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Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)
I'm having a problem with a High Speed which continually resets during
gameplay. Testing the power supply shows the 12v supply as being ok,
but the 5v as being low (about 4.7v).
I've replaced the cap at C8 (47mfd, 50v) and found no change.
Switching the BR at BR1 seems to have caused the voltage to drop a
little lower (about 4.5v). A little later I had 0v on the 5v supply.
After some inspection, I found what appeared to be a short on the
traces under BR1. I had a heck of a time soldering on the BR1 with the
lug connectors and ended up using a little too much solder. I removed
the BR1 and cleaned up the mess, then reinstalled it. Again, 0v.
How susceptible are bridge rectifiers to heat damage? I'm beginning to
wonder if I killed the BR when desoldering it.
I've attempted to locate info on testing BRs and couldn't find much
info. The best article I found indicated a diode tester could be used
between the + and ~ leads and should result in a .6 reading. Reversing
should produce a high reading. This isn't the case the BR I have or
the original BR I removed. Is this info accurate?
I'm also planning to replace the cap at C10 (18000mfd, 20v), but would
like to straighten out the BR problem first.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob
I'm having a problem with a High Speed which continually resets during
gameplay. Testing the power supply shows the 12v supply as being ok,
but the 5v as being low (about 4.7v).
I've replaced the cap at C8 (47mfd, 50v) and found no change.
Switching the BR at BR1 seems to have caused the voltage to drop a
little lower (about 4.5v). A little later I had 0v on the 5v supply.
After some inspection, I found what appeared to be a short on the
traces under BR1. I had a heck of a time soldering on the BR1 with the
lug connectors and ended up using a little too much solder. I removed
the BR1 and cleaned up the mess, then reinstalled it. Again, 0v.
How susceptible are bridge rectifiers to heat damage? I'm beginning to
wonder if I killed the BR when desoldering it.
I've attempted to locate info on testing BRs and couldn't find much
info. The best article I found indicated a diode tester could be used
between the + and ~ leads and should result in a .6 reading. Reversing
should produce a high reading. This isn't the case the BR I have or
the original BR I removed. Is this info accurate?
I'm also planning to replace the cap at C10 (18000mfd, 20v), but would
like to straighten out the BR problem first.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob