How Do You Install Drapes?

Archived from groups: rec.audio.high-end (More info?)

I've done this for a listening room and elsewhere, although I'm no
expert. As to the height or vertical placement, take one of the
curtains, install the curtain clips and attach the curtain to one of the
curtain rods, and hold it up close to the ceiling to get an estimate
regarding the positioning needed to get the drop you desire. In my case,
the (ready-made) curtains were a little longer than needed, and after
installation, I had to have them hemmed up an inch or two. Regarding
nailing the supports to the wall, it's probably advisable to nail at
least some of them to the studs. To find the studs, for a few dollars,
you can get a "stud-finder" from a hardware store. I suggest that you
start with that approach and nail or screw the hangers into the studs
where possible. (You can also find the studs by tapping on the wall, or
drilling small finder holes into the wall until you locate them.)

Regarding the acoustic effects, I think that in general it's recommended
that some of the walls have absorbent materials, perhaps including the
rear wall, but not all of them, depending on the degree of absorbing
material or liveness" of the rest of the room. There are computer
programs for optimizing the acoustics of a room. Obviously, some curtain
materials are more absorbant (usually more expensive) than others.

Jim



Fred Jones wrote:
> This may seem an inappropriate place for such a question, but I'm
> trying to install floor-to-ceiling drapes (as part of an aesthetic
> LEDE treatment) in a listening room (I can't afford to hire someone)
> and I generally bollocks things like this up. I rather expect that
> other high-enders must've done this before (or will do so in the
> future), so someone here might be able to provide me with some
> guidance.
>
> Here's a bit of background on why I chose drapes, but feek free ti
> skip to the next paragraph if you're not interested:
> Years ago, I worked for a high-end audio retailer. In setting up a new
> high-end demo room, we hired a prominent interior designer and asked
> him to design "a living room environment with optimal acoustics for
> home audio reproduction". The room went through a number of
> experimental phases with various types and layouts of sound absorbtion
> and reinforcement materials, but, ultimately, the final room included
> a wall of floor-to-ceiling drapes, which worked both acoustically and
> aesthetically. And that idea of using drapes has remained with me to
> this day.
>
> Anyway, the target wall is 144" (12') wide x 93" (7 3/4') tall and the
> goal is to install the drapes so they run the full 12-foot width of
> the wall and from floor-to-ceiling (i.e., covering the entire wall).
> (The drapes are a few inches taller than the floor-to-ceiling distance
> and I'm aware that I'll either have to hem them shorter (a question
> for another time) or that they'll "pool" a bit on the floor, which
> actually might even add a certain informal elegance and charm to the
> room.)
>
> I've already purchased the requisite hardware:
> - Two 6-foot curtain rods w/a double-ended connecting screw to join
> them together for the required 12' span
> - 4 curtain rod hangers w/screws & drywall anchors for each
> (unfortunately, the packaging doesn't provide the sizes of the screws
> or anchors)
> - 6 sets of 44" x 96" (unlined) sailcloth drape sections, each of
> which have sewn-in pockets along the top seam through which the
> drapery rod is inserted
> - A carpenters' bubble level and electronic stud finder (if required)
>
> I'm sure I can figure out how to feed the rod through the drapes'
> pockets, but what I don't know is where to start to hang the curtain
> rod and related hardware hangers? Do I measure? Do I drill? Do I
> screw? In the middle? At one end? Which end?
> I've no idea what or where to measure to insure the curtain rod is
> level and in the correct location on the wall or how to use the
> anchors--do I drill holes in the wall (what size drill bit do I use?)
> or just bang them in with a hammer?
>
> A friend told me the curtain rod must be affixed to wall studs with
> long bolts, while another said the drywall anchors will do the job as
> long as there's a hanger every 5 feet or so (I have 4 sets of hangers,
> so there should be more than sufficient support). Meanwhile another
> friend said it depends on the construction/weight of the drapes,
> which, in this case, are constructed of unlined sailcloth.

Archived from groups: rec.audio.high-end (More info?)

I think that would be a good idea. However, you should probably ask the
dealer who sold you the drapes and hardware.

Jim

Fred Jones wrote:
> Jim Cate <jimcate@pdq.net> wrote in message news:<ciksmf05js@news3.newsguy.com>...
>
>>I've done this for a listening room and elsewhere, although I'm no
>>expert. As to the height or vertical placement, take one of the
>>curtains, install the curtain clips and attach the curtain to one of the
>>curtain rods, and hold it up close to the ceiling to get an estimate
>>regarding the positioning needed to get the drop you desire. In my case,
>>the (ready-made) curtains were a little longer than needed, and after
>>installation, I had to have them hemmed up an inch or two. Regarding
>>nailing the supports to the wall, it's probably advisable to nail at
>>least some of them to the studs. To find the studs, for a few dollars,
>>you can get a "stud-finder" from a hardware store. I suggest that you
>>start with that approach and nail or screw the hangers into the studs
>>where possible. (You can also find the studs by tapping on the wall, or
>> drilling small finder holes into the wall until you locate them.)
>
>
> Jim,
> Thank you for the reply.
> I've got a stud-finder, but only one stud comes close to where I need
> to afix the hangers. So should I purchase some long nails to use for
> that hanger instead of the plastic anchors and screws that came with
> the hangers?
>
>
>
>
>>Regarding the acoustic effects, I think that in general it's recommended
>>that some of the walls have absorbent materials, perhaps including the
>>rear wall, but not all of them, depending on the degree of absorbing
>>material or liveness" of the rest of the room. There are computer
>>programs for optimizing the acoustics of a room. Obviously, some curtain
>>materials are more absorbant (usually more expensive) than others.
>>Jim
>
>
> Only the rear wall will be damped with the drapes. The floor has an
> area rug and the side walls and ceiling will remail bare.