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Woofer mounting question

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Anonymous
July 1, 2005 7:58:58 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

This probably belongs in rec-audio-speaker-constructor-geek but it's a
change of pace here so...

I'm substituting a pair of ALTEC 421A woofs into
a pair of KLIPSCH kp301 systems
The kp301 is pretty much a Klipsch CORNWALL with road handles
(a Cornwall is a 3-way system built in an
aprox 14"x18"x30" I.D. ported box with a 15")

My question is as follows.
The woofers mount from the front of the cabinet.
The front baffles are routed to recess the woofer.
The 421's fit dandy. Drop in nicely, rim is a VERY clean close fit in the
routed section, Holes line up etc...
But: the 421 is made to mount onto the BACK of a baffle board.
My concern is that while the KLIPSCH woofer has a simple flat-back outer
flange rim, and the 421 has the -same size rim- ...
there are 16 little skinny diagonal reenforcement ribs spaced around the
backside of the 421 rim.
I'm worried about warping the woofer when I tighten the 8 mounting bolts
through the rim holes.

I can-
just drop the thing into place, tighten carefully and hope the ribs will
dig a bit into the edge of the speaker mounting hole and work well enough
(which is how I'll initially test the thing).
Or
I can get a 15" gasket, cut it into sections to fit between the ribs, and
thus minimise the ribs-into-hole-edge thing, not worrying that the speaker
will stand out from the hole a bit
Or
I can get silicone caulking and make a gasket on the speaker back edge, let
it cure and firm up, but I worry again that I won;t have it truly FLAT for
tightening down without warping things...

Thoughts?

John V
July 1, 2005 7:58:59 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

http://tinyurl.com/9dczw

Pick up a couple of these...

Double up if necessary...

Should be no problem, tighten slowly in a crossways pattern till snug.

Robin Farrell
JuliRob Productions
Anonymous
July 1, 2005 10:49:22 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"SSJVCmag" <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com> wrote in message
news:BEEA37C2.B486%ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com...

> I can-
> just drop the thing into place, tighten carefully and hope the ribs will
> dig a bit into the edge of the speaker mounting hole and work well enough
> (which is how I'll initially test the thing).
> Or
> I can get a 15" gasket, cut it into sections to fit between the ribs, and
> thus minimise the ribs-into-hole-edge thing, not worrying that the speaker
> will stand out from the hole a bit
> Or
> I can get silicone caulking and make a gasket on the speaker back edge,
let
> it cure and firm up, but I worry again that I won;t have it truly FLAT for
> tightening down without warping things...

I would pick up some 3M Strip-Calk, sticky rope caulk that doesn't dry out
much. Make a ring of that around the rim of the hole, being careful not to
stretch it, because you want a bunch of it there. Then lower the woofer into
place carefully (that damn caulk likes to jump off the rim and grab it) and
press it gently into place with both hands. Now insert screws and tighten
slowly, going around the circle (1-3-5-7-2-4-6-8) and not tightening any of
them all the way down until you have them all in and moderately close. Keep
on doing the rotation until they're all tight, then get a razor blade to
trim off the caulk that's oozing out from under the edge of the rim. You can
also use Mortite, especially in the summer, but Strip-Calk is gooier and
dries out less. Oh, cats love to play with bits of Mortite.

Peace,
Paul
Related resources
Anonymous
July 1, 2005 5:10:57 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On 7/1/05 1:51 AM, in article efGdnSSYNdpmRFnfRVn-jQ@comcast.com, "Robin"
<julirobin@comcast.net> wrote:

Paul and Robin thanks, reenforcing EACH of my initial ideas make me think I
have less to worry about than I think I do.
July 1, 2005 5:10:58 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

Woofer sealing should not be a big deal, one of the methods here should work
fine. You bigger problem is going to be re-tuning the cabinet to match the
woofer. Do you have the TS parameters for the Altec driver? What volume
enclosure and port dimensions does it need? If the specs are close to the
Klipsch driver then a simple port modification may be all you need. If the
drivers are not close then you may have poor performance at best, or worse
an unloaded driver at lower frequencies which won't last long.


