Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question

Good _Switched_ Power Cord?

Last response: in Home Audio
Share
June 27, 2005 10:35:31 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Anybody make a high-gage high-quality switched power cord, suitable for
a power amp?

I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature, which doesn't
have an ON/OFF switch, or the 'Power Sense' circuit they putting in
current models. If it's plugged-in, it's on, plan and simple. If I
put my ears right up to the tweeters, I can hear the noise floor.

I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.

I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
with a switch.

Recommendations?

Thanks,

A_C
Anonymous
June 27, 2005 11:06:43 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Agent_C wrote:
> Anybody make a high-gage high-quality switched power cord, suitable for
> a power amp?
>
> I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature, which doesn't
> have an ON/OFF switch, or the 'Power Sense' circuit they putting in
> current models. If it's plugged-in, it's on, plan and simple. If I
> put my ears right up to the tweeters, I can hear the noise floor.
>
> I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.
>
> I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
> not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
> with a switch.
>
> Recommendations?
>


Middle Atlantic makes one called the RPS15. I think they're $60 or $70
retail.
Anonymous
June 27, 2005 2:21:35 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Agent_C <Agent-C-hates-spam@nyc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.
>
>I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
>not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
>with a switch.
>
>Recommendations?

Drill a hole in the side of the Power Wedge. Install a nice big
SPST switch on the incoming power lead.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Related resources
Anonymous
June 27, 2005 3:51:32 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

1. Not that I know of.

2. Hearing the noise floor with your ear to the tweeter is normal.

3. No significant current is going to your speakers unless the amp
fails.

4. Aren't there any switched outlets on your PowerWedge?

5. Don't get a cheap power strip; get a hefty one.

Kal


On 27 Jun 2005 06:35:31 -0700, "Agent_C"
<Agent-C-hates-spam@nyc.rr.com> wrote:

>Anybody make a high-gage high-quality switched power cord, suitable for
>a power amp?
>
>I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature, which doesn't
>have an ON/OFF switch, or the 'Power Sense' circuit they putting in
>current models. If it's plugged-in, it's on, plan and simple. If I
>put my ears right up to the tweeters, I can hear the noise floor.
>
>I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.
>
>I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
>not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
>with a switch.
>
>Recommendations?
>
>Thanks,
>
>A_C
Anonymous
June 27, 2005 4:15:10 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Agent_C wrote:

> Anybody make a high-gage high-quality switched power cord,
suitable
> for a power amp?

Lots of people. There's no magic in power cords, just
overblow prices for the emperor's new power cord.

> I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature, which
doesn't
> have an ON/OFF switch, or the 'Power Sense' circuit they
putting in
> current models. If it's plugged-in, it's on, plan and
simple. If I
> put my ears right up to the tweeters, I can hear the noise
floor.

So your query is based on a desire to save power?

> I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not
in use.

Thaof course, this is a power amp and they all make a little
residual noise.

> I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner
and I'm
> not going to introduce a cheap power strip.

I was just reading up about this product and found this
review:

http://www.audiophilia.com/hardware/powerwedge.htm

"Listening to Aaron Copland's An Outdoor Overture (Reference
Recordings), I immediately noticed that the high massed
strings sounded a bit muted and macro dynamics suffered in
relation to the unconditioned amplifier. The
usually-powerful timpani whacks and brass blasts on this
recording lost some of their impact. I listened further to
see if these impressions were consistent across recordings
and indeed they were. The usual impact and gut-wrenching
intensity of Shostakovich's Symphony No. 8 (Teldec) was
missing in action. This was definitely not the eighth
symphony that I knew and loved."
I'm trying to figure out whether this is the usual
sighted-listening test heavy breathing so common in the high
end press, or a report of an actual audible fault due the
use of a line conditioner that ran out of power, and
actually caused the power amp to distort at a lower level.

Long story short, is this power conditioner creating trouble
where there was none, or is it being falsly indicted by
someone who is prejudiced against it?

> I just need a decent cord with a switch.

Check out your hardware store.

> Recommendations?

Home Depot, Lowes, Ace...
Anonymous
June 27, 2005 6:53:49 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

"Scott Dorsey" wrote ...
> Agent_C wrote:
>>
>>I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.
>>
>>I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
>>not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
>>with a switch.
>>
>>Recommendations?
>
> Drill a hole in the side of the Power Wedge. Install a nice big
> SPST switch on the incoming power lead.

