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Cable for line run

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Anonymous
January 19, 2005 6:30:40 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

I want to make a 30 foot run from my patchbay to my hi-fi receiver,
and back. I have the jacks and want to solder my own cables. Which
Belden, Mogami or Canare cable would you recommend? This is in a home
studio, where stuff occassionally gets moved around, but not a really
abusive environment. It will get run along a floor board.

I need a stereo run in each direction, line level signals. I want to
spend no more than $1 per foot (each single line, $2/ft for a stereo
pair). Belden 8451 perhaps.
Willie K. Yee, M.D. http://users.bestweb.net/~wkyee
Developer of Problem Knowledge Couplers for Psychiatry http://www.pkc.com
Webmaster and Guitarist for the Big Blue Big Band http://www.bigbluebigband.org

More about : cable line run

Anonymous
January 19, 2005 6:30:41 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

> I want to make a 30 foot run from my patchbay to my hi-fi receiver,
> and back. I have the jacks and want to solder my own cables. Which
> Belden, Mogami or Canare cable would you recommend? This is in a home
> studio, where stuff occassionally gets moved around, but not a really
> abusive environment. It will get run along a floor board.
>
> I need a stereo run in each direction, line level signals. I want to
> spend no more than $1 per foot (each single line, $2/ft for a stereo
> pair). Belden 8451 perhaps.

Brand names are a moot point - once you get everything hooked up, both your
stereo and your studio are going to hum like a swarm of bees. Use balanced
cables with isolation transformers on the way out and a Behringer DI20 dual
active DI for the way back, probably cost you $150 by the time it's done.
I'd recommend 4-channel balanced snake cable for tidiness. If you want to
be super-cheap, you could use mic cable to send and receive stereo
unbalanced signals (just buy a 60+ foot mic cable and cut it), but you'll
definitely want a buffer amp (active DI) for the return trip. Thankfully
the DI20 is only $30, no excuse to skimp there.
Anonymous
January 19, 2005 6:30:41 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Which ever one has the lowest capacitance per foot. The hi-fi receiver is
most likely not 600 ohm or lower output impedance like pro audio equipment
so capacitance is more important on long runs like 30 feet, than it would be
with a low impedance source.

Rgds:
Eric


"Willie K.Yee, M.D." <wkyee@bestweb.netttttttttttttttt> wrote in message
news:41edd327.85446713@nntp.bestweb.net...
> I want to make a 30 foot run from my patchbay to my hi-fi receiver,
> and back. I have the jacks and want to solder my own cables. Which
> Belden, Mogami or Canare cable would you recommend? This is in a home
> studio, where stuff occassionally gets moved around, but not a really
> abusive environment. It will get run along a floor board.
>
> I need a stereo run in each direction, line level signals. I want to
> spend no more than $1 per foot (each single line, $2/ft for a stereo
> pair). Belden 8451 perhaps.
> Willie K. Yee, M.D. http://users.bestweb.net/~wkyee
> Developer of Problem Knowledge Couplers for Psychiatry http://www.pkc.com
> Webmaster and Guitarist for the Big Blue Big Band
http://www.bigbluebigband.org
>
Related resources
Anonymous
January 19, 2005 6:33:02 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Willie K.Yee, M.D." <wkyee@bestweb.netttttttttttttttt> wrote in message
news:41edd327.85446713@nntp.bestweb.net...
> I want to make a 30 foot run from my patchbay to my hi-fi receiver,
> and back. I have the jacks and want to solder my own cables. Which
> Belden, Mogami or Canare cable would you recommend? This is in a home
> studio, where stuff occassionally gets moved around, but not a really
> abusive environment. It will get run along a floor board.
>
> I need a stereo run in each direction, line level signals. I want to
> spend no more than $1 per foot (each single line, $2/ft for a stereo
> pair). Belden 8451 perhaps.
> Willie K. Yee, M.D. http://users.bestweb.net/~wkyee
> Developer of Problem Knowledge Couplers for Psychiatry http://www.pkc.com
> Webmaster and Guitarist for the Big Blue Big Band
http://www.bigbluebigband.org
>

consider http://www.gepco.com/products/cablenew/analog_audio/sin...

