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mitsubishi ws-65809 distorted picture

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May 7, 2008 3:57:56 AM

I have an 8 year old Mitsubishi WS-65809 HDTV. Over the past few weeks when the set is initially turned on, the picture is distorted. The picture curves down at the top and up at the bottom and the color away from the center is rainbowed. Earlier it didn't take much time before the picture went back to normal and stayed. Now it takes much longer before returning to normal.

Are the rear projection bulbs finally going out? Or is it something else. The manual didn't offer any help in the very brief troubleshooting page.

I appreciate anyone's help.

Thanks,
Eric
June 5, 2008 11:56:28 AM

I have the EXACT same problem with mine. Mine is also about 8 years old, but my problems started about two years ago. It would be periodic, maybe once a month at first, but it's slowly progressed to an everyday event.

What did you do to resolve this? Anything?
June 6, 2008 10:48:23 PM

I haven't done anything yet. NOBODY from this forum answered except you. So I looked for other forums and found one called Fix-it Ya. Here is what they say, and I probably will try their suggestions soon.

The problem could most likely be with the set's STK ICs. The soldering comes loose, sometimes actually coming loose INSIDE the IC, where it solders in there! Heat/cold over and over translates into expand/contract over and over.

Just resoldering the legs usually does the trick, but if you have continued to use your set while hurt, the ICs may eventually go out completely and need replacement. Resoldering them in before that time usually saves the ICs and never needs to be done again.

I then asked what do theylook like and here is the response:

There will be either one or two of them, and they will be heavily heat sunk - as in mounted on a big heat sink, with vertical fins. That's all I can say without seeing the unit in front of me, open. They usually face towards the front, are in the middle of the middle board, and the name of the ICs is covered by a screw-on plate, which has to be removed for replacement.
Be generous with the heat sink compound when replacing the ICs, get the old stuff off the heat sink with a putty knife if it has dried out.

To check whether you need to replace the ICs or not, with the unit on if you tap on the heat sink with something long and not conductive, like a stick, and it affects your conv - be VERY careful, this has to be done while the unit is on - you can probably get by with just resoldering the legs. If not and it just won't converge, IC replacement will be necessary. I recommend replacing both if you replace one, because next week the other one may go out and you may have to get in and out of the unit all over again.

Best way is usually to remove the entire light box, tho sometimes it's best to remove just the board, other times you can prop the whole board up and do the resoldering on your back.

The name of the STK ICs is STK392-570. You can Go to a website "bluestar-online.com" and find them for sale.

Hope this helps. It sure would have been nice if other people replied.

Related resources
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June 9, 2008 12:13:50 PM

Thanks for the reply. I have been disappointed with information regarding this issue, too.

I believe I found a picture of the IC we're looking for on the board:



I'm not 100% positive, but it does say STK392-570 on it, so it's likely a match.

From the info you are getting, and from what I have read, it sounds like the ideal situation is to remove the IC, put a thin layer of heat sink goo on it and put it back in place. Solder from the back side of the board.

I'm going to take the TV apart this week and see what I can do. If I have any luck I'll let you know.

On a side note, I turned my TV on this weekend first thing in the morning both days and the TV was fine all day. I left the TV on most of the day just to avoid the convergence problems later in the day. Not really the best thing in terms of energy usage, but it's super frustrating trying to watch TV when you feel like you are crosseyed.
June 9, 2008 2:32:22 PM

Yes, those are the one's I believe we are having trouble with. And yes, it looks like the best thing to do is crack open the TV, maybe do the tap test, and replace them with a new squirt of thermal paste. I may even have some time when I get home tonight to try the tap test.

I'll probably order the two IC's. I have some thermal paste "Artic Silver 5" from building a computer. Do you think that stuff will work?

My TV is similar to yours. Turn it on most of the time and convergence issue. But this morning there wasn't...

Good luck and keep in touch on troubleshooting results.
June 9, 2008 2:47:30 PM

I am hoping I don't need to order any new ICs.... When the picture is good everything looks great. I'll order them if this doesn't work I guess.

As for the thermal paste, that should be sufficient. Operating temperatures of a computer chip usually run higher than the TV's chip.

