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[model] How can you remove superglue from plastic models?

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

I have some plastic tanks that are covered in superglue. Is there a way to
remove the residue without affecting the plastic? I've heard about
superglue removers you can buy as well that acetone will get rid of it, but
I'm concerned about damage to the model. Any advice?
21 answers Last reply
More about model remove superglue plastic models
  1. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    Ernest wrote:
    > I have some plastic tanks that are covered in superglue. Is there a way to
    > remove the residue without affecting the plastic? I've heard about
    > superglue removers you can buy as well that acetone will get rid of it, but
    > I'm concerned about damage to the model. Any advice?

    The only real way to do it is physically. the stuff will chip off
    pretty readily, it'll simply take a while. A dremel can make short
    work of it, and any nicks or marks to the tank can usually be
    redesigned as battle damage.

    Steve
  2. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    In article <5FlKe.238640$_o.108603@attbi_s71>, Ernest,
    h.shirley@insightbb.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
    > I have some plastic tanks that are covered in superglue. Is there a way to
    > remove the residue without affecting the plastic? I've heard about
    > superglue removers you can buy as well that acetone will get rid of it, but
    > I'm concerned about damage to the model. Any advice?
    >
    In light of Doc Roc's and Steve's solid answers I'll add the
    following - acetone would be a BIG NO NO. It'll soften and eventually
    eat the plastic. About the only thing I can suggest is Castrol Super
    Clean (an automotive degreaser). I've used it on a lot of plastic
    minis and it'll strip the paint off wonderfully without damaging the
    plastic - which is why I used it. As a side effect I've noticed it'll
    cause most super glue to become brittle and the bonds to break. For me
    this is a plus as I usually like to paint my minis before I do the
    final assembly. If the glue is caked on in thick blobs, you might be
    able to get it to become brittle and more easily chipped off (like Steve
    suggested) by using CSC, but the paint will definitely come off the
    model, and the whole thing may come appart if it was put together
    entirely with super glue.

    Hope that helps,

    Myrmidon


    --
    "I'm already impoverished from buying wargames minis,
    and I'm too knackered for riotous living..."

    -- Moramarth

    RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org

    Or...

    http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
  3. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    "Ernest" wrote...
    > I have some plastic tanks that are covered in superglue. Is there a way to
    > remove the residue without affecting the plastic? I've heard about
    > superglue removers you can buy as well that acetone will get rid of it, but
    > I'm concerned about damage to the model. Any advice?

    Acetone will do a great job of removing superglue. Unfortunately, it also does
    a great job of dissolving most plastics.

    However, there is one other fact that might be of some use. All cyanoacrylates
    (a.k.a. superglue) melt at only 140 degrees F. I recall one time at work we ran
    an environmental test on a prototype made of ABS plastic that was held together
    with superglue. The test hit 150 degrees F and the prototype fell apart right
    in front of a prospective customer! (Oops!) The parts were all in perfect
    condition; they just weren't attached to each other anymore. The big question
    is what kind of plastic do they use for models and what's its melting point?
    *If* its sufficiently high, a dip in boiling water (212 F) might solve your
    problem real quick. Suggest you test this first on an expendable piece of
    plastic. Also suggest you remove the pot of boiling water from the stove before
    testing it on any plastic bits. Plastic and burners don't mix pleasantly.

    --
    - Ward.
    wardcb at earthlink dot net

    "Did Noah keep his bees in archives?"
  4. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    W. B. wrote:
    > The big question is what kind of plastic do they use for models and what's its melting point? *If* its sufficiently high, a dip in boiling water (212 F) might solve your
    > problem real quick. Suggest you test this first on an expendable piece of plastic.

    I found out yesterday that the plastic bases shouldn't be put in boiling
    water. I was stripping down some figures, and popped them into boiling
    water to soak a bit before the toothbrush scrubbing began. When I came
    back, all the plastic bases were twisted and bent beyond repair. Probably
    not the same type of plastic used for the models, but a cautionary tale anyway.

    I use Dettol to strip my figures whether they're plastic or metal. It also
    has the added bonus of making glue brittle, as Myrmidon mentioned. An
    overnight soak of the affected areas might be enough to get the bulk of the
    glue off. I seem to recall someone mentioning that it was called Pinesol in
    the US. A friend of mine also advises caution when soaking plastic in
    Dettol. He believes that they soften, but I have never found this to be true.