But how long must he burn-in the switch before it will pass
power of sufficient quality for his power amp? And where
can he find a genuine golden-ears, tweako power switch?
Can't use just any old ordinary power switch.
Anonymous
June 27, 2005 9:00:14 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

On 27 Jun 2005 06:35:31 -0700, "Agent_C"
<Agent-C-hates-spam@nyc.rr.com> wrote:

>I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
>not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
>with a switch.

Why not? A power strip isn't going to negate any cleaning-up done by
the conditioner.
Anonymous
June 27, 2005 10:17:38 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Agent_C wrote:

> Anybody make a high-gage high-quality switched power cord, suitable for
> a power amp?
>
> I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature, which doesn't
> have an ON/OFF switch, or the 'Power Sense' circuit they putting in
> current models. If it's plugged-in, it's on, plan and simple. If I
> put my ears right up to the tweeters, I can hear the noise floor.
>
> I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.

I'd be more concerned about the amplifier being continually on. It sure
won't bother the speakers. Some components in the amp do have lifetime
issues long term ( primarily PSU caps ). And this is an *old* amplifier
already.


> I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
> not going to introduce a cheap power strip.

Why ? What's a plain vanilla power strip going to upset ? If the power's
already filtered, just add the strip after the conditioner. You don't have
to 'double condition' it you know.

> I just need a decent cord with a switch.

I've never seen such a thing.

Graham
Anonymous
June 27, 2005 10:17:39 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Pooh Bear wrote:


>>I just need a decent cord with a switch.
>
>
> I've never seen such a thing.

Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.
Anonymous
June 27, 2005 10:19:06 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <3iarahFkfn55U2@individual.net> crabcakes@emagic.net writes:

> Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
> onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.

Maybe, maybe not. If this is a fairly high power amplifier, it might
have a larger power cord than what will fit (both the case and the
contacts) an in-line switch. I have a couple of them on lamps around
here that work fine on #18 zip cord, but they wouldn't fit on even a
common 13 amp IEC power cord.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo
Anonymous
June 27, 2005 10:19:07 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Mike Rivers wrote:

>>Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
>>onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.
>
>
> Maybe, maybe not. If this is a fairly high power amplifier, it might
> have a larger power cord than what will fit (both the case and the
> contacts) an in-line switch. I have a couple of them on lamps around
> here that work fine on #18 zip cord, but they wouldn't fit on even a
> common 13 amp IEC power cord.

Ok, but you get the point. This is a low tech problem and the solution
should be very cheap.
June 27, 2005 11:47:51 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

On 27 Jun 2005 07:06:43 -0700, "Buster Mudd" <mr_furious@mail.com>
wrote:


>Middle Atlantic makes one called the RPS15. I think they're $60 or $70
>retail.

Thanks, this is exactly what I need.

.... and at $92.00 a screaming bargain!

A_C
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 2:21:36 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

"Pooh Bear" wrote ...
> Wouldn't a switched outlet strip be far simpler ?

The OP rejected that option as it would "contaminate" the pure
power coming out of his golden-ears power filter.
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 2:26:46 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Joe Sensor wrote:

> Pooh Bear wrote:
>
> >>I just need a decent cord with a switch.
> >
> > I've never seen such a thing.
>
> Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
> onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.

Not in the UK you can't ! Can't imagine who'd need one - except for stuff
without a power switch which is kind of unknown here.

Oh - hang on - you mean you wire it inline *yourself* ? I hope it carries
the ground through. We used to have what were called torpedo switches you
could wire into fig-8 cable ( the stuff you call zip cord ? ) but I think
they were withdrawn for safety reasons decades back.

In the OP's case I'd suggest he follow your advice though. Unless they
don't have grounds.

Graham
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 2:26:47 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Pooh Bear wrote:

> In the OP's case I'd suggest he follow your advice though. Unless they
> don't have grounds.

