Voltage for Studiomaster 16-4-2

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Sune T. B. Nielsen"
>
> I got an old mixing board called Studiomaster 16-4-2. Using google it
> seems to me that there are different ones called that and this is the one
> with five band EQ and LED meters.
>
> I didnt get a wire for supplying power to it so i tried adding a standard
> power jack.


** Err - what is that ??

The unit has an IEC inlet - standard as it gets.


> But then the fuses in my appartment blew.


** YOU have made a mess of the wiring.


>
> On the outside of the cabinet is written:
>
> "Fuse T2A (Inside voltage selector) 50/60 Hz ~ 100 120 220 240 V, 50VA
> Max"
>
> But inside there is no fuse and no voltage selector.


** NO !!

The fuse is INSIDE the voltage selector device - the thing you apparently
REMOVED and threw away.

( The voltage selector device is adjacent to the IEC 3 pin power inlet - a
part of the same unit. )



** Likely you will kill yourself or destroy the desk.

Take it to a service tech - you IDIOT.




............. Phil

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Mike Rivers"
>
>> ** Err - what is that ??
>>
>> The unit has an IEC inlet - standard as it gets.
>
> Maybe he wanted to find out if he has a 120 or 240 volt mixer?


** Piss off - parrott brain.

>
>> > But then the fuses in my appartment blew.
>
> Could it be that he replaced a multi-pin DC power connector (for an
> external power supply) with an IEC connector, then plugged it in?


** I know BOTH versions of the Studiomaster 16-4-2 mixer in question.

BOTH have normal mains supplies built in.

The newer model with LED ramps ( in lieu of VUs) has an IEC inlet with
integral fuse holder & voltage selector.




............ Phil

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Sune T. B. Nielsen" wrote:

> Hi
> I got an old mixing board called Studiomaster 16-4-2. Using google it seems
> to me that there are different ones called that and this is the one with
> five band EQ and LED meters.
>
> I didnt get a wire for supplying power to it so i tried adding a standard
> power jack.

What do you mean 'standard power jack' ? There's no such thing !


> But then the fuses in my appartment blew.

What's that got to do with anything ?


> On the outside of the cabinet is written:
>
> "Fuse T2A (Inside voltage selector) 50/60 Hz ~ 100 120 220 240 V, 50VA Max"
>
> But inside there is no fuse and no voltage selector.

There may be no voltage selector perhaps but there certainly should be a fuse (
likely inside the IEC AC inlet ).

> The wires from the
> voltage input goes to the power on/off switch and from there directly to the
> transformer coil. From the coil four wires goes to the phantom power switch
> and six to some circuit that then gives power to the rest of the board.

Yes, that's right. The 'some circuit' is the regulated DC power supply.


> My first thought was that a previous owner could have added his own power
> supply, but then i noted that all the capacitors are by same brand (and
> looks like they are of same age) as the rest in the board.

They are indeed original.


> I found a drawing of the power supplies of a Studiomaster 16-4-2 here
> http://fa.utfs.org/diy/
> It has a T2 fuse and says that you should the connect in series for 240 V
> power or in parallel for 120V.
>
> Could it be that the board is connected for 110 V while im giving it 220?
> Which wires are to be connected in series if want to change which power it
> can use?
>
> Any help or ideas is much appeciated
>
> Best whishes
>
> Sune T. B. Nielsen, Denmark

It's too old for me to give a definitive answer to the transformer wiring but
frankly it sounds like you're struggling and should get a tech involved befoe
you damage the poor thing. If you blow the transformer by overvolting it that's
certainly your probelm and you'll find it near impossible to find an exact
replacement.


Graham ( Studiomaster designer )

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

"Sune T. B. Nielsen" wrote:

> I found a drawing of the power supplies of a Studiomaster 16-4-2 here
> http://fa.utfs.org/diy/
> It has a T2 fuse and says that you should the connect in series for 240 V
> power or in parallel for 120V.

Different mixer.


> Could it be that the board is connected for 110 V while im giving it 220?
> Which wires are to be connected in series if want to change which power it
> can use?

The transfomer in your mixer was designed with a multiple tapped primary. That's
the only way it can do 100-120-220-240 V.

I just looked closely at the transformer and it looks like someone has replaced
the original with a single fixed voltage primary ( the 2 violet wires ).

See the 2 violet wires go to the power switch and then to the blue and brown
neutral and phase wires. That's the ac power. Which then correctly goes to the
*unfused* IEC ac power inlet.

That's the only *standard* power connector worth considering by the way !

You keep mentioning '110V'. Was this mixer previously used on '110V' ? If so,
then that's the only voltage it can work on since the apparent transformer
substitution.

If you're *sure* and I mean 100% *SURE* that it's not a '110V' ( actually 120V )
model then connecting the mixer with a standard IEC mains lead may actually
cause it to work ! A fuse should be added though !

I recommend a smaller value fuse than the value printed on the panel though.
We're more careful about that kind of thing now. 315mA T type should be ok.
Maybe 500mA if you find the fuse blows in normal use.

Graham

Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro (More info?)

In article <3kdt49Fu0pehU1@individual.net> philallison@tpg.com.au writes:

> > So what mixer that you don't know about does he have that has a 4-pin
> > XLR for a power connector?
>
>
> ** None - see Pooh's post.

I did, and he was good enough to describe the situation so I didn't
have to look at the pictures that were posted on a web site after I
saw the one picture posted to the newsgroup. It appears that this is
no longer a standard mixer. Nobody would know about it until seeing
it, or at least the pictures.

> The pics you are alluding to were posted some 4 hours AFTER my last post.
>
> Try reading threads in the TIME sequence the posts arrived - parrott
> brain !!!

I'll read the newsgroup the way I choose. If it bothers you that I've
questioned something that's been answered before I've seen the answer,
then just ignore it. But I know you like callling people names for
whatever reason you can find, no matter how trivial.

I read my newsgroups "off line" which means that I might download a
batch in the evening, write replies, but don't upload them until the next
morning (as I'm doing now). If you want a real time answer from me,
call me on the phone. And if you don't want any answer from me,
ignore my postings. You'll live longer.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo