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Review of Samsung 226BW Must Read B4Ubuy

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  • Flat Panel Monitors
  • Samsung
  • Peripherals
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March 21, 2007 7:35:00 PM

Got the 226bw. I got the S varient made my samsung. I'll start with the pros. Magicbright is part of the OSD now, my sammy 193+ uses the software varient. Note, if you want to dual moniter the 226 and the 193+ you will not be able to make changes to the 193+ settings, the software magicbright will not load and error out.

Impressions:
My first impression of the 226bw is just how big it is! I've always liked samsung's style and liked the quality even better. First off, the stand is not height adjustable, but it swivels and bends. Using the calibration tool provided with my sammy 193+ called Natural Color I had to do very little changes, really, the only setting to change would be the contrast about 3 points lower. Optimal color resulted by turning off Magicolor as it seemed to wash out deep reds and provided an unrealistic hue to it.

Gaming:
However, like i mentioned earlier, gaming with magicolor can make things look prettier, my preference is color accuracy. I played a quick match of DOTA, the game is highly texture based and very colorful, so I felt it was a good game to test the quality of the monitor. The results impressed me, keep in mind I've used the 193p+ for gaming up till now so I am comparing it to a superior panel type as the 193p+ is not TN. The game was undeniably ghosting free, Dota can have alot of fast action going at at one time, which means it is sensitive to ghosting affects. I could tell the response time was faster than my 8ms 193p+ which exceeds my expectations. It probably isnt 2ms GtG but ghosting still was nonexistant. RTA didnt stutter the frames, and i didnt notice the black and white frames inserted, surely playing a game with higher requirements would show some jitter, but I have not heard any reports of such (therefore it must be minimal). RTA is enabled by default, it can be turned off, however, it enables itself again once the moniter is power cycled.

Movies:
I watched "The Return" using the "movie" mode offered by the OSD. This softens whites and as far as i could tell, was pretty much the optimal 6500 warmth for watching movies in. There was no sparkling to speak of, none. Colors were accurate, there were no jitters, no motion blurs, and very even blacks (the backlight bleeding was the only area of uneven blacks). Whites were perfect, this is an area backlight bleeding means nothing in, but I thought I'd mention it anyway.

I want to go over the weaknesses of this moniter because that is likely more useful than my subjective impressions of the moniter. First off, there is bleeding, blacks are not as deep as my 193+ and as such, I give it an average rating. I have a benq that has much worse backlight bleeding, but that monitor is 3ish years old. The good thing is that the backlight bleeding is limited to the top and bottom regions, and quite frankly, it only shows up when watching movies due to the black bars cropping the picture. The uniformity is very good; only the areas with bleeding didn’t match the area's surrounding it, thus, the "meat" of the display is very uniform making it suitable for Photoshop, gaming, and even word processing. Viewing angle once again doesn't even come close to matching the 193p+, horizontal angles are good, and hold true to the specs, however, the vertical limited, especially when viewing at a downward angle. Just be sure to use the tilt function to ensure you hit the sweet spot. I'm not saying it’s bad by any means; it is just more limited than the 193p+.

In case you want to know if you have an "a" or an "s" variety, the sticker located on the rear of the display. You have to pop off the cable cover to see it. It will show as "Samsung 226bw S", if you have an "A" variety, your results may differ from mine. It is likely made by AUOptronics which isn’t necessarily bad as every brand has monitor models made by them AFAIK.

Overall I highly recommend this monitor, the style, OSD, and performance is top notch, and arguably second to none. Aside from some backlight bleeding (the norm for TN panels), the performance is excellent in every area I tested it in. The monitor is well suited for dual or single monitor use, and excels in gaming especially. The increased contract ratio really shows its muscle when viewing dark pictures. Based on my experience with monitors and my sensitive eyes, I can state definitively that this is the best 22" monitor I have ever used. Out of the box it performs very well, and achieves near perfect status once it’s calibrated. This is a monitor that will not disappoint and will continue to impress you for a very long time.

I hope this has helped you with your next monitor purchase. :p  [/b]
Please ask as many questions as you'd like and I will answer them the best I can.
Regards,

Eric

More about : review samsung 226bw read b4ubuy

March 23, 2007 6:37:19 PM

Thanks for the review.

I'm just starting to look at WS monitors, probably in the 22" range (to avoid having to buy the modern 8800gtx every 6 months to keep up).

