Need to replace JBL 8in drivers in L60T home speakers...

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

> I have a set of JBL L60T speakers that are in need of a surround
> replacement. I know that I can replace the surrounds with rubber
> instead of foam, but I am interested in changing the drivers
> altogether. The internal dimensions of the cabinet are about 1.6 cubic
> feet, which makes it difficult to find really good replacements. The
> other issue is that the overall efficiency of the cabinets are about
> 89 db. I would like to increase this moderately but realize that by
> doing so, I am also modifying the function of the crossover networks.
> Can anyone recommend which route I should take with replacement??

Thanks in advance...
4 answers Last reply
More about need replace drivers l60t home speakers
  1. Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

    Brad wrote:

    > I have a set of JBL L60T speakers that are in need of a surround
    > replacement. I know that I can replace the surrounds with rubber
    > instead of foam,

    There could be minor parameter issues, but it appears to be the wiser
    solution.

    > but I am interested in changing the drivers
    > altogether.

    What is it that you want to obtain?

    > The internal dimensions of the cabinet are about 1.6 cubic
    > feet, which makes it difficult to find really good replacements.

    I don't see a problemk, appears to be a very reasonable volume for a
    probable 8" unit.

    > The other issue is that the overall efficiency of the cabinets
    > are about 89 db. I would like to increase this moderately

    Simply said you can't unless you also increase box volume, more LF
    efficiency generally as a simple guideline necessitates a larger box.

    > but realize that by doing so, I am also modifying the function
    > of the crossover networks.

    That is - almost - the least worry. Cabinet tuning could be a larger
    worry, it is already a "concern" when using a non-standard front
    suspension, but the front suspension is not likely to alter a units
    properties all that much, this based on gp knowhow gained from Duelunds
    unit rebuilds in the 1970-ties.

    >> Can anyone recommend which route I should take with replacement??

    Use original spareparts, you loudspeakers will then be ebayable, ebay
    them, get something else that solves whatever it is you want solved.

    If you want to use a different bass unit, then the best avenue is to
    start with designing a proper box for it and DO maintain the box width,
    it is a parameter in the cross-over design for acoustic reasons. Build a
    smaller box for the original "top-units", whatever they are, and do
    maintain distance to side of box as well as to top of box, both are also
    likely to be parameters in the original cross-over.

    There are two possible outcomes: the upper range frequency response and
    the induction of the voice coil of the new unit will be similar enough
    to the original unit for the sound to be acceptable or not.

    Both are compensated for in the current cross-over. If it is a 3-way
    then the frequency response issues may be so well correlated with unit
    size that the compensations fit. The cross-over may be designed so that
    a simple tweaking of a capacitor and resistor in parallel with the unit
    is all that is required, or it may be computer optimized to use the
    least amount of components for lowest manufacturing costs, in which case
    it is untweakable.

    > Thanks in advance...

    Yes, you can also try simply inserting another bass unit. Bass reflex
    tuning will be incorrect, the simple solution is to close the port. No
    matter the units mid-band efficiency rating you will loose bass range
    efficiency or at best maintain it, it will not increase, not even if you
    find a unit with a rated 6 dB higher efficiency.


    Kind regards

    Peter Larsen

    --
    *******************************************
    * My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk *
    *******************************************
  2. Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

    Peter,

    Thanks for the technical advice. I guess my primary concerns for this
    post were pertaining to cabinet volume and driver specs, having built
    cabinets for speakers in the past. At this point, the most probable
    solution is to replace the surrounds and get a little more time out of
    these speakers.

    Was it you that recommended getting some Tannoys in the other forum??
    I've thought of getting new speakers in the past, but it's kind of
    like selecting a mate for life...while they look and sound pretty good
    at the store, you get them home and you find out about those little
    things that irritate you. I used to work in the audio industry, so
    buying decisions are few and far between. Srarting medical school has
    not helped either due to the lack of time spent actively listening.

    I'll figure it out, but thanks for the insight.