Let me know how your test goes! I'll be sure to post any updates from my end as well.
July 2, 2008 1:54:05 PM

Did you ever get around to testing this?
July 2, 2008 3:25:04 PM

Yes I did. Once I found someone to tell me exactly where the ICs where hiding. For my WS-65809 unit, the IC's are hiding under a large passive thermal radiator (Looks like corregated metal) in the middle board. I pushed on the fin and I could see the picture from behind go normal. It stays that way until I turn the unit off for a period of time. Once I turn back on, most often it goes back to the concave look. Now the issue is how to get to these IC's and solder them down. Obviously they are loose. However, the middle board seems to be connected to the right AND left board with some sort of bridge thing (Four of them actually). This bridge doesn't look too easy to remove. If I can remove them, then the middle board should be removable by taking out a few screws and lifting up.

Do you have a similar unit? Is your middle board connected to the others via these bridges?

So far I've been keeping the back panel loose and pulling out the unit, going to the back, pushing on the fin, and watching my shows. Not sure when I'll get the guts and time to try and remove that middle board and solder the ICs.
July 2, 2008 3:33:13 PM

Thanks for the update.

I haven't opened mine up yet. Basically how I have everything set up it's a major pain to do what you described and pull it out, push it back in, watch shows and do it all again the next day. I was also on vacation for a week and some change, so I haven't been around.

My wife is a bit hesitant for me to open it open and start poking around. She doesn't want me to kill the set without a backup plan in place. So I am currently scouting a new TV in case I kill the mitsubishi in the process. Best case scenario, I won't need to buy anything.

I will try opening it up tonight and pushing on the metal fin. Where are you opening it up at? Can you provide a picture or anything so I can verify what I am seeing?

Also, I will take a picture tonight, assuming I open up the right place, so you can see if I have those bridges or not. I am guessing I will, we bought our TVs around the same time period and have the same model number.

I am just getting fed up and have to do something because I hate watching TV or playing video games now because it's a constant source of stress ;) 

I'll reply back later.
July 2, 2008 5:45:08 PM

It is really easy to open the back TAN COLORED panel. There are a few black screws on the left and right sides and some BRASS colored screws on the bottom. Remove all the bottom ones that are attached to the tan panel. I then leave the top right and top left black screws for last. Remove those last two and the board slides down a bit and pulls out. I actualy left the wiring and all intack. The panel has a square hole to the bottom left that a bunch of the cables go through. I simply pull the panel out and slide to the right to gain access to the back and the circuit boards.

The silver fin is toward the back on the middle circuit board. Really big, can't miss it. I have actually been able to touch the fin with my fingers and push on it to get the picture to normal.

I have a picture, but I don't know how to put a picture in this forum. Do you?

July 2, 2008 5:50:57 PM

Thanks for the info. I will try tonight.

Yes, you can post a picture if you click on post reply, instead of quick reply. Then there is an editor with a toolbar, click on the eyeball looking thing and you can post the image. But it looks like you can only link to an existing image, not upload one.... so if it's an image online somewhere, you can link to ti.

Otherwise message me and I'll give you my e-mail.
July 3, 2008 12:25:00 PM

Last night I went home, removed the back panel, found the heat sync fin and pressed on it, wiggled it around etc and found the sweet spot. Once I found the sweet spot I put the panel back on and it worked for the remainder of the night. So it definitely sounds like we have the same issue here.

I've included the link to the pictures I took for you, for comparison purposes. I included the right and left sides of the main board, which is what I believe you were talking about yesterday. I hope I snapped a picture of the right spots.

http://www.tekn0wledg.com/Images/TV-Back1.jpg
http://www.tekn0wledg.com/Images/TV-Back2.jpg
http://www.tekn0wledg.com/Images/TV-HeatSync.jpg
http://www.tekn0wledg.com/Images/TV-Leftside.jpg
http://www.tekn0wledg.com/Images/TV-Rightside.jpg

Now I guess the question is.... how do we get the board out, and how do we snap off the heat sync fin?

