Vallejo Paints, feedback from users.

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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping to get some feedback from advanced painters on the use of
Vallejo paints. How do they compare to Poly-S, Testors, Humbrol, and
other paints. What has your experience been with them in comparison to
these paints. Do they cover well, including over black primer methods
of painting?

Thanks in advance.
 
G

Guest

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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

Ray Trochim wrote:
> I'm hoping to get some feedback from advanced painters on the use of
> Vallejo paints. How do they compare to Poly-S, Testors, Humbrol, and
> other paints. What has your experience been with them in comparison to
> these paints. Do they cover well, including over black primer methods
> of painting?

I find them better than any other paints I have ever used, with the
possible exception of the Foundry paints. They cover very well on a
black undercoat and the also thin very well to use as washes and stains.

Highly recommended!

Cheers

Tony
--
Tony Barr
East Riding Miniatures / Platoon 20
www.eastridingminiatures.co.uk
 
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Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

My only problem is having to shake the bottles (to get the paint to mix
again) before use.
 
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Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

Ray Trochim wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm hoping to get some feedback from advanced painters on the use of
> Vallejo paints. How do they compare to Poly-S, Testors, Humbrol, and
> other paints. What has your experience been with them in comparison to
> these paints. Do they cover well, including over black primer methods
> of painting?
>
> Thanks in advance.

The yellow I have does not cover all that well - takes 4-5 coats. The
Dark Green "melted" when I applied a poly urethane coat -- a very
disappointing mess.

All other colors (to include reds) have performed well -- good coverage
and no problems of any other nature noted.

mjc
 
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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

In article <d0s53b$f54$1@news7.svr.pol.co.uk>,
Justin Taylor <justint@hellou2.*takethisout*fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>My only problem is having to shake the bottles (to get the paint to mix
>again) before use.

Not sure of your prefered method of painting, but I use Humbrol, Testors,
Poly-S and other paints, and for me I always have to shake the bottles
of paint before use. What paints do you use that require no shaking
before use?
 
D

donnie

Distinguished
Mar 3, 2004
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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

On 11 Mar 2005 21:38:18 GMT, trochim@rintintin.colorado.edu (Ray
Trochim) wrote:

>In article <d0s53b$f54$1@news7.svr.pol.co.uk>,
>Justin Taylor <justint@hellou2.*takethisout*fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>>My only problem is having to shake the bottles (to get the paint to mix
>>again) before use.
>
>Not sure of your prefered method of painting, but I use Humbrol, Testors,
>Poly-S and other paints, and for me I always have to shake the bottles
>of paint before use. What paints do you use that require no shaking
>before use?

You're forgetting Justin's an idiot.
 
D

donnie

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Mar 3, 2004
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On 11 Mar 2005 01:03:18 GMT, trochim@rintintin.colorado.edu (Ray
Trochim) wrote:

>
>Hi everyone,
>
>I'm hoping to get some feedback from advanced painters on the use of
>Vallejo paints. How do they compare to Poly-S, Testors, Humbrol, and
>other paints. What has your experience been with them in comparison to
>these paints. Do they cover well, including over black primer methods
>of painting?
>
>Thanks in advance.


If it's any help I used to wholesale these and they sold like hot
cakes. Much later I owned a shop and ran across some paints that had
been left in storage for a bout a year and separated.

I dunked them in warm water for about half and hour, shook 'em and
they were as good as new.

I value them highly.

(Oh, and Mrs Vallejo is a very nice lady !! <g>)
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

Between saving the world and having a spot of tea Donnie said

>>Not sure of your prefered method of painting, but I use Humbrol, Testors,
>>Poly-S and other paints, and for me I always have to shake the bottles
>>of paint before use. What paints do you use that require no shaking
>>before use?
>
> You're forgetting Justin's an idiot.

If Justin wasn't an idiot he would have said that Vallejo paints seem to
require excessive shaking before use. There's very little air gap in the
bottle so there isn't much of a mixing space.