Just one question. What made you choose this model over the others out there?
March 23, 2007 7:18:34 PM

I chose it because I trust the samsung brand, the feedback on this moniter was excellent, and the cost was reasonable. Other brands offer cheaper moniter with similar specs such as acer, lg, and veiwsonic. However, acer tends to use an optical filter that screws color accuracy for the sake of looking pretty, not to mention they are 6bit color. I looked at LG and they also had limited color reproduction, but are still quality panels. Viewsonic is probably the best second choice because many of them are acutally samsung panels, for this reason, the fact that the best moniters from different brands almost always have a samsung panel in them anyways, i went straight up for samsung.

Things to look at when buying an LCD include:

Contrast Ratio: dynamic means nothing, stock contrast ratio is what matters, typically, subtract up to 25% of the given ratio to get the actual ratio, ie. 1000:1 in real world is probably 750:1 or less.

Color: look for 16.7 million colors, or, 8 bit. Most TN panels can only display 6-bit color but they use methods to trick the brain into seeing 8-bits of color. Go for 16.7 million colors as it shows that a higher quality panel is being used (in most cases)

Brightness: not that important, but, over 250 is good to maximize calibration options.

Resonse time: Many manufacturers say MUCH lower than they actually perform, check reviews that measure the real ms as opposed to what the box states. For most situations, if the average ms is less than 16ms and the peak is at or below 8ms you arent going to see any ghosting.

Panel type: TN (twisted nematic) are the most commen, as it is the cheapes to make since onely one transistor per pixel is needed. Virtually all fast panels are TN.

S-IPS (selective in-plane-switching) is not as commen, it requires more power, but produces the full gamut of colors. Color depth is most impressive with these types but usually have a lower contrast ratio due to the need to have excessively bright backlights to penetrate the extra tranmission area that the two transistors per pixels block. NEC offers this panel type in various products they produce.


Manufacturer: AUoptronics, hyundai, samsung, and LG all have their own fabs. And all have contracts with AUO to manufacture some models of their product lines. AUO isnt necessarily bad, but it does deal with very high volume, quality control is less stringent with them as the in house guys. You won't know what in your panel unless you open up the casing to find out. Based on reviews of AUO panels, they are average to poor, mostly good for gaming because color accuracy isnt as important as fast ms timings. Samsung has a stellar reputation of making very good panels consistently besting the competition is color reproduction, even blacks, and little backlight bleeding.

Based on this information I chose the Samsung 226bw, at this time, it is the best moniter available that can handle the full gamut of tasks including, photoshop, gaming, word processing, and general use.
Related resources
March 30, 2007 4:05:31 PM

could you let me know what calibaration settings you have it at?
March 30, 2007 7:35:11 PM

Using the Natural Color calibration tool I got these settings. The nice thing is that these are saved under the "custom" setting. So you can easily switch from dynamic, movies, text, games, and sport to find the setting you like the most.


Brightness: 68
Contrast: 85
red: 26
Green: 28
Blue: 11
Color Tone: Custom
Gamma: Mode 1
April 3, 2007 6:09:18 AM

I cant think of any way for them to know, as the S or A is located on the moniter itself behind the cable cover. I've scoured my box for any indication but from what I can tell, there is no other way to know. I've tried to start a thread on people's experiences with A or S panels, but it hasnt got much action. The general feedback is as you say, S is better, A is harrowingly worse.
April 4, 2007 12:32:04 PM

Looks like BEHardware agrees with your coice of 22" monitors. Well, at least they will when the French version of their article gets translated:

"Le vainqueur : au moins c'est clair. Pour une fois, il n'y a pas à tergiverser. Il y a un grand vainqueur et un seul : le Samsung SyncMaster 226BW. Réactivité, finition, design, rendu des couleurs, il surpasse tous ses concurrents. Son principal point noir : une ergonomie pas à la hauteur, et c'est justement le cas de le dire puisque son pied est fixe, qu'il ne s'ajuste pas en hauteur. Il n'a pas non plus de hub USB, ni de mode pivot, ni de lecteur de cartes intégré."

Roughly translated, "there is one big winner and only one, the 226BW. The 226's Responsiveness, color rendition & design surpass all other test candidates. It's principle weakness, no height adjustment, pivot mode and no USB hub, nor integrated [flash] card reader."