Where did you purchase your ICs from? I'd like to order mine soon and give it a try.... my TV is beyond the point of tolerating.... it's either buy a new one, or fix it. Though at least I have a nightly workaround in the meanwhile, assuming that pressing on the fin works everytime.
July 3, 2008 3:14:58 PM

Yes, it looks like we have the same unit and the same issue. I have not purchased the IC's yet. I didn't because I don't think they need to be replaced becaus eof the fact we can push on the fin and get the picture correct. According to the repair guys I have talked to in a forum called "FixYa", they say all you need to do is solder the ICs back down to the board.

So, like you say, how do you get the board out and either take the fin off or solder the under side of the board where the ICs connect. This could be tricky.

Just looking at the middle board, I see screws holding it in. However, those white colored "bridges" as I call them are what scare me. My worry is how can we disconnect them. I think I will go back to FixYa and see if they will help me. The repair experts were nice at first, but they seemed to be getting annoyed that I wanted to fix this myself as appose to calling a fellow repair guy.

One cheap thing I may do is to take a dowel rod (wood stick) and attach it to the big flat wood part where the lights are. I'd make it the correct length and put the other end on the fin, thus pressing it down.

Here is a pic that shows the left board and part of center board with fin. Also shows one of the bridges I'm talking about.

http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/nn348/E-dog2008/Elec...
July 3, 2008 3:27:41 PM

Gotcha, thanks for posting the picture; that helps.

I thought about doing what you said as well, creating some type of pressure on the fin.... However, I wonder if the point of pressure changes, or if it's constant after each power-off of the TV? If it's constant, that's great, it's a good work around that gives us some more time.

My only concern is heat on a piece of wood coming off the fin.... I guess it doesn't get too hot if we're able to touch it with our hands.

I will be out of town for the holiday weekend, but I may have some time to play around with this tonight. Worst case, I will look at it on Monday.

Thanks again for your ongoing commentary.... I'm just glad I was finally able to find someone else with the same problem as me.

Edit: Tonight I will try creating some type of rod to hold the fin down. If I am successful, I will post pictures for you next week.
July 19, 2008 6:01:13 AM

Thank u two the both of you i also have been suffering with the same problem that you have encountered with your sets

I’m thinking when i moved my set that this is where my troubles began

Thank you once again for all your help I’m going to open my set up tomorrow
August 3, 2008 12:37:52 AM

Not sure if either of you got this fixed, but I had the same issue and it cost me $400 to get it fixed from a local repair company.

Now I am having issues with certain colors looking grainy such as tans and whites. Not all the time, but some times. Have either of you had any issues with this?

Thanks,
Joe
August 4, 2008 2:16:31 AM

I'm working on a poor man's fix. I've noticed that I can press down on the heat sink fin and get the problem to go away. So, I'm working on just how to rig up a piece of wood that will be wedged on top of the heatsink fins and glued to the sloped wood frame above. Haven't done it yet, but when I do I'll send pics.

Not sure why you are having other issues. Except that I noticed in order to get the board out there appears to be several connections that need disconnecting and I was afraid of just such issues screwing something else up.

Eric
September 26, 2008 2:51:30 PM

I am new to this site but have been following the posts regarding the picture distortion. Count me in as another victim. I am not as adventurous as you all and would like to get this problem fixed by someone more qualified than me. Anyone have an approx. cost figure if in fact it is the IC / soldering issue or replacement of the IC's? Had to watch USC loose with a concave picture. It was even uglier.
September 26, 2008 3:30:32 PM

jdhansen1 wrote:
Not sure if either of you got this fixed, but I had the same issue and it cost me $400 to get it fixed from a local repair company.

Now I am having issues with certain colors looking grainy such as tans and whites. Not all the time, but some times. Have either of you had any issues with this?

Thanks,
Joe
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Not sure how people insert previous quotes, but I copy/pasted the above post from jdhansen1. In this thread he has been the only one who has mentioned a repair cost. As you can see he spent $400. However he also says he has other issues now (grainy). I'm not sure what his technician did, but when I look at the board, there seems to be lots of connections that have to be disconnected just to get the board out for soldering. To me this leaves a lot of risk for damage to other components. Maybe that's what happened and he has grainy problem now.

I still haven't gotten around to making a rod or something that will put pressure on the heat sink fins and the ICs. But it really isn't that hard to open the back and find the fins and press down on it. The hardest part is slowly rolling over tile floor the set back into the entertainment center hole without bumping so much that it reverts back to the distorted picture.

