Painting Plastic Minis

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

Hi All:
I know this has been asked before but I recently found several hundred plastic
minis that I want to paint for a new project. The question is: what priming
material was released in the past year or so to be used specifically on
plastic? In addition, what type of finish do you use, if any? Sorry to be one
of the noncompis folks but I am old, tired, pitiful,yadda,yadda,yadda....
MTIA.
Jerry

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

Your best "primer" is a detergent wash to get all oils off the stuff.
Depending on the plastic, you don't even need primer in some cases.

Finish is "Varathane" -- accept no substitutes -- most polyurethanes
yellow in a matter of months. Varathane is tough as nails and does not
yellow (if you get the clear satin finish -- DO NOT get the wood finish
products -- these have oils in them.

mjc

MltryHstrn wrote:

> Hi All:
> I know this has been asked before but I recently found several hundred plastic
> minis that I want to paint for a new project. The question is: what priming
> material was released in the past year or so to be used specifically on
> plastic? In addition, what type of finish do you use, if any? Sorry to be one
> of the noncompis folks but I am old, tired, pitiful,yadda,yadda,yadda....
> MTIA.
> Jerry
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

If the satin finish is too shiny -- there are some that think so --
spray it with Testor's dull coat as a final touch.

mjc

Quid Veritas wrote:

> Your best "primer" is a detergent wash to get all oils off the stuff.
> Depending on the plastic, you don't even need primer in some cases.
>
> Finish is "Varathane" -- accept no substitutes -- most polyurethanes
> yellow in a matter of months. Varathane is tough as nails and does not
> yellow (if you get the clear satin finish -- DO NOT get the wood finish
> products -- these have oils in them.
>
> mjc
>
> MltryHstrn wrote:
>
>> Hi All:
>> I know this has been asked before but I recently found several hundred
>> plastic
>> minis that I want to paint for a new project. The question is: what
>> priming
>> material was released in the past year or so to be used specifically on
>> plastic? In addition, what type of finish do you use, if any? Sorry to
>> be one
>> of the noncompis folks but I am old, tired, pitiful,yadda,yadda,yadda....
>> MTIA.
>> Jerry
>>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

>Hi All:
>I know this has been asked before but I recently found several hundred plastic
>minis that I want to paint for a new project. The question is: what priming
>material was released in the past year or so to be used specifically on
>plastic? In addition, what type of finish do you use, if any? Sorry to be one
>of the noncompis folks but I am old, tired, pitiful,yadda,yadda,yadda....
>MTIA.
>Jerry

My personal experience with painting soft plastic figures is not a good
one. But way back when I was a kid, some of my first Napoleonic figures
were the Airfix ones (20mm scale) so there are childhood memories linked
to such figures. However, this has nothing to do with painting them
other than my very first attempts were met with misfortune. What ever
you do don't prime them. This only peals off later. Also, give them a
good wash with hot water and soap. I have good success with using
Pine-Sol and hot water. After washing, if the figures loose their oily
feel and shinny look, then you are on the right track.

Now comes the hard part, painting. I've tried all sorts of paints, and
in time they all seem to flake/chip/peal off the figures. However, one
day I came accross this paint additive while working in an auto body
shop in my teenage years. We used the additive in paints to paint
flexable surfaces on cars and motorbikes. Well, I decided to try this
stuff in some of my hobby paints to see how it will work on soft
plastic figures. I wasn't that surprised, but I discovered it worked
very very well! After the paint dried, it still remained semi-flexable,
and it also looked like it soaked into the plastic a little (but it
really doesn't, just bonds to it better). There are two drawbacks; the
first is that the additive is highly toxic, and the second is that you
need a lic. to purchase the stuff.

Now that doesn't mean there isn't some other sort of additive one can
get from the local hobby or craft store. It's just that I've never try
to find any. Does anyone know more information about such a product?

Also, Krylon now makes a paint just for painting plastics. The
commercial states its better than any other paint on the market as it
actually bonds to the material. However, I don't know if they make it in
bottles. I have seen it at the hardware stores in spray can form, but
never tried to look for it in brush one form. Also, I haven't tried it.
Does anyone know more about this?