I actually went to buy one for my daughters lamp, but I was looking for
one wired on a cord, they used to have em' at the five and dime. So then
I was all set to buy one of the torpedo switches and make my own, but
ended up spending 20 bucks for a remote control switch. It is a regular
(wall type) light switch in a box that you can mount anywhere. Uses a 9
volt battery. Then a receiver that plugs in the wall socket and you just
plug into that. I think it is 600 watts maximum but that should be
plenty. Like I said, only cost 20 bucks. Of course, it was made in China. :( 
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 2:26:48 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

In article <3ibb84Fkd059U1@individual.net> crabcakes@emagic.net writes:

> I was all set to buy one of the torpedo switches and make my own, but
> ended up spending 20 bucks for a remote control switch. It is a regular
> (wall type) light switch in a box that you can mount anywhere. Uses a 9
> volt battery. Then a receiver that plugs in the wall socket and you just
> plug into that. I think it is 600 watts maximum but that should be
> plenty. Like I said, only cost 20 bucks.

I don't even have any lamps that I paid $20 for. I'm sure not going to
pay $20 for a switch.

--
I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 2:26:49 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

"Mike Rivers" wrote ...
> I don't even have any lamps that I paid $20 for. I'm sure not going to
> pay $20 for a switch.

You and me both. But we are old fogies who don't appreciate
"modern technology". :-)
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 2:46:39 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On 27 Jun 2005 18:19:06 -0400, mrivers@d-and-d.com (Mike Rivers)
wrote:

>
>In article <3iarahFkfn55U2@individual.net> crabcakes@emagic.net writes:
>
>> Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
>> onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.
>
>Maybe, maybe not. If this is a fairly high power amplifier, it might
>have a larger power cord than what will fit (both the case and the
>contacts) an in-line switch. I have a couple of them on lamps around
>here that work fine on #18 zip cord, but they wouldn't fit on even a
>common 13 amp IEC power cord.
That is *good*, because all the switches I found in hardware stores
recently, were rated 6 amps @ 125V and I know there are a lot of "It
fits, it must be OK" types out there. :^)

BTW
Grainger lists cat 2X547 for SJT cords (.25) with a 10A rating @ 125V
http://www.grainger.com
, _
, | \ MKA: Steve Urbach
, | )erek No JUNK in my email please
, ____|_/ragonsclaw dragonsclawJUNK@JUNKmindspring.com
, / / / Running United Devices "Cure For Cancer" Project 24/7 Have you helped? http://www.grid.org
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 5:02:29 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Richard Crowley wrote:

> "Scott Dorsey" wrote ...
> > Agent_C wrote:
> >>
> >>I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.
> >>
> >>I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
> >>not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
> >>with a switch.
> >>
> >>Recommendations?
> >
> > Drill a hole in the side of the Power Wedge. Install a nice big
> > SPST switch on the incoming power lead.
>
> But how long must he burn-in the switch before it will pass
> power of sufficient quality for his power amp? And where
> can he find a genuine golden-ears, tweako power switch?
> Can't use just any old ordinary power switch.

Nooo ? I was about to say like the one in the wall socket - but not sure if
you guys have switched outlets over there.

Graham
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 5:06:17 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On Mon, 27 Jun 2005 22:26:46 +0100, Pooh Bear
<rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

>> Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
>> onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.
>
>Not in the UK you can't ! Can't imagine who'd need one - except for stuff
>without a power switch which is kind of unknown here.
>
>Oh - hang on - you mean you wire it inline *yourself* ? I hope it carries
>the ground through. We used to have what were called torpedo switches you
>could wire into fig-8 cable ( the stuff you call zip cord ? ) but I think
>they were withdrawn for safety reasons decades back.

It's still the Wild West here in the Colonies. These switches bite
into the cord, one wire only, and are perfectly appropriate for
lamps and such. Unless you really love the folks living there,
but still...

For working (meaning not domestic) situations, blue boxes and
ordinary wall light switches are amazingly affordable and rugged
and UL and safe.

I once had a VW Type 3 with light switches for ignition and starter,
mounted together in a two-gang. Nobody ever stole it. 'Course, if
you'd seen it, you'd understand why.

Chris Hornbeck
"I can build you a test that will show either one. Which
would you prefer me to demonstrate?"
--scott
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 6:41:46 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

On Mon, 27 Jun 2005 19:47:51 -0400, Agent_C wrote:


>>Middle Atlantic makes one called the RPS15. I think they're $60 or $70
>>retail.
>
> Thanks, this is exactly what I need.
>
> ... and at $92.00 a screaming bargain!

A fool & his money?

What the hell, want to buy a slightly used waterbed? Cheap?
June 28, 2005 10:57:07 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:41:46 GMT, Agent 86 <maxwellsmart@control.gov>
wrote:

>A fool & his money?
>
>What the hell, want to buy a slightly used waterbed? Cheap?

Neither you or Wood apparently have any sense of humor at all...

A_C
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 11:02:30 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <3ibdbsFkfpr9U1@individual.net> crabcakes@emagic.net writes:

> Ok, but you get the point. This is a low tech problem and the solution
> should be very cheap.

Kind of makes you wonder why the manufacturer didn't put a power
switch on it in the first place. Surely it wasn't to save a couple of
dollars.



--
I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo
June 28, 2005 11:20:08 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Joe Sensor wrote:
>
> Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
> onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.

Ever engage your brain before opening your mouth?

I'm not going to power a 1200 watt / 10 amp / $3000 audio component off
of zip cord and a contact switch.

A_C
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 2:15:58 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Agent_C wrote:

> Joe Sensor wrote:
>
>>Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
>>onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.
>
>
> Ever engage your brain before opening your mouth?


http://www.brokeninside.com/omfg/stfu/pics/76.jpg

> I'm not going to power a 1200 watt / 10 amp / $3000 audio component off
> of zip cord and a contact switch.

Yeah, ok, whatever.
June 28, 2005 2:46:22 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Joe Sensor wrote:

> What exactly is wrong with a "cheap power strip"?

I just want a passive switch; nothing more. I'm uncertain how the fuse
and surge protection circuitry in a 'cheap power strip', or even an
expensive one, would interact with the PowerWedge.

A_C
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 3:15:29 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Agent_C wrote:

> Ever engage your brain before opening your mouth?


Oh, you are the op.

Who said:

> I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
> not going to introduce a cheap power strip.

What exactly is wrong with a "cheap power strip"?
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 4:44:47 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

"Agent_C" <Agent-C-hates-spam@nyc.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1119879331.396285.286640@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> Anybody make a high-gage high-quality switched power cord, suitable for
> a power amp?
>
> I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature, which doesn't
> have an ON/OFF switch, or the 'Power Sense' circuit they putting in
> current models. If it's plugged-in, it's on, plan and simple. If I
> put my ears right up to the tweeters, I can hear the noise floor.
>
> I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.

The current going to your speakers (ie hiss) when there is no music is
totally insignificant. If, for some reason, this matters to you, get a
line-cord switch and stick it in your power cable.

Also there should be no problem with an inexpensive switch distrib board, as
long as it's not total junk. Power-conditioner or whatever.

geoff
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 4:46:33 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

"Agent_C" <Agent-C-hates-spam@nyc.rr.com> wrote in message
news:iu31c19i2robdk9t84a31tst3aam7gdqkq@4ax.com...
> On 27 Jun 2005 07:06:43 -0700, "Buster Mudd" <mr_furious@mail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>>Middle Atlantic makes one called the RPS15. I think they're $60 or $70
>>retail.
>
> Thanks, this is exactly what I need.
>
> ... and at $92.00 a screaming bargain!


Should cost $5, $10 max. But at that price it couldn't possibly 'sound
good', eh ...

geoff
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 4:47:33 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

"Richard Crowley" <rcrowley7@xprt.net> wrote in message

>>
>> Drill a hole in the side of the Power Wedge. Install a nice big SPST
>> switch on the incoming power lead.
>
> But how long must he burn-in the switch before it will pass
> power of sufficient quality for his power amp? And where
> can he find a genuine golden-ears, tweako power switch?
> Can't use just any old ordinary power switch.

And where to get a switch with the correct direactionality markings...

geoff
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 6:25:45 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

On 28 Jun 2005 07:20:08 -0700, "Agent_C"
<Agent-C-hates-spam@nyc.rr.com> wrote:

>Joe Sensor wrote:
>>
>> Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
>> onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.
>
>Ever engage your brain before opening your mouth?
>
>I'm not going to power a 1200 watt / 10 amp / $3000 audio component off
>of zip cord and a contact switch.
>
>A_C

Why not?

d

Pearce Consulting
http://www.pearce.uk.com
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 6:25:46 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Don Pearce wrote:
> On 28 Jun 2005 07:20:08 -0700, "Agent_C"
> <Agent-C-hates-spam@nyc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Joe Sensor wrote:
>>>
>>> Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline
switch that
>>> tacs onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.
>>
>> Ever engage your brain before opening your mouth?
>>
>> I'm not going to power a 1200 watt / 10 amp / $3000 audio
component
>> off of zip cord and a contact switch.
>>
>> A_C
>
> Why not?