    --
    Stephen Weir

    List of Games for Sale - http://www.glipe.free-online.co.uk/index.htm
    Midgard UK PBM - http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/midgard_uk_pbm/
    Current eBay Auctions - http://makeashorterlink.com/?F1F521555
    ICQ # 11472386
  5. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    In article <42fab31c$0$17473$ed2e19e4@ptn-nntp-reader04.plus.net>,
    Stephen Weir, sweir@sweir.free-online.co.uk Varfed out the following in
    Timo speak...
    > W. B. wrote:
    > > The big question is what kind of plastic do they use for models and what's its melting point?
    > > *If* its sufficiently high, a dip in boiling water (212 F) might solve your
    > > problem real quick. Suggest you test this first on an expendable piece of plastic.
    >
    > I found out yesterday that the plastic bases shouldn't be put in boiling
    > water. I was stripping down some figures, and popped them into boiling
    > water to soak a bit before the toothbrush scrubbing began. When I came
    > back, all the plastic bases were twisted and bent beyond repair. Probably
    > not the same type of plastic used for the models, but a cautionary tale anyway.
    >
    > I use Dettol to strip my figures whether they're plastic or metal. It also
    > has the added bonus of making glue brittle, as Myrmidon mentioned. An
    > overnight soak of the affected areas might be enough to get the bulk of the
    > glue off. I seem to recall someone mentioning that it was called Pinesol in
    > the US. A friend of mine also advises caution when soaking plastic in
    > Dettol. He believes that they soften, but I have never found this to be true.

    Pinesol and Dettol may not be the same thing then. I've seen more than
    one person (including RGMW's own RTM IIRC) report that prolonged soaking
    in Pinesol did indeed make plastic soft to the point where the bristles
    on a toothbrush scratched the plastic while attempting to scrub off the
    paint. Part of the problem is that the formula/type of plastic GW has
    used for it's various minis and kits has changed over the years so some
    items may well be more susceptible to harm than others.

    Myr

    --
    And I want someone to slap me with a fish every time I buy something
    new, assemble it, and then leave it unpainted for months.

    - Jakearon

    RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org

    Or...

    http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
  6. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    "Stephen Weir" wrote...
    > W. B. wrote:
    > > The big question is what kind of plastic do they use for models and what's
    its melting point? *If* its sufficiently high,
    > > a dip in boiling water (212 F) might solve your problem real quick. Suggest
    you test this first on an expendable
    > > piece of plastic.
    >
    > I found out yesterday that the plastic bases shouldn't be put in boiling
    > water. I was stripping down some figures, and popped them into boiling
    > water to soak a bit before the toothbrush scrubbing began. When I came
    > back, all the plastic bases were twisted and bent beyond repair. Probably
    > not the same type of plastic used for the models, but a cautionary tale
    anyway.

    Probably not. There are many, many different types of plastic. The ABS I
    mentioned earlier is a structural plastic, and fairly durable. Somehow I
    suspect plastics used for models will be a cheaper grade than that. Though now
    that I think about it, boiling water (212 F) is overkill for removing superglue
    (melts at 140 F). That 72 degrees might make a difference. Perhaps a hair
    dryer or a turn under the hot water tap might do the trick?
    --
    - Ward.
    wardcb at earthlink dot net

    "Did Noah keep his bees in archives?"
  7. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    "Myrmidon" <ImNot@home.com> wrote in message
    news:MPG.1d645d6375f43f9498a5f2@news-server.woh.rr.com...

    >About the only thing I can suggest is Castrol Super
    > Clean (an automotive degreaser). I've used it on a lot of plastic
    > minis and it'll strip the paint off wonderfully without damaging the
    > plastic - which is why I used it.

    We suspect he is also the majority shareholder in the company. =oP

    > As a side effect I've noticed it'll
    > cause most super glue to become brittle and the bonds to break. For me
    > this is a plus as I usually like to paint my minis before I do the
    > final assembly.

    Be wary of a salesman that turns a bug into a feature. That's how the
    "double click" on the mouse got started, afterall.

    > If the glue is caked on in thick blobs, you might be
    > able to get it to become brittle and more easily chipped off (like Steve
    > suggested) by using CSC, but the paint will definitely come off the
    > model, and the whole thing may come appart if it was put together
    > entirely with super glue.