Well, my French is worse than my German, but my translation is more or less accurate (insert "grain o' salt" here...).
April 27, 2007 2:29:58 AM

Just wanted to let you folks know that I have a SS 226BW "S" panel.

I have had it running on a GeForce4 TI4400 which is a DVI/I by the way, and still the picture looks awesome. Can't wait until I upgrade to a hotter vid card.

I've owned it a total of 30 minutes with the setting suggested a couple of posts earlier, and the monitor looks hot.
April 27, 2007 6:16:45 PM

Quote:
Is there anyway to know whether newegg is currently shipping out s or a panels? Because I really want this monitor, but I don't want to risk getting an a panel as people are complaining it has tons of problems
Looking at the Newegg ratings the people who got A or C models are not very happy and there is no way of knowing what they may send.
May 6, 2007 12:06:37 PM

i just bought this monitor and got it 4 days ago...
it's a C panel.. :( 

but actually there's nothing wrong with it...still looks good to me... but maybe i have never seen the S panel before so there's no comparison...
May 7, 2007 8:58:45 AM

Hi, thanks for the great review. I have a couple of questions.

First off, where are you from? Is you monitor for the american market or european? I am from europe and over here we may be having a different issue. The part number (LS22MEWSFV) in all the photos of the S and A models i've seen is suffixed with an /XSF, and over here we have the suffix /EDC (which means EU market if i am not mistaken). The thing is that there have been reports of panels simply without the marker S, A or C - simply blank (226bw [R] -blank-). Have you ever heard about this? or anyone else for that matter.
I've been told by a retailer(and their general supplier)that this blank version is manufactured in Galanta, Slovakia and that they use Samsung panels exclusively! Someone please confirm, or answer if you know anything about the subject.

Secondly, i would like to confirm that the panel number M220EW01 (which corresponds to the AUO panel. The number can be found in the OSD) has 5ms response time! Everyone interested in the matter please check
this
out. Its a great link and puts a good professional perspective on things, so the S and A thing is not something made up on the forums, Samsung even confirmed it, although Samsung never said that the A panel IS infeorir. And i imagine they never will.
So can anyone with an A panel confirm the 5ms response time?!

Ill be watching this thread, i hope someone has same info!

Cheers!
May 7, 2007 10:04:46 AM

I'm in Canada, so I get the same stuff the US gets. I wish I could be of some use for you, but I am limited geographically to offer any meaningful assistence. Its a dammed shame that samsung would do this to its customers, I can only imagine how many retailers, let alone customers who are annoyed that the quality Samsung has acheived in the past, may not be met with its users.
May 10, 2007 11:58:39 AM

Well my 226BW should be in today. I got it from Best Buy(so I could return it easier if I don't like it). I had to order it through the store because all the Best Buys here where sold out. Hopefully I will be happy with it, I am really looking forward to going from a 19" to a 22" :) 
May 10, 2007 7:57:48 PM

I'm dual weilding a 19 inch and the aforementioned 226bw, they sit side by side, suffice to say, you're going to really enjoy the difference! The 22incher really dominates everything i do, i pretty much only use the 19 for msn, all my main stuff is done on the 226.

Enjoy!
May 10, 2007 10:54:52 PM

Wow this monitor is awesome. 22" is a huge step up. I ended up getting the "a" version but it seems to be just fine. I adjusted everything and the colors look great. I also have tested it with Counter Strike Source and BF2 and no problems at all. No stuttering problems or ghosting.

And you are right, this thing really dominates my 940BW(19")
June 18, 2007 3:55:21 PM

Hi guys

I bought this too a few days ago. It was a bit of an impulse buy but I did read the review on behardware. I was thinking both s type or A type would be okay because you can calibrate the A type to very close quality of the 'S' type. Little did I know that there would be a'C' panel too. Apprently there are 4 different types out there now.

I made PCworld open up the panel so I could check...nothing. There is no longer any identifier.. I thought well no problem I will take it home and go into the service menu as described on behardware..(set brightness and contrast to 0 then press source button for 5 seconds) surprise surprise, no panel info there either : (

Is there any way to tell which type I have apart from the two methods already described? Mine was made in slovakia just last month I think.

The monitor looks amazing to me but then I have been using the same phillips brilliance 15 inch LCD for the last 4-5 years so anything is likely to look good to me since I am not much of a connisaure when it comes to LCD monitors. There seems tome backlight bleed at the edges but I am not sure if it is acceptable level for LCD or not.