"SSJVCmag" <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com> wrote in message
news:BEEAB920.B4BA%ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com...
> On 7/1/05 1:51 AM, in article efGdnSSYNdpmRFnfRVn-jQ@comcast.com, "Robin"
> <julirobin@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Paul and Robin thanks, reenforcing EACH of my initial ideas make me think
I
> have less to worry about than I think I do.
>
>
Anonymous
July 1, 2005 5:10:59 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <yqydnRlEspa181jfRVn-2w@rogers.com>, Paul <conan@rogers.com> wrote:
>Woofer sealing should not be a big deal, one of the methods here should work
>fine. You bigger problem is going to be re-tuning the cabinet to match the
>woofer. Do you have the TS parameters for the Altec driver? What volume
>enclosure and port dimensions does it need? If the specs are close to the
>Klipsch driver then a simple port modification may be all you need. If the
>drivers are not close then you may have poor performance at best, or worse
>an unloaded driver at lower frequencies which won't last long.

The problem is that the T-S parameters for drivers intended for bass horns
are not really all that useful.... it doesn't help to think of them like
you do a normal modern sealed cabinet.

With all of these drivers, the cabinet isn't providing much support
for the driver, so the Vas really isn't critical. And the lower corner
of the system is probably set by the size of the horn rather than the
driver Fs.

I think God that Thiele and Small came along and that we don't have to
deal with this stuff any more....

I do have measured T-S parameters for the 515 and the smaller Altec
drivers around here somewhere, but they aren't really very useful.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Anonymous
July 1, 2005 6:17:12 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On 7/1/05 2:49 AM, in article
SH5xe.1058939$w62.571397@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net, "Paul Stamler"
<pstamlerhell@pobox.com> wrote:

> "SSJVCmag" <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com> wrote in message
> news:BEEA37C2.B486%ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com...
>
>> I can-
>> just drop the thing into place, tighten carefully and hope the ribs will
>> dig a bit into the edge of the speaker mounting hole and work well enough
>> (which is how I'll initially test the thing).
>> Or
>> I can get a 15" gasket, cut it into sections to fit between the ribs, and
>> thus minimise the ribs-into-hole-edge thing, not worrying that the speaker
>> will stand out from the hole a bit
>> Or
>> I can get silicone caulking and make a gasket on the speaker back edge,
> let
>> it cure and firm up, but I worry again that I won;t have it truly FLAT for
>> tightening down without warping things...
>
> I would pick up some 3M Strip-Calk, sticky rope caulk that doesn't dry out
> much. Make a ring of that around the rim of the hole, being careful not to
> stretch it, because you want a bunch of it there. Then lower the woofer into
> place carefully (that damn caulk likes to jump off the rim and grab it) and
> press it gently into place with both hands. Now insert screws and tighten
> slowly, going around the circle (1-3-5-7-2-4-6-8) and not tightening any of
> them all the way down until you have them all in and moderately close. Keep
> on doing the rotation until they're all tight, then get a razor blade to
> trim off the caulk that's oozing out from under the edge of the rim. You can
> also use Mortite, especially in the summer, but Strip-Calk is gooier and
> dries out less. Oh, cats love to play with bits of Mortite.
>
> Peace,
> Paul

If this is gooey and doesn;t dry out much, is it more a flexible SEALER than
a solid pliable CUSHION/SUPPORT material? If it's more the former, maybe the
actual speaker-gasket direction is better as this thing needs SUPPORT,
Anonymous
July 1, 2005 6:17:13 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

SSJVCmag <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com> wrote:
>If this is gooey and doesn;t dry out much, is it more a flexible SEALER than
>a solid pliable CUSHION/SUPPORT material? If it's more the former, maybe the
>actual speaker-gasket direction is better as this thing needs SUPPORT,

How about cutting a ring out of 1/4" plywood with a jigsaw?
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Anonymous
July 1, 2005 7:07:16 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On 7/1/05 10:34 AM, in article da3k90$2p2$1@panix2.panix.com, "Scott Dorsey"
<kludge@panix.com> wrote:

> SSJVCmag <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com> wrote:
>> If this is gooey and doesn;t dry out much, is it more a flexible SEALER than
>> a solid pliable CUSHION/SUPPORT material? If it's more the former, maybe the
>> actual speaker-gasket direction is better as this thing needs SUPPORT,
>
> How about cutting a ring out of 1/4" plywood with a jigsaw?

