[WH40k][Painting] Been using Pine-sol to Strip Paint, but ..

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

I recently aquired my first 40k Army (well the start of my Space
Marines). The majority of figurines are plastic, and seperate paint
jobs. Now I have had good experience with Pine-sol for my Battletech
minis (all metal) since I can let them soak for days to get the glue
gone.

I did a test to night with a brave trooper and in 2 hrs, I was able to
remove 90%+ of the paint, no problem. However, all the joints remained
glued.

I have been told that pine-sol will degrade the plastic if left for
long periods of time. Is this several days, or sooner?

I have no problem with doing some quick soaks to remove the paint,
then start over, but a few were attached with non-legal bits (holding
a 2nd bolter, etc). I would prefer not to have to cut them apart to
remove them.

Ideas?

Stad

stad 8888@8888 shaw.ca (remove those 8's)
11 answers Last reply
More about wh40k painting pine strip paint
  1. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    In article <c40j11d85jodrn3htbaogr8f733u4p1954@4ax.com>, Scooter, stad13
    @canada.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
    > I recently aquired my first 40k Army (well the start of my Space
    > Marines). The majority of figurines are plastic, and seperate paint
    > jobs. Now I have had good experience with Pine-sol for my Battletech
    > minis (all metal) since I can let them soak for days to get the glue
    > gone.
    >
    > I did a test to night with a brave trooper and in 2 hrs, I was able to
    > remove 90%+ of the paint, no problem. However, all the joints remained
    > glued.
    >
    > I have been told that pine-sol will degrade the plastic if left for
    > long periods of time. Is this several days, or sooner?
    >
    > I have no problem with doing some quick soaks to remove the paint,
    > then start over, but a few were attached with non-legal bits (holding
    > a 2nd bolter, etc). I would prefer not to have to cut them apart to
    > remove them.
    >
    > Ideas?

    Yeah, I'd suggest Castrol Super Clean (engine degreaser). It's
    safe to leave plastics in it for months where as the pine-sol will begin
    to damage certain plastics after only a matter of hours. (Varies by
    batch of plastic - GW isn't always consistant over the years with the
    type of plastic they've used.) In addition, CSC will break down super
    glue type bonds if the model is left in it for a couple of days (or
    less). Epoxy and other type glues seem to be unaffected however.

    Hope that helps,

    Myrmidon


    --
    "Conan, what is best in life?"
    "To paint your miniatures, to see them driven before you on the table,
    and to hear the lamentation of the cheese-mongers!"

    - Del Webb

    RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org

    Or...

    http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
  2. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    "Myrmidon" <ImNot@home.com> wrote in message
    news:MPG.1c838f4e4fe4fc8d98a48f@news-server.woh.rr.com...
    > In article <c40j11d85jodrn3htbaogr8f733u4p1954@4ax.com>, Scooter, stad13
    > @canada.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
    >> I recently aquired my first 40k Army (well the start of my Space
    >> Marines). The majority of figurines are plastic, and seperate paint
    >> jobs. Now I have had good experience with Pine-sol for my Battletech
    >> minis (all metal) since I can let them soak for days to get the glue
    >> gone.
    >>
    >> I did a test to night with a brave trooper and in 2 hrs, I was able to
    >> remove 90%+ of the paint, no problem. However, all the joints remained
    >> glued.
    >>
    >> I have been told that pine-sol will degrade the plastic if left for
    >> long periods of time. Is this several days, or sooner?
    >>
    >> I have no problem with doing some quick soaks to remove the paint,
    >> then start over, but a few were attached with non-legal bits (holding
    >> a 2nd bolter, etc). I would prefer not to have to cut them apart to
    >> remove them.
    >>
    >> Ideas?
    >
    > Yeah, I'd suggest Castrol Super Clean (engine degreaser). It's
    > safe to leave plastics in it for months where as the pine-sol will begin
    > to damage certain plastics after only a matter of hours. (Varies by
    > batch of plastic - GW isn't always consistant over the years with the
    > type of plastic they've used.) In addition, CSC will break down super
    > glue type bonds if the model is left in it for a couple of days (or
    > less). Epoxy and other type glues seem to be unaffected however.
    >
    > Hope that helps,
    >
    > Myrmidon
    >

