CANT LOG INTO ROUTER SETUP

You seem to have multiple issues so tackle them one at a time.

First with the router connections -- connect with a cable and if you cannot log in, reset the unit to factory default with the reset button, then just look online of in your manual for the default gateway IP, user ID and password. Then reconfigure the settings as you want. You should use different non-overlapping channels for the main router and AP, the same SSID and security passphrase and the devices will select the stronger signal (at least they should).

If you have an unidentified network problem with Windows 7, if your version is Pro/Ultimate/Enterprise you can use the policy editor to fix it quickly like THIS.

I knew I had said more than I needed to. The bottom-line issue is, not able to repeat what I've done before. Logging into either router, all that is needed is the username and password (blank or otherwise). I just cant reach the router's login page (window?), something that I've done dozens of times for the Belkin, and several times recently with the D-Link. The "unidentified network" thing doesn't have me concerned really, since the router in question had been in various phases, or degrees of configurations. (again TMI to explain).
I know how to do the reset , so if we start there , with a clean slate. Ethernet cable from a LAN jack to my laptop. D-Link's factory-set IP = 192.168.0.1. Using " http://" (or not, doesn't seem to matter) ahead of the numbers.... and IF I can only get to the Login page; "Admin", and "Blank" for login data.
What's got me confused in your response RealBeast, is the thing about the default Gateway?? I came across something similar only once, in reading dozens of articles and posts on this. I don't even need any Gateway information, if I cant get into the router's settings... do I? Username and Password to log in, and only then can I tweak the settings to my needs. I would be setting the gateway and DNS server to match the primary router's LAN IP, isnt that correct? (Belkin def; 192.168.2.1)
Are you suggesting, as I think this other source was, that my Laptop's Gateway data needs changing before attempting the router setup? Then restored as it was, after finishing the process? If so, I'd like to know why, and why I've not needed to do this in the past? If I'm completely off course on that issue, please explain in more detail, the Gateway point mentioned. Thank you!

The default gateway is the address you type in to get to the primary router, in your case 192.168.0.1. From your second post, I think I see the issue.

If you connect two routers LAN to LAN for an AP, the second router should have a static address in the range of the first router, in you case like 192.168.0.2, and then allow the main router DHCP to have an address range from .0.3 and up unless you have other static devices. (you can also set it in the second router as static and in the primary as reserved dynamic if needed, works the same).

If you use a separate subnet (192.168.2.1) for the second router, then you must make an LAN to WAN connection. You will get nothing with an LAN to LAN on a different subnet, unless you alter the subnet mask (although that is not desirable).

I'm going to try and "Reset" the facts in this post;
Primary router = Belkin / LAN IP = 192.168.2.1 / DHCP, range .2 to .100
Subnet = 255.255.255.0
2nd router/AP = D-Link; Def. IP = 192.168.0.1 , but I set it to "192.168.2.101" based on the majority of "how to" text I found on this setup. That is "a Static IP address that is OUTSIDE of the DHCP range of the primary router". There's always the conflicting view,.. always! the keyword....saying the 2nd router's Static IP should be with-IN the DHCP range. Most often, "they" will suggest that in my case, the Belkin would be x.x.2.1 , so the 2nd router could be x.x.2.2 <<**.
**>> In ANY case, 2nd router DHCP is DIS-abled!
> The SSID, and passkey duplicates that of the primary router.
> A LAN-TO-LAN connection is done between routers.

It is these settings that I first used, and had success with. The ONLY thing I tried to go back and change was the Channel for the 2nd router, hoping this would solve the glitch with our laptops primarily, sometimes slow to connect. The non-PC devices would display 2 Belkin networks with slightly different signal strengths, allowing me to choose the stronger! At this point I dont even remember how it all got screwed up ??
.......... So, other than Static IP question - INside/ OUTside? of the primary router's DHCP range...... I had a working configuration. IF I could only find my way back to it, which is to my original post... Cant Log Onto the 2nd Router. The D-Link. It is ReSet to factory defaults; IP= 192.168.0.1. >> I connect to my laptop via Ethernet cable, from one of the LAN ports. I type the D-Link's default IP into browser. Nothing !! Why speak of subnets and gateways, until I'm able to plug in "admin" and "___"(username) and finally LOG IN to the D-Link ; THEN make the appropriate changes??

Ok, this post makes you issues clear. I understand your frustration with this, but compare this post to your first post and you will see that this one actually tells your story.

Your initial setup was all correct, the static address of the AP was in the network range but OUTside of the DHCP assignment range, which is correct. And the static address of 192.168.2.101 is entered in both the AP for its address and the Belkin's static table. The problem of getting into the AP using its address 192.168.2.10 *should* not be an issue with a wired connection, but it sometimes is and you end up having to reset to default and set it all over again with the changes. Unfortunately, routers do not always reset as easily as they should.

I would reset the DLink again, but this time give it more time between steps and add a few additional steps in the reset:

Disable computer wireless, you will use a wired connection only.
Power down the DLink and computer.
Unplug the DLink from the wall.
Disconnect all cables from the DLink.
Plug in and power up the DLink and give it several minutes to fully boot.
Press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds, then release it, then let the DLink reset and reboot, again give it several minutes to fully boot.
Power down the DLink.
Connect one computer by an Ethernet cable to DLink LAN port 1.
Power up the DLink and allow it several minutes to fully boot.
Power up the computer.

That *should* reset the DLink. Then you can set everything, giving it the IP address as the last step.