    I've heard it does an alright job of cleaning engines, too.

    >
    > Hope that helps,
    >
    > Myrmidon
    >

    I might get around to buying some of that today, actually.
    Thanks for the timely reminder ;)

    --
    Jon Hedge,
    "The chances are, I said it in jest."

    RGMW FAQ @ http://www.rgmw.org
  8. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    Between saving the world and having a spot of tea Ernest said

    > I have some plastic tanks that are covered in superglue. Is there a
    > way to
    > remove the residue without affecting the plastic? I've heard about
    > superglue removers you can buy as well that acetone will get rid of
    > it, but I'm concerned about damage to the model. Any advice?
    >

    I've found through soaking minis in meths for a long time that the super
    glue tends to disappear. From memory Caustics Soda makes it very brittle
    and you can brush it off.

    --
    Rob Singers RGMW FAQ Maintainer. See it @ http://www.rgmw.org
    Send submissions to submissions at rgmw dot org changing the obvious.
    "I present to RGMW....the real life model for StrongBad." (c) Inc 2003
    Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
  9. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    Taking a break from the lucrative trade of smuggling black market beagles,
    Myrmidon wrote:

    > Pinesol and Dettol may not be the same thing then. I've seen more
    > than one person (including RGMW's own RTM IIRC) report that prolonged
    > soaking in Pinesol did indeed make plastic soft to the point where
    > the bristles on a toothbrush scratched the plastic while attempting
    > to scrub off the paint. Part of the problem is that the formula/type
    > of plastic GW has used for it's various minis and kits has changed
    > over the years so some items may well be more susceptible to harm
    > than others.

    I lost a squad of 'gants because I soaked them in PineSol overnight; it
    seemed to me that leaving them in there for an hour was okay (I was able to
    salvage those okay), but overnight was WAY too long and they now reside in
    my bitz box, waiting for me to figure out what to do with them... (One
    became a carcass for another mini to stand over, but that's about all I've
    come up with so far.)

    --gair
  10. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    In article <cVSKe.4559$WD.2138@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net>, gair,
    gaire-nospam@earthlink.net Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
    > Taking a break from the lucrative trade of smuggling black market beagles,
    > Myrmidon wrote:
    >
    > > Pinesol and Dettol may not be the same thing then. I've seen more
    > > than one person (including RGMW's own RTM IIRC) report that prolonged
    > > soaking in Pinesol did indeed make plastic soft to the point where
    > > the bristles on a toothbrush scratched the plastic while attempting
    > > to scrub off the paint. Part of the problem is that the formula/type
    > > of plastic GW has used for it's various minis and kits has changed
    > > over the years so some items may well be more susceptible to harm
    > > than others.
    >
    > I lost a squad of 'gants because I soaked them in PineSol overnight; it
    > seemed to me that leaving them in there for an hour was okay (I was able to
    > salvage those okay), but overnight was WAY too long and they now reside in
    > my bitz box, waiting for me to figure out what to do with them... (One
    > became a carcass for another mini to stand over, but that's about all I've
    > come up with so far.)

    Ouch! Sorry to hear that. To date I've had excellent results
    with Castrol Super Clean, and absolutely no damage to any of the
    plastics I've used it on - ranging from old termagants and 'Tyranid
    Attack' scouts to the more modern plastics. I've soaked items like
    genestealers and gants in CSC for weeks without concern. Even the thin
    plastic of the bases comes out just fine. Metal items come through
    without any problems at all - other than the noted effect that some
    glues debond and/or become brittle. So far, CSC has been the most
    effective overall without being uber-toxic like Dot3 Breakfluid or some
    of the commercial hobby 'paint-removers'.

    Myr :~/


    --
    "Conan, what is best in life?"
    "To paint your miniatures, to see them driven before you on the table,
    and to hear the lamentation of the cheese-mongers!"

    - Del Webb

    RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org

    Or...

    http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
  11. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    > Taking a break from the lucrative trade of smuggling black market beagles,
    > Myrmidon wrote:
    >
    >> Pinesol and Dettol may not be the same thing then. I've seen more

    Almost certainly not...Dettol is a trademark for a wide number of
    preparations. The most established being their topical/general
    disinfectants which are based (dependant on precisely which Dettol product
    and whether you are in the UK or the Aus or so on) on chloroxylenol,
    benzalkonium chloride and/or Triclosan.

