Foam removal?

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Cory Bonnett" <guitarmn@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:t_Y6d.46042$B51.1311@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> I have a situation with Auralex foam remnants sticking to some walls here.
> I'm trying to remove them to put in storage, but the 3M spray adhesive
> worked a little too well, and now I need to get the remaining broken foam
> pieces off the walls with as little effort and paint lost as possible.
I've
> tried Goof Off and Goo Gone, as well as WD40, but they did not work well
at
> all. Is there a specific product to get? Will any generic "adhesive
> remover" do (and take the foam with it)? Am I facing sanding and
> repainting?
>
> TIA!
>
> --
> Cory R. Bonnett
> ABI Recording Studio

____________________________
Hey Cory,

When a lad I worked with 3M, started on the internal sales desk, went on to
expediter, then somehow into music....

Used to get calls similar to yours, was told to tactfully explain that
3M/Scotch (world's largest manufacturer of adhesives, among other things)
had strived for years to find an insoluble adhesive for their masking tapes.

Reason being they wanted it to hold fast under attack from any and all paint
bases, chemicals and solvents, as the common application was to mask for
painting.

So now you have a product, which under sunlight by the way, chemically bonds
to the object's surface - other than glass, metals, ceramics etc - with a
bond that is superior to the bond to it's backing.

If not in sunlight, over time a bond will occur with most surfaces.

Sounds like you're on wood or plasterboard? Abrasion is pretty well the
only way to go...

If on glass, you have the option of razor scraping and rubbing with yer
thumb with cigarette ash, talcum or rouge; then warm water, soft cloth and
mild surfactant.

What is the product number? Contact 3M, they have a massive customer
service/tech department, are very interested in feedback from consumers;
there might be a solvent.

Go through the salesman for the place where you bought it. They can lead
you to the 3M guy who services their account, or their jobber.

Or contact 3M direct. Sounds like you're wanting to talk with their
adhesives or automotive adhesives division...they have about ten
divisions....tape, abrasives, adhesives, electrical, safety products,
medical, space tech.....

The worst call I ever got was from a guy who's yacht had a *finished* a teak
deck on it. Moored uncovered for over a year, he slowly worked on it,
painting the trim and stuff, apparantly he had a ton of 1" masking tape all
over it for the whole time.

He called with your question, and got quite upset when I told him of his new
project: had to scrape it all off, thus damaging the wood.

Sorry.

-bg-
www.thelittlecanadaheadphoneband.ca
www.lchb.ca

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Another solvent which might be worth a try is charcoal lighter fluid....
works well with some types of floor tile adhesive... whatever you use be
aware of possible inhalation or fire hazards...

Rgds:
Eric

"Timothy Lawler" <tlawler1@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:u4_6d.14022$gG4.3383@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> I removed a dozen Auralex foam panels from the ceiling of a house I just
> sold. First I peeled off the foam, using a spatula to assist in the
> separation. That left very little foam stuck on, but most of the spray
glue
> (I had used Auralex' own spray) remained as yellow swirling lines. The
glue
> came off slowly with paint thinner. Brushed it on, left for 5 mins, wiped
> down with rags. Messy and slow, but left the semi-gloss paint in good
> shape. Had the ceiling been flat paint, as is more common, all the
rubbing
> and solvent might not have worked without marring the surface - but it
still
> would have been preferable to sanding. Good luck.
>
> Tim
>
> Timothy Lawler
> Listen to my classical guitar improvisations at
> http://www.timothylawler.com
>
>
>
>
>
> "Cory Bonnett" <guitarmn@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:t_Y6d.46042$B51.1311@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > I have a situation with Auralex foam remnants sticking to some walls
here.
> > I'm trying to remove them to put in storage, but the 3M spray adhesive
> > worked a little too well, and now I need to get the remaining broken
foam
> > pieces off the walls with as little effort and paint lost as possible.
> I've
> > tried Goof Off and Goo Gone, as well as WD40, but they did not work well
> at
> > all. Is there a specific product to get? Will any generic "adhesive
> > remover" do (and take the foam with it)? Am I facing sanding and
> > repainting?
> >
> > TIA!
> >
> > --
> > Cory R. Bonnett
> > ABI Recording Studio
> >
> >
>
>

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Thank you all so much for your thoughtful responses. I will try each on
various areas to see what works best.

--
Cory R. Bonnett
ABI Recording Studio

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

>I have a situation with Auralex foam remnants sticking to some walls here.
>I'm trying to remove them to put in storage, but the 3M spray adhesive
>worked a little too well, and now I need to get the remaining broken foam
>pieces off the walls with as little effort and paint lost as possible.
>I've
>tried Goof Off and Goo Gone, as well as WD40, but they did not work well
>at
>all. Is there a specific product to get? Will any generic "adhesive
>remover" do (and take the foam with it)? Am I facing sanding and
>repainting?
>
>TIA!

Try Oops!, brand name adhesive remover, found at WalMart and other stores. It's
about the best thing out there, won't harm plastics, etc.

You'll probably need to lightly sand the area and paint over it.


--
Dr. Nuketopia
Sorry, no e-Mail.
Spam forgeries have resulted in thousands of faked bounces to my address.

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Richard Kuschel" <rickpv8945@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040930191136.03437.00000848@mb-m27.aol.com...
> >I'm trying to remove them to put in storage, but the 3M spray adhesive
>>worked a little too well, and now I need to get the remaining broken foam
>>pieces off the walls with as little effort and paint lost as possible.
>>I
>
> 3M super adhesive remover will do it.
>
> I don't know what it will do to the Auralex, but it will remove the
> contact
> cement quickly.
>
> The main ingredient in the 3M product is naptha, which is both flammable
> and
> smelly. If you buy naptha (lighter fluid) at a hardware store, it is a
> lot
> less expensive than the 3M product.
>
> Try it on a small surface before going nuts with the product.
> Richard H. Kuschel
> "I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty


I'm about to buy some auralex stuff. Can you double stick tape them to the
wall for easier removal??

I know I'm moving within a year so I need a better solution.


--

-Hev
find me here:
www.michaelspringer.com

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

<< I'm about to buy some auralex stuff. Can you double stick tape them to the
wall for easier removal??

I know I'm moving within a year so I need a better solution. >>

Actually, I can suggest a better solution and it makes the foam far more
effective as well!

Go to the lumber store and buy some 1x2 furring strips, a box of screws and
some angle brackets and a bottle of urethane glue and some stick on foam
weather stripping.

Cut the wood into 24 inch and 23 inch lengths, use the angles and screws to
fashion them into 2'x2' frames that are 2 inches deep. Urethane glue the
aurelex to the frame and let it cure overnight outside. (makes nasty fumes
while curing). Put the foam weather stripping on the back, hang them on the
wall like a picture frame.

The airspace behind the foam makes a 2 inch foam as nearly as effective as the
more expensive 4 inch thick foam. (cite: Everest, Master Handbook of
Acoustics).

Spacing them out a little is also an effective way of getting a little
diffusion as well as aborbtion. There's no need to cover every inch of the
walls with foam.


--
Dr. Nuketopia
Sorry, no e-Mail.
Spam forgeries have resulted in thousands of faked bounces to my address.