ADA Stereo Delay repair advice needed

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

I have the STD-1 with a problem. When I turn it on the lights come on
and then about 10-15 seconds later the lights fade out. At that point
the input light just flashes about 120 times a minute (yes I counted).

I tried replacing the main two caps right after the powersupply but no
luck.

Any idea on what this could be and if not does anyone know of a place
that would specialize in this kind of thing? I already emailed
Analogman and am awaiting response.

Thanks

Jesse

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

> More likely it's one of the smaller decoupling caps. One of the tantalums
> is failing into a short when it heats up. You can try using freezone on
> them individually and seeing which one cures it. If you are VERY careful
> you can start cold and individually heat the tantalums up with a soldering
> iron until you find the guilty one. Or you can shotgun all of them.


Scott,

I looked up Freezone but didn't find anything, is that the correct
spelling? I assume this is some kind of freon I can spray on the cap
to keep it cool?

As far as taking it to a TV repair place do they need schematics
or anything special like that?

Jesse

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Look at www.newark.com enter freeze in the search box.... to see what
Scott had in mind....

However the first thing you should do is look for the ....warmest
component... other than the pass transistor or regulator in the power
supply..... Although tantalums are one suspect, they are not the only
one..... cmos logic chips are another suspect....

If you have a board layout you can use a milivolt meter to find the
problem.... measure the voltage drop in a couple of inches of circuit board
trace on the power supply distribution lines (an ammeter with the resistance
of the circuit board trace as the shunt).... when you get to the place in
the distribution line with no drop you have passed the shorted point.

Regards:
Eric

"Jesse Skeens" <jskeens@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:6a0c26d8.0411272225.107a29ce@posting.google.com...
> > More likely it's one of the smaller decoupling caps. One of the
tantalums
> > is failing into a short when it heats up. You can try using freezone on
> > them individually and seeing which one cures it. If you are VERY
careful
> > you can start cold and individually heat the tantalums up with a
soldering
> > iron until you find the guilty one. Or you can shotgun all of them.
>
>
> Scott,
>
> I looked up Freezone but didn't find anything, is that the correct
> spelling? I assume this is some kind of freon I can spray on the cap
> to keep it cool?
>
> As far as taking it to a TV repair place do they need schematics
> or anything special like that?
>
> Jesse

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

thepaulthomas@hotmail.com (ThePaulThomas) wrote in message news:<f290bcd4.0411280855.27e9b047@posting.google.com>...
> jskeens@gmail.com (Jesse Skeens) wrote in message news:<6a0c26d8.0411272225.107a29ce@posting.google.com>...
> > I looked up Freezone but didn't find anything, is that the correct
> > spelling? I assume this is some kind of freon I can spray on the cap
> > to keep it cool?
> >
> > As far as taking it to a TV repair place do they need schematics
> > or anything special like that?
> >
> > Jesse
>
> All the documentation and schematics for the STD-1 can be found here:
>
> http://www.adadepot.com/adagear/ge [...] -STD-1.htm
>
> Those are definitely cool sounding units. A lot of fun to play around
> with. And apparently they're somewhat rare because I've seen more than
> one of them sell for over $400 on eBay within the past couple of
> years. Do you have the version with 1/4" inputs/outputs, or is yours
> XLR? I think the XLR ("studio" ) version is the _very_ rare one.


I have the 1/4" version. I think I made the mistake of leaving it on
all the time since there is no off switch on the front.