the EZ strip cable is instillation friendly

the dual pair ( D61801EZGF) is only avalible in blue as far as i know.

i usully get 500 ft rolls. retail should be about 25 cents/ft
Anonymous
January 19, 2005 12:18:47 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Willie K.Yee, M.D. <wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet> wrote:
>I want to make a 30 foot run from my patchbay to my hi-fi receiver,
>and back. I have the jacks and want to solder my own cables. Which
>Belden, Mogami or Canare cable would you recommend? This is in a home
>studio, where stuff occassionally gets moved around, but not a really
>abusive environment. It will get run along a floor board.

If you are running an unbalanced connection here, I suggest using the
Gepco siamese cable that is intended for S-Video. It's got two foamcore
75 ohm coaxes joined together, but it's just fine for audio and has very
low capacitance. Two conductors for eighteen cents a foot for the pair.

>I need a stereo run in each direction, line level signals. I want to
>spend no more than $1 per foot (each single line, $2/ft for a stereo
>pair). Belden 8451 perhaps.

If you really want a stereo run in each direction, consider some of the
4-coax video snake bundles. They aren't too expensive and you'll have only
one cable to contend with. The coax stuff is usually cheaper than a
4-pair snake cable and since you're running unbalanced anyway it's not
a big deal.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Anonymous
January 19, 2005 2:25:36 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 02:09:08 -0500, "Sugarite" <nobody@home.com>
wrote:

>Brand names are a moot point - once you get everything hooked up, both your
>stereo and your studio are going to hum like a swarm of bees.

Well, it doesn't hum now, except with one or two pieces of equipment
which can be managed (Morley Volume Pedal soon to go on eBay). I just
want to replace the el cheapo grey molded Radio Shack stuff that I am
using now.

>Use balanced
>cables with isolation transformers on the way out and a Behringer DI20 dual
>active DI for the way back, probably cost you $150 by the time it's done.
>I'd recommend 4-channel balanced snake cable for tidiness. If you want to
>be super-cheap, you could use mic cable to send and receive stereo
>unbalanced signals (just buy a 60+ foot mic cable and cut it), but you'll
>definitely want a buffer amp (active DI) for the return trip. Thankfully
>the DI20 is only $30, no excuse to skimp there.


Willie K. Yee, M.D. http://users.bestweb.net/~wkyee
Developer of Problem Knowledge Couplers for Psychiatry http://www.pkc.com
Webmaster and Guitarist for the Big Blue Big Band http://www.bigbluebigband.org
Anonymous
January 19, 2005 3:09:04 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <41edd327.85446713@nntp.bestweb.net> wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet writes:

> I want to make a 30 foot run from my patchbay to my hi-fi receiver,
> and back. I have the jacks and want to solder my own cables. Which
> Belden, Mogami or Canare cable would you recommend? This is in a home
> studio, where stuff occassionally gets moved around, but not a really
> abusive environment. It will get run along a floor board.

I agree with Sugarite that the brand doesn't matter enough to worry
about, but I don't agree with is promise that your system will hum. It
might, it might not, and the only way to tell for sure is to try it. I
gather you have some sort of lashup now that doesn't hum, so replacing
the cable with a new one shouldn't be a problem.

I'd recommend that you use two-conductor shielded cable for a couple
of reasons. First, it gives you the option to experiment with lifting
the shield at one end or the other, which may make it hum less (or
more). Second, if you should decide to go the balanced route with
transformers or some other interface, you'll already have the cable
you need.

You'll need to find a distributor to sell you 30 feet (or less than
500 feet or a minimum dollar order). Maybe somebody here with an
uncommitted partial roll can fill your requirements.



--
I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo
Anonymous
January 19, 2005 9:15:52 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Sugarite" <nobody@home.com> wrote in message
news:aGnHd.275$xV2.110109@read2.cgocable.net...
>Use balanced
> cables with isolation transformers on the way out and a Behringer DI20
dual
> active DI for the way back, probably cost you $150 by the time it's done.