    The lead Dettol liquid that people will see and buy is Dettol
    Antiseptic Disinfectant Liquid which is the chloroxylenol based
    product. The mark is owned by Reckitts (I think), for the purposes of
    that sort of medical wash the US closest equivalent is Microguard or Sween
    Prep if I remember correctly.

    Pinesol is a pine oil based cleanser.....Dettol may produce something
    similar but its not going to be the bottle Id expect most people to
    recognise, and Pinesol isnt listed in the pharmacopeias that Dettol is.

    Therefore I conclude that the two are pretty unlikely to be the same and
    if any crossover exists you will have to be very sure you grab the right
    product.

    Tim
    --
    When playing rugby, its not the winning that counts, but the taking apart
    ICQ: 5178568
  12. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    Tim Fitzmaurice wrote:
    > The lead Dettol liquid that people will see and buy is Dettol Antiseptic Disinfectant Liquid which is the chloroxylenol based product. The mark
    > is owned by Reckitts (I think), for the purposes of that sort of medical wash the US closest equivalent is Microguard or Sween Prep if I remember
    > correctly.

    It is the Antiseptic Disinfectant Liquid I'm using. The 'ingredients' are
    listed as Chloroxylenol, Pine Oil, Isopropyl Alcohol, Castor Oil Soap,
    Caramel and Water. Perhaps one of our American members can tell us what
    comes closest to that. I use it undiluted, which will require the use of
    gloves. It causes the paint to lift off the surface of the figure, like a
    second skin, and then it's a simple matter to peel the majority off with
    your fingers. A scrub with a toothbrush afterwards should remove any
    residue in the detail.

    --
    Stephen Weir

    List of Games for Sale - http://www.glipe.free-online.co.uk/index.htm
    Midgard UK PBM - http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/midgard_uk_pbm/
    Current eBay Auctions - http://makeashorterlink.com/?F1F521555
    ICQ # 11472386
  13. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    On 8/12/05 1:00 PM, in article
    42fcd599$0$97100$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader03.plus.net, "Stephen Weir"
    <sweir@sweir.free-online.co.uk> wrote:

    > Tim Fitzmaurice wrote:
    >> The lead Dettol liquid that people will see and buy is Dettol Antiseptic
    >> Disinfectant Liquid which is the chloroxylenol based product. The mark
    >> is owned by Reckitts (I think), for the purposes of that sort of medical wash
    >> the US closest equivalent is Microguard or Sween Prep if I remember
    >> correctly.
    >
    > It is the Antiseptic Disinfectant Liquid I'm using. The 'ingredients' are
    > listed as Chloroxylenol, Pine Oil, Isopropyl Alcohol, Castor Oil Soap,
    > Caramel and Water. Perhaps one of our American members can tell us what
    > comes closest to that. I use it undiluted, which will require the use of
    > gloves. It causes the paint to lift off the surface of the figure, like a
    > second skin, and then it's a simple matter to peel the majority off with
    > your fingers. A scrub with a toothbrush afterwards should remove any
    > residue in the detail.


    Pine-Sol is not very forthcoming with its ingredients, oddly enough. It
    says 15% Pine Oil, 85% "Other Ingredients" with an asterisk to "includes
    detergents and other cleaning agents, includes biodegradeable cleaning
    agents." Then it helpfully tells us "total: 100%"

    It's a eye and skin irritant - and you are supposed to immediately remove
    clothing if it gets on them. Oh, and don't drink it either.

    <shrug>

    So don't be eating any lead miniatures you expose to Pine-Sol, okay?

    janet
    --
    I had a lover's quarrel with the world.
    Robert Frost
  14. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    Janet Quick wrote:
    > Pine-Sol is not very forthcoming with its ingredients, oddly enough. It says 15% Pine Oil, 85% "Other Ingredients" with an asterisk to "includes
    > detergents and other cleaning agents, includes biodegradeable cleaning agents." Then it helpfully tells us "total: 100%"

    It's brilliant, in a completely useless way.

    > It's a eye and skin irritant - and you are supposed to immediately remove clothing if it gets on them. Oh, and don't drink it either.

    I'm sure that's been used as a chat-up line before. "Oh no...I've spilt
    Pine-Sol all over your clothing, you'll have to remove it immediately."