-Ray
Author of "Napoleon's Eagles" a free game.
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~trochim/NE/NE.html

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

Try this link:

http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/Ring/8582/index.html

I have followed some of the ideas there with great success, particularly the
undercoating and finishing with PVA glue.


"MltryHstrn" <mltryhstrn@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20041105174452.21623.00000138@mb-m12.aol.com...
> Hi All:
> I know this has been asked before but I recently found several hundred
plastic
> minis that I want to paint for a new project. The question is: what
priming
> material was released in the past year or so to be used specifically on
> plastic? In addition, what type of finish do you use, if any? Sorry to be
one
> of the noncompis folks but I am old, tired, pitiful,yadda,yadda,yadda....
> MTIA.
> Jerry
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

>Your best "primer" is a detergent wash to get all oils off the stuff.
>Depending on the plastic, you don't even need primer in some cases.

I think I once read that a bath in vinegar was effective. Is this true?

>Finish is "Varathane" -- accept no substitutes -- most polyurethanes
>yellow in a matter of months. Varathane is tough as nails and does not
>yellow (if you get the clear satin finish -- DO NOT get the wood finish
>products -- these have oils in them.

Varathane? Where does one find this? Would I know it under any other names?

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

Sam, this is a brand name for a type of polyurethane. Take a look at:

http://www.polyclay.com/flecto.htm

The following claims, based on my experience are true:

Other great things about Varathane--

o The gloss gives a glass-like shine. It brings out the most
in colors and in the pearlescent or "glamour" clays; it is WONDERFUL
with the metallic clays!
o It seals and protects powders and metallic foils (leaf) on
the surface of clay pieces. Also can be used with stamped inks.
o You can mix it with acrylic paints, pigments, or Pearl-Ex
powders to make stains and antiquing finishes (for faux stones, ivory,
also for faux enamels/cloisonne).
o It doesn't smell bad. It's soap and water wash-up for
brushes and dries fast.
o Use a GOOD quality brush and apply to cooled clay, and you
won't get streaks.
o It also has a UV protectant and DOES NOT yellow (my beads
are fine, even after 15 years).
o It works as glue in mosaics. Bryan tiled a guitar this way,
using cane slices. We've used it to apply tiles to furniture. It helps
to apply top coats as well.
o It can be used with paper and other media--cloth can be
saturated and draped, then allowed to harden, and used with polymer clay
sculpture, as a low-weight armature or form, or as decorative
embellishments.


Now this kind of application isn't our military figs but you could
substitue figures for clay above and you'd be getting the same review.

Hope that helps.

mjc

SamVanga wrote:
>>Your best "primer" is a detergent wash to get all oils off the stuff.
>>Depending on the plastic, you don't even need primer in some cases.
>
>
> I think I once read that a bath in vinegar was effective. Is this true?
>
>
>>Finish is "Varathane" -- accept no substitutes -- most polyurethanes
>>yellow in a matter of months. Varathane is tough as nails and does not
>>yellow (if you get the clear satin finish -- DO NOT get the wood finish
>>products -- these have oils in them.
>
>
> Varathane? Where does one find this? Would I know it under any other names?
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

Here's a link to locate a store near you.

http://www.woodanswers.com/RPM_POI.asp?W2B=B21&rcdd2=1

Ya know, I feel like I should be getting a comission from Varathane here.

mjc

SamVanga wrote:

>>Your best "primer" is a detergent wash to get all oils off the stuff.
>>Depending on the plastic, you don't even need primer in some cases.
>
>
> I think I once read that a bath in vinegar was effective. Is this true?
>
>
>>Finish is "Varathane" -- accept no substitutes -- most polyurethanes
>>yellow in a matter of months. Varathane is tough as nails and does not
>>yellow (if you get the clear satin finish -- DO NOT get the wood finish
>>products -- these have oils in them.
>
>
> Varathane? Where does one find this? Would I know it under any other names?
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

Here's a technique I haven't tried but will soon.