As much as I like Vallejo paints if was to get more I'd also rig up some
form of agitator to shake them. I need to build a better gizmo for my
Hirst Arts mould shaking table anyway.

--
rob singers
pull finger to reply
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
 
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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

"Robert Singers" <rsingers@finger.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9617A8D35CCrsingers@IP-Hidden...
> Between saving the world and having a spot of tea Donnie said
>
> >>Not sure of your prefered method of painting, but I use Humbrol,
Testors,
> >>Poly-S and other paints, and for me I always have to shake the bottles
> >>of paint before use. What paints do you use that require no shaking
> >>before use?
> >
> > You're forgetting Justin's an idiot.
>
> If Justin wasn't an idiot he would have said that Vallejo paints seem to
> require excessive shaking before use. There's very little air gap in the
> bottle so there isn't much of a mixing space.
>
> As much as I like Vallejo paints if was to get more I'd also rig up some
> form of agitator to shake them. I need to build a better gizmo for my
> Hirst Arts mould shaking table anyway.

Try getting one of those foot massagers that lie on the floor and you put
both feet on as it provides a fairly large surface area for contact. The one
I had was great as it had various programs I could use depending on the
state of the material to settle or agitate/get air bubbles out of. It also
doubles nicely as an actual foot massager;) As for a paint shaker a dryer is
great with the heater elements disco'ed and pots in bubblewrap.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

"Justin Taylor" <justint@hellou2.*takethisout*fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:d16a5l$bj5$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk...
> "What paints do you use that require no shaking before use?"

> Coat D'Arms (also sold as the Foundry range)

Colour Party don't need shaking either, nor do most of my Humbrol or GW
paints once they've got a bit of air in them!

Cheers
Martin
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

Between saving the world and having a spot of tea Donovan Borman said

> Try getting one of those foot massagers that lie on the floor and you
> put both feet on as it provides a fairly large surface area for
> contact. The one I had was great as it had various programs I could
> use depending on the state of the material to settle or agitate/get
> air bubbles out of. It also doubles nicely as an actual foot
> massager;)

And you could even give it to your significant other as a present.

Ya think Eric is reading? I see a strip in this one.

--
rob singers
pull finger to reply
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

The reason for the settling is the very fine grind on the pigment, necessary
because of the intended use on tiny figures with much detail. It is this
property that "professional" painters like.

Personally, and to be fair I'm NOT a professional painter, I dislike the
paint. It's too runny for me and while the "hiding" is good the paint
doesn't seem to have sufficient vehicle to resist rubbing or wear. This is
probably why it hides so well, more pigment - more hiding. If you use
Vallejo, be sure to use a matte varnish or coating to protect it.

That said, the colors are pretty much perfect for the modeller, which I'm
not. You will like the paint if you have the skill to control it. Being
old and not particularly steady, with less than perfect vision and no color
sense, I prefer Delta Ceramicoat at 99 cents for a 4.5 ounce bottle. It's a
tougher paint and easier to control the flow on.

A lousy guitar player sounds the same on a $75 guitar as a $7500 instrument.
A genuine master strummer can make that expensive guitar SOUND LIKE a $7500
instrument. Paint is no different.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

Thanks everyone for your input.
As a result of the feedback, I went and got a few of the more difficult
colors to work with (yellow, white, etc.) to check them out. So far,
they seem to be pretty good. The real test will come when I paint a
full unit using these paints. Which is the next phase. The paints are
somewhat pricey though.

-Ray
 
G

Guest

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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

I still insist on humbrol (even after Testors bought them up and got rid
of all the military colors) for its ability to cover. Their White will
cover Black in one coat.

Ray Trochim wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm hoping to get some feedback from advanced painters on the use of
> Vallejo paints. How do they compare to Poly-S, Testors, Humbrol, and
> other paints. What has your experience been with them in comparison to
> these paints. Do they cover well, including over black primer methods
> of painting?
>
> Thanks in advance.
 
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