Ummm how's that solve the protruding-rib thing? Am I missing something?
Anonymous
July 1, 2005 8:18:53 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"SSJVCmag" <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com> wrote in message
news:BEEAC8A6.B56A%ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com...

> > I would pick up some 3M Strip-Calk, sticky rope caulk that doesn't dry
out
> > much. Make a ring of that around the rim of the hole, being careful not
to
> > stretch it, because you want a bunch of it there. Then lower the woofer
into
> > place carefully (that damn caulk likes to jump off the rim and grab it)
and
> > press it gently into place with both hands. Now insert screws and
tighten
> > slowly, going around the circle (1-3-5-7-2-4-6-8) and not tightening any
of
> > them all the way down until you have them all in and moderately close.
Keep
> > on doing the rotation until they're all tight, then get a razor blade to
> > trim off the caulk that's oozing out from under the edge of the rim. You
can
> > also use Mortite, especially in the summer, but Strip-Calk is gooier and
> > dries out less. Oh, cats love to play with bits of Mortite.

> If this is gooey and doesn;t dry out much, is it more a flexible SEALER
than
> a solid pliable CUSHION/SUPPORT material? If it's more the former, maybe
the
> actual speaker-gasket direction is better as this thing needs SUPPORT,

Yes, it's a sealer, but it's a bit of a support too. The ribs themselves
will dig into the wood once you get the thing tightened down; the caulk will
help equalize the pressure during the tightening-down process, making
warping much less likely, and also seal the space between the ribs. The main
thing is to use enough of it to provide a real cushion, which is why it's
important not to let it stretch out as you remove it from the package.

Peace,
Paul
Anonymous
July 1, 2005 9:31:30 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On 7/1/05 12:35 PM, in article yqydnRlEspa181jfRVn-2w@rogers.com, "Paul"
<conan@rogers.com> wrote:

> Woofer sealing should not be a big deal, one of the methods here should work
> fine. You bigger problem is going to be re-tuning the cabinet to match the
> woofer. Do you have the TS parameters for the Altec driver?

I do, but whether these 30-yr-old drivers still MATCH those specs is
questionable.


> What volume
> enclosure and port dimensions does it need? If the specs are close to the
> Klipsch driver then a simple port modification may be all you need. If the
> drivers are not close then you may have poor performance at best,

To be dead-honest, this is an emergency-fix. One cabinet took a nearly
1-foot drop-to-concrete with the result of apparently shifting the magnet
structure enough to trap the voice coil. Locked. Dead.
The 421's have been waiting for a project and burning a hole in my pocket so
to speak for way too long and, both being fairly stiff woofers (no science
here, just seat=o=pants) and me wanting to just play, I'm going for it
initially just to see how fair a match it is at all. I don;t expect disaster
(one never knows tho) and figure it can;t hurt too badly.
Logically, later with time and $ I should just replace the original Klipsch
woofer with the Klipsch part, though if indeed the 421's are happy and it's
worth it, why NOT retune the cab, but not in the next 2 weeks and I need
these things working then. After that it's a GREAT project.


> or worse
> an unloaded driver at lower frequencies which won't last long.

THIS I hadn;t considered... Doesn;t seem likely as the box is not THAT big.
But I -am- just guessing.
Anonymous
July 1, 2005 9:33:47 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On 7/1/05 1:07 PM, in article da3t81$gl5$1@panix2.panix.com, "Scott Dorsey"
<kludge@panix.com> wrote:

> In article <yqydnRlEspa181jfRVn-2w@rogers.com>, Paul <conan@rogers.com> wrote:
>> Woofer sealing should not be a big deal, one of the methods here should work
>> fine. You bigger problem is going to be re-tuning the cabinet to match the
>> woofer. Do you have the TS parameters for the Altec driver? What volume
>> enclosure and port dimensions does it need? If the specs are close to the
>> Klipsch driver then a simple port modification may be all you need. If the
>> drivers are not close then you may have poor performance at best, or worse
>> an unloaded driver at lower frequencies which won't last long.
>
> The problem is that the T-S parameters for drivers intended for bass horns
> are not really all that useful.... it doesn't help to think of them like
> you do a normal modern sealed cabinet.

