Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (
More info?)
In article <df22vj$6jq$1@gnus01.u.washington.edu>,
relkins@u.washington.edu says...
> >> 1) After building and basing, prime chaos black
> >
> > Remember to clean your minis before primering them. A good
> > degreasing dish detergent or a bleach based cleaner like clorox spray or
> > even Fantastic spray cleaner works well to get off any mold release
> > agents and finger oils still on the minis. Also - save some of the
> > plastic sprue if possible and test your spray primer on the sprue before
> > using it on your good minis. There's always the possibility of one
> > batch of paint/plastic being different and having a solvent reaction -
> > find out on the sprue and not on the minis.
> I alwaysd o this w/ my metal minis. Old tooth brush and a drop of dish soap
> works great. And I've never had any problem painting plastic minis "out of
> the box" w/o cleaning.
Well, the plastics are the ones that have the tendency to have
problems with the solvents in spray paints so I always err on the side of
caution when it comes to making sure they're ready to go.
> >
> >> 2) base coat all of model w/ GW ultramarines blue spray paint
> >
> > If you're going to do spray on base coat which will pretty much
> > cover your primer coat and then an ink wash, there's no point in using
> > black primer unless that's all you've got. In this case I'd recommend a
> > white base primer as it'll make your blue look better (more light will
> > reflect back from the white primer base making your blue look
> > brighter/stronger in hue).
> Thanks for the tip. I tend to like the darker look that a black basecoat
> gives my SM minis.
Cool. This is what I do with my Nids, but I'm finding for my units of
Ultra-smurfs that I like the Blue over White look with the ink wash on
top. Gives them a brighter look and sets them apart from my Blue &
Purple bugs.
<snipage>
> > Obviously you can primer these black separately from the rest of the
> > mini. If you've never tried it - there's a really handy tool called
> > 'masking fluid' that water color artists use a lot to protect areas from
> > getting paint on them. Masking fluid is like a thin rubbery
> > paint/rubber cement that can be brushed onto specific parts of your
> > mini. When it dries it forms a rubbery barrier that can be
> > primered/painted over and then removed later leaving a clean surface for
> > gluing parts together - or it can be applied over existing paint to
> > protect an area from spray/mistakes, etc. I use it when I'm primering
> > minis to protect the areas where I want to glue parts together since I
> > usually only partly assemble my minis before painting them and then
> > gluing the parts together.
> I'm going to try the masking fluid! One part that always drove me nuts was
> touching everything up. I'll let you know how this works.
A few pointers on using masking fluid. It can be thinned with water,
but even cleaning the brushes in water regularly, they'll still gum up
eventually. When I use the masking fluid I tend to use Testors paint
brushes - they've got thick bristles and they survive the masking fluid
and hold their shape a bit better. As for cleaning the brushes - testors
paint thinner works well - let the brush soak in a small amount of it and
the masking fluid will be largely disolved - you'll never get it all out
of the brush, but with a stiff bristle type brush, you can get a lot of
life out of it before it's finally toast. And last but not least -
don't shake up the bottle of masking fluid - it just makes a frothy mess
inside the bottle that's hard to use. If the contents dry out on top,
use a pick or wire to pull the solidify goo out and use the liquid stuff
underneath.
Hope that helps - and good luck with the masking fluid, I love the stuff.
Myrmidon
--
"I'm already impoverished from buying wargames minis,
and I'm too knackered for riotous living..."
-- Moramarth
RGMW FAQ:
http://www.rgmw.org
Or...
http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
Facebook
Twitter
Instagram