Edog
September 26, 2008 10:16:35 PM

Thanks for the info
October 7, 2008 5:29:13 PM

I too am having the same problem and rather than paying $400 to have it repaired, I'm going to attempt it myself. My wife has been on me about it, and we both know we can't afford to get a new one of the same size or even comparable. I'll try the fin tap first and I think I may try separating the "bridge" as well if I'm feeling daring.

thanks for all the posts and info. I will keep you posted on my progress as well.

-Corey
October 7, 2008 7:53:25 PM

pushing the fin down worked for me too to fix the picture for the night. Turning off and back on again, the picture remains correct. I'm assuming that the picture will be distorted again in the morning, but at least I have a temporary fix. Thanks again guys! :) 
October 7, 2008 9:42:31 PM

For whatever reason, if the set doesn't get bumped after you push the fin and get a good picture, it will stay that way. But it is hit or miss for me whenever I turn the set back on after a fairly long period off.

Still contemplating some sort of dowel rod wedged between the fin and bulb holder to maintain pressure on the fin.
October 9, 2008 1:21:00 PM

Mine lasted for 2 days, but then this morning it was back to the distorted picture. I'll have to move it away from the wall again tonight after work
to fix it again.
October 12, 2008 12:23:08 AM

my roommate and I had the same problem. I appreciate all the suggestions. We left the back panel off and put a piece of wood between the wall and the fin. That seems to work temporarily. Let me know if the dowel between the lights and the fin works. Thanks again guys.
Anonymous
November 9, 2008 3:43:35 PM

Hi Guys... new to the forum. I have the same set and SAME PROBLEMS!!! Got the set for free from my bro so can't complain too much. When he gave it to me told me of the problem and said if you hit the set on top center it clears up... and it does!!! but am looking for something of a bit more technical fix....
Also... just bought an x box and I can run it on standard screen. Tried to run it on 1080 but the picture is GREEN... you can see it, but everything has a green tint. So then I hooked up at 480 and it worked fine for weeks. Took the x box to a friends house last night and came back this morning to hook it up and now none of the HD inputs are working... very frustrating.
Any ideas why it would be green on 1080 or why my inputs aren't working now. Don't think it s the xbox, its brand new.
Thanks guys
November 10, 2008 3:39:42 PM

I can only talk to your first issue on the WS-65809 issue. The distorted picture is due to one or more Integrated Circuits (ICs) coming loose from the circuit board (That is why banging on the top works temporarily). They are located under a heat sink "Fin" on the center board shown in these pictures.
http://i320.photobucket.com/albums [...] eftMod.jpg
http://www.tekn0wledg.com/Images/TV-HeatSync.jpg

I am told that if you solder the ICs back to the board then the problem goes away. HOWEVER, when I look back there it is easier said than done. Unless you can solder them WITHOUT taking the board out, it looks to be a real pain in the ars. What worries me is the apparent bridge between circuit boards.

What I plan to do, if I can ever get the time, is to simply place a wooden dowel rod on top of the fin and attach it to the wooden light holder with some small amount of pressure loading. I'm hoping this can be my poor man's fix. The fin doesn't get hot (I push down on it for my temporary fix each time) so there shouldn't be a fire hazard.

Hope this helps.
November 13, 2008 11:32:10 PM

I have the same tv and same problem as well! Sometimes I can get half way through a movie and the convergence will go away! I bought my 65809 for $300 on E-bay and am all about the cheap way of doing everything. I called just to get an estimate on how much it would cost to get fixed and it was around 480$ here in NC,,

I am trying to get bold eneough to crack er' open and try to find the fin and the ic's you guys been mentioning above!

I appreciate all the advice listed above! All was helpful so far! Keep posting if anyone finally finds the "CHEAP MANS FIX"

THANX
November 14, 2008 3:13:35 PM

I DID IT!!!!!