The 421 was Altec's higer-powered musical instrument line form 1970 or so
and was used in all sorts of cabinets, including their predecesor to the old
Peavey SP2 (511B type horn in a ported 15" box)

>
> With all of these drivers, the cabinet isn't providing much support
> for the driver, so the Vas really isn't critical. And the lower corner
> of the system is probably set by the size of the horn rather than the
> driver Fs.
>
> I think God that Thiele and Small came along and that we don't have to
> deal with this stuff any more....
>
> I do have measured T-S parameters for the 515 and the smaller Altec
> drivers around here somewhere, but they aren't really very useful.

Wasn;t the 515 a SERIOUSLY nice lo-freq hifi driver?
Anonymous
July 1, 2005 9:36:09 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On 7/1/05 12:18 PM, in article
N1exe.1061317$w62.305382@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net, "Paul Stamler"
<pstamlerhell@pobox.com> wrote:

>>, is it more a flexible SEALER than
>> a solid pliable CUSHION/SUPPORT material? If it's more the former, maybe
> the
>> actual speaker-gasket direction is better as this thing needs SUPPORT,
>
> Yes, it's a sealer, but it's a bit of a support too. The ribs themselves
> will dig into the wood once you get the thing tightened down; the caulk will
> help equalize the pressure during the tightening-down process, making
> warping much less likely, and also seal the space between the ribs.

My concern was that while the FLAT of the rim shol dbe good for a mounting
reference, the little diagonal RIBS wouldn;t have been built with worry
towards such consistancy and precision, them being on the intended UNUSED
side, and if they were what butted up to the cabinet hole, they would force
a non-flat fit...


> The main
> thing is to use enough of it to provide a real cushion, which is why it's
> important not to let it stretch out as you remove it from the package.
Anonymous
July 1, 2005 10:04:07 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <BEEAF74A.B5A0%ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com> ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com writes:

> My concern was that while the FLAT of the rim shol dbe good for a mounting
> reference, the little diagonal RIBS wouldn;t have been built with worry
> towards such consistancy and precision, them being on the intended UNUSED
> side, and if they were what butted up to the cabinet hole, they would force
> a non-flat fit...

You could just file them flat. The frame is probably cast aluminum, so
it should take just a few strokes with the Armstrong milling machine.

--
I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo
Anonymous
July 2, 2005 2:37:58 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On 2005-07-01, SSJVCmag <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com> wrote:

> My concern was that while the FLAT of the rim shol dbe good for a
> mounting reference, the little diagonal RIBS wouldn;t have been built
> with worry towards such consistancy and precision, them being on the
> intended UNUSED side, and if they were what butted up to the cabinet
> hole, they would force a non-flat fit...

Have you considered using a file to make dents in the cabinet
where each rib goes ? Or, if you don't want to alter the
cabinet, in the plywood ring Scott suggested ?

--
André Majorel <URL:http://www.teaser.fr/~amajorel/&gt;
(Counterfeit: nemyter@concern.com irubak@despotic.com)
"J'baiserai la France jusqu'à ce qu'elle m'aime." -- Un rappeur
Anonymous
July 2, 2005 2:59:30 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On 7/1/05 6:37 PM, in article slrndcbhe6.vgf.cheney@atc5.vermine.org, "Andre
Majorel" <cheney@halliburton.com> wrote:

> On 2005-07-01, SSJVCmag <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com> wrote:
>
>> My concern was that while the FLAT of the rim shol dbe good for a
>> mounting reference, the little diagonal RIBS wouldn;t have been built
>> with worry towards such consistancy and precision, them being on the
>> intended UNUSED side, and if they were what butted up to the cabinet
>> hole, they would force a non-flat fit...
>
> Have you considered using a file to make dents in the cabinet
> where each rib goes ?