Before starting, you should probably refine your wireless channel choice using the free INSSIDER wireless analyzer, since the process is so painful to make changes.

Good news. The D-Link is back online. Status reported on laptop network connection- signal "excellent"! Can ya tell? (ha) Before going on, and in case there's anyone out there following this, besides you and me, Realbeast.... I have another post "reset" to do. You said, "The problem of getting into the AP using its address 192.168.2.10 *should* not be an issue with a wired connection,..." I know you meant "192.168.2.101", and it's a very easy error/omission to make.

I repeated all I had done before, taking extra care and time per your suggestions. I wound up just the same as my previous several failed attempts. Not able to reach the login page of the D-Link, by typing it's default IP into a browser- 192.168.0.1. Same "connection time-out" error. I again went to "Network and Sharing Center" to check into the Properties of whatever LAN device was displayed. I'd choose the "DETAILS" button, and be thinking that the IP shown there, was that of the D-Link, the 2nd router/AP device. The reason for my mixups;

1) I knew! my laptop was always the standard- 192.168.2.xxx, the last group being a Static number I had chosen, or something typically between 2 and 14, determined by my primary router, the Belkin. But following each setup attempt (D-Link) this IP was something out of left field! One ex. that seemed to repeat, was "169.254.78.55". Where'd that come from?? Then during my last go at this, it changed again without even doing a RESET!, to "192.168.0.199".
2) My misinterpretation of the IP displayed, ... then led me to believe that the D-Link had not done a proper Reset. However, that last group finally rang a bell, turned on the lightbulb over my head. The 192.168.0.___ < hey, that's the D-Link's default, and the end group- "199" could be a minor glitch, or as if the D-Link had assigned that value to my laptop?

I'm a little fuzzy about this, but think it's very likely that I then went into Properties/ then ...(TCP/IPv4)/ Properties again, and found some familiar numbers as the IP for my laptop; yep, the "192.168.0.199"!! Possible scenario since I'd yet been able to get inside the D-Link to DISable DHCP! Regardless, while there I decided to set IP and DNS, both to AUTOmatic. Finally, I was able
to type the D-Link's default IP into a browser, and actually arrive at the Login page for the router!

Could this mean that going back to my initial failed attempt, it all would have worked had I set my laptop's Network/Adapter properties on AUTO, at least until after getting the D-Link set up as desired? Gotta learn the hard way sometimes. And while in there, more questions arose at each turn. For instance;

1) Enable DNS Relay ? ............. I left it ENABLED! (sounded good, relay to/from the Belkin primary router?)
2) UPnP ? ............................. I DISabled it. (seemed to be no point for it, as the D-Link will simply act as an Access Point) 3) Channel Width; 20mhz, or 20/40-Auto? ( I think I chose the Auto setting )
4) Cipher Type; TKIP & AES, OR AES-only? (I recalled seeing AES often, so chose that. Turned out likewise for the Belkin)
5) Lastly, set on "802.11b , g, n.... or ALL?" (after some looking into it, knowing I didnt have FAST "n", I chose "g" only. Also
had read that using one type could improve overall WiFi efficiency )

If it's not yet clear, I've got things back to working order! If there's anyone still awake after all this, and not cross-eyed with confusion ... here's a nifty trick I used. Having 2 routers with the same SSID, etc.etc., my PC's and devices had to be "coached" or nudged into selecting the closer router, along with the better signal strength. After a reboot, one might fall back to the original router, and weaker signal. IF THE PC or device displays the "twin" networks, but with different signal strengths, it's easy to assume the correct one to choose, and hopefully establish as "preferred".
So, to avoid any mix-up when viewing two seemingly identical networks .... ; I left the original Belkin SSID as it had always
been - "belkin.3d47". But, for the D-Link by the same SSID (stronger signal) .. I capitalized every other letter in the name. (quirky, I know) That's " BeLkIn.3d47". I hoped the SSID wasn't case sensitive! ODDly, when rebooting the D-Link and viewing it
in any network details/ properties........ only the 1st letter, "B" was capitalized!? No matter, that works!, since the original and
actual Belkin's SSID was still shown in all small case letters. Now I quickly and easily know which network to assign as 1st choice (or ONLY choice), on any PC or device. AND, often a device wont display BOTH twin networks! Solution, dont "OK" the network a device likes, if it's the less favored.( the small "b" belkin, in my case) Instead, choose NO / Other?, or LIST ALL NETWORKS.
These steps always resulted in both Belkin networks listed, allowing for me to make the choice for the device!(or PC) Note that this "gimmick" only applies if the 2nd router is an Access Point only- DHCP DISabled! If you're going the other route, using that 2nd router to create a 2nd network, then it's already going to differ in name. No confusions. (is it just me? ha.)
Thanks RealBeast.

(finally found my way back to this, having tried the email link sent to me, only to get the "404" Page error)
As my last post says, I had success all around, again. It's that IP issue that had me stumped and thinking all efforts had failed. Think about it.... the 2nd router (access point confiq) is connected only to the PC used in the setup process, which is dis-connected from your WiFi. So, I guess I shouldn't have expected all the IP's etc. to appear as before, until all connections are restored and the 2nd router is linked (via Ethernet cable) to the primary router. (Reboots on all devices is probably adviseable) Those new questions I posed, were simply to note concerns I had while going thru the setup steps. I noted my choices for each, and was curious if I got them right, or if any one of them made no difference in achieving the goal?