The cheap man's fix. I don't have the pics here, but when I get home tonight I'll send them along with a description of what I did. Basically cut a piece of dowel just a tad longer than the distance from the fin to the board above it. (You'll have to wait and see the pics (Sorry). I had to use my staple gun to fix the board because it is designed to slide out. (Also have pics of this). One could probably use wood glue, let it dry then place the dowel rod. Sorry to leave you folks hanging, but will get my pics loaded tonight.
November 14, 2008 4:34:06 PM

Sounds good!!! I think im going to follow your pics and try to do the same thing! I just shipped my tv to my new address in the midwest so wont have time to do it until mid December when i get there! Thanx again for all the help guys! Looking forward to seeing those pics on your idea!!!
December 3, 2008 8:30:07 PM

How are those pics coming along? I'm still interested to see what you've come up with. I look forward to them.
December 4, 2008 3:27:46 PM

I took the pics. Just need to download to PhotoBucket and link them here. Things got a little crazy for me over the past month right after I did the fix. I will definately try and get the photos uploaded soon.

Sorry for the delay.
December 5, 2008 3:55:58 AM

I GOT THE PICS OF THE FIX ;) 
Parts = One 3/8 inch wood dowell rod ($0.99 at local hardware store)

Tools = Mitre saw, air compressor, and staple gun.

Time = ~15 minutes

Results = No distorted picture (PRICELESS!!!)


Here is a non-zoomed view from back - http://s320.photobucket.com/albums/nn348/E-dog2008/Elec...

Here is a closer look - http://s320.photobucket.com/albums/nn348/E-dog2008/Elec...

Here is a view a little from side - http://s320.photobucket.com/albums/nn348/E-dog2008/Elec...

I used my nail/staple gun to staple the thin board to the slotted piece on both the left and right sides:
Left - http://s320.photobucket.com/albums/nn348/E-dog2008/Elec...
Right - http://s320.photobucket.com/albums/nn348/E-dog2008/Elec...

First I noticed the thin board had a nice piece of wood spanning all away across it in the middle for support. I figure I could put an angled piece of dowel rod there and wedge it on top of the heat sink fin. This board however slides out easily. So I had to staple it on both sides (See pics). I used my handy compressor and staple gun for that. You could probably put wood or Gorilla glue in the slots on both sides if you don't have a nail gun. If you glue it, make sure you wait until it is fully dried (~24 hours) before wedging the dowell.

I started with a piece of dowell ~11 inches long with one end cut at about 45 degree angle. 11 inches was a little too long, but it was difficult to get an accurate measurement between the heat sink and board. I then did a test fit and naturally it was too long. A few trips back and forth to the mitre saw and whittle the rod down to about 10 3/4 inches.

WARNING: Your length may vary from mine.

Try to measure best you can and make first angled cut long, then whittle down the flat cut until desired legth. You want it to be a little long so that some pressure will be constantly applied to the heat sink fins and the ICs.

Good luck folks,

Edog
December 10, 2008 6:25:49 PM

Thank you very much...those pics were very helpful :) 
Anonymous
December 16, 2008 9:36:39 PM

I had same problem and posts were helpfull but to much work for me. PC Richards charged $80 to look at TV and immediately determined IC's needed to be replaced, they charged me $76 for (2) IC's and $200 for labor to replace (Tech took approx 45minutes), total was $299.80 with tax (I live in NY). Problen resolved and picturelooks great!
December 23, 2008 10:56:42 PM

edog2008 said:
I GOT THE PICS OF THE FIX ;) 
Parts = One 3/8 inch wood dowell rod ($0.99 at local hardware store)

Tools = Mitre saw, air compressor, and staple gun. Hammer, staples, glue, duct tape.

Time = ~15 minutes ~35 minutes

Results = No distorted picture (PRICELESS!!!)

Edog



Thanks for the info and pics!!!!!! 3 hours so far and lookin' good. Glue and duct tape were for the support wood I cracked.

Saved a bunch from calling a repair guy.
January 6, 2009 8:11:16 PM

I started watching you guys' posts on this subject about a month ago.

I finally decided that I wanted to look into fixing my $4000 investment on my own. I just can't see spending $400 on a repair job when I can buy a new 42" HDTV for $650 (OK, it'll probably be offbrand, but hey, Mitsubishi ain't exactly cream of the crop).

So, I stopped using this TV 12 months ago, but I don't want to trash it. Anyway, I just turned on the TV and ALL OF THE BLUE data is out of convergence.

I tried pressing on the large heat sink...but no change...and I don't even see the ICs mentioned above.

