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Some technical questions on speakers ?

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Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

 

I was looking at the specs on speakers and was not certain what some
of the specifications mean.

The speaker has a sensitivity of 88db. Is a high sensitivity a good or
bad thing?
.. Does a high sensitivity mean that the speaker can work at a very
low volume?
The material of the some speakers are Aramid Fibre, Keviar HOP, paper,
etc. Which would be the better material for a speaker?
Some subwoofers are Bass Reflex or Closed Cabinet. Which is better?
What is Bi-Wiring Connection Capability and does it improve the sound
of the speaker?
Is a 25mm carbon composite dome better than a 25mm Balance dome for
sound?

Would there be much improvement in a 30mm sub woofer speaker compared
to a 20mm sub woofer speaker? (this is the speaker size) to be used
in a small room

Regards Brian

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On Thu, 14 Apr 2005 16:15:57 +1200, Brian <bclark@es.co.nz> wrote:

>I was looking at the specs on speakers and was not certain what some
>of the specifications mean.
>
>The speaker has a sensitivity of 88db. Is a high sensitivity a good or
>bad thing?

It's good thing, so long as all else is equal. Hint - it usually
isn't! :-)

>. Does a high sensitivity mean that the speaker can work at a very
>low volume?

No, all it means is that the speaker will deliver higher volume for a
given power input. The ability to retain clarity at low volume is much
more complex.

>The material of the some speakers are Aramid Fibre, Keviar HOP, paper,
>etc. Which would be the better material for a speaker?

Never choose a speaker on the basis of the material used for the
driver cones. Everything from solid metal to paper can work very well
- or very badly, depending who designed the driver!

>Some subwoofers are Bass Reflex or Closed Cabinet. Which is better?

That is a very vexed question to which there is no simple answer. The
majority of modern spoeakers are ported designs, but some of the very
best are sealed boxes.

>What is Bi-Wiring Connection Capability and does it improve the sound
>of the speaker?

This is simply the use of a crossover seperated into two halves, so
that the tweeter and bass/mid drivers may be independently driven.
There is no reliable evidence that it has any beneficial effect, and
it should be noted that several top makers such as Dynaudio and JMLab
use single-wire connections, while others such as ATC state that they
provide bi-wiring terminals purely for marketing reasons.

>Is a 25mm carbon composite dome better than a 25mm Balance dome for
>sound?

I have no idea what is a 'Balance' dome, but as with cones, the
material of which a dome is made has little to do with the sound.
Everything from silk to solid Beryllium is used, with varying effect.

>Would there be much improvement in a 30mm sub woofer speaker compared
>to a 20mm sub woofer speaker? (this is the speaker size) to be used
>in a small room

It has to provide less excursion for a given volume at any frequency,
and I am not aware of *any* really good sub which uses a 200mm driver.
I took the liberty of presuming that you meant 300mm and 200mm, as
your actual figures would be tweeters! :-)
--

Stewart Pinkerton | Music is Art - Audio is Engineering

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

 

"Stewart Pinkerton" <patent3@dircon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:fsvr51lfidfmacdqdht992c7iai0fg6o72@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 14 Apr 2005 16:15:57 +1200, Brian <bclark@es.co.nz> wrote:
[snip]
> It has to provide less excursion for a given volume at any
frequency,
> and I am not aware of *any* really good sub which uses a 200mm
driver.
> I took the liberty of presuming that you meant 300mm and 200mm, as
> your actual figures would be tweeters! :-)
> --
>
> Stewart Pinkerton | Music is Art - Audio is Engineering

Pinky as ever, dead on.

To enlarge on the comment above, bass is all about moving air in large
quantities. Thus it follows that a small driver - as small as 110mm -
used in some designs will have to have a very long excursion
capability to achieve the same volume of air movement (or at least air
activation) as a driver twice or three times the diameter. The
mechanical constraints of the cone mounting usually mean that the
further the cone moves the less linear that movement becomes and by
definition the sound produced becomes distorted. Conversely a large
cone does not have to move anything like as much to activate the same
volume of air, so given a good and compliant mechanical mounting the
sound produced should be 'better' - especially as the input frequency
gets lower.

