CPU too hot.

what kind of cooling do u have?

actually, just stock since its a new build. i have new cooler master case with 2 fans on top 1 back. 2 front and 1 side panel(shark). and vengeance 8gb(2x4gb) with gt560ti vid and 2 500gb hd(old).

Did you remove the little plastic sheet from the thermal pad on the bottom of the CPU heatsink?

yeah. everything is right.
should i change thermal paste?

are the push pins fully engaged, they are really tough to get right, a good amount of force is required.

Points:
- latest BIOS is 3702. (flash if not)
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z6...
- latest drivers, especially the Intel chipset Version 9.3.0.1019 (at the Asus site, addon video from NVidia obviously)

- use Asus' software from the motherboard site for monitoring CPU heat, NOT speedfan (Probe II/Fan XPert). There's NO reason to be using speedfan anyway.
*Not sure which tools apply.

- case fan layout should have INTAKE at bottom-front, and OUTTAKE at top-rear (sometimes two outtake fans). The Antec ONE is $50, supports USB3 and has two outtake fans just FYI.
- case fans are usually 12cm and should be roughly 500 to 800 RPM, 16dB, NON-Variable using the 4-pin MOLEX connector. Don't get high-RPM, variable 1000+RPM. (NCIX may have a list if need be)

- CPU heatsink. Definitely use non-stock. Spend at least $20.

HSF examples:
- $23 (great value) http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=41337&vpn=RR-B10-212P-...

- $70 (expensive, best for overclocking but STILL quieter in idle) http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=42819&vpn=NH-U12P%20SE...

SUMMARY:
- BIOS/drivers
- case fan cooling
- CPU HSF
- ASUS software

for stock clocks stock cooling is ok.

Good video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6lixOebc-8

(about sorting out TOO HOT CPU issue.)

Stock coolers suck get something like this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
it is not the best but much better than stock

Even with stock cooler, is it really normal that just running CPUID raises temp that high? I don't think so.

Anyway, I wanted not to worry about CPU temp at all, so installed Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus on i5-2400. Some people said it's overkill since it's not OC'able CPU, but keeping CPU temp below 50C and silent all the time while playing Skyrim on Ultra/1080p @50-60 FPS is priceless, for ~$20.

Try putting the top fan pushing air INTO the case. I did and reduce 4C+.

still sounds like bad push pins, if you've removed it you must replace the thermal paste, the idea is that there is no air trapped.

Surely he'll want to work WITH the hot air and expel it out the top and bring it in through the bottom.

I'd suggest reseating the cooler with fresh paste, check the seating of the CPU and reset his BIOS. Check temps again with a few different peices of software+check the bios.

Once you've tried that and tried the other suggestions in this thread and still no change, respond with the outcome/any observations.

Am saying it, because originally i had it facing OUT, based on that hot air raises, but then I just tested and that happened. So, its based on experience, the only fans I have OUT are the PSU and the back fan, All others Front, side and top are IN. It might take like 15-20 min just to test it out.

it was probably just getting fresher cooler air to work with, the danger is a stangant pocket somewhere allowing a normally passively cooled component to get too hot.

the convective speed of air is slow with the volumes and temps we are talking about, and anything vaguely resembling a fan will disrupt that natural flow.

My 25k used to max out at 85c at 100% on stock cooling. Just throwing that in there...

Something is going on. That is not right. Are you saying your cpu jumps to the 70s and 80s right after boot and its just idle? Verify if it is idle or if it has a load. Check windows task manager and see what the cpu is doing. Is there a load? Since it's a new build I'm assuming its not oc'ed? I would be looking for a much more basic problem. Cooler not seated on the cpu, is the cooler fan running.