I don't mind trying to get to the ICs if I can so that I can replace them (or at lease try to).

Do you guys know where those things are?

DKA
January 6, 2009 8:24:32 PM

I'm not 100% sure, but our issue wasn't BLUE DATA OUT OF CONVERGENCE. For my set, the entire picture had a convex look to it that distorted ALL the colors. Kinda like the shape of an hour glass on it's side.

Anyway, the IC's are actually located underneath the heat sink fin. Thats why for me when I push down on the heat sink fin, it corrects the problem. You can't see the IC's because the fin is in the way.

Matbe your's is a different issue and related to different IC's???

Edog
January 6, 2009 9:27:42 PM

Well, let me update what just happened. Since the BLUE convergence was out all over the TV, used the convergence tool to adjust the blue... while doing that, I noticed that the picture was no longer bowed.

Maybe pressing on the heat sink fixed the bowing.

I closed the TV up and I'll keep an eye on it. I need to take my cable box to the basement and give it an acid test (1080i).

DKA
January 31, 2009 2:30:36 AM

I have never repaired a TV before but have a good grasp of logic and was able to repair my 65".

The correction isn't that difficult. I removed all of the visible screws on the board which are about eleven. The bridges (White connection connecting boards) will pop up (I used a small cresent wrench) with a small amout of pressure (use an object that will allow you to pry it with out agressive force but try not to touch much). You will have to disconnect Six connections in order to allow you slack to pull out the cabnet. Once you've pulled out the cabnet enough to unscrew the scews in the front corners and front of IC Heat Sinc bracket (three screws holding ICs to Heat Sinc and three on the board between the ICs) you will be able to release the the board and lift up out of the cabnet. The reason I say its easy is because on the solder side of the board I found only one pin broken from the solder, I did find others that may require attention soon so I resoldered them as well. I put the board back reconnected everything (except the heat sinc) tested and the picture was damm great. After a moment I disconnected verything once again and added the coolant compound (removed old and added new (got from Radio Shack $7)) reconnected everything closed up the set and reconfigured the convergence.

The process (if focused) should take arround an hour and a half the results will be great.

I would recommend buying the Service Manual.

servicemanual.net

This will help for other case senarios in efficient troubleshooting needs. You could also buy the ICs

http://www.bluestar-online.com/STK392_570_p/stk392-570....

if you noice they are too damaged or prefer to do the job right the first time.


P.S. Please read all of the thread, this thread was very helpful in viewing the pictures of where the ICs are located. What happend to tekn0wledg? If any other questions feel free to ask.

Thanks for your help Edog2008 and tekn0wledg.
May 17, 2009 8:02:35 AM

First off, Thank you to all of you for inspiring me to do something that I have been putting off. Now that it's done it was quite easy and I wish I'd done it long ago.

I'm writing this from memory as I preformed this project earlier. I wish I had taken pictures for everyone but it's really not that hard.

== == == == ==

1. Unplug the power going to the TV.

2. Remove all the screws holding the perfboard backing (brown portion on back of tv) (About 14 total screws. 8 black and 6 brass)

3. Remove the angled board just above the 3 circuit boards. This can be removed by simply sliding it out.

4. Remove the plastic cover located between the projector lenses and the circuit boards. (2 screws)

5. Remove all visible screws holding CENTER BOARD (about 12). NOTE: There are 3 screws holding a cross member on the back of the large heat sink in the middle of the board. You have to remove those before you can get to the 3 screws holding the heat sink. This LARGE heat sink is where your two ICS chips are located.

6. Remove the small (about 5) white ribbon connectors connecting the center board to the left and right boards. This are removed by forcibly popping them up. I used a pair of needle nose pliers on one end prying it up.

NOTE: For the following description, front means towards the front of the TV, and rear means towards the rear of the TV.

6. Remove all electrical connections from the CENTER BOARD (they just pull out by hand with a little wiggle) and remember which go where. (1 near the right/rear "closest to you", 2 near the left/front and 4 near the center/right front.

7. Using your thumbs, press the 2 small black clips near the front of the board and lift the board up with your fingers. It lifts very easily and if it doesn't, then you've missed a screw or two somewhere.