If anyone can figure out a method to identify the panel then please share. Thanks. Would appreciate some calibration advice/tool info too.

rgrds
SL
June 18, 2007 10:30:03 PM

Here is something anyone with a C panel should check out. Its a site with profiles for the C panel, it also reviews it too. On the plus side, after calibration the white delta is 0.7!!!! Thats in a word, INCREDIBLE. So if you got a C panel all is not lost.

The back is where you find the panel type and you will see something like this.

Here are some direct links to the profiles.
"C" panel Profiles:
Click here for C panel Profiles
"A" Panel Profiles
A panel Profiles
And a second more detailed
A panel profile 2
"S" Panel Profiles
Couldn't find any, but I provided my own profile in my first post.
June 19, 2007 9:35:02 AM

Hi eric

Samsung are no longer putting identifiers on the monitor sticker or within service menu so that my panel can be identified. If I knew for sure then I would take the approprairte ICC profile and apply but I cant even tell which Panel it is.

rgrds
SL
June 19, 2007 2:15:06 PM

I understand. If no idicators are provided than I would suggest these settings for general C panel profiles. The CPT based panels may or may not be listed as C, rest assured I am searching for information regarding this fourth type, but for the time being I'll offer a link to a calibration program and settings for profiles. To find out which panel type follow these instructions.

-Turn the contrast and brightness to 0.
-Hold down the SOURCE button for 5 seconds.
-A screen with red trim will show up
-Under "Panel Info" will show the manufacturer
-Power cycle the moniter to get rid of the menu

There are some panel's apparently that do not even have this secret menu, please try this and let me know so I can gather as much information as possible.

Heres the settings that might work for some C panels. The author noted that its a hit or miss on whether it helps.

Brightness = 48
- Contrast = 75 (in principle, up until here everything should be fine as these are basic adjustments)
- Red = 62,
- Green = 31,
- Blue = 26.


Free Calibration Tool

This is probably best place to start, as once you have calibrated your monitor your satifaction of the product should increase. I hope this has been of some help to you, and the rest.
June 19, 2007 11:35:10 PM

Thanks man.

To be honest I think it may be a C panel due to the sideways H which is made out of backlight bleed.. I can see a very very faint H forming but only with a totally black background and in a totally dark room. It is not there during movies,games or anything else. Otherwise the monitor is amazing to my untrained eyes atleast (I have lived with a 15 inch Phillips LCD for over 4 years). I think I will keep it after all but I am just Pissed Samsung would pull a cheap trick by outsourcing to 3 different companies producing variable quality monitors whilst putting their name on it. I hope they get all the flak they desreve. I was thinking of purchasing a Samsung 46" LCD TV which I am no longer sure I will due to this stunt.
June 20, 2007 9:13:12 AM

I have also bought a 226 BW and it is unmarked label-wise. However, this article at Be-Hardware (http://www.behardware.com/html/news/cat22/page1.html) seems to indicate that all new panels shipped by Samsung are 'S' panels. I will break mine out of the box and let you know what I think.
June 20, 2007 2:55:54 PM

Check to see if it was made in slovakia. That could be a lead to panel identfictaion I think. I read somewhere that Samasung manufacture their own in this factory but it could just bee a red herring. Mine was built in late May in Slovakia.
June 21, 2007 12:26:33 PM

Hey guys, I' m back! :) 

SilentLucidity, the panel is manufactured in Slovakia. I had a word with the E-tailer I bought it from (letshaveit.co.uk) and they also said that Slovakia-manufactured panels are from their Samsung plant there, and therefore an S panel.

I had previously bought (and returned) a C Panel from Komplett, so I knew what to look for in comparison. This one is definetely not the same panel as the one I had originally - there is way less backlight bleed (as with all TN panels there is some, but on this one it is VERY VERY marginal). and the colours seem better for sure.

Wrt calibration I am as in the dark as you are. Hardforum have a huge 226BW thread but most of the calibration is for A and C panels. Not sure if they have an S panel one or not. However, I have turned down the insane level of brightness and turned on MagicColor. How about you?
June 22, 2007 1:28:10 AM

i just bought my 226bw today. it says on the sticker its a "226bw S" but theres no [r] between the 226bw and S which is what i always see in screenshots determining what model the panel is.

also theres no panel info in the secret menu to tell me either.
my monitor was made in tianjin china april 2007 if that could be a clue in anyway as to what panel i have.
June 22, 2007 2:17:37 AM

Thats a samsung monitor. Mine says the same thing in regards to city and lack of [r] between the w and S.
June 22, 2007 11:55:48 AM

Quote:
Hey guys, I' m back! :) 

SilentLucidity, the panel is manufactured in Slovakia. I had a word with the E-tailer I bought it from (letshaveit.co.uk) and they also said that Slovakia-manufactured panels are from their Samsung plant there, and therefore an S panel.