    Brad

    Peter Larsen <SPAMSHIELD_plarsen@mail.tele.dk> wrote in message news:<4104FC66.16B063D7@mail.tele.dk>...
    > Brad wrote:
    >
    > > I have a set of JBL L60T speakers that are in need of a surround
    > > replacement. I know that I can replace the surrounds with rubber
    > > instead of foam,
    >
    > There could be minor parameter issues, but it appears to be the wiser
    > solution.
    >
    > > but I am interested in changing the drivers
    > > altogether.
    >
    > What is it that you want to obtain?
    >
    > > The internal dimensions of the cabinet are about 1.6 cubic
    > > feet, which makes it difficult to find really good replacements.
    >
    > I don't see a problemk, appears to be a very reasonable volume for a
    > probable 8" unit.
    >
    > > The other issue is that the overall efficiency of the cabinets
    > > are about 89 db. I would like to increase this moderately
    >
    > Simply said you can't unless you also increase box volume, more LF
    > efficiency generally as a simple guideline necessitates a larger box.
    >
    > > but realize that by doing so, I am also modifying the function
    > > of the crossover networks.
    >
    > That is - almost - the least worry. Cabinet tuning could be a larger
    > worry, it is already a "concern" when using a non-standard front
    > suspension, but the front suspension is not likely to alter a units
    > properties all that much, this based on gp knowhow gained from Duelunds
    > unit rebuilds in the 1970-ties.
    >
    > >> Can anyone recommend which route I should take with replacement??
    >
    > Use original spareparts, you loudspeakers will then be ebayable, ebay
    > them, get something else that solves whatever it is you want solved.
    >
    > If you want to use a different bass unit, then the best avenue is to
    > start with designing a proper box for it and DO maintain the box width,
    > it is a parameter in the cross-over design for acoustic reasons. Build a
    > smaller box for the original "top-units", whatever they are, and do
    > maintain distance to side of box as well as to top of box, both are also
    > likely to be parameters in the original cross-over.
    >
    > There are two possible outcomes: the upper range frequency response and
    > the induction of the voice coil of the new unit will be similar enough
    > to the original unit for the sound to be acceptable or not.
    >
    > Both are compensated for in the current cross-over. If it is a 3-way
    > then the frequency response issues may be so well correlated with unit
    > size that the compensations fit. The cross-over may be designed so that
    > a simple tweaking of a capacitor and resistor in parallel with the unit
    > is all that is required, or it may be computer optimized to use the
    > least amount of components for lowest manufacturing costs, in which case
    > it is untweakable.
    >
    > > Thanks in advance...
    >
    > Yes, you can also try simply inserting another bass unit. Bass reflex
    > tuning will be incorrect, the simple solution is to close the port. No
    > matter the units mid-band efficiency rating you will loose bass range
    > efficiency or at best maintain it, it will not increase, not even if you
    > find a unit with a rated 6 dB higher efficiency.
    >
    >
    > Kind regards
    >
    > Peter Larsen
  3. Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

    Brad wrote:

    > Thanks for the technical advice. I guess my primary concerns for
    > this post were pertaining to cabinet volume and driver specs,
    > having built cabinets for speakers in the past. At this point,
    > the most probable solution is to replace the surrounds and get
    > a little more time out of these speakers.

    Yes.

    > Was it you that recommended getting some Tannoys
    > in the other forum??

    In some context I may have. Context matters and there is also a budget
    context.

    My default recommendation is to give KEF Cresta, preferably the
    smallest, an audition. I haven't heard that specific model, but it has a
    real treble unit instead of the de la mode item consisting of a cutout
    from a cola can and a nice price range. I got myself a pair of KEF Coda
    (first version, T27 and B200) and they have remained in the household
    ever since, and do a very good job since supplemented with a pair of ATC
    9" subs. I lament failing to get me a pair of KEF Q15.2's while they
    made them, I heard the pair in a shop but it just was not in the budget.
    This just to point out that the KEF coax stuff is most charming and
    works well in a room. YMMV.

    > Brad


    Kind regards

    Peter Larsen

    --
    *******************************************
    * My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk *
    *******************************************
  4. Hi, Concerning your JBL L60t's. I was a JBL speaker tech for the largest servicer in the country for over 18 years. If they were mine, I would get the orginal woofer refoamed with the same type foam. You should get another 15 to 20 years out of them. It is my experience that when you go replacing drivers with non orginal parts you lose sound quality 95% of the time. JBL's L series speakers are some of the best made. Although the T's with the Titainium tweeters were not my favorite. If you are looking for more low end I would consider looking at subs, you can pick a good sub up for almost nothing. The Tannoy woofers that you mentioned are good looking drivers, the butal rubber make them look durable and they sound great in Tannoy cabinets but I have never been able to get a flat responce out of anything else I have ever put them in. I'd put them back orginal, JBL had a good crew when those were made. Not like the crap they make today.
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