> Thankfully
> the DI20 is only $30, no excuse to skimp there.

The DI20 *IS* skimping. Have you ever measured one? I have!
(BTW I think a lot of Behringer gear is great, the DI20 is not on that list
though)

MrT.
Anonymous
January 19, 2005 9:15:53 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

> > Thankfully
> > the DI20 is only $30, no excuse to skimp there.
>
> The DI20 *IS* skimping. Have you ever measured one? I have!
> (BTW I think a lot of Behringer gear is great, the DI20 is not on that
list
> though)

Without a buffer amp the signal is a raw split off the hi-fi receiver's
preamp. If you think it's worth spending more than $30 just to get hum-free
tunes from your stereo to your console room, I'd be curious as to what
alternative you propose. Passive DI's?

Turns out there isn't a hum problem, so it's a moot point.
Anonymous
January 21, 2005 7:57:18 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 11:25:36 GMT, wkyee@bestweb.netttttttttttttttt
(Willie K.Yee, M.D.) wrote:

>
>Well, it doesn't hum now, except with one or two pieces of equipment
>which can be managed (Morley Volume Pedal soon to go on eBay). I just
>want to replace the el cheapo grey molded Radio Shack stuff that I am
>using now.

Why? Which part of the job isn't it doing?

CubaseFAQ www.laurencepayne.co.uk/CubaseFAQ.htm
"Possibly the world's least impressive web site": George Perfect
Anonymous
January 22, 2005 3:28:16 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Willie K.Yee, M.D." <wkyee@bestweb.netttttttttttttttt> wrote in
message news:41edd327.85446713@nntp.bestweb.net...
> I want to make a 30 foot run from my patchbay to my hi-fi receiver,
> and back. I have the jacks and want to solder my own cables.

I think am going to use some Mogami StarQuad cable to run the stereo
lines. I will be soldering my own cables.

How does one connect this four conductor + shield cable in this
situation? Two blue wires to pins, two white to common, shield to
common on one or both ends? Or do I run a stereo pair through one
cable?
Willie K. Yee, M.D. http://users.bestweb.net/~wkyee
Developer of Problem Knowledge Couplers for Psychiatry http://www.pkc.com
Webmaster and Guitarist for the Big Blue Big Band http://www.bigbluebigband.org
Anonymous
January 22, 2005 3:43:24 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 16:57:18 +0000, Laurence Payne
<l@laurenceDELETEpayne.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:

>>Well, it doesn't hum now, except with one or two pieces of equipment
>>which can be managed (Morley Volume Pedal soon to go on eBay). I just
>>want to replace the el cheapo grey molded Radio Shack stuff that I am
>>using now.
>
>Why? Which part of the job isn't it doing?

Well, right now it works.

BUT each run consists of two RCA connected cables run into adapters at
the receiver end, the cables are at least ten years old, and it all
looks kludgy as hell. Given that it is cheap$#!+ cable, I assume that
slightly better cable may improve the sound, even though it sounds OK
now (but I have nothing to compare it with and have been living with
it for a long time).

AND I am rearranging a lot of stuff in the studio, so I might as well
take care of this now, instead of waiting for something to break.

Willie K. Yee, M.D. http://users.bestweb.net/~wkyee
Developer of Problem Knowledge Couplers for Psychiatry http://www.pkc.com
Webmaster and Guitarist for the Big Blue Big Band http://www.bigbluebigband.org
Anonymous
January 22, 2005 5:48:55 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Willie K.Yee, M.D. wrote:

> I think am going to use some Mogami StarQuad cable to run the stereo
> lines. I will be soldering my own cables.

> How does one connect this four conductor + shield cable in this
> situation? Two blue wires to pins, two white to common, shield to
> common on one or both ends?

That last aone, with the shield connected at the proximal end and open
at the distal end - "Telescoping shields".

> Or do I run a stereo pair through one cable?

Not unless you can't afford two runs of cable.