I had previously bought (and returned) a C Panel from Komplett, so I knew what to look for in comparison. This one is definetely not the same panel as the one I had originally - there is way less backlight bleed (as with all TN panels there is some, but on this one it is VERY VERY marginal). and the colours seem better for sure.

Wrt calibration I am as in the dark as you are. Hardforum have a huge 226BW thread but most of the calibration is for A and C panels. Not sure if they have an S panel one or not. However, I have turned down the insane level of brightness and turned on MagicColor. How about you?


Cool, so mine could be a 'S' too..(was definently made in Slovakia and only just recently) I have gotten over the whole thing now and do not intend to return. Yeah the brightness in some of the modes is totally insane..especially games mode.

Eric posted a calibration tool in another thread which is pretty good but I must admit the results I managed to get from it were not better than already the preset modes. I got a second opinion from the wife and she definently agreed with me on the colours using magicbright/preset modes were more vivid and closer to true colour. I have turned on the magicbright too and keep it on dynamic contrast. Still a bit bright.

Must admit I was very impressed with the monitor overall even though there is some backlight bleed (very faint and only can be seen in a totally dark room with totally dark screensaver) and the colours are excellent too as I use pictures I have taken myself as wallpapers. I just got paranoid after reading all the different reviews and news on Samsung's antics. Noone likes to get less for their hard earned cash ;)  even if it just the perception of getting a bad deal from a big corporate. Still this is bad by Samsung and I will be careful before purchasing any of their products.

rgrds
SL
June 29, 2007 8:13:50 AM

hey,
Just purchased this monitor after reading all the reviews, and I also got a panel that says Samsung 226BW, S without the [r] between the BW and the S. According to what you guys have said, im guessing i got the Samsung panel so im pretty happy with it.

I did go into the Service menu, but the panel info is no longer there. While in the service menu, i accidentally changed the Panel Channel No. so it no longer says "O".. What is the panel channel number anyway? Should i set it back to zero or does it even make a difference?

Well im going to play around with it a bit more, and use the color settings that Eric54 suggested earlier in the thread. Anybody other suggestions to make this panel better than it already is?

Thanks for the help.
July 1, 2007 9:16:42 PM

I managed to change my panel channell no as well and have not been able to change it back so far. Actually I forgot about it till now that you reminded me.

I suggest checking the panel out for any dead pixels by using a program like DeadPixelBuddy and there are a few preset color schemes avaailable for you to try out from BE Hardware as well as links Eric posted I think. I have created one custom setting for myself using the tool Eric posted but usually kep it on dynamic contrast.
July 2, 2007 8:00:00 AM

Hey Silent,
Thanks for the suggestions, i just used the dead pixel buddy and works good. Can you post your color settings? I just used Eric's color settings but it seems a bit dark.

Can anyone else post your settings? Thanks.
July 2, 2007 9:48:21 PM

I am using DVI link and dynamic contrast so colour settings are not available however for ICC profile I am using a file called 226BW(digital)-factory-R51-G47-b50.

I also have another profile called SM226BW but I dont know the values for RGB on that one.

Hve you got these? If not I can send.
July 2, 2007 10:26:58 PM

Could you guys tell me what Model Code your 226BWs are? I was just at best buy and they had 2 which said LS22MEWSFV/XAA and MADE IN CHINA and one that was LS22MEWSFJ/XAA and MADE IN MEXICO on the sales floor. The display model was a "C" and LS22MEWSFV/XAA. A google search for the mexico code got no results.

The model code is either on a sticker on the box or on the back of the monitor.

Thanks guys!
July 3, 2007 3:11:27 AM

Quote:
I am using DVI link and dynamic contrast so colour settings are not available however for ICC profile I am using a file called 226BW(digital)-factory-R51-G47-b50.

I also have another profile called SM226BW but I dont know the values for RGB on that one.

Hve you got these? If not I can send.