This was another thought. Though a saw would be the tool, these are like
3/32" thick.

>Or, if you don't want to alter the
> cabinet, in the plywood ring Scott suggested ?

I'm thinking the easiest is going to be get a 15" speaker gasket and cut it
in segments to fit between the ribs. Maybe fill what gaps might be around
each rib with silicone caukling.
Thing is, the wooder as is sets so nicely RIGHT down in the recess and is
flush with the baffleboard top...
Anonymous
July 2, 2005 3:24:26 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On Fri, 01 Jul 2005 03:58:58 GMT, SSJVCmag <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com>
wrote:

>I'm substituting a pair of ALTEC 421A woofs into
>a pair of KLIPSCH kp301 systems
>The kp301 is pretty much a Klipsch CORNWALL with road handles
>(a Cornwall is a 3-way system built in an
> aprox 14"x18"x30" I.D. ported box with a 15")

Paul designed the Cornwalls well before modern (T-S)
modelling, using a cut/ try/ measure approach. Decades
later, with their own anechoic chamber, he and Dick
Moore confirmed that the old design was pretty durned
close to a QB3 alinment. Anyway...

The KP301's use a K-48-K woofer, which has a plasticized
cone and a slightly larger magnet to make up for extra
weight of cone and voice coil. It's probably significantly
more rugged than the Cornwall's original K-33-E, an
Eminence built driver also used in K-Horns and LaScala's.

But if you want a couple K-33-E's, I've got a bunch. Be
glad to send you a pair to get them out of my way. Email me.

Good fortune,

ps: if these were mine, I'd fill the box with pillow stuffing.
Yeah, I know, but there it is.

Chris Hornbeck
"while I'm waiting here for sleep to overtake me"
-Elliott Smith
Anonymous
July 2, 2005 6:20:50 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On 7/1/05 7:24 PM, in article mhjbc116jrbi07anjdt9ano8rgmat643n0@4ax.com,
"Chris Hornbeck" <chrishornbeckremovethis@att.net> wrote:

> On Fri, 01 Jul 2005 03:58:58 GMT, SSJVCmag <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I'm substituting a pair of ALTEC 421A woofs into
>> a pair of KLIPSCH kp301 systems
>> The kp301 is pretty much a Klipsch CORNWALL with road handles
>> (a Cornwall is a 3-way system built in an
>> aprox 14"x18"x30" I.D. ported box with a 15")
>
> Paul designed the Cornwalls well before modern (T-S)
> modelling, using a cut/ try/ measure approach. Decades
> later, with their own anechoic chamber, he and Dick
> Moore confirmed that the old design was pretty durned
> close to a QB3 alinment. Anyway...

I have one 421 in (replaced the bad Kwoofer) and it sound s 'similar' if not
exactly the same. Certainly good enough for the next couple weeks.
What was dissapointing in putting both of these on the bench for the first
time in years and years (these two having been sitting for months waiting
for service) is that one of the Tweets is bad (very lo output).
A replacement diaphragm seems in order.. Unless... Could the same thing have
happened to the tweet that happened to the woof? Physical shock messed up
the VC gap allignment?
What options are there for these? If I'm going to play then maybe tweeter
change mod? Going to a trachorn would require a whole new baffleboard and
cutouts...
These things really don't have bass extension do they?
Is there any way to trim the sqwauk and tweet levels?

>
> The KP301's use a K-48-K woofer, which has a plasticized
> cone and a slightly larger magnet to make up for extra
> weight of cone and voice coil. It's probably significantly
> more rugged than the Cornwall's original K-33-E, an
> Eminence built driver also used in K-Horns and LaScala's.
>
> But if you want a couple K-33-E's, I've got a bunch. Be
> glad to send you a pair to get them out of my way. Email me.
>
> Good fortune,
>
> ps: if these were mine, I'd fill the box with pillow stuffing.
> Yeah, I know, but there it is.