Having said that, and before anyone (PInky included) flames me, the
larger cone will have considerably more mass than the smaller cone and
will thus need both more energy and (significantly) more time time to
get it moving and for it to stop moving afterwards. The result will be
a tendency to 'smearing' of the bass sounds and a loss of what the
magazines call 'kick' or 'punch.'

In the final arguement, the choice of design depends on how you want
to use the driver and for what purpose. If you want surround sound
from films etc then I think many would say that a sub-woofer with a
big driver should be your choice as the bass from such tends to be
over-done for effect and has little connection with musical reality.
Similarly if you want to play pop or rock at high levels then a
sub-woofer or an integrated speaker with a big bass unit would
probably be best as at high volumes you loose the ability to hear the
low frequency definition due to selective hearing attenuation by you
brain*. If on the other hand you are in a small room and want to
listen at more normal (i.e. lower) levels and the music detail - as
perhaps in jazz - is important, then a good integrated speaker design
(i.e. all the drivers in one box) with a smaller bass/mid unit may
suit you better, even though it may be a little lacking on the deepest
bass notes.

*(Ever noticed that if you sit stationary in the car with music on, it
sounds quite good and has reasonable or even plenty of bass, but when
you are moving, apart from perhaps having to increase the volume a
little, the bass levels seem to drop? This is because there is
considerable local low-frequency noise interference in the car -
engine noise, tyre/road rumble, etc - which is in the same audio band,
so your brain tends to selectively switch off to that noise and you
loose the musical bass in the process. The same will happen with loud
music, that your brain will adjust to the highest component level and
attenuate to that, and as that will be at higher frequencies (than
bass) you will loose bass definition. At a rock concert you often only
really know that the bass is still there in power because you feel it
rather than hear it.)

In the end it is all down to compromise and personal choice. At worst
listen before you buy - preferably to your own discs that you know
well - at best get a home trial.

OK all (Pinky included) - do your worst and flame me to your heart's
content - this is just my personal opinion.


--
Woody

harrogate2 at ntlworld dot com

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

 

harrogate2 wrote:

<snip>

> *(Ever noticed that if you sit stationary in the car with music on, it
> sounds quite good and has reasonable or even plenty of bass, but when
> you are moving, apart from perhaps having to increase the volume a
> little, the bass levels seem to drop? This is because there is
> considerable local low-frequency noise interference in the car -
> engine noise, tyre/road rumble, etc - which is in the same audio band,
> so your brain tends to selectively switch off to that noise and you
> loose the musical bass in the process.

<snip>

Yes indeed, I am aware of this effect. Especially when
listening to *Kraftwerk* or *Yello* in my car :-)

Once I had the possibility to test a noise cancelling
headphone in my car. The specs were, if I recall correctly,
-15 dB from 50 Hz to 1.2 kHz. The effect was breathtaking.
The bass was clear, loud and well defined. The constant and
periodic rumble was cancelled effectively. Except when I
crossed a big truck. Then I heard its rumble twice: first
the actual one and then the correction signal with inverted
phase...

There was one drawback though. After a one hour drive my
ears had adapted. So when I arrived home and switched off
the noise cancelling device I heard a +15 dB of city rumble.
It was quite disturbing...

Cheers,

Franco

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

 

Brian wrote:
> I was looking at the specs on speakers and was not certain what some
> of the specifications mean.
>
> The speaker has a sensitivity of 88db. Is a high sensitivity a good
or
> bad thing?

It can be a good thing, because it means you don't need such a
powerful amplifier to produce a given amount of loudness.

> Does a high sensitivity mean that the speaker can work at a very
> low volume?

It doesn't matter. Any speaker that works at high volumes will work at
low volumes.

> The material of the some speakers are Aramid Fibre, Keviar HOP,
paper,
> etc. Which would be the better material for a speaker?

Whatever a good designer chooses. When you start asking too many
questions about how a speaker is made, you're second-guessing the
designer. You are well-advised to judge speakers based on their
performance, more specifically the sound quality.

> Some subwoofers are Bass Reflex or Closed Cabinet. Which is better?

See former comments about trying to second-guess the designer.

> What is Bi-Wiring Connection Capability and does it improve the
sound
> of the speaker?

Absolutely not.

> Is a 25mm carbon composite dome better than a 25mm Balance dome for
> sound?

See former comments about trying to second-guess the designer.