Good question. 12 gauge zip cord is still zip cord, while
your typical in-line AC power switch is rated at 15 amps.

Myself, I'd use 14 gauge SOJ and just run the green wire
straight past the switch contact.

http://doityourself.com/store/u244392.htm
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 6:50:51 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

On 28 Jun 2005 10:46:22 -0700, "Agent_C"
<Agent-C-hates-spam@nyc.rr.com> wrote:

>Joe Sensor wrote:
>
>> What exactly is wrong with a "cheap power strip"?
>
>I just want a passive switch; nothing more. I'm uncertain how the fuse
>and surge protection circuitry in a 'cheap power strip', or even an
>expensive one, would interact with the PowerWedge.

Get a power strip without fuse or surge protection circuitry.

Kal
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 7:29:16 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Agent_C wrote:
> Joe Sensor wrote:
>
>> What exactly is wrong with a "cheap power strip"?
>
> I just want a passive switch; nothing more. I'm uncertain
how the fuse
> and surge protection circuitry in a 'cheap power strip',
or even an
> expensive one, would interact with the PowerWedge.

There's usually no fuse, but there usually is a circuit
breaker. It won't cause problems. It's bascially as passive
as the switch.

Just say no to power strips with surge protection built in.
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 8:41:39 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Richard Crowley wrote:

> "Pooh Bear" wrote ...
> > Wouldn't a switched outlet strip be far simpler ?
>
> The OP rejected that option as it would "contaminate" the pure
> power coming out of his golden-ears power filter.

Yabbbut !

The suggested remote control switch doesn't use golden ears cable ( or
switch even ) so it can't be any good ! Tssk..... and the on-off knob
isn't made of sound-deadening material either !

Graham
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 8:50:20 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Mike Rivers wrote:

> In article <3ibdbsFkfpr9U1@individual.net> crabcakes@emagic.net writes:
>
> > Ok, but you get the point. This is a low tech problem and the solution
> > should be very cheap.
>
> Kind of makes you wonder why the manufacturer didn't put a power
> switch on it in the first place. Surely it wasn't to save a couple of
> dollars.

I expect it may have been to make it look 'professional' or just plain style
driven ?

They could still have fitted a switch on the back panel though.

Graham
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 8:50:21 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Pooh Bear wrote:

>
> Mike Rivers wrote:
>
>
>>In article <3ibdbsFkfpr9U1@individual.net> crabcakes@emagic.net writes:
>>
>>
>>>Ok, but you get the point. This is a low tech problem and the solution
>>>should be very cheap.
>>
>>Kind of makes you wonder why the manufacturer didn't put a power
>>switch on it in the first place. Surely it wasn't to save a couple of
>>dollars.
>
>
> I expect it may have been to make it look 'professional' or just plain style
> driven ?
>
> They could still have fitted a switch on the back panel though.

Probably part of a component set where the amp is turned on and off by
the preamp/contoller unit. But you are right, they still should have had
a switch on the amp. If the original poster is handy with a soldering
iron and a drill, the best solution would be to mount a (20 amp?) toggle
switch. Would cost a couple of bucks.
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 9:34:25 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,rec.audio.marketplace (More info?)

Joe Sensor wrote:

> Pooh Bear wrote:
>
> > Mike Rivers wrote:
> >
> >
> >>In article <3ibdbsFkfpr9U1@individual.net> crabcakes@emagic.net writes:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Ok, but you get the point. This is a low tech problem and the solution
> >>>should be very cheap.
> >>
> >>Kind of makes you wonder why the manufacturer didn't put a power
> >>switch on it in the first place. Surely it wasn't to save a couple of
> >>dollars.
> >
> >
> > I expect it may have been to make it look 'professional' or just plain style
> > driven ?
> >
> > They could still have fitted a switch on the back panel though.
>
> Probably part of a component set where the amp is turned on and off by
> the preamp/contoller unit. But you are right, they still should have had
> a switch on the amp. If the original poster is handy with a soldering
> iron and a drill, the best solution would be to mount a (20 amp?) toggle
> switch. Would cost a couple of bucks.

