looking for good portable/field recorder

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Bert Aerts wrote:

> hey all, i'm looking for a good tool to record on location. i need
> only one (stereo) input, and i wanna have the quality of digital sound
> of 44.1 khz, 16 bit or more...
> also it would be cool if i can connect condensator mics, so phantom
> power would be cool...

Haven't used it, but Marantz PMD670 is one to consider:

http://www.d-mpro.com/users/folder [...] bCatID=180

It has phantom power, it's stereo, and it records to CompactFlash.

Also haven't used these, but you could consider the Edirol R-1 or R-4:

http://www.edirol.com/products/info/r1.html
http://www.edirol.com/products/info/r4.html

I don't think the R-1 has phantom power or standard XLR mic inputs.
A web search indicates the R-4 is new and isn't shipping yet. I think
the same thing goes for the R-1.

- Logan

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Well, I like my Maranta PMD670. Might be more than you need
though. It gots inputskis bote dem fur de condensator
microphonage (and dat phantometer power), and fur a lign,
too.

With a greatolbigabite microdrivenator, ya gets yerself a
greatolbunchaminutes record time fer outten dem location
boonies.

Worth a look. Shop right and get it for $700, plus a bill
for a CF or microdrive.



TM


Bert Aerts wrote:
>
> hey all, i'm looking for a good tool to record on location. i need
> only one (stereo) input, and i wanna have the quality of digital sound
> of 44.1 khz, 16 bit or more...
> also it would be cool if i can connect condensator mics, so phantom
> power would be cool...
> any advice?

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Mike Rivers" <mrivers@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
news:znr1100381370k@trad...
>
> But the world is still waiting for the replacement for the
> professional grade portable DAT recorder.

I think ,you just made my night. I pick up a second hand tascam DA -P1 with
Sony stereo Mic ( I don't use that too much) for $800.00, last year and
it's been my best friend at the little concerts we do . I thought maybe I
was going backwards in buying it .But the tascam dat works well with the
pair of mic's I use.

Peace,
Ed Bridge
Brooklyn N.Y.
http://www.bridgeclassicalguitars.com/

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

i searched for these products, and they all look fine too me. price is
a little bit too much, maybe i should look for a cheaper/2nd hand
solution...

thanx for the advice!

ciao

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <pvBld.15813$Gm6.1828@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net> edbridgeNOSPAM@earthlink.net writes:

> I pick up a second hand tascam DA -P1 with
> Sony stereo Mic ( I don't use that too much) for $800.00, last year and
> it's been my best friend at the little concerts we do . I thought maybe I
> was going backwards in buying it .But the tascam dat works well with the
> pair of mic's I use.

Take good care of it and say nice things to it. Once it dies, it's
highly unlikely that it will ever be repaired. I have a dead DA-P20,
which is why I'm on a quest for a suitable replacement. I could buy a
Marantz PMD670 but I would only consider that a temporary solution,
and it's too expensive to put on the shelf after a year or two. At
least the DAT had a good 8 year run.





--
I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <29905-41977DB7-47@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> Audioetc@webtv.net writes:

> For NLHD portable film sound use they're here now although the
> marketplace is more crowded than ever before.

This is true but it's not what the people who record music as music
are looking for. 2 tracks for $1000 or under, with real mic inputs.

I'm also not comfortable without an inexpensive removable recording
medium (like a DAT) but I guess I'll have to settle for a hard drive
that has sufficient capacity so that I can get through a session
(which might be a long weekend or even a week) without unloading it.
I've been able to manage my Jukebox 3's 20 GB disk without any
emergencies so I guess that concept will have to do until they make
flash memory cheap enough so that I can leave it on the shelf, and
proven permanent enough so that it can be the "master" without a
redundant copy on some other medium.





--
I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <ANNld.2970$J55.2279@trnddc06> mams@NOSPAm-a-m-s.com writes:

> A two channel phantom power supply isn't going to break the bank... and
> if you have a 4 space flight case, any typical DAT machine with pro interfaces
> should do the trick. Probably all can be had on e-Bay for under $600.

But there's a difference between "portable" (which doesn't need a
4-space flight case and a bunch of cables hooking up several units
before you can go to work) and "transportable" (which means you can
pick it all up and carry it easily).

I want it all in one package, just like my TASCAM DAT.

--
I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Mike Rivers wrote:
> In article <ANNld.2970$J55.2279@trnddc06> mams@NOSPAm-a-m-s.com writes:
>
>
>> A two channel phantom power supply isn't going to break the bank... and
>> if you have a 4 space flight case, any typical DAT machine with pro interfaces
>> should do the trick. Probably all can be had on e-Bay for under $600.
>
>
> But there's a difference between "portable" (which doesn't need a
> 4-space flight case and a bunch of cables hooking up several units
> before you can go to work) and "transportable" (which means you can
> pick it all up and carry it easily).
>
> I want it all in one package, just like my TASCAM DAT.

Sounds lke you want a 722 (at half price.)

One of the Japanese guys in the Fostex booth at AES admitted to me they are working on getting a hard drive into the FR2.

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

--
Peace,
Ed Bridge
Brooklyn N.Y.
http://www.bridgeclassicalguitars.com/
"Mike Rivers" <mrivers@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
news:znr1100470482k@trad...
>
> In article <uSPld.16282$Gm6.8369@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net>
edbridgeNOSPAM@earthlink.net writes:
>
> > Hey, you know that trick! I give my 17 year old hot water heater a pat
each
> > day while flipping a load of wash.
>
> 17 years on a water heater! I'm impressed. The ones I buy seem to
> have cracked the secret of the car battery warranty. As soon as the
> warranty period is up, you can count on them going within a couple of
> months.

I know, I have a few apartments that every 10 year , hot water heater is
done. This 17 year old one , in my own place in just a "a.j. smith" and is
over work with my four kids and their baths and bed sheets . . .She's my
lucky hot water heater. :> )




> Good thing some of my audio gear didn't come with a 10 year warranty.
>
I hope my DAT has the same luck."?)

--
Peace,
Ed Bridge
Brooklyn N.Y.
http://www.bridgeclassicalguitars.com/

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On 2004-11-14 mrivers@d-and-d.com said:
>>edbridgeNOSPAM@earthlink.net writes: Hey, you know that trick! I
>>give my 17 year old hot water heater a pat each day while
>flipping a load of wash. 17 years on a water heater! I'm impressed.
>The ones I buy seem to have cracked the secret of the car battery
>warranty. As soon as the warranty period is up, you can count on
>them going within a couple of months.
HEy that anode rod that's supposed to do the electrolysis bit to save
the tank must actually work with the water you have. BAck where I
used to live you were lucky to get ten years on the tanks. THat
stuff was nasty. GO down to take a morning shower and see bright
orange liquid coming out of the shower head.




Richard Webb,
Electric SPider Productions, New Orleans, La.
REplace anything before the @ symbol with elspider for real email

--

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

in article znr1100528229k@trad, Mike Rivers at mrivers@d-and-d.com wrote on
11/15/04 6:59 AM:

> I've tried diligently draining the tank a couple of
> times a year and that doesn't seem to help. Maybe I should fill it
> with vinegar occasionally like I do with my coffee pots? <g>

I live in a place with amazingly high mineral content in the water. It
tastes like a mountain stream, but wreaks havoc with homes like mine which
do not have water softeners.

My gas water heater pops and chunks when it's heating. This is the layer of
mineral deposits breaking away from the bottom and roiling up to the
surface, banging on the inside of the tank. I asked our county gas people
if there was a known fix for this. "Get a new water heater" was the reply.
Apparently there is some way to drain and dig out the crud, but it's really
difficult, time consuming, and messy, and not that effective. A vinegar
wash doesn't get it out - just breaks it up in smaller pieces.

There are folks that make electromagentic collars that surround the water
intake pipe and thus make the water softer. This supposedly realigns
something in the minerals' molecular structure which then makes it
impossible for it to stick to anything. As a side benefit this process
claims that it eventually cleans out encrusted water heaters.

Carlos

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <2vs1qjF2o1d9eU1@uni-berlin.de>,
"L David Matheny" <ldmnews1@netassoc.net> wrote:

> "Carlos Alden" <calden3@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:BDBE0E20.2CF53%calden3@msn.com...
> <snip>
> > There are folks that make electromagentic collars that surround the water
> > intake pipe and thus make the water softer. This supposedly realigns
> > something in the minerals' molecular structure which then makes it
> > impossible for it to stick to anything. As a side benefit this process
> > claims that it eventually cleans out encrusted water heaters.
> >
> This has got to be totally bogus. A conventional water softener might help.
>
>

It might keep the water heater from suffering arthritis pain, though.

-Jay
--
x------- Jay Kadis ------- x---- Jay's Attic Studio ------x
x Lecturer, Audio Engineer x Dexter Records x
x CCRMA, Stanford University x http://www.offbeats.com/ x
x---------- http://ccrma.stanford.edu/~jay/ ------------x

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Water treatments would go a long way, but changing out the anodes would make
a difference, too. But that depends on whether you have electric or gas.
Gas has black pipe running (a electric path to copper waterpipe), but today
it doesn't have to be. Technically you could change out the gas piping for
a flexible plastic and end the problem once and for all (like using optical
to end ground hums). Personally, I just have my gas water heater hooked up
to the water pipe and change the anode connection every couple of years.
The last water heater lasted 18 years. This one's into it's sixth year and
clean as a whistle.