    Brake fluid can usually take over for the rest - it's ok on the plastics in
    terms of stripping paint(although it does metal stripping excellently). It
    can break down the plastic bonds, depending on what they are - had good
    sucess with general mini's although I haven't been able to break apart a
    devilfish even after soaking for close to a week. It can do the same to
    epoxy as well, debonding them straight off of their bases. For extended
    duration soaks, it doesn't seem to do much better than soking for a day so
    you shouldn't have to worry about damage to the mini.
  3. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    In article <ECmSd.31884$s16.3979@trndny02>, Eric A. Johnson,
    vze1mx2h@verizon.net Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
    >
    > "Myrmidon" <ImNot@home.com> wrote in message
    > news:MPG.1c838f4e4fe4fc8d98a48f@news-server.woh.rr.com...
    > > In article <c40j11d85jodrn3htbaogr8f733u4p1954@4ax.com>, Scooter, stad13
    > > @canada.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
    > >> I recently aquired my first 40k Army (well the start of my Space
    > >> Marines). The majority of figurines are plastic, and seperate paint
    > >> jobs. Now I have had good experience with Pine-sol for my Battletech
    > >> minis (all metal) since I can let them soak for days to get the glue
    > >> gone.
    > >>
    > >> I did a test to night with a brave trooper and in 2 hrs, I was able to
    > >> remove 90%+ of the paint, no problem. However, all the joints remained
    > >> glued.
    > >>
    > >> I have been told that pine-sol will degrade the plastic if left for
    > >> long periods of time. Is this several days, or sooner?
    > >>
    > >> I have no problem with doing some quick soaks to remove the paint,
    > >> then start over, but a few were attached with non-legal bits (holding
    > >> a 2nd bolter, etc). I would prefer not to have to cut them apart to
    > >> remove them.
    > >>
    > >> Ideas?
    > >
    > > Yeah, I'd suggest Castrol Super Clean (engine degreaser). It's
    > > safe to leave plastics in it for months where as the pine-sol will begin
    > > to damage certain plastics after only a matter of hours. (Varies by
    > > batch of plastic - GW isn't always consistant over the years with the
    > > type of plastic they've used.) In addition, CSC will break down super
    > > glue type bonds if the model is left in it for a couple of days (or
    > > less). Epoxy and other type glues seem to be unaffected however.
    > >
    > > Hope that helps,
    > >
    > > Myrmidon
    > >
    >
    > Brake fluid can usually take over for the rest - it's ok on the plastics in
    > terms of stripping paint(although it does metal stripping excellently). It
    > can break down the plastic bonds, depending on what they are - had good
    > sucess with general mini's although I haven't been able to break apart a
    > devilfish even after soaking for close to a week. It can do the same to
    > epoxy as well, debonding them straight off of their bases. For extended
    > duration soaks, it doesn't seem to do much better than soking for a day so
    > you shouldn't have to worry about damage to the mini.

    The problem with Brake Fluid (and why I only use it / recommend it
    as a very last resort) is that it's *HIGHL* toxic stuff and utterly
    unforgiving if you spill it. Not only will it take paint off of minis,
    it'll do the same to the finish on a vehicle if you spill it in the
    garage, it'll ruin carpet, poison pets & small children if inadvertantly
    left in the wrong spot, etc. Castrol Super Clean, while still toxic
    isn't nearly as much of a hazzard if spilled, etc. Of all the minis
    I've stripped, only maybe a dozen actually needed work in brake fluid -
    and that was mainly from 25+ year old Testors enamel model paint (one
    color of brown in particular) that didn't want to come off in the CSC.

    Seriously - start with the CSC first. It's a lot less hazzardous to
    store, use, and dispose of, and a lot less expensive to boot.

    Myrmidon

    --
    And I want someone to slap me with a fish every time I buy something
    new, assemble it, and then leave it unpainted for months.

    - Jakearon

    RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org

    Or...

    http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
  4. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    Scooter wrote:
    > I recently aquired my first 40k Army (well the start of my Space
    > Marines). The majority of figurines are plastic, and seperate paint
    > jobs.

    Soak in Castrol Super Clean to remove paint. It is relatively plastic
    safe, safer the Pine Sol. It is also a lot less toxic than brake fluid.

    > a few were attached with non-legal bits (holding a 2nd bolter,
    > etc). I would prefer not to have to cut them apart to remove them.

    If the models were assembed with CA, CSC will dissolve the glue. If
    they were welded together with plastic model cement, NOTHING will
    dissolve the glue.

    --
    --- John Hwang "JohnHwang...@cs.com.no.com"
    \-|-/
    | A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
    | Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
  5. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    Out from under a rock popped Scooter and said

    > I have no problem with doing some quick soaks to remove the paint,
    > then start over, but a few were attached with non-legal bits (holding
    > a 2nd bolter, etc). I would prefer not to have to cut them apart to
    > remove them.

    Ignore people suggesting Brake Fluid. Anything alcohol based will weaken
    glue over time. Sodium Hydroxide ie Drain Cleaner in my experience makes
    every type of glue and green stuff brittle so it breaks apart. Wear
    gloves, only use in a well ventilated space, don't breath the vapours.
    Don't put plastics into it straight away as the initial reaction with water
    generates quite a bit of head. Best of all, blow me down if it doesn't
    clean your drain when you dip it down the sink, and dilute well, break
    down, and not cause an ecological problem.

    --
    Rob Singers RGMW FAQ Maintainer. See it @ http://www.rgmw.org
    Send submissions to submissions at rgmw dot org changing the obvious.
    "I present to RGMW....the real life model for StrongBad." (c) Inc 2003
    Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
  6. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    On 22 Feb 2005 20:36:48 +1300, Robert Singers
    <rsingers@finger.hotmail.com> wrote:

    >Out from under a rock popped Scooter and said
    >
    >> I have no problem with doing some quick soaks to remove the paint,
    >> then start over, but a few were attached with non-legal bits (holding
    >> a 2nd bolter, etc). I would prefer not to have to cut them apart to
    >> remove them.
    >
    >Ignore people suggesting Brake Fluid. Anything alcohol based will weaken
    >glue over time. Sodium Hydroxide ie Drain Cleaner in my experience makes
    >every type of glue and green stuff brittle so it breaks apart. Wear
    >gloves, only use in a well ventilated space, don't breath the vapours.
    >Don't put plastics into it straight away as the initial reaction with water
    >generates quite a bit of head. Best of all, blow me down if it doesn't
    >clean your drain when you dip it down the sink, and dilute well, break
    >down, and not cause an ecological problem.

    and draino will not eat through the metal or plastic?
  7. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    In article <1dkn11h7d9tt5hnqtaktdsn7uer4v86897@4ax.com>, Scooter, stad13
    @canada.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
    > On 22 Feb 2005 20:36:48 +1300, Robert Singers
    > <rsingers@finger.hotmail.com> wrote:
    >
    > >Out from under a rock popped Scooter and said
    > >
    > >> I have no problem with doing some quick soaks to remove the paint,
    > >> then start over, but a few were attached with non-legal bits (holding
    > >> a 2nd bolter, etc). I would prefer not to have to cut them apart to
    > >> remove them.
    > >
    > >Ignore people suggesting Brake Fluid. Anything alcohol based will weaken
    > >glue over time. Sodium Hydroxide ie Drain Cleaner in my experience makes
    > >every type of glue and green stuff brittle so it breaks apart. Wear
    > >gloves, only use in a well ventilated space, don't breath the vapours.
    > >Don't put plastics into it straight away as the initial reaction with water
    > >generates quite a bit of head. Best of all, blow me down if it doesn't
    > >clean your drain when you dip it down the sink, and dilute well, break
    > >down, and not cause an ecological problem.
    >
    > and draino will not eat through the metal or plastic?

    He's in the New Zeland area, and may well not be familiar with the
    fact that a lot of North American 'drain cleaner' products contain
    various acids. If you're in the US or Canada - use Castrol Super Clean
    engine degreaser. It definitely will NOT damage metal or plastics. To
    date I've stripped over 100+ minis the majority of which were plastic
    with zero damage. I've got some old genestealers that have been soaking
    for weeks in the stuff as I simply haven't had time to clean them.

    Myrmidon

    --
    #1582. I think they call it Warhammer "40K" because that is how
    much you are going to have to make per year in order to play.

    - Eric Noland

    # 1082. Pound for pound I can buy cocaine cheaper than
    raise a Warhammer army

    - Roy Cox

    http://www.PetitionOnline.com/gwprice/

    ****

    RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org

    Or...

    http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
  8. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    Out from under a rock popped Myrmidon and said

    >> and draino will not eat through the metal or plastic?
    >
    > He's in the New Zeland area, and may well not be familiar with the
    > fact that a lot of North American 'drain cleaner' products contain
    > various acids.

    Draino here is 100% Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH). You can't have a base and an
    acid together because they'd just neutralise each other. So yeah I'd be
    very fascinated to find out what's in your Draino.

    --
    Rob Singers RGMW FAQ Maintainer. See it @ http://www.rgmw.org
    Send submissions to submissions at rgmw dot org changing the obvious.
    "I present to RGMW....the real life model for StrongBad." (c) Inc 2003
    Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
  9. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    "Robert Singers" <rsingers@finger.hotmail.com> wrote in message
    news:Xns96069FB43F006rsingers@IP-Hidden...
    > Out from under a rock popped Myrmidon and said
    >
    > >> and draino will not eat through the metal or plastic?
    > >
    > > He's in the New Zeland area, and may well not be familiar with the
    > > fact that a lot of North American 'drain cleaner' products contain
    > > various acids.
    >
    > Draino here is 100% Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH). You can't have a base and an
    > acid together because they'd just neutralise each other. So yeah I'd be
    > very fascinated to find out what's in your Draino.

    This makes me realise the difference between norms/blunts/muggles and
    gamers:

    Muggle: Dude! I found out if you take a box of wheat crackers, crush them up
    and shove them up your butt during winter solstice you get sooooooooo high!

    Gamer: Dude! I found out if you take a can of sprite, and soak your
    miniatures in it under a mid-summers sun during a leap year the paint comes
    riiiiight off!
  10. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    "Myrmidon" <ImNot@home.com> wrote in message
    news:MPG.1c85a495e651e66b98a495@news-server.woh.rr.com...

    >> and draino will not eat through the metal or plastic?
    >
    > He's in the New Zeland area, and may well not be familiar with the
    > fact that a lot of North American 'drain cleaner' products contain
    > various acids.

    actually they're alkaline solvents, which means they're even better at
    melting plastic :)
  11. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    >
    > He's in the New Zeland area, and may well not be familiar with the
    >fact that a lot of North American 'drain cleaner' products contain
    >various acids. If you're in the US or Canada - use Castrol Super Clean
    >engine degreaser. It definitely will NOT damage metal or plastics. To
    >date I've stripped over 100+ minis the majority of which were plastic
    >with zero damage. I've got some old genestealers that have been soaking
    >for weeks in the stuff as I simply haven't had time to clean them.
    >
    > Myrmidon

    figured it was too good. Yah I'll have to try Castrol down the road.
    My stripping with pinesol was successful, however, I had like 4 minis
    that must have been sprayed with a black prime that refused to come
    off. The first batch turned to this black slime that refused to be
    brushed away.

    I will definitely use CSC when we finally build our garage. My wife
    would not understand me using it in the basement, as she rolls her
    eyes when I use Pinesol.

    Thanks for all your help!
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