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Issue with USB ports/connection to keyboard and mouse.

Last response: in Windows 7
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August 16, 2012 11:42:29 PM

I had an issue with my USB ports on my PC. At random times, my PC would disconnect my keyboard and mouse. Both of the ones I own have red LEDs on them and flash when this occurs. The disconnect sound is not heard when this happens. I am forced to plug out my mouse and replug it into my USB port that is available in the front. Only sometimes does it reconnect and I'm able to save the work/game I was doing at the time but others, it doesn't connect at all. I have to restart my PC when this happens, in order for them to reconnect, as unplugging and replugging does not work. When disconnected in games, sometimes the character in game would keep moving forward or in circles until it disconnects completely.

OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit
Mouse: Logitech G500
Keyboard: Microsoft X4 Sidewinder
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS

I think that it may be an issue with the drivers or the software (which was why I posted it in the Windows 7 section) but I'm not too sure. The problem happens at random times so I can't repeat it, but it happens often enough that I can't tolerate it anymore. Can someone help me?
a b $ Windows 7
August 17, 2012 3:49:58 AM

The front usb ports are pluged into the motherboard on the bottom edge and the plug could be loose. I would check it to see. Also can you plug the keyboard and mouse into the rear ports to see if tose work any better?
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a b $ Windows 7
August 17, 2012 3:55:26 AM

yeah, try and plug directly into the MB USB ports at the IO Panel, and see if that helps
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August 17, 2012 4:40:22 AM

inzone said:
The front usb ports are pluged into the motherboard on the bottom edge and the plug could be loose. I would check it to see. Also can you plug the keyboard and mouse into the rear ports to see if tose work any better?


dingo07 said:
yeah, try and plug directly into the MB USB ports at the IO Panel, and see if that helps


Actually, those are the USB ports that they are plugged into and the ones I'm having issues with. I only have one front 2.0 USB port available (I have a USB 3.0, but I didn't connect it to the motherboard). I have to plug it into the front when the back ones disconnect. They work fine when they connect to the KB and mouse when the PC starts up, but on occasion, they disconnect my keyboard and mouse.

I'll open the side panel and reseat all the cables to see if the problem still occurs.
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a b $ Windows 7
August 17, 2012 1:07:37 PM

It's not the cables if what you just stated is correct - If you're having issues plugged directly into the IO panel, then it's your drivers

Go into Device Manager and see if there's any issues with Keyboards, Mice and other pointing devices, or Universal Serial Bus controllers

It could look like either of these, if there's an issue
http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=A0PDoKjPQS5QFmMAyVWJzbkF;_ylu=X3oDMTBlMTQ4cGxyBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1n?back=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3Fp%3Ddevice%2Bmanager%2Bissues%26fr%3Dyfp-t-543-s%26fr2%3Dpiv-web%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D2&w=499&h=373&imgurl=driver-pro.com%2Fstatic%2Fimages%2Farticle-content%2Fati-driver-site%2Fproblem-in-device-manager.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fdriver-pro.com%2Frelated%2Fenglish%2Fati-driver-website%2F&size=108+KB&name=Problem+in+the+device+manager&p=device+manager+issues&oid=34bccd2979661fa340db1ebc2214c013&fr2=piv-web&fr=yfp-t-543-s&tt=Problem%2Bin%2Bthe%2Bdevice%2Bmanager&b=0&ni=160&no=2&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=11p41fh5l&sigb=13goqfql4&sigi=12q3ugmm3&.crumb=XKcFy97xA0Y

http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=A0PDoKhxQi5Q418AINKjzbkF;_ylu=X3oDMTBsNXNqYzdwBHNlYwNmcC10aHVtYnMEc2xrA2ltZw--?back=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3Fp%3Ddevice%2Bmanager%2Bissues%26fr%3Dyfp-t-543-s%26fr2%3Dpiv-web%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D2&w=639&h=447&imgurl=forums.techguy.org%2Fattachments%2F178202d1283331939%2Fdevice-manager.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.techguy.org%2Fnetworking%2F947109-network-drivers-problem.html&size=42.5+KB&name=Network+drivers+problem-device-manager.jpg&p=device+manager+issues&oid=a62e9f931236c0cd13718f5b33a9ba0c&fr2=piv-web&fr=yfp-t-543-s&tt=Network%2Bdrivers%2Bproblem-device-manager.jpg&b=0&ni=160&no=17&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=128gul2am&sigb=13goqfql4&sigi=1239rk2gf&.crumb=XKcFy97xA0Y
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a b $ Windows 7
August 17, 2012 2:18:45 PM

I would plug it in were you want to use it, right click on "my computer" > select "manage" > select "device manger" > scroll down to "universal serial bus controllers" > unistall any "unknown usb devices" and usb hubs (dont unistall any of the usb controllers).