You mean damp them? Or turn em into doghouses?
Klipsch didn;t run to fibreglas linings did they?
Anonymous
July 2, 2005 7:02:12 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 02:20:50 GMT, SSJVCmag <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com>
wrote:

> one of the Tweets is bad (very lo output).
>A replacement diaphragm seems in order.. Unless... Could the same thing have
>happened to the tweet that happened to the woof? Physical shock messed up
>the VC gap allignment?
>What options are there for these?

The K-79-K tweeter has a surprisingly affordable replacement
diaphragm. Three nuts on the "front" side of the thing (pull
the whole tweeter for convenience) releases the horn from the
magnet. The (cooked?) diaphragm is stuck to the magnet.

Be dead sure that you've observed where the voice coil wire
from the "inside"/ "back" is rotated. There's a gap cut
into the magnet just for it. Replacement diaphragms come with
an instruction sheet, but call me if it's not obvious. I'm
in the Little Rock phone book and my day job is 5012279077.

>These things really don't have bass extension do they?
>Is there any way to trim the sqwauk and tweet levels?

Not at the speaker end, except unusably crudely, by the
3dB steps in autotransformer taps. Modern stuff like yours
might not even have that. Sorry, not really.

>> ps: if these were mine, I'd fill the box with pillow stuffing.
>> Yeah, I know, but there it is.
>
>You mean damp them? Or turn em into doghouses?
>Klipsch didn;t run to fibreglas linings did they?

Ported boxes are designed based on a high Q resonance within
the box. This is just a personal opinion, and others may,
and will, disagree, but this is just Whack. JMOPO.

Old pillows are cheap and the test is reversible.

Wierd extra Klipsch note: the Heresy model with closed box
also has no stuffing, and is hugely improved by adding some.
JMOHO. We can *all* believe in our models too deeply.

Good fortune, and let me know if I can help in any way,

Chris Hornbeck
Anonymous
July 2, 2005 10:59:33 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Scott Dorsey" <kludge@panix.com> wrote in message
news:D a3t81$gl5$1@panix2.panix.com...
> In article <yqydnRlEspa181jfRVn-2w@rogers.com>, Paul <conan@rogers.com>
wrote:
> >Woofer sealing should not be a big deal, one of the methods here should
work
> >fine. You bigger problem is going to be re-tuning the cabinet to match
the
> >woofer. Do you have the TS parameters for the Altec driver? What volume
> >enclosure and port dimensions does it need? If the specs are close to the
> >Klipsch driver then a simple port modification may be all you need. If
the
> >drivers are not close then you may have poor performance at best, or
worse
> >an unloaded driver at lower frequencies which won't last long.
>
> The problem is that the T-S parameters for drivers intended for bass horns
> are not really all that useful.... it doesn't help to think of them like
> you do a normal modern sealed cabinet.
>
> With all of these drivers, the cabinet isn't providing much support
> for the driver, so the Vas really isn't critical. And the lower corner
> of the system is probably set by the size of the horn rather than the
> driver Fs.
>
> I think God that Thiele and Small came along and that we don't have to
> deal with this stuff any more....
>
> I do have measured T-S parameters for the 515 and the smaller Altec
> drivers around here somewhere, but they aren't really very useful.

Unless I misread the original posting, this isn't for a horn, but for a
Klipsch Cornwall. Similar design to the Heresy (direct-radiator woofer, horn
mid and tweet), but instead of a 12" in a sealed box, it uses a 15" in a
vented box. And judging by the pictures of the cabinet at
http://www.belgaudio.com/kcmap.htm , adjusting the venting is going to be a
tad difficult.

If this box is anything like the Heresies I rebuilt, some major cabinet
damping is in order -- I used 1x2 braces on most of the walls, mounted
edgeways, and glued large hunks of sidewalk-separator (asphalt-impregnated
felt) to the walls using Liquid Nails. Stunk up the place something awful,
but it really improved the Heresies' sound, as the old cabinets were
resonant as hell. Also the Heresies had no sound-absorbing material in the
cabinet at all -- none. Adding that helped too -- I used Dacron.

Peace,
Paul
Anonymous
July 2, 2005 11:02:51 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"SSJVCmag" <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com> wrote in message
news:BEEAF74A.B5A0%ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com...