I *so* agree.

Only trouble is - the switch may only cost a couple of bucks but how much will it
cost to get it blessed with audiophool oil ?

Graham


rec.audio.marketplace added back.

I wonder who might have found it inconvenient for pro sound engineers to criticise
'snake oil' hi-fi products in case that our common sense view might diminish their
potential market ?
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 9:40:44 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Joe Sensor" <crabcakes@emagic.net> wrote in message
news:3ida5hFl496fU1@individual.net...

> > I expect it may have been to make it look 'professional' or just plain
style
> > driven ?
> >
> > They could still have fitted a switch on the back panel though.
>
> Probably part of a component set where the amp is turned on and off by
> the preamp/contoller unit. But you are right, they still should have had
> a switch on the amp. If the original poster is handy with a soldering
> iron and a drill, the best solution would be to mount a (20 amp?) toggle
> switch. Would cost a couple of bucks.

It would, however, void the warranty.

Peace,
Paul
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 9:40:45 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Paul Stamler wrote:


> It would, however, void the warranty.


The original post said:

> I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature,

Warranty is not a factor.
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 9:40:59 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Chris Hornbeck" <chrishornbeckremovethis@att.net> wrote in message

> It's still the Wild West here in the Colonies. These switches bite
> into the cord, one wire only, and are perfectly appropriate for
> lamps and such. Unless you really love the folks living there,
> but still...
>

In this colony you can get inline switches that happily switch the phase
wire, and leave room for neutral and ground to pass through uninterupted.

I use one made up like this for servicing, as my isolating transformer
output isn't switched.

geoff

PS, yes I know I don't need the ground wire as it's isolated in this
scenario, but the lead would otherwise be illegal...
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 9:41:00 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Geoff Wood wrote:

> "Chris Hornbeck" <chrishornbeckremovethis@att.net> wrote in message
>
> > It's still the Wild West here in the Colonies. These switches bite
> > into the cord, one wire only, and are perfectly appropriate for
> > lamps and such. Unless you really love the folks living there,
> > but still...
> >
>
> In this colony you can get inline switches that happily switch the phase
> wire, and leave room for neutral and ground to pass through uninterupted.
>
> I use one made up like this for servicing, as my isolating transformer
> output isn't switched.
>
> geoff
>
> PS, yes I know I don't need the ground wire as it's isolated in this
> scenario, but the lead would otherwise be illegal...

Hmmm......

In Europe it's considered normal for a switch to interrupt *both* the phase
and neutral !

I do this in my designs without even giving it a 2nd thought !

I'm beginning to see why UL is so fixated about fire hazard

I guess you guys burn down the house as a result of a simple electrical fault
on a regular basis ?

Graham
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 9:41:01 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <42C0E74C.5839E47A@hotmail.com> rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com writes:

> I'm beginning to see why UL is so fixated about fire hazard
>
> I guess you guys burn down the house as a result of a simple electrical fault
> on a regular basis ?

It happens more often than it should.

--
I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 9:41:01 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Pooh Bear <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>In Europe it's considered normal for a switch to interrupt *both* the phase
>and neutral !
>
>I do this in my designs without even giving it a 2nd thought !

In the US, we don't have to do this because all of our cords are polarized.
Admittedly there are miswiring incidents sometimes.

The European way also requires fusing both power leads. This has some
disadvantages (especially with failures that blow the fuse on the cold
lead).

>I'm beginning to see why UL is so fixated about fire hazard

It's better than you might think, due to the lower line voltage. On the
other hand, we have more problems due to bad connections heating up, due
to the higher current required as a result.

>I guess you guys burn down the house as a result of a simple electrical fault
>on a regular basis ?

