Clevo D27ES overheat

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Jassper23

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Feb 22, 2006
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Hello.. any one can help me with my Clevo D27ES it's overheating I have already check all the fan and they are all working...also tried sending mail to clevo support but they don't know how to reply to my mail :(...also do you know any place I can download update for bios for my laptop? thanks
 

deneban

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I just solved my year long overheating problem with my Clevo D90T (aka Hypersonic EX7), so I registered just to respond to this.

After waiting for the put to cool, you should remove your heat sink (or that see http://www.timerider.co.uk/laptopcpu.htm for your model) and do 2 things:

a) Get all the dust out of the fan intake grills and the fins of the heat sink.

b) Apply silver conductive grease between the CPU and the heat sink contact surface - enough to just cover most of the top of the CPU. Then replace the sink to the CPU, checking that you have "squished" enough grease on the top of the CPU, but not so much that it goes over the sides. You can probaly get the silver conductive grease at a chain computer store or mouser.com.

Item a) reduces your normal operating fan speed and normal CPU temperature maybe about 5 degrees, depending how clogged you have it. But it does little to help "thermal events" as Microsoft calls them (like video capture).

Item b) is where most of the cooling improvement will come from. My D90T exceeded 79 C on a regular basis with video capture, 3D and DVD burn. It turned itself down for safety from 3.6 GHz to 2.5 GHz (which is like 2 jerky frames per second).

After these 2 little fixes, I cant get it above 72C throwing everything at it and the P4 never has to turn itself down.

Hope that helps,
Russ
 

mamehakase

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Although the advice by the "stranger" was good, depending on the "flavor" of D27ES you have, you might be able to go 1 step further. There is a voltage control DIP switch located close to an inch from the bottom left corner of the CPU chip underneath the CPU cooler assembly. Also note that before you unscrew and remove the CPU cooler assembly, there is a DIP switch setting guide label located about an inch below the right CPU cooler fan, that illustrates 3 settings: Mobile 1.35V, Desktop 1.5V, and Desktop 1.525V. There is a very good chance your laptop was set to 1.5V at the factory. If that's the case, I would recommend you step it down to the Mobile 1.35V. This may or may not work, as 2 out of the roughly a dozen D27ES units we have had not responded well to this change. The minority units did not start up. In that case, all we did was set those two back to the original setting of 1.5V. For those two, the cleaning and reapplication of the thermal paste was sufficient. For the majority that accepted the step down voltage, the improvement in stability was very significant and we have some very happy users.
 

Jassper23

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Thank you very much... I been looking for that jumper and on the board that is just showing jumper 6.... and now my problem have been resolve I set it to 1.5 volts... the old settings is set to 1.5.xx 8O
 

RedSnow

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Change or by silicone fix FANS, remove dust from grid, use conductive paste around pasive part of cooler, check holes between coller and warming parts and use cooper plates or hammer ;-)


 
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