--
ha
Anonymous
January 22, 2005 3:15:53 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <41f19dd5.77170910@nntp.bestweb.net> wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet writes:

> I think am going to use some Mogami StarQuad cable to run the stereo
> lines. I will be soldering my own cables.
>
> How does one connect this four conductor + shield cable in this
> situation? Two blue wires to pins, two white to common, shield to
> common on one or both ends? Or do I run a stereo pair through one
> cable?

Don't run the stereo pair through the two pairs of conductors of the
cable. Also, there's no point in using star quad cable for unbalanced
connections, and the disadvantage to it is that it has higher
capacitance than standard two-conductor shielded cable, which may be a
problem with an older system that has a higher output impedance than
most devices today.

You don't have a huge problem. Just use what you can get in the length
that you need, from a reputable source.



--
I'm really Mike Rivers - (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo
Anonymous
January 22, 2005 4:34:24 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 02:48:55 GMT, walkinay@thegrid.net (hank alrich)
wrote:

>Willie K.Yee, M.D. wrote:
>
>> I think am going to use some Mogami StarQuad cable to run the stereo
>> lines. I will be soldering my own cables.
>
>> How does one connect this four conductor + shield cable in this
>> situation? Two blue wires to pins, two white to common,
>> shield to common on one end?
>

So the rest of it is correct -- a pair for one signal and a pair for
the common ?

>That last aone, with the shield connected at the proximal end and open
>at the distal end - "Telescoping shields".
>
>> Or do I run a stereo pair through one cable?
>
>Not unless you can't afford two runs of cable.
>
>--
>ha

Willie K. Yee, M.D. http://users.bestweb.net/~wkyee
Developer of Problem Knowledge Couplers for Psychiatry http://www.pkc.com
Webmaster and Guitarist for the Big Blue Big Band http://www.bigbluebigband.org
Anonymous
January 22, 2005 8:23:14 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Willie K.Yee, M.D. wrote:

> (hank alrich) wrote:

> >Willie K.Yee, M.D. wrote:

> >> I think am going to use some Mogami StarQuad cable to run the stereo
> >> lines. I will be soldering my own cables.

> >> How does one connect this four conductor + shield cable in this
> >> situation? Two blue wires to pins, two white to common,
> >> shield to common on one end?

> So the rest of it is correct -- a pair for one signal and a pair for
> the common ?

Yes, that will work fine, but I'd wonder if star-quad type cable is
worth it for an unbalanced run. OTOH if you have the cable around it's
easier to use it than bother to get somethig else.

--
ha
Anonymous
January 22, 2005 10:06:48 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

After re-reading all that has been posted on this subject I will not
be using StarQuad, but Mogami W2549. The run is closer to 20 feet than
30. Hum is more of a problem in this room than RF, but this particular
circuit has not had a problem. Yet. After I re-wire everything and
install the new stuff it may be a different story. Murphy's law says
it WILL be different in a problematic way, but I'll deal with that
when I get to it.

Meantime, I have learned how/why StarQuad works. No inquiry is futile
if one perpetually seeks knowledge yada yada yada

On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 17:23:14 GMT, walkinay@thegrid.net (hank alrich)
wrote:

>Willie K.Yee, M.D. wrote:
>
>> (hank alrich) wrote:
>
>> >Willie K.Yee, M.D. wrote:
>
>> >> I think am going to use some Mogami StarQuad cable to run the stereo
>> >> lines. I will be soldering my own cables.
>
>> >> How does one connect this four conductor + shield cable in this
>> >> situation? Two blue wires to pins, two white to common,
>> >> shield to common on one end?
>
>> So the rest of it is correct -- a pair for one signal and a pair for
>> the common ?
>
>Yes, that will work fine, but I'd wonder if star-quad type cable is
>worth it for an unbalanced run. OTOH if you have the cable around it's
>easier to use it than bother to get somethig else.
>
>--
>ha

Willie K. Yee, M.D. http://users.bestweb.net/~wkyee
Developer of Problem Knowledge Couplers for Psychiatry http://www.pkc.com
Webmaster and Guitarist for the Big Blue Big Band http://www.bigbluebigband.org
!