uptop of that window click on scan for hardware changes (comuter icon with magnifying glass) this shold reinstall everything you just unistalled.

if it continues you may have a powersupply problem (underpowered).
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a b $ Windows 7
August 17, 2012 3:35:03 PM

There may be a driver conflict going on between the mouse and the keyboard. If you go into the event viewer and see what is posted there when this happens you may get a handle on what's causing it.
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a b $ Windows 7
August 17, 2012 3:48:46 PM

You can also go into the action center and use the troubleshooter to find an issue.
controle panel / system and security / action center
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August 18, 2012 7:57:27 PM

@Dingo07
The only ?'s under unknown devices were for an Ethernet controller and my Xbox Wireless receiver (confirmed since I assigned a driver to it and successfully connected my Xbox controller).

@The Great Randini
I tried to do it but when I uninstalled the hubs, the mouse became unresponsive and I couldn't click it. Most likely, I uninstalled the hub in which the mouse was connected to. I don't think I have a powersupply issue since my PC only has one Graphics card (a Sapphire 7950 OC, not OCed though) and it is a 750 PSU from

@inzone
There were no reports in event viewer and the troubleshooter didn't work, unfortunately.

Here is my whole PC build, if it helps.
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
Case: NZXT Phantom PHAN-001WT White Steel / Plastic Enthusiast ATX Full Tower Computer Case
PSU: CORSAIR Professional Series HX750 (CMPSU-750HX) 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000 BX80623I72600K
Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel 2011/1366/1155 and AMD FM1/AM3+
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL
SSD: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
HDD: Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Optical: SAMSUNG CD/DVD Burner 22X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 22X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 48X CD-R 24X CD-RW Black 1.5Gbps Model SH-222AL/BSBS LightScribe Support - OEM
Video Card: SAPPHIRE 11196-02-40G Radeon HD 7950 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card (OC Version)
Mouse: Logitech G500 10 Buttons Dual-mode Scroll Wheel USB Wired Laser 5700 dpi Gaming Mouse
Keyboard: Microsoft SIDEWINDER X4 Keyboard

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August 19, 2012 8:10:46 PM

Something that I've noticed is that my Bluetooth module (built into the motherboard) flashes blue at the same rate of my keyboard and such. When I leave my mouse in the front USB from the last time it occurred, on occasion, it gets disconnected and I have to plug it into the back, which successfully makes a connection (until the whole issue starts once again).
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a b $ Windows 7
August 19, 2012 11:22:22 PM

when did this start happening? can you recall installing a driver or running windows update, and then you had issues?
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August 20, 2012 2:52:22 AM

Sorry, I really can't. It's been going on for a while (maybe a month or two). I did reformat my PC though, in order to resolve another issue which caused my PC to hang when shutting down. However, since that wiped all the memory on my main drive, I don't think it affected this. I did use a registry cleaner/system optimizer type program though, maybe that might've caused it? It did automatically update my drivers.
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December 18, 2012 2:43:12 AM

I have a Thermaltake full tower with front USB 2 & 3 ports. When I plug in a USB iPad cable (nothing connected) into the USB 3 port, my wireless mouse fails to work. I switch to a front USB 2 port and everything is OK. What gives?
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January 8, 2014 9:42:25 AM

I had the same problem where my mouse and keyboard which were connected to USB port rather than PS2 port use to disconnect frequently for 6-7 seconds and then reconnect.(for over 4 months) and i lost all hope. In my case power was coming from Power socket to UPS, which was further supplying to SMPS. I read all similar forums and utilized every trick which i can deploy like changing power settings, disabling gestures, updating drivers, changing OS, new mouse/keyboard etc...
Finally i changed SMPS, it did gave some hope for 1-2 days, But still issue not resolved. Suddenly an idea came to my mind of placing VOLTAGE STABILIZER to this whole unit....What i did: Placed Voltage Stabilizer in between UPS and Power socket. and of my surprise Issue got resolved. And it's been 2 months i haven't faced that issue and really happy to share the solution which could be applied by many users.
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14 minutes ago

jstefani said:
I have a Thermaltake full tower with front USB 2 & 3 ports. When I plug in a USB iPad cable (nothing connected) into the USB 3 port, my wireless mouse fails to work. I switch to a front USB 2 port and everything is OK. What gives?


I bet this is due to USB3 and the compatibility issue it has with Bluetooth (and sometimes wifi). A bizzare problem, which I only found out about after having odd issues with this combination of hardware on a laptop and then a desktop. I got some tips from http://www.bluetoothandusb3.com and in the end found a neat solution to the problem. Basically its about keeping the two as far apart as possible.
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