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"Mike Rivers" <mrivers@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
news:znr1100528229k@trad...
>
> In article <2vqnndF2nrs4qU1@uni-berlin.de> kurt@nv.net writes:
>
> > If you change the anode rods out, they can last an amazingly long time.
This
> > information seems to have been forgotten sometime in the past 30 years
or so.
>
> I have a gas water heater. I suspect that the failure mode is that
> sediment collects on the bottom, which eventually insulates the water
> from the burner. I've tried diligently draining the tank a couple of
> times a year and that doesn't seem to help. Maybe I should fill it
> with vinegar occasionally like I do with my coffee pots? <g>
>
>
>
> --
> I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
> However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
> lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
> you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
> and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

in article GdidnT9AjJA8ZgXcRVn-3A@rcn.net, Roger W. Norman at
rnorman@starpower.net wrote on 11/15/04 10:56 AM:

> It is bogus. What it does is act as an electrical anode ending black
> pipe/copper pipe electrical differences that end up as corrosion. Same
> thing happens when a lot of different types of metal are connected to the
> same thing. Doesn't soften the water, just disperses the charge. You can
> find the same thing on gas engines in salt water for outboard boats.

Yup, it sounded too good to be true. The Monster Cable of the home
appliance world. This device is small - a simple electromagnet unit smaller
than a CD and about 1" thick.

I'm surprised they didn't also claim that drinking magnetized water would
also leach out cholesterol in the bloodstream.

Carlos

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

<0junk4me@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:KuWld.14165$jE2.2842@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
>GO down to take a morning shower and see bright
> orange liquid coming out of the shower head.



now when I take morning showers i'm going to be checking for orange stuff
:> )

--
Peace,
Ed Bridge
Brooklyn N.Y.
http://www.bridgeclassicalguitars.com/

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Roger W. Norman" wrote:

> Water treatments would go a long way, but changing out the anodes would make
> a difference, too. But that depends on whether you have electric or gas.
> Gas has black pipe running (a electric path to copper waterpipe), but today
> it doesn't have to be. Technically you could change out the gas piping for
> a flexible plastic and end the problem once and for all (like using optical
> to end ground hums). Personally, I just have my gas water heater hooked up
> to the water pipe and change the anode connection every couple of years.
> The last water heater lasted 18 years. This one's into it's sixth year and
> clean as a whistle.
>

What's the anode connection on a gas water heater ?

I suspect our UK water heaters are a bit different.


Graham

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Look on the leading black pipe. Black pipe (galvanized steel with another
component) ultimately works like a di-electric conductor when in contact
with copper, hence a "device" that bleeds electricity off the pipes and to
ground. I have one that preceeds my water heater, which is prior to my
boiler, and it needs either cleaning or changing every few years. And it's
because there's electricity generated by the difference in the metals. It's
not just in this circumstance that one finds a necessity for an anode. Like
I said, it's required on any outboard or inboard/outboard boat motor in salt
water, too.

Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
generate enough electricity for a house?

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"Pooh Bear" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:419944E8.1379C70D@hotmail.com...
>
> "Roger W. Norman" wrote:
>
> > Water treatments would go a long way, but changing out the anodes would
make
> > a difference, too. But that depends on whether you have electric or
gas.
> > Gas has black pipe running (a electric path to copper waterpipe), but
today
> > it doesn't have to be. Technically you could change out the gas piping
for
> > a flexible plastic and end the problem once and for all (like using
optical
> > to end ground hums). Personally, I just have my gas water heater hooked
up
> > to the water pipe and change the anode connection every couple of years.
> > The last water heater lasted 18 years. This one's into it's sixth year
and
> > clean as a whistle.
> >
>
> What's the anode connection on a gas water heater ?
>
> I suspect our UK water heaters are a bit different.
>
>
> Graham
>

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

At and extremely slow rate. The high rate batteries use acid to accelerate
the ability to draw power, like car batteries with 270 amps of cranking
power. 270 amps is far in excess of what's necessary for a house's normal
consumption. Obviously other factors come into play, and I wasn't really
trying to get into this line of reasoning.

--


Roger W. Norman
SirMusic Studio

"S O'Neill" <nopsam@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:bf6dnUAhBY3r6ATcRVn-uQ@omsoft.com...
> Roger W. Norman wrote:
>
> > Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces
of
> > metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a
method of
> > free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe
with
> > a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
> > generate enough electricity for a house?
>
>
>
> That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <bf6dnUAhBY3r6ATcRVn-uQ@omsoft.com> nopsam@nospam.net writes:

> That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.