8. Hold the board upside down and gently wiggle the ICS chips individually. If you can see any movement of the pins on that ICS, then you need to re-solder those pins. (On my TV I soldered all pins on 1 ICS and didn't have to touch the other)

9. Replace all parts in reverse order.

10. Enjoy you new improved screen!

If you get really ambitious, this would be a great time to use a little windex on the Projector lenses and the mirror.

http://hundewanderer.com/2009/05/tv-repair-shepherd.htm...

PJ
Anonymous
October 18, 2009 1:01:32 AM

Thanks so much for all of the posts related to this problem. I read the entire thread to my husband while he located the ICS chips and gave them a poke. Sure enough, the picture straightened out, halalujah! We'll save the soldering project for another day.
Anonymous
October 27, 2009 1:19:24 AM

I had the same problem with the 65" and I did the wood push rod and only 1 screw to hold into place. It is working great know and if I have the problem in the future I know I can fix the IC's. Once I opened the back of the TV and realized it is not so bad to work on.
Thanks for the advice and quick fix with a piece of wood and only 1 screw. I save $400.00 for know and I'm prepared for what I need to do if the problem persists.
Thanks again,
Rob3065
November 29, 2009 10:39:49 PM

I have a WS-65809 and am occasionally seeing the red/green image get out of synch. It usually goes back to normal after 10-30 seconds, but it is annoying. See the picture here:
http://tinyurl.com/ycbeu3l - is this the same problem that you are all having (i.e. convergence / faulty IC's)?
December 30, 2009 3:02:28 PM

I would love to know how long 'the wood dowel' fix lasts? Pls respond.

I had the 2 chips replaced by 'new improved' chips and the 'convergence' redone, lens,
mirror cleaned and voila the picture is better than when new 8 years ago! Total cost $325.
January 1, 2010 8:29:51 PM


We had this problem with our TV. We bougt a kit online and took the board out.... seems real easy now that we have taken out three or four times now.... we did the soldering and put it back together...

It powers on but then clicks right back off....

Any ideas?

Juda
January 10, 2010 4:04:08 AM

Andy99 said:
I have a WS-65809 and am occasionally seeing the red/green image get out of synch. It usually goes back to normal after 10-30 seconds, but it is annoying. See the picture here:
http://tinyurl.com/ycbeu3l - is this the same problem that you are all having (i.e. convergence / faulty IC's)?


Your image is rectangular and fills the screen, and your color convergence problem is even across the entire image, so it looks like a more normal convergence problem. What's described here, which I have (great to have found this page!) is a highly distorted shape to the image, pulling away from the edges at the top and bottom, with worse color convergence at the edges than in the middle.

Thanks for all the information, everyone.
April 28, 2010 2:24:22 AM

Judayork said:
We had this problem with our TV. We bougt a kit online and took the board out.... seems real easy now that we have taken out three or four times now.... we did the soldering and put it back together...

It powers on but then clicks right back off....

Any ideas?

Juda


I have the same issue with the power clicking off. Do you have any info on that?

THanks,

Rez
rez@rezrock.com
May 1, 2010 7:18:46 AM

Quote:
Hi Guys... new to the forum. I have the same set and SAME PROBLEMS!!! Got the set for free from my bro so can't complain too much. When he gave it to me told me of the problem and said if you hit the set on top center it clears up... and it does!!! but am looking for something of a bit more technical fix....
Also... just bought an x box and I can run it on standard screen. Tried to run it on 1080 but the picture is GREEN... you can see it, but everything has a green tint. So then I hooked up at 480 and it worked fine for weeks. Took the x box to a friends house last night and came back this morning to hook it up and now none of the HD inputs are working... very frustrating.
Any ideas why it would be green on 1080 or why my inputs aren't working now. Don't think it s the xbox, its brand new.
Thanks guys


In the Advanced Settings panel, there is a palette setting for the high-def input. Change it to "RGB" and you'll be fine.
Anonymous
July 13, 2010 4:57:45 PM

Just wanted to post a quick thanks to Edog2008. I did his hillbilly fix on my 55809 (I used a pencil cut down to about 4 inches and wedged it between the heat sink and the metal frame lip above it). Works great. I'm pretty sure Edog2008 is really Richard Dean Anderson in disguise.

Thanks again.

DJ LPM
!