Anybody who lives in a country where appliances come without plugs and
people just shove the bare wires into the sockets and hold them in with
matchsticks rather than spend a few pounds on a plug has NO cause to talk.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 9:41:02 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Mike Rivers" <mrivers@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
news:znr1119957326k@trad...
>
> In article <42C0E74C.5839E47A@hotmail.com>
> rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com writes:
>
>> I'm beginning to see why UL is so fixated about fire hazard
>>
>> I guess you guys burn down the house as a result of a simple
>> electrical fault
>> on a regular basis ?
>
> It happens more often than it should.

When I went to Spain for a week, I unplugged all my
power strips from the wall outlets just to be sure that
all the little cheap wall warts, etc. were inert in my
absence.
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 9:41:03 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Richard Crowley wrote:

> "Mike Rivers" <mrivers@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
> news:znr1119957326k@trad...
> >
> > In article <42C0E74C.5839E47A@hotmail.com>
> > rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com writes:
> >
> >> I'm beginning to see why UL is so fixated about fire hazard
> >>
> >> I guess you guys burn down the house as a result of a simple
> >> electrical fault
> >> on a regular basis ?
> >
> > It happens more often than it should.
>
> When I went to Spain for a week, I unplugged all my
> power strips from the wall outlets just to be sure that
> all the little cheap wall warts, etc. were inert in my
> absence.

Tssk.... You're being a little xenophobic there ! ;-)

Graham


p.s. I have to tell the story about the 'OEM' wallwart some time. It
needs a pic so I'll post it in abse
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 11:00:01 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <d9ruht$gu3$1@panix2.panix.com> kludge@panix.com writes:

> In the US, we don't have to do this because all of our cords are polarized.

Well, all except for those that I've filed down the wide blade of a
two-prong plug so I can fit it into some of the old non-polarized
2-blade outlets in the house.

> Anybody who lives in a country where appliances come without plugs and
> people just shove the bare wires into the sockets and hold them in with
> matchsticks rather than spend a few pounds on a plug has NO cause to talk.

It wasn't that bad when I lived in Japan in 1970, but the gas stove
and kitchen water heater were connected with thin robber hose to what
looked like the Bunsen burner gas tap on the chem lab benches in high
school.

--
I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo
Anonymous
June 28, 2005 11:00:02 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <wYfwe.367257$cg1.346338@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> pstamlerhell@pobox.com writes:

> > the best solution would be to mount a (20 amp?) toggle
> > switch. Would cost a couple of bucks.

> It would, however, void the warranty.

Better to say that it would give the manufacturer a reason not to
honor the warranty if he wanted to. If something failed because a
metal chip that you didn't clean up caused a short circuit, they might
blame that on your modification, but if the amplifier failed from
natural causes or a defective component, they'd probably take care of
you even if you added a power switch.

Besides, wasn't this an old amplifier, probably no longer under
warranty?


--
I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo
Anonymous
June 29, 2005 12:39:11 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Paul Stamler wrote:

> "Joe Sensor" <crabcakes@emagic.net> wrote in message
> news:3ida5hFl496fU1@individual.net...
>
> > > I expect it may have been to make it look 'professional' or just plain
> style
> > > driven ?
> > >
> > > They could still have fitted a switch on the back panel though.
> >
> > Probably part of a component set where the amp is turned on and off by
> > the preamp/contoller unit. But you are right, they still should have had
> > a switch on the amp. If the original poster is handy with a soldering
> > iron and a drill, the best solution would be to mount a (20 amp?) toggle
> > switch. Would cost a couple of bucks.
>
> It would, however, void the warranty.
>
> Peace,
> Paul

Pfffttt ! trust you to spot that one !

Graham
Anonymous
June 29, 2005 3:02:10 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 06:59:40 +0100, Pooh Bear
<rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:


>Hmmm......
>
>In Europe it's considered normal for a switch to interrupt *both* the phase
>and neutral !
I North America the Neutral is always grounded, so breaking both leads
is not needed. OTOH you do break both leads on 240V equipment.


>I do this in my designs without even giving it a 2nd thought !
>
>I'm beginning to see why UL is so fixated about fire hazard
>
>I guess you guys burn down the house as a result of a simple electrical fault
>on a regular basis ?
>
>Graham
>

, _
, | \ MKA: Steve Urbach
, | )erek No JUNK in my email please
, ____|_/ragonsclaw dragonsclawJUNK@JUNKmindspring.com
, / / / Running United Devices "Cure For Cancer" Project 24/7 Have you helped? http://www.grid.org
!