If one of those metals is the 'anode rod' then that's a good thing. It
prevents the pipe or the tank from being consumed. That's what anode
plates on the bottom of a boat hull do - keep the electrolytic action
away from metal that, when enough was removed, would would make the
boat leak.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Logan Shaw <lshaw-usenet@austin.rr.com> wrote:

>Haven't used it, but Marantz PMD670 is one to consider:

We posted a comparison of recorders including the PMD670 to our Web
site:

http://www.core-sound.com/comparis [...] -fr-2.html

--
Len Moskowitz PDAudio, Binaural Mics, Cables, DPA, M-Audio
Core Sound http://www.stealthmicrophones.com
Teaneck, New Jersey USA http://www.core-sound.com
moskowit@core-sound.com Tel: 201-801-0812, FAX: 201-801-0912

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Mike Rivers" <mrivers@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
news:znr1100606650k@trad...
>
> In article <bf6dnUAhBY3r6ATcRVn-uQ@omsoft.com> nopsam@nospam.net writes:
>
> > That's how a battery works, and it consumes one of the metals.
>
> If one of those metals is the 'anode rod' then that's a good thing. It
> prevents the pipe or the tank from being consumed. That's what anode
> plates on the bottom of a boat hull do - keep the electrolytic action
> away from metal that, when enough was removed, would would make the
> boat leak.

We're back to boats again.

Peace,
Paul

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Roger W. Norman" wrote:

> Look on the leading black pipe. Black pipe (galvanized steel with another
> component) ultimately works like a di-electric conductor when in contact
> with copper, hence a "device" that bleeds electricity off the pipes and to
> ground. I have one that preceeds my water heater, which is prior to my
> boiler, and it needs either cleaning or changing every few years. And it's
> because there's electricity generated by the difference in the metals. It's
> not just in this circumstance that one finds a necessity for an anode. Like
> I said, it's required on any outboard or inboard/outboard boat motor in salt
> water, too.
>
> Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
> metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
> free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
> a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
> generate enough electricity for a house?
>

Ok - what's 'black pipe' ?

Graham


>
> --
>
> Roger W. Norman
> SirMusic Studio
>
> "Pooh Bear" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:419944E8.1379C70D@hotmail.com...
> >
> > "Roger W. Norman" wrote:
> >
> > > Water treatments would go a long way, but changing out the anodes would
> make
> > > a difference, too. But that depends on whether you have electric or
> gas.
> > > Gas has black pipe running (a electric path to copper waterpipe), but
> today
> > > it doesn't have to be. Technically you could change out the gas piping
> for
> > > a flexible plastic and end the problem once and for all (like using
> optical
> > > to end ground hums). Personally, I just have my gas water heater hooked
> up
> > > to the water pipe and change the anode connection every couple of years.
> > > The last water heater lasted 18 years. This one's into it's sixth year
> and
> > > clean as a whistle.
> > >
> >
> > What's the anode connection on a gas water heater ?
> >
> > I suspect our UK water heaters are a bit different.
> >
> >
> > Graham
> >

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

George Gleason wrote:

> Pooh Bear wrote:
> >
> > "Roger W. Norman" wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Look on the leading black pipe. Black pipe (galvanized steel with another
> >>component) ultimately works like a di-electric conductor when in contact
> >>with copper, hence a "device" that bleeds electricity off the pipes and to
> >>ground. I have one that preceeds my water heater, which is prior to my
> >>boiler, and it needs either cleaning or changing every few years. And it's
> >>because there's electricity generated by the difference in the metals. It's
> >>not just in this circumstance that one finds a necessity for an anode. Like
> >>I said, it's required on any outboard or inboard/outboard boat motor in salt
> >>water, too.
> >>
> >>Makes one wonder if, since there's enough difference between two pieces of
> >>metal to generate an electrical difference, then perhaps we have a method of
> >>free power right there, although it would be exceedingly small. Maybe with
> >>a million miles of copper and some black pipe here and there we could
> >>generate enough electricity for a house?
> >>
> >
> >
> > Ok - what's 'black pipe' ?
> >
> > Graham
> >
> Black Pipe is used for GAS lines
> George

I suspected it might be that. Is it made of steel ?

Over here ( UK ) the gas pipe to the heater will be copper ( as is the water too
).

The gas entering my home starts off as a steel pipe though - and then is converted
to copper inside the property.

Never seen any examples over here of the 'orange discolouration'.


Graham

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Mike Rivers wrote:
> In article <419944E8.1379C70D@hotmail.com> rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com writes:
>
>
>>What's the anode connection on a gas water heater ?
>
>
> I wondered the same thing too, but I looked in the manual for my gas
> water heater and sure enough, it has one. Obviously not
> active-electrical since there's no electrical connection at all to
> this water heater.

Probably parasitic. Passive anodes are used to collect ions.


Bob
--

"Things should be described as simply as possible, but no
simpler."

A. Einstein

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

>From: Bob Cain

>Probably parasitic. Passive anodes are >used >to collect ions.

Rod material chosen to be sacrificed instead of tank material. Similar to
marine practices.

Reference: http://tinyurl.com/wmgq
--TP