Weller WLC-100 looks like a sound choice, but I read that it is
>best to get one where the temperature can be set. The WLC-100 has
>different settings, but not calibrated to temperature. Any
>suggestions for a cheapie w/ temp settings? Someone reccommended a
>Tenma which MCM sells, but they offer no descriptions and it is
>unclear which would satisfy the dial in requirement.

I'm not real keen on the Tenma tips and I didn't find the Wellers to be
very reliable. Currently I'm using a Temna on my bench, but I grumble
about the tips. The Wellers were much more expensive to operate because
the heating elements failed regularly.

I like adjustable units with temperature readouts, but for casual work
I don't think the readout is necessary. The most important charasteric
is a dependable temperature. Fine adjustment of temperature is
becomming more important because one is faced with so many different
situations. One minute you are working on 70's or 80's vintage
construction (or older) and the next you are faced with very fine
traces of the current stuff.

-----------------------------------------------------------
spam: uce@ftc.gov
wordgame:123(abc):<14 9 20 5 2 9 18 4 at 22 15 9 3 5 14 5 20 dot 3 15
13> (Barry Mann)
[sorry about the puzzle, spammers are ruining my mailbox]
-----------------------------------------------------------

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

In article <d986bfea.0406280448.1f42a754@posting.google.com>, biddy67@hotmail.com (Rob) wrote:
>Ok. I am going to make the plunge and get an adjustable heat station.
> The Weller WLC-100 looks like a sound choice, but I read that it is
>best to get one where the temperature can be set. The WLC-100 has
>different settings, but not calibrated to temperature. Any
>suggestions for a cheapie w/ temp settings? Someone reccommended a
>Tenma which MCM sells, but they offer no descriptions and it is
>unclear which would satisfy the dial in requirement.
>

Again, Jameco has one for $59. Temperature setpoint is calibrated on dial, but no other readout. The
LED also blinks indicating heating.
Jameco #229673

I used uncontrolled devices for years. Its mostly a matter of getting used to what your using.
The Weller unit should work fine. I've seen pencils with built in regulation. I have also
made and used tips with variable transformers, as well as triac controlled
lamp dimmers. One thing thats really good, is a grounded iron.

greg

>"Geoff Wood" <geoff@paf.co.nz-nospam> wrote in message
> news:<ozGDc.5073$NA1.472167@news02.tsnz.net>...
>> Rob wrote:
>> > I have tackled a few simple electronic repairs and, quite honestly, my
>> > technique leaves alot to be desired. I have a 25 or 40 Watt pencil
>> > type from Radio Shack. Is there any good sites or books that show you
>> > how to do the job right? Is my equipment adequate? I am not talking
>> > about troubleshooting here, but technique. Usually, I am just
>> > swapping out capacitors and such, any guidance would be appreciated.
>> > Thanks.
>>
>> Don't places like Radiuo Shack have info leaflets or sections in their
>> catalogues with such info ?
>>
>> Maybe a basic electronics contruction book would be a good place to start.
>>
>> geoff

Reply to gregs

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

Barry Mann wrote:

> I'm not real keen on the Tenma tips and I didn't find the Wellers to
> be very reliable. Currently I'm using a Temna on my bench, but I
> grumble about the tips. The Wellers were much more expensive to
> operate because the heating elements failed regularly.

Jeepers, I've had two Wellers that have never failed in over 20 years.
Maybe the newer ones aren't made as well ....

geoff

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

Thanks for the suggestion, but I ended up splurging a little and
ordering a Weller WTCPT. The closed loop control seemed like a good
feature to have. HCM Electronics has them for $108 w/ free shipping.
Much more than I needed, but I figured at my rate of use, it should
last a couple of lifetimes....

