Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (
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In article <ECmSd.31884$s16.3979@trndny02>, Eric A. Johnson,
vze1mx2h@verizon.net Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
>
> "Myrmidon" <ImNot@home.com> wrote in message
> news:MPG.1c838f4e4fe4fc8d98a48f@news-server.woh.rr.com...
> > In article <c40j11d85jodrn3htbaogr8f733u4p1954@4ax.com>, Scooter, stad13
> > @canada.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
> >> I recently aquired my first 40k Army (well the start of my Space
> >> Marines). The majority of figurines are plastic, and seperate paint
> >> jobs. Now I have had good experience with Pine-sol for my Battletech
> >> minis (all metal) since I can let them soak for days to get the glue
> >> gone.
> >>
> >> I did a test to night with a brave trooper and in 2 hrs, I was able to
> >> remove 90%+ of the paint, no problem. However, all the joints remained
> >> glued.
> >>
> >> I have been told that pine-sol will degrade the plastic if left for
> >> long periods of time. Is this several days, or sooner?
> >>
> >> I have no problem with doing some quick soaks to remove the paint,
> >> then start over, but a few were attached with non-legal bits (holding
> >> a 2nd bolter, etc). I would prefer not to have to cut them apart to
> >> remove them.
> >>
> >> Ideas?
> >
> > Yeah, I'd suggest Castrol Super Clean (engine degreaser). It's
> > safe to leave plastics in it for months where as the pine-sol will begin
> > to damage certain plastics after only a matter of hours. (Varies by
> > batch of plastic - GW isn't always consistant over the years with the
> > type of plastic they've used.) In addition, CSC will break down super
> > glue type bonds if the model is left in it for a couple of days (or
> > less). Epoxy and other type glues seem to be unaffected however.
> >
> > Hope that helps,
> >
> > Myrmidon
> >
>
> Brake fluid can usually take over for the rest - it's ok on the plastics in
> terms of stripping paint(although it does metal stripping excellently). It
> can break down the plastic bonds, depending on what they are - had good
> sucess with general mini's although I haven't been able to break apart a
> devilfish even after soaking for close to a week. It can do the same to
> epoxy as well, debonding them straight off of their bases. For extended
> duration soaks, it doesn't seem to do much better than soking for a day so
> you shouldn't have to worry about damage to the mini.
The problem with Brake Fluid (and why I only use it / recommend it
as a very last resort) is that it's *HIGHL* toxic stuff and utterly
unforgiving if you spill it. Not only will it take paint off of minis,
it'll do the same to the finish on a vehicle if you spill it in the
garage, it'll ruin carpet, poison pets & small children if inadvertantly
left in the wrong spot, etc. Castrol Super Clean, while still toxic
isn't nearly as much of a hazzard if spilled, etc. Of all the minis
I've stripped, only maybe a dozen actually needed work in brake fluid -
and that was mainly from 25+ year old Testors enamel model paint (one
color of brown in particular) that didn't want to come off in the CSC.
Seriously - start with the CSC first. It's a lot less hazzardous to
store, use, and dispose of, and a lot less expensive to boot.
Myrmidon
--
And I want someone to slap me with a fish every time I buy something
new, assemble it, and then leave it unpainted for months.
- Jakearon
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