> My concern was that while the FLAT of the rim shol dbe good for a mounting
> reference, the little diagonal RIBS wouldn;t have been built with worry
> towards such consistancy and precision, them being on the intended UNUSED
> side, and if they were what butted up to the cabinet hole, they would
force
> a non-flat fit...

I don't think it'd be a real problem with enough caulk, but if you're really
worried, why not go ahead and rear-mount them? You'll have the cabinets open
anyway to remove the old woofs.

Peace,
Paul
Anonymous
July 2, 2005 11:04:43 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"SSJVCmag" <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com> wrote in message
news:BEEB4315.B5ED%ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com...

> I'm thinking the easiest is going to be get a 15" speaker gasket and cut
it
> in segments to fit between the ribs. Maybe fill what gaps might be around
> each rib with silicone caukling.

Not silicone, please not silicone. That stuff will make your life hell if
you ever need to take the woofers out again, especially in a recess. Trust
me on that one; I did it and I'm sorry.

Peace,
Paul
Anonymous
July 2, 2005 11:10:18 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"SSJVCmag" <ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com> wrote in message
news:BEEB7248.B616%ten@nozirev.gamnocssj.com...

> I have one 421 in (replaced the bad Kwoofer) and it sound s 'similar' if
not
> exactly the same. Certainly good enough for the next couple weeks.
> What was dissapointing in putting both of these on the bench for the first
> time in years and years (these two having been sitting for months waiting
> for service) is that one of the Tweets is bad (very lo output).
> A replacement diaphragm seems in order.. Unless... Could the same thing
have
> happened to the tweet that happened to the woof? Physical shock messed up
> the VC gap allignment?

Sure.

> What options are there for these? If I'm going to play then maybe tweeter
> change mod? Going to a trachorn would require a whole new baffleboard and
> cutouts...

You can still get replacement tweeters -- I don't think the T35 had
replaceable voice coils, but I might be wrong about that.

> These things really don't have bass extension do they?
> Is there any way to trim the sqwauk and tweet levels?

Sure -- L-pads in between the crossover and the squawker and tweeter. I'm
pretty sure they were 8-ohm. Oh, something else useful: assuming you have
the old metal horns, coat the OUTSIDES of the horns with stainless putty
(obtainable from any good hardware store). Otherwise they ring like a goddam
bell.

Getting rid of the resonances in the cabinet walls and horns, and putting
some absorbent material in the boxes, made the Heresies livable speakers, if
not exactly accurate. (Okay, if not at all accurate.) Way the hell better
than when I started, anyway.

Have fun!

Peace,
Paul
Anonymous
July 2, 2005 11:12:58 AM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Chris Hornbeck" <chrishornbeckremovethis@att.net> wrote in message
news:ikvbc1t7drhg9rfg7uh3kjcv59n07t0s11@4ax.com...

> >> ps: if these were mine, I'd fill the box with pillow stuffing.
> >> Yeah, I know, but there it is.
> >
> >You mean damp them? Or turn em into doghouses?
> >Klipsch didn;t run to fibreglas linings did they?
>
> Ported boxes are designed based on a high Q resonance within
> the box. This is just a personal opinion, and others may,
> and will, disagree, but this is just Whack. JMOPO.
>
> Old pillows are cheap and the test is reversible.

Dacron stuffing, a couple bucks a bag at most, at your local fabric store.
Probably cleaner than old pillows and not as likely to attract bugs, an
issue with vented boxes as it isn't with sealed.

Peace,
Paul.
Anonymous
July 5, 2005 12:41:58 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Robin" <julirobin@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:efGdnSSYNdpmRFnfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> http://tinyurl.com/9dczw
>
> Pick up a couple of these...
>
> Double up if necessary...
>
> Should be no problem, tighten slowly in a crossways pattern till snug.

Using some seating compound. Can be anything from a foam strip material to
a plasticene-like substance.

geoff
Anonymous
July 5, 2005 12:43:35 PM

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Scott Dorsey" <kludge@panix.com> wrote in message news:D a3t81$gl5

> I think God that Thiele and Small came along and that we don't have to
> deal with this stuff any more

I was at a presentation by Nev last night !

geoff
!