I dont have the ICC program, but i will DL it and try out that profile, thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.
July 3, 2007 3:12:16 AM

Quote:
Could you guys tell me what Model Code your 226BWs are? I was just at best buy and they had 2 which said LS22MEWSFV/XAA and MADE IN CHINA and one that was LS22MEWSFJ/XAA and MADE IN MEXICO on the sales floor. The display model was a "C" and LS22MEWSFV/XAA. A google search for the mexico code got no results.

The model code is either on a sticker on the box or on the back of the monitor.

Thanks guys!


I got the 226BW S without the [R], and its manufactured in tianjian, china.
July 3, 2007 3:52:22 AM

Quote:
Could you guys tell me what Model Code your 226BWs are? I was just at best buy and they had 2 which said LS22MEWSFV/XAA and MADE IN CHINA and one that was LS22MEWSFJ/XAA and MADE IN MEXICO on the sales floor. The display model was a "C" and LS22MEWSFV/XAA. A google search for the mexico code got no results.

The model code is either on a sticker on the box or on the back of the monitor.

Thanks guys!


I got the 226BW S without the [R], and its manufactured in tianjian, china.

Do you have one of those two model codes listed in my original message?
August 15, 2007 5:12:03 PM

Can anyone help me find out what type of panel I have for my 204BW? (Just got it a week ago one Newegg)

Model Code: LS20hAWCN7/XAA

Type No. GH20WS

no "s" or "a" for that matter, or "c"....
August 15, 2007 10:32:07 PM

crazyfreakid said:
Could you guys tell me what Model Code your 226BWs are? I was just at best buy and they had 2 which said LS22MEWSFV/XAA and MADE IN CHINA and one that was LS22MEWSFJ/XAA and MADE IN MEXICO on the sales floor. The display model was a "C" and LS22MEWSFV/XAA. A google search for the mexico code got no results.

The model code is either on a sticker on the box or on the back of the monitor.

Thanks guys!


FYI: The Made in Tijuana, Mexico (SAMEX) versions that are now becoming the predominant panel available should be 100% Samsung. The SAMEX plant in Mexico is a Samsung plant (SAMEX = Samsung Mexicana).
August 16, 2007 12:39:32 AM

I just received a 226BW from Amazon LS22MEWSFV/XAA Made in Tianjin, China......Which display model would this be...there is no S, A, or C anywhere

Thanks
Tearflop
August 18, 2007 3:43:16 AM

I checked this model out further and confirmed that I got an S panel.

Tearflop
August 19, 2007 9:10:22 PM


Hi
Can any of you advise.

I picked up a 226BW yesterday. It's made in Slovakia but doesn't have any panel ID on the back. Only a [R]

My question is this..
I notice a distinct change in brightness level from the top to the bottom of the screen. For example if I display a photo and look at the centre of the screen from about 30cm away, the top of the screen is quite dark to the point where the photo looks dull at the top. However if I raise my head so eye level is at the top of the screen, the photo looks fine at the top but too bright at the bottom.
I've tried altering brightness and contrast but no difference to the problem. Is this normal or a faulty monitor?

Just looking at this > http://www.stoletje.com/monitor/color.gif and nodding my head, the brightness on the colour bars changes quite severely.

Can anyone advise??

The monitor looks awesome for games but I also bought it for a lot of photoshopping, and the colour/brightness problem is worrying.
a b Ô Samsung
August 20, 2007 3:20:10 AM

philameena said:

I notice a distinct change in brightness level from the top to the bottom of the screen. For example if I display a photo and look at the centre of the screen from about 30cm away, the top of the screen is quite dark to the point where the photo looks dull at the top. However if I raise my head so eye level is at the top of the screen, the photo looks fine at the top but too bright at the bottom.
I've tried altering brightness and contrast but no difference to the problem. Is this normal or a faulty monitor?



What you are describing is typical of 6-bit TN panels. All 22" LCD monitors use this type of inexpensive and inferior panel. Other panels used by LCD monitors are P-MVA, S-PVA and the more expensive S-IPS panels which are all 8-bit panels which can produce the full 16.7 million colors. These technologies are more expensive then TN panels, and because they can accurately produce 16.7 million colors, they also have slightly slower response times.

6-bit TN panels do not produce 16.7 million colors, that actually produce only 262k. Thru a process called dithering, the colors are blended together to come up with the remaining 16 million. This causes inaccurate colors, and is the reason why brightness on the color bars changes quite severely.