> Would there be much improvement in a 30mm sub woofer speaker
compared
> to a 20mm sub woofer speaker? (this is the speaker size) to be used
> in a small room

See former comments about trying to second-guess the designer.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

 

harrogate2 wrote:


> ...the larger cone will have considerably more mass than the smaller
cone and
> will thus need both more energy and (significantly) more time time
to
> get it moving and for it to stop moving afterwards. The result will
be
> a tendency to 'smearing' of the bass sounds and a loss of what the
> magazines call 'kick' or 'punch.'

The higher mass part is true, the smearing part is not true.

The context is subwoofers, and no proper subwoofer needs to have good
high frequency response. Virtually every subwoofer is electrically
rolled-off above 200 Hz, and it is this roll-off that defines the
transient response of the speaker. Even large speakers with relatively
heavy cones have fairly good response to well above 200 Hz. As long
as the speaker has good acoustical response to somewhat above the
electrical roll-off point which is usually 125 Hz or lower, it's the
electrical filter that causes any "smearing" or lack of ideal
transient response. ]

Smearing is a poor choice of words because the total system is
composed of the subwoofer and the upper-range speaker. The crossover
establishes a division of labor. If the crossover is well-designed,
then the division of labor between the speakers is proper, and total
system response has good transient response.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

 

On Thu, 14 Apr 2005 07:14:11 GMT, "harrogate2"
<harrogate2@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>To enlarge on the comment above, bass is all about moving air in large
>quantities. Thus it follows that a small driver - as small as 110mm -
>used in some designs will have to have a very long excursion
>capability to achieve the same volume of air movement (or at least air
>activation) as a driver twice or three times the diameter. The
>mechanical constraints of the cone mounting usually mean that the
>further the cone moves the less linear that movement becomes and by
>definition the sound produced becomes distorted. Conversely a large
>cone does not have to move anything like as much to activate the same
>volume of air, so given a good and compliant mechanical mounting the
>sound produced should be 'better' - especially as the input frequency
>gets lower.
>
>Having said that, and before anyone (PInky included) flames me, the
>larger cone will have considerably more mass than the smaller cone and
>will thus need both more energy and (significantly) more time time to
>get it moving and for it to stop moving afterwards.

Only partially true. While the larger cone may have more mass, it will
also have a more powerful motor, and stiffer suspension (given equal
Fs and sensitivity).

> The result will be
>a tendency to 'smearing' of the bass sounds and a loss of what the
>magazines call 'kick' or 'punch.'

No it won't, given equality as noted above. The old myth of using
several small drivers because they are 'faster' is just that - a myth.

The tightest (and deepest) bass I've ever heard comes from a subwoofer
system which uses two 15" drivers, but has a Qts of 0.65. Most
commercial 'box' subs have Qts of at least 0.8, and often more than 1.

What the magazines call 'kick', 'punch' or 'slam' has *much* more to
do with peaking up in the 60-80 Hz region. What you think of as
'speed' in this context is almost entirely concerned with Qts, and
this is a *system* design matter, not just a driver function.


>OK all (Pinky included) - do your worst and flame me to your heart's
>content - this is just my personal opinion.

So don't make 'factual' claims! :-)

--

Stewart Pinkerton | Music is Art - Audio is Engineering

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (More info?)

 

On Thu, 14 Apr 2005 16:15:57 +1200, Brian <bclark@es.co.nz> wrote:

>I was looking at the specs on speakers and was not certain what some
>of the specifications mean.
>
>The speaker has a sensitivity of 88db. Is a high sensitivity a good or
>bad thing?
>. Does a high sensitivity mean that the speaker can work at a very
>low volume?
>The material of the some speakers are Aramid Fibre, Keviar HOP, paper,
>etc. Which would be the better material for a speaker?
>Some subwoofers are Bass Reflex or Closed Cabinet. Which is better?
>What is Bi-Wiring Connection Capability and does it improve the sound
>of the speaker?
>Is a 25mm carbon composite dome better than a 25mm Balance dome for
>sound?
>
>Would there be much improvement in a 30mm sub woofer speaker compared
>to a 20mm sub woofer speaker? (this is the speaker size) to be used
>in a small room


The only definite answer I can give to the above is about bi-wiring.
This is a gimmick.

The rest are all matters of design preference. If you want lots of
noise from a low-powered amplifier, high sensitivity could be useful.
But power is cheap these days.

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