TECH: LoTR Gimli saucer

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

When a ball lands in the Gimli saucer (just south of the pop bumpers),
the saucer doesn't recognize the ball. Jiggling, even hard shaking
doesn't help. You have to wait for the ball search for the VUK to
fire. The VUK, by the way, is fine. The diagnostics don't show
anything--the game actually says "playfield OK" and "switch
tests--none". Any ideas?
18 answers Last reply
More about tech lotr gimli saucer
  1. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    so saucer switch tests ok when both open and closed in switch test
    mode??
  2. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Uh-oh. I went thru the switch test on "Portals" but don't quite
    understand the open and closed part. Bear with me--I'm trying to
    learn. I'm getting sick of being technically helpless.
  3. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Come on over, I'll tech you into unhelplessness.

    Go into switch test, and then move the switch up and down. See what it does.
    If nothing then remove the switch from the game and check with a meter. If
    switch is good, you have a broken wire or poor connection along the way,
    check wires of the same colors. If the switch is bad, replace it. LTG :)

    "azpinlawyer" <gregdavis@mail2lawyer.com> wrote in message
    news:1118794753.704964.157700@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
    > Uh-oh. I went thru the switch test on "Portals" but don't quite
    > understand the open and closed part. Bear with me--I'm trying to
    > learn. I'm getting sick of being technically helpless.
    >
  4. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    I have a LOTR on a route and both sausers have had these switches fail.
    Your best bet is to replace the switch. This is a high failure part
    from what I understand on stern pinz. I have been able to hear the
    switch click but get nothing in switch test. I think Stern got into a
    bad batch of these. Sometimes it will work but most of the time it
    doesn't. One thing I found to help make these work is to loosen the
    screws holding the switch in place just a bit, it works for a while or
    at least it did for me until I got the new switches installed.

    Chris
  5. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    I had the same type of switch fail on the upper playfield VUK on after
    only about 10 plays. It is a high failure part. Too bad they cost
    about 7 bucks to replace. You could fix for less by just buying a
    bunch of Cherry microswitches of the same base size and swap the
    mechanism over whenever they fail. I was surprised that on mine the
    failing part _was_ a Cherry microswitch. They are supposed to be
    pretty good.

    h_h
  6. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Make that the upper playfield VUK on my TSPP.

    h_h
  7. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    I've had the same problem on my machine with several of the VUK
    switches. What worked for me is to put the switch in an ultasonic
    cleaner for a couple of minutes. I have not had a single issue since.
    I believe what is happening is that when the switch is initially
    installed flux from the soldering is working its way inside, gumming up
    the works.
  8. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    I had one of the switches at the Shire (same switch as Gimli) go out a
    few weeks ago, with the same issues as you. I had my pin tech replace
    it - Mountain Coin on McDowell carrys them in their regular stock.

    By the way, my pin tech is outstanding and very reasonable if you need
    help - I usually don't have time to pull out a multmeter!

    Call Kirk Pardee (Ace Pinball Repairs) in Phoenix at: 602-906-4995.

    Definitely sounds like a bum switch.

    BRETT B
  9. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    THANKS, BRETT. I'LL CALL HIM.
  10. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    My LOTR is HUO and I've killed 3 switches so far. I keep stock on hand
    for next time.Steve Young also carries the switches complete with the
    lever.Good luck,Walt
  11. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    I just called him. While he's at it, he's going to replace the flipper
    plungers, etc., with Williams parts. This works, right? For
    longevity, strength, or both?
  12. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    My Balrog switch is starting to go after only about 500 games. Guess
    I'll have to pick up a few of those. Wonder how hard that will be to
    change...

    h_h
  13. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    He'll need to work on the EOS points then so they work and don't get beat up
    fast. LTG :)

    "azpinlawyer" <gregdavis@mail2lawyer.com> wrote in message
    news:1118866135.021883.286450@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
    > I just called him. While he's at it, he's going to replace the flipper
    > plungers, etc., with Williams parts. This works, right? For
    > longevity, strength, or both?
    >
  14. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Yes, Kirk knows what to replace in terms of using the WMS parts in lieu
    of the Stern stuff - I did the exchange about 1 year ago, and I notice
    more consistant hits especially to the ring shot.

    Kirk has been my life support line for nearly 6 years, espcially when
    it comes to any board level repairs (diodes, transistors, soldering,
    etc). I can do many things, but the electronics stuff I leave to a pro.

    Maybe when Lloyd starts doing house calls I can use him, eh?

    But then again, I would have to rent a new Vette :)

    BRETT B
  15. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    In article <1118872473.900602.99640@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
    "heckheck" <jsurf@heckheck.com> wrote:

    > My Balrog switch is starting to go after only about 500 games. Guess
    > I'll have to pick up a few of those. Wonder how hard that will be to
    > change...
    >
    > h_h

    Easy! Mine went south at about 350 5 ball games. Just practice with the
    soldering iron as you don't want it too hot or too long on the new
    switch as it can melt the guts.

    Cheers
    MacMan
  16. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    It would take more than a vette. You'd have to be someone I like too. Lloyd

    <brett.barry@cox.net> wrote in message
    news:1118902760.901985.195730@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
    > Yes, Kirk knows what to replace in terms of using the WMS parts in lieu
    > of the Stern stuff - I did the exchange about 1 year ago, and I notice
    > more consistant hits especially to the ring shot.
    >
    > Kirk has been my life support line for nearly 6 years, espcially when
    > it comes to any board level repairs (diodes, transistors, soldering,
    > etc). I can do many things, but the electronics stuff I leave to a pro.
    >
    > Maybe when Lloyd starts doing house calls I can use him, eh?
    >
    > But then again, I would have to rent a new Vette :)
    >
    > BRETT B
    >
  17. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Ah hah...

    I'll take that as a compliment :) Then again...

    BRETT B
  18. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    I got a replacement Balrog switch from Ray Johnson lickety-split but I
    had just gotten the machine that very day and so naturally I had to
    have it fixed N O W and jimmyrigged my own little leaf switch that
    still works perfect... and still haven't gotten un-lazy enough to put
    the real switch in : (
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