TN panels have narrower viewing angles compared to the three other panel technologies that I mentioned before (P-MVA/S-PVA/S-IPS). This is the cause of your problem.

If you do not want to see these type of distortions, then you need to get a P-MVA or S-PVA (S-IPS may be too rich for your blood). You can drop down to a 20" widescreen that uses P-MVA/S-PVA, but plenty of them use TN panels. Or you can step up to a 24" LCD monitor.

All 24" LCD monitors all used to use one of the three 8-bit panel techs I mentioned before, but 6-bit TN panels recently invaded the 24" family. The two 24" 6-bit TN monitors that I know of are:

1. Acer AL2416WBsd
2. SAMSUNG 245BW

August 20, 2007 10:49:02 AM


Nah.. I'm convinced it's either faulty, or a really rubbish monitor (and reviews say thats not the case)

I got a brightness test card on and a second opinion.

With grey contrast bars down the screen, theres a complete level of grey that is visible at the bottom of the screen and not at the top.
With a magenta screen, it's dark dark magenta at the top and bright pink at the bottom.

The only way to see a consistantly bright image is to stand up and look down on the screen at an angle of about 45 degrees. Its as if the backlight is angled incorrectly.

I'm gonna take it back and try to get a refund. The cheapo budget Medion TFT it replaces gives a far more consistant image. :( 
September 11, 2007 1:41:21 AM

Hello,

has someone tried to connect a DVD-standalone-player with and HDMI-DVI cable to this monitor?
If someone has tried this setup could please let me know?
Thanks,

themast
September 25, 2007 3:20:59 AM

Bigplanet said:
FYI: The Made in Tijuana, Mexico (SAMEX) versions that are now becoming the predominant panel available should be 100% Samsung. The SAMEX plant in Mexico is a Samsung plant (SAMEX = Samsung Mexicana).


Actually i got Made in Tijuana, Mexico (SAMEX) versions manufactured in Aug 2007, and it was C panel, which of course has terrible color, bleeding and ghost.

I read this website and opened my panel.
http://www.bcchardware.com/index.php?option=com_content...

model# found on the back of LCD was "M220Z1 Rev.C1."

Be careful, panels from SAMEX can be C panel.
September 25, 2007 3:21:42 AM

Bigplanet said:
FYI: The Made in Tijuana, Mexico (SAMEX) versions that are now becoming the predominant panel available should be 100% Samsung. The SAMEX plant in Mexico is a Samsung plant (SAMEX = Samsung Mexicana).


Actually i got Made in Tijuana, Mexico (SAMEX) versions manufactured in Aug 2007, and it was C panel, which of course has terrible color, bleeding and ghost.

I read this website and opened my panel.
http://www.bcchardware.com/index.php?option=com_content...

model# found on the back of LCD was "M220Z1 Rev.C1."

Be careful, panels from SAMEX can be C panel.
a b Ô Samsung
September 25, 2007 3:52:06 AM

gusty1 said:

Be careful, panels from SAMEX can be C panel.


The reason is because we are in a global economy where parts gets shipped all over the world. While Samsung may have a plant in Mexico, many of those 22" S panels are coming off the production line to fulfill supply contracts. Any remaining S panels will be used to build the 226BW, however if there is a shortfall of S panels, then Samsung will simply place an order with AUO, CMO, or CPT for their own 22" TN panels to be placed into the 226BW built in Mexico.

Unfortunately, many people simply assume all LCD monitors coming out of Korea, Mexico and Slovakia (??) are all built around the S panel. I wrote about this in another thread maybe about two weeks ago.

In fact here is the thread:

How do you tell between Samsung LCD Panels?
November 17, 2007 4:32:25 PM

I just got a 226BW from Newegg. Model is LS22MEHSFV/XAA. Made is Tianjin, China. No dead pixels. My panel is definitely blue. I had to take the blue down to 21 just to get it to look decent. Red and green are still at 50. Boy, is this thing bright! Had to bring brightness down to 12 so I didn't get a tan.

Found an interesting thing on Samsung site. Looks like there a few BW models and only one CW model. Anyone want to fill in the other models?

226BW
LS22MEHSFJ/XAA
LS22MEHSFV/XAA - Tianjin, Blue
LS22MEWSFJ/XAA
LS22MEWSFV/DZS
LS22MEWSFV/XAA

226CW
LS22MEXSFV/XXA
!