hard to say..
thermal resistance at forced air flow could be temperature change with high barometer pressure, confused with thermal resistance at ____ cfm of air flow.
but
it makes more clear sense to note the temperature changes with the barometer pressure, because it is a key indication of whether or not the thermal dissipation per hour needs to be high or low.
to say you have something 100 degrees F that is as thin as a piece of paper, higher barometer pressure will cool that 100 degrees F
if the thing was thick like a flashlight, the higher barometer pressure would cool it more.. but the final temperature would be significantly different than the hot thing that is as thin as a piece of paper.
boils down to the desire of being reduced to ambient temperature.. and how stubborn the heated piece is.
cant make any translations without the equipment to conduct thermal readings, and to change the forecast in the room the IC chip is in to again record those thermal readings.
sounds like a plea to get you to buy some thermal imaging software, as well as obtain some ways to change the forcast in the room.
just measure the temperature and match the number with thermal dissapation per hour.
you should be able to find a conversion calculator to transform degrees into thermal watts.
heat can be the same tricky situation as voltage and current.
the paper thin IC chip would cool quicker than the 2 inch IC chip. (depending on materials used, this can be totally backwards)
but you get the idea.. if it cools easy, you dont need a lot.
if it is stubborn to reduce temperature, you need a lot more.
quick wise words would say transform the degree to thermal watt and match the number with a specification listed for a heatsink (computer heatsinks say thermal watt dissipation all the time).
if the heatsink isnt good enough.. you know you need to increase the thermal watt dissipation.
when you take a note of how well the first heatsink worked (as long as the thermal watt wasnt a lie) .. then you should get a general idea of how much more you need.
you will probably have to destroy the IC chip by letting it get as hot as it does normally without a heatsink.
if it fails.. you know you need a heatsink.
and if it fails before you get it to normal operating temperature.. try putting it in a freezer and letting it get up to normal operating temperature, then grab the temperature and add the temp of the freezer BEFORE you put the IC chip inside.
that should get you a ballpark figure to get a heatsink.
it might not be the perfect heatsink.. but it should be enough to allow the IC chip to get up to normal operating temperature long enough to reach a degree and stay.
then check that temperature with the safety limit of the IC chip and get a better heatsink if you need it.
what are we supposed to tell you when we dont know if the IC chip can get up to normal operating temperature before failing without a heatsink?
the form from digikey isnt detailed and informative enough to describe exactly what number goes into those spaces.
those forms need definitions before anybody can go about tackling some college degree of mathematics.