szekeresREMOVE@adelphia.net (gregs) wrote in message news:<0-Cdnd9t79U-VH3dRVn-hA@adelphia.com>...
> In article <d986bfea.0406280448.1f42a754@posting.google.com>, biddy67@hotmail.com (Rob) wrote:
> >Ok. I am going to make the plunge and get an adjustable heat station.
> > The Weller WLC-100 looks like a sound choice, but I read that it is
> >best to get one where the temperature can be set. The WLC-100 has
> >different settings, but not calibrated to temperature. Any
> >suggestions for a cheapie w/ temp settings? Someone reccommended a
> >Tenma which MCM sells, but they offer no descriptions and it is
> >unclear which would satisfy the dial in requirement.
> >
>
> Again, Jameco has one for $59. Temperature setpoint is calibrated on dial, but no other readout. The
> LED also blinks indicating heating.
> Jameco #229673
>
> I used uncontrolled devices for years. Its mostly a matter of getting used to what your using.
> The Weller unit should work fine. I've seen pencils with built in regulation. I have also
> made and used tips with variable transformers, as well as triac controlled
> lamp dimmers. One thing thats really good, is a grounded iron.
>
> greg
>
> >"Geoff Wood" <geoff@paf.co.nz-nospam> wrote in message
> > news:<ozGDc.5073$NA1.472167@news02.tsnz.net>...
> >> Rob wrote:
> >> > I have tackled a few simple electronic repairs and, quite honestly, my
> >> > technique leaves alot to be desired. I have a 25 or 40 Watt pencil
> >> > type from Radio Shack. Is there any good sites or books that show you
> >> > how to do the job right? Is my equipment adequate? I am not talking
> >> > about troubleshooting here, but technique. Usually, I am just
> >> > swapping out capacitors and such, any guidance would be appreciated.
> >> > Thanks.
> >>
> >> Don't places like Radiuo Shack have info leaflets or sections in their
> >> catalogues with such info ?
> >>
> >> Maybe a basic electronics contruction book would be a good place to start.
> >>
> >> geoff

Reply to Rob

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

>Subject: Re: Soldering Boards-- How To?
>From: "Geoff Wood" geoff@paf.co.nz-nospam
>Date: Tue, Jun 29, 2004 5:15 AM
>Message-id: <xbcEc.5412$NA1.496671@news02.tsnz.net>
>
>Barry Mann wrote:
>
>> I'm not real keen on the Tenma tips and I didn't find the Wellers to
>> be very reliable. Currently I'm using a Temna on my bench, but I
>> grumble about the tips. The Wellers were much more expensive to
>> operate because the heating elements failed regularly.
>
>Jeepers, I've had two Wellers that have never failed in over 20 years.
>Maybe the newer ones aren't made as well ....
>
>geoff
>
>
>

What do you find the problem with the Tenma tips?

Mine have been working fine for years.
Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

"Geoff Wood" <geoff@paf.co.nz-nospam> wrote in news:xbcEc.5412$NA1.496671
@news02.tsnz.net:

> Barry Mann wrote:
>
>> I'm not real keen on the Tenma tips and I didn't find the Wellers to
>> be very reliable. Currently I'm using a Temna on my bench, but I
>> grumble about the tips. The Wellers were much more expensive to
>> operate because the heating elements failed regularly.
>
> Jeepers, I've had two Wellers that have never failed in over 20 years.
> Maybe the newer ones aren't made as well ....
>
> geoff
>
>
>

If you are using a wet sponge to clean the tip of the weller, stop! The
thermal shock is what kills them. I saw a guy go through 1 handle a month
doing that.

r

--
Nothing beats the bandwidth of a station wagon filled with DLT tapes.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

"Rich.Andrews" <spmaway@ylhoo.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9518551C97AFAmc2500183316chgoill@10.232.1.1...
> "Geoff Wood" <geoff@paf.co.nz-nospam> wrote in news:xbcEc.5412$NA1.496671

> > Jeepers, I've had two Wellers that have never failed in over 20 years.
> > Maybe the newer ones aren't made as well ....

> If you are using a wet sponge to clean the tip of the weller, stop! The
> thermal shock is what kills them. I saw a guy go through 1 handle a month
> doing that.

And yet I worked in a place where dozens of people did just that for many
years with hardly any failures. In fact I have a spare heating element
unused in a decade, and still use a damp sponge. I guess it's all in how you
use it.

