duron 1.3ghz no post, post, no post

[frewOFstew]

I exchanged a duron 800 100fsb, with a 1.3ghz duron, on an asus a7v 133a mobo, and first it wouldn't post...so I cleared the bios and the board gave a one long beep code (in mobo pamplet one long beep had to do with recognizing video card or something to do with video memory)...still no post...so I reseated video card and ram...and got a post...immediately went into bios to configure settings...even though 1300 was flashed during post...I still changed the clock to 12.5/13 (it was available this way) X 100 fsb...configured some other settings such as agp, etc....saved and exited and again no post...and no beep either...just like first time...put 800 duron back in and it's fine.............anyone hear of a problem with the duron 1.3? I searched the boards and found one thread with duron 1.3 and no post or display...but it didn't give enough info... I am going to try a better fan tomorrow and see if that helps...would appreciate any input related to this problem.
asus a7v 133a
duron 1.3ghz
leadtek 32mb Dh Pro video
512 pc133 sdram set at 100 in bios
300 watt psu
crappy generic fan / cpu temp 56c and rising

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by frewOfstew on 02/05/03 02:57 AM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

[Crashman]

I think the A7V133 has a problem with multiplier over 12.5. The Duron 1300 would have a multiplier of 13, which should exclude it's use if that's the case. You could unlock it an run it at 10x133.3, that would give you 1333MHz and better performance as well.

The thing does support XP processors with the BIOS update. You could run an XP at 1666MHz, that's a 2000+ if I'm not mistaken. I'm certain someone in here knows more about this than me, but mine didn't support multiplier above 12.5x.

<font color=blue>There are no stupid questions, only stupid people doling out faulty information based upon rumors, myths, and poor logic!</font color=blue>

 

[frewOFstew]

Thank You Crashman...a7v problem or limitation makes sense...I am not certain if the processor is locked or unlocked...will try your settings and see if it works, if not I will have to unlock!...Well, I've never unlocked one but I believe I would have to use a graphite pencil to connect the L1 bridges...is it as easy as this...am I putting a little pressure on the pencil (sort of making a groove) as I do this?

 

[Crashman]

Does the Duron 1.3 still use the old ceramic pin grid, or the newer plastic one?

<font color=blue>There are no stupid questions, only stupid people doling out faulty information based upon rumors, myths, and poor logic!</font color=blue>

 

[MeTaLrOcKeR]

First Crashman....it uses the Ceramic...so Pencil you CAN use to fill in the L1 bridges to unlock the chip...

Now frewOFstew.....

Ur not having ne problems, it will do that....i have the A7V133 also....and if u MANUALLY select the 12.5/13.0 it wont post........well...it wont post if the CPU isnt unlocked anyways.....as it cant determien if ur tryign to use 12.5 OR 13 and it will only work with the 13.0 setting.......

I have the same problem with my AXP 1600+ on the A7V133...its locked and if i change the Multiplier and save and exit it doesnt post ne more...i have ot reset the bios.....

so what u should do is unlock ur CPU by fillign in the L1 bridges for one....and also.....DO NOT manually select the 12.5/13.0 option......there was no point for you to do it anyways......

Another thing you SHOUDL do liek Crashman said..is after u have unlocked ur CPU....drop the Multiplier to 10.0 and raise the FSB to 133Mhz....which will give u 1333Mhz...... (1.333Ghz) it will NOTICEABLY be faster than running at 1,300Mhz (13.0 x 100Mhz FSB) and its not really overclocking...ur just givign it more bandwidth........it still wont be as fast as a Athlon or Athlon XP but close....id say a 133Mhz FSB Duron at 1333Mhz will perform like a 1GHz Athlon with 133MHz FSB........

As for the groove thign u speak of...u shouldnt be makign ne kind of grove...

just look at ur L1 bridges......ur Morgan core Duron should have 5 L1 bridges and will look like one of the following..

: : : : : ~ Locked
| | | | | ~ Unlocked

u WANT it to be Unlocked so basically just Connect the dots.....do NOT let the lines u make touch eachother....it wont fry ur processor BUT it might not post if the connections are touching so u will have to erase the lines and re-do them....

<A HREF="http://www.anandtech.com/mysystemrig.html?id=13597" target="_new">-MeTaL RoCkEr</A>

 

[frewOFstew]

Crashman, I'm pretty sure from the feel and weight (not sure if I've seen the plastic yet) that it's ceramic. Now, having read MeTaLrOcKer's post...I am sure. After, having a look at what I am to connect...I doubt there is room...to make a groove...seems like a micro-dot of space to fill...will be lucky if I can stay in the lane. Will use your multiplier numbers...it's not the first time you've helped me clock a cpu correctly...Thanks once again.

MeTaLrOcKeR, Yes, I am experiencing the same thing you had...I took a good look at the separated L1 bridge and there is a tiny horizontal groove across each one...I guess I'll have to navigate across that...seems so small!...Anyway, I want to thank you for these very clear instructions...along with the diagram!

After having a look... I will be forgetting about making any groove.

Both...I have these pencils lying around...GRAPHITE...maybe?
% matter?

 

[MeTaLrOcKeR]

good good....its very easy to do just relax ur hand so that it will be steady.....

i know its small but its quite doable(sp?)......anyways the pencil...a mechanical pencil i find works best....that or any good and sharp HB pencil...

<A HREF="http://www.anandtech.com/mysystemrig.html?id=13597" target="_new">-MeTaL RoCkEr</A>

 

[frewOFstew]

Got HB's..............will do when ready to install in mobo (at another location)...be about another day before I can give outcome...getting snow tonight...supposed to accumulate. Will bring a good eraser!

 

[Crashman]

Graphite conducts. Clay doesn't. They make "leads" harder by increasing clay content, therefore the softer the lead, the greater your chances of success.

<font color=blue>There are no stupid questions, only stupid people doling out faulty information based upon rumors, myths, and poor logic!</font color=blue>

 

[frewOFstew]

Excellent! This is why I eluded to this in the end of my last post. I didn't know...but a friend of mine said that they mixed clay with lead in varying degrees as evidenced by the number on a specific pencil. Therefore, I was wondering if it had to be a pencil marked as graphite or what number pencil would have enough conducting material. Possibly, any number graded pencil would have enough conductive material...but I felt it was better to be sure.

 

[MeTaLrOcKeR]

a Normal pencil (liek if u were to pick up a pack of 10 lets say at Wal-Mart) are HB Pencils.....HB is in the middle between Soft and Hard....and it works perfectly fine....but besides like i said b4 a Mechanical Pencil will work also......which is also HB Lead Ahrm.."Graphite"....

<A HREF="http://www.anandtech.com/mysystemrig.html?id=13597" target="_new">-MeTaL RoCkEr</A>

 

[Crashman]

LOL, yes, they mix clay with graphite and people call them "leads", even though they would at most contain only trace levels of that element.

<font color=blue>There are no stupid questions, only stupid people doling out faulty information based upon rumors, myths, and poor logic!</font color=blue>

 

[frewOFstew]

My mistake...agreed clay with graphite = "lead pencil". Oh the heck with it...I'll just use a copper green, cobalt blue or titanium white crayola.........can't miss!