http://www.archersminiatures.com/faq.html

We use two part system that was developed by Ron many years ago. It has
worked well in most all applications and leaves no yellowing like some
other top coats. As it is a micro-thin coating, it also protects the
miniature well, better than 2 coats of clear of most other spray coats.
The two sprays that we use are Varathane(Satin), a wood sealing product
found in home improvement stores, and Testors Dul-Cote, found in most
hobby stores.
We spray the Varathane first, then before it dries, we spray the Dul-Cote.
We use Dul-Cote because it gives the miniature the flat look that is
preferred.

mjc



SamVanga wrote:

>>Your best "primer" is a detergent wash to get all oils off the stuff.
>>Depending on the plastic, you don't even need primer in some cases.
>
>
> I think I once read that a bath in vinegar was effective. Is this true?
>
>
>>Finish is "Varathane" -- accept no substitutes -- most polyurethanes
>>yellow in a matter of months. Varathane is tough as nails and does not
>>yellow (if you get the clear satin finish -- DO NOT get the wood finish
>>products -- these have oils in them.
>
>
> Varathane? Where does one find this? Would I know it under any other names?
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

"MltryHstrn" <mltryhstrn@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20041105174452.21623.00000138@mb-m12.aol.com...
> Hi All:
> I know this has been asked before but I recently found several hundred
> plastic
> minis that I want to paint for a new project. The question is: what
> priming
> material was released in the past year or so to be used specifically on
> plastic? In addition, what type of finish do you use, if any? Sorry to be
> one
> of the noncompis folks but I am old, tired, pitiful,yadda,yadda,yadda....
> MTIA.
> Jerry
>

I've heard there's new paint used for painting plastic on cars.

Personally, I soak the figures in hot water + detergent ( i believe washing
up liquid is called "dish soap" in the states ).
I then paint with PVA before undercoating and painting as per lead figures.
The paint seems to stay on OK.


--
Regards,
Andy O'Neill
www.wargamer.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/index.htm
or, for no javascript and a faster load...
www.wargamer.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/sitemap.htm

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

Out from under a rock popped SamVanga and said

>>Your best "primer" is a detergent wash to get all oils off the stuff.
>>Depending on the plastic, you don't even need primer in some cases.
>
> I think I once read that a bath in vinegar was effective. Is this true?

It possibly would be, just as soaking it in alcohol would be, but water and
detergent are far cheaper. What vinegar is good for is cleaning any lead
oxide of metal minis prior to sealing them with a decent metal primer to
prevent further oxidation.

--
rob singers
pull finger to reply
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

"MltryHstrn" <mltryhstrn@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20041105174452.21623.00000138@mb-m12.aol.com...

> I know this has been asked before but I recently found several hundred
> plastic
> minis that I want to paint for a new project. The question is: what
> priming
> material was released in the past year or so to be used specifically on
> plastic? In addition, what type of finish do you use, if any? Sorry to be
> one
> of the noncompis folks but I am old, tired, pitiful,yadda,yadda,yadda....

I have loads of plastic figures, usual procedure these days is:

a) wash & scrub in detergent to get all the mould grease off
b) prime in PVA (White Glue)
c) undercoat in black/white depending on painting style to be adopted
d) paint, wash, drybrush etc etc
e) finish with matt acrylic floor varnish, bit more durable than the spray
stuff which is OK for metals but less so for plastics IMHO.

Mainthings is to watch that the PVA doesn't pool into the detail too much
but you need a decent coat to give the apint something to stick to. You can
just paint onto the bare plastic (I've got old Airfix figs done just like
that), but you risk paint flaking - less of a problem with acrylics compared
to enamels though.