    > So don't be eating any lead miniatures you expose to Pine-Sol, okay?

    Plastic ones are still fine then?

    --
    Stephen Weir

    List of Games for Sale - http://www.glipe.free-online.co.uk/index.htm
    Midgard UK PBM - http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/midgard_uk_pbm/
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    ICQ # 11472386
  15. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    On Fri, 12 Aug 2005, Stephen Weir wrote:

    > Tim Fitzmaurice wrote:
    >> The lead Dettol liquid that people will see and buy is Dettol Antiseptic
    >> Disinfectant Liquid which is the chloroxylenol based product. The mark is
    >> owned by Reckitts (I think), for the purposes of that sort of medical wash
    >> the US closest equivalent is Microguard or Sween Prep if I remember
    >> correctly.
    >
    > It is the Antiseptic Disinfectant Liquid I'm using. The 'ingredients' are
    > listed as Chloroxylenol, Pine Oil, Isopropyl Alcohol, Castor Oil Soap,

    Hmm so it has some pine oil in it - thats gonna be what made people make
    the link.....from what Ive seen o Pinesol (was common in Singapore) its a
    lot more of the Pine Oil than Dettol - also it probably has a different
    solvent set and that is where the issue of bendiness is going to come
    from. You'll need the solvent list....

    Tim
    --
    When playing rugby, its not the winning that counts, but the taking apart
    ICQ: 5178568
  16. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    Janet Quick wrote:
    >> I'm sure that's been used as a chat-up line before. "Oh no...I've spilt Pine-Sol all over your clothing, you'll have to remove it immediately."
    >>
    > Geez, I'm sorry. If you had told me your name the other night I would never have used that old ploy on you. (I would have used a new ploy.)

    It's hard to say anything when you're being gagged and doused in Pine-Sol.

    >> Plastic ones are still fine then?
    >>
    > Probably not, but it doesn't say anywhere on this bottle that I can't soak my cigs in the stuff then smoke them. It's 85% cleaning agents so that
    > should handle any lung-grung build-up. But the mix of menthol and pine is a bit wiffy.

    I'll bet it doesn't say you can douse strangers in it either.

    --
    Stephen Weir

    List of Games for Sale - http://www.glipe.free-online.co.uk/index.htm
    Midgard UK PBM - http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/midgard_uk_pbm/
    Current eBay Auctions - http://makeashorterlink.com/?F1F521555
    ICQ # 11472386
  17. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    On 8/17/05 4:38 PM, in article
    4303a04d$0$17500$ed2e19e4@ptn-nntp-reader04.plus.net, "Stephen Weir"
    <sweir@sweir.free-online.co.uk> wrote:

    >
    > I'll bet it doesn't say you can douse strangers in it either.

    Well, it says not to get it on clothes...so, apparently only naked
    strangers.


    janet
    --
    Don't let us make imaginary evils, when you know we have so many real one to
    encounter.
    Oliver Goldsmith
  18. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    In article <4303a04d$0$17500$ed2e19e4@ptn-nntp-reader04.plus.net>,
    Stephen Weir, sweir@sweir.free-online.co.uk Varfed out the following in
    Timo speak...


    > I'll bet it doesn't say you can douse strangers in it either.
    >

    LOL! That's about outtake-able right there without any
    explaination needed. :)

    When it's oh so wrong, it's oh so RGMW.

    Myr

    --
    and I know if I had the power to inflict people with disgusting and
    debilitating illnesses I'd be pretty cheerful too.

    - Kurt

    RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org

    Or...

    http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
  19. Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

    Janet Quick wrote:
    >> I'll bet it doesn't say you can douse strangers in it either.
    >>
    > Well, it says not to get it on clothes...so, apparently only naked strangers.

    Are you off to the nearest nudist beach after work then?

    --
    Stephen Weir

    List of Games for Sale - http://www.glipe.free-online.co.uk/index.htm
    Midgard UK PBM - http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/midgard_uk_pbm/
    Current eBay Auctions - http://makeashorterlink.com/?F1F521555
    ICQ # 11472386
  20. i have discovered by accident that the absolute best thing to remove without removing the paint would be contact cleaner (stuff u clean electronics with) just spray it on the glue wait 2 seconds then pull apart spray as much as you want as it leaves no residue good luck :)
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