TonyP.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

> "Geoff Wood" wrote ....
> > Jeepers, I've had two Wellers that have never failed in
> > over 20 years.
> > Maybe the newer ones aren't made as well ....

"Rich.Andrews" wrote ...
> If you are using a wet sponge to clean the tip of the weller,
> stop! The thermal shock is what kills them. I saw a guy go
> through 1 handle a month doing that.

If you apply the SHAFT to the sponge (just to see the steam?)
then you are likely right. OTOH, if you do it properly and
clean only the TIP, they last for decades IME.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

In <xbcEc.5412$NA1.496671@news02.tsnz.net>, on 06/29/04
at 11:15 PM, "Geoff Wood" <geoff@paf.co.nz-nospam> said:

>Barry Mann wrote:

>> I'm not real keen on the Tenma tips and I didn't find the Wellers to
>> be very reliable. Currently I'm using a Temna on my bench, but I
>> grumble about the tips. The Wellers were much more expensive to
>> operate because the heating elements failed regularly.

>Jeepers, I've had two Wellers that have never failed in over 20 years.
>Maybe the newer ones aren't made as well ....

The Weller controlled irons with the Currie effect (magnetic)
temperature regulation are great, and I have 30 year old units that
work (but the cords are suffering).

I had poor luck with the electronic units.

-----------------------------------------------------------
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wordgame:123(abc):<14 9 20 5 2 9 18 4 at 22 15 9 3 5 14 5 20 dot 3 15
13> (Barry Mann)
[sorry about the puzzle, spammers are ruining my mailbox]
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Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

In <20040629142107.26478.00000956@mb-m03.aol.com>, on 06/29/04
at 06:21 PM, rickpv8945@aol.com (Richard Kuschel) said:

>What do you find the problem with the Tenma tips?

The Weller tips stay clean much longer and they are easier to tin.

There is also a difference in the physical profile. The Weller tips
transfer heat better. (Perhaps I'm just used to the Weller tips and
can't learn to use the Tenmas.)

-----------------------------------------------------------
spam: uce@ftc.gov
wordgame:123(abc):<14 9 20 5 2 9 18 4 at 22 15 9 3 5 14 5 20 dot 3 15
13> (Barry Mann)
[sorry about the puzzle, spammers are ruining my mailbox]
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Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

In <Xns9518551C97AFAmc2500183316chgoill@10.232.1.1>, on 06/30/04
at 01:22 PM, "Rich.Andrews" <spmaway@ylhoo.com> said:

>If you are using a wet sponge to clean the tip of the weller, stop!
>The thermal shock is what kills them. I saw a guy go through 1
>handle a month doing that.

Interesting, I used a wet sponge on the Currie effect irons with no
problems. It's ironic that the irons come with a nice tray and a
sponge.

How do you feel about the effectiveness of metallic mesh cleaners? How
long do they last? I can get several months or more out of a sponge.

-----------------------------------------------------------
spam: uce@ftc.gov
wordgame:123(abc):<14 9 20 5 2 9 18 4 at 22 15 9 3 5 14 5 20 dot 3 15
13> (Barry Mann)
[sorry about the puzzle, spammers are ruining my mailbox]
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Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

"Richard Crowley" <rcrowley7@xprt.net> wrote in news:10e5kgdb38m2b35
@corp.supernews.com:

>> "Geoff Wood" wrote ....
>> > Jeepers, I've had two Wellers that have never failed in
>> > over 20 years.
>> > Maybe the newer ones aren't made as well ....
>
> "Rich.Andrews" wrote ...
>> If you are using a wet sponge to clean the tip of the weller,
>> stop! The thermal shock is what kills them. I saw a guy go
>> through 1 handle a month doing that.
>
> If you apply the SHAFT to the sponge (just to see the steam?)
> then you are likely right. OTOH, if you do it properly and
> clean only the TIP, they last for decades IME.
>
>

Yes, a damp sponge is OK but a wet one is not. I have 3 weller irons that
have lasted over 15 years without a problem save for the wire failing.

r

--
Nothing beats the bandwidth of a station wagon filled with DLT tapes.

Reply to Anonymous

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