Cheers
Martin

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

"Ray Trochim" <trochim@rintintin.colorado.edu> wrote in message
news:cmiqj2$of6$1@peabody.colorado.edu...
>
> >Hi All:
> >I know this has been asked before but I recently found several hundred
plastic
> >minis that I want to paint for a new project. The question is: what
priming
> >material was released in the past year or so to be used specifically on
> >plastic? In addition, what type of finish do you use, if any? Sorry to be
one
> >of the noncompis folks but I am old, tired, pitiful,yadda,yadda,yadda....
> >MTIA.
> >Jerry
>
> My personal experience with painting soft plastic figures is not a good
> one. But way back when I was a kid, some of my first Napoleonic figures
> were the Airfix ones (20mm scale) so there are childhood memories linked
> to such figures. However, this has nothing to do with painting them
> other than my very first attempts were met with misfortune. What ever
> you do don't prime them. This only peals off later. Also, give them a
> good wash with hot water and soap. I have good success with using
> Pine-Sol and hot water. After washing, if the figures loose their oily
> feel and shinny look, then you are on the right track.
>
> Now comes the hard part, painting. I've tried all sorts of paints, and
> in time they all seem to flake/chip/peal off the figures. However, one
> day I came accross this paint additive while working in an auto body
> shop in my teenage years. We used the additive in paints to paint
> flexable surfaces on cars and motorbikes. Well, I decided to try this
> stuff in some of my hobby paints to see how it will work on soft
> plastic figures. I wasn't that surprised, but I discovered it worked
> very very well! After the paint dried, it still remained semi-flexable,
> and it also looked like it soaked into the plastic a little (but it
> really doesn't, just bonds to it better). There are two drawbacks; the
> first is that the additive is highly toxic, and the second is that you
> need a lic. to purchase the stuff.
>
>
I find artist's acrylic, brushed on staright from the tube, makes an
excellent undercoat.
It sticks to the plastics and is flexible, forming a skin which is good for
further painting.
I'm sure PVA works, too, but I find the paint more controllable.
Paint with acrylics, varnish with polyurethane.

My old plastics painted with enamels flake badly. The acrylic/polyurethane
treated ones don't.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

The new paint that was released is Rustoleum for plastic.

Steve Burt wrote:
> "Ray Trochim" <trochim@rintintin.colorado.edu> wrote in message
> news:cmiqj2$of6$1@peabody.colorado.edu...
>
>>>Hi All:
>>>I know this has been asked before but I recently found several hundred
>
> plastic
>
>>>minis that I want to paint for a new project. The question is: what
>
> priming
>
>>>material was released in the past year or so to be used specifically on
>>>plastic? In addition, what type of finish do you use, if any? Sorry to be
>
> one
>
>>>of the noncompis folks but I am old, tired, pitiful,yadda,yadda,yadda....
>>>MTIA.
>>>Jerry
>>
>>My personal experience with painting soft plastic figures is not a good
>>one. But way back when I was a kid, some of my first Napoleonic figures
>>were the Airfix ones (20mm scale) so there are childhood memories linked
>>to such figures. However, this has nothing to do with painting them
>>other than my very first attempts were met with misfortune. What ever
>>you do don't prime them. This only peals off later. Also, give them a
>>good wash with hot water and soap. I have good success with using
>>Pine-Sol and hot water. After washing, if the figures loose their oily
>>feel and shinny look, then you are on the right track.
>>
>>Now comes the hard part, painting. I've tried all sorts of paints, and
>>in time they all seem to flake/chip/peal off the figures. However, one
>>day I came accross this paint additive while working in an auto body
>>shop in my teenage years. We used the additive in paints to paint
>>flexable surfaces on cars and motorbikes. Well, I decided to try this
>>stuff in some of my hobby paints to see how it will work on soft
>>plastic figures. I wasn't that surprised, but I discovered it worked
>>very very well! After the paint dried, it still remained semi-flexable,
>>and it also looked like it soaked into the plastic a little (but it
>>really doesn't, just bonds to it better). There are two drawbacks; the
>>first is that the additive is highly toxic, and the second is that you
>>need a lic. to purchase the stuff.
>>
>>
>
> I find artist's acrylic, brushed on staright from the tube, makes an
> excellent undercoat.
> It sticks to the plastics and is flexible, forming a skin which is good for
> further painting.
> I'm sure PVA works, too, but I find the paint more controllable.
> Paint with acrylics, varnish with polyurethane.
>
> My old plastics painted with enamels flake badly. The acrylic/polyurethane
> treated ones don't.
>
>