TECH cirqus voltaire updated problems,please help

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

have started this new thread as other one was bogged down with too much
scattered information and now have a more accurate assesment of
problems based on tests done so would like to display them
in one post for any new lookers (as well as for previous
helpers,thanks).
would still very much appreciate any advice based on current
diagnosis,for those not familiar with my last thread about this pin,i
have looked at MARVINs guide already.
situation is game actually works and will play a full game if i
manually push ball into plunger lane,a few features dont work on
playfield like RINGMASTER ,fixed bumpers,ball trough kicker,
slingshots etc but when some things work on playfield the plunger lane
ball kicker works at the same time.
# have done a full switch test and everything works
# have done a full solenoid test and quite a few coils either dont
work,or if they do sometimes the plunger lane kicker works at the same
time (solenoid lit at end of this post)
# all fuses are good
# with game turned on have shorted out all coils at solenoid end and
they all work
# with game turned on have shorted out top of TIP102 transistors and
all (or almost all) solenoids
( AND THE RINGMASTER ) work on playfield even though they dont work in
test mode or game mode.
have taken the power driver board out of machine and tested all
transistors,and everyone tested
ok , including one i said was faulty in last thread but i was unaware
it was a different transistor and needed to be tested differently which
i done and it was ok.
thats where its at now
was told in last thread fault may be a chip in driver board or
something similar,just wondered if
anyone can point me towards the possible problem part or area based on
above info,thanks
also friend (NOT A QUALIFIED TECH) looked at game today and suggested
fault may be on actual game cpu and suggested swapping cpu over with
one out of my TWILIGHT ZONE then putting CIRQUS chips in that one just
to see if problem still appears.
i havent had much luck with interchanging gameboards and parts in the
past on video games as when i put parts back to original they never
work again so am only thinking of this as a last
resort but wonder what you guys opinion of doing that would be
anyway,thanks.
have also included previous results of solenoid test below in the hope
it may help to pinpoint
problem,please help as ive never played this game before and am hanging
out to have a go
jeff www.pinballswanted.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SOLENOID TEST-
# 01 PLUNGER does not work which is strange as it constantly works in
game mode
# 02 BACKBOX KICK does not work but plunger lane kicker does
# 03 LEFT LOOP MAGNET does not work but plunger lane kicker does
# 04 MIDDLE JET works ,so does plunger lane kicker
# 05 RAMP MAGNET works (not very well) so does plunger lane kicker,(but
ramp magnet works properly
in game mode)
# 06 DIVERTER POWER works ,so does plunger lane kicker
# 07 JET UP works ,so does plunger lane kicker
# 08 JET RELEASE works ,so does plunger lane kicker
# 09 TROUGH EJECT does not work
# 10 LEFT SLING does not work
# 11 RIGHT SLING does not work
# 12 UPPER JET doesn not work
# 13 LOWER JET does not work
# 14 LEFT SAUCER does not work
# 15 RIGHT SAUCER does not work
# 16 LOCK POST does not work
# 22 MOTOR ENABLE does not work
# 33 POPPER works ,so does plunger lane kicker
# 34 DIVERTER HOLD tries to work ,so does plunger lane kicker
# 35 RINGMASTER magnet does not work
# 36 UPPER POST works ,so does plunger lane kicker
# 39 MOTOR DIRECTION does not work

TEST 12 -FLIPPER COIL TEST
# 01 RIGHT FLIPPER POWER does not work ( but sometimes works with
limited power in game mode
,plunger lane kicker also works at same time in game mode,not in this
test mode)
# 02 RIGHT FLIPPER HOLD works ,so does plunger lane kicker
# 03 LEFT FLIPPER POWER works ,so does plunger lane kicker
# 04 LEFT FLIPPER HOLD works ,so does plunger lane kicker

TEST 16 -
UP/DOWN JET works ,so does plunger lane kicker


TEST 17 -
DIVERTER -nothing happens when tested in closed position ,when changed
to open test it tries to
work but plunger lane kicker also works and just stays on almost
permanently in this test

TEST 18 -MAGNET TESTS
RAMP MAGNET works but plunger lane kicker also works and just stays on
almost permanently in this test
LOOP MAGNET works but plunger lane kicker also works and just stays on
almost permanently in this test
RINGMASTER not sure if it works as dont know how to activate

TEST 19 -
RINGMASTER TEST nothing works ,displays message "error not found"

TEST 20 -
RAMP LOCKUP TEST balls register on switches but lock wont release

TEST 21 -
EMPTY BALLS TEST nothing happens
15 answers Last reply
More about tech cirqus voltaire updated problems please help
  1. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    pack the game up and take it to Amusement works or JM amusements or
    someone who knows what they are doing before you damage your game.
  2. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    dont swap boards with tz that is not a wpc95 game. Only can swap between
    wpc95 stuff. It sounds like a driver board issue with one or more of the
    chips. Unless you have taken chips out and put a socket in and can do it
    easily without screwing traces up give it to someone who can do it and test
    it. If you really want to find out what chips to replace I can look at my
    schematics and tell you what to possibly change.

    Trin
    <jeffiseverywhere@hotmail.com> wrote in message
    news:1119184683.069103.299980@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
    > have started this new thread as other one was bogged down with too much
    > scattered information and now have a more accurate assesment of
    > problems based on tests done so would like to display them
    > in one post for any new lookers (as well as for previous
    > helpers,thanks).
    > would still very much appreciate any advice based on current
    > diagnosis,for those not familiar with my last thread about this pin,i
    > have looked at MARVINs guide already.
    > situation is game actually works and will play a full game if i
    > manually push ball into plunger lane,a few features dont work on
    > playfield like RINGMASTER ,fixed bumpers,ball trough kicker,
    > slingshots etc but when some things work on playfield the plunger lane
    > ball kicker works at the same time.
    > # have done a full switch test and everything works
    > # have done a full solenoid test and quite a few coils either dont
    > work,or if they do sometimes the plunger lane kicker works at the same
    > time (solenoid lit at end of this post)
    > # all fuses are good
    > # with game turned on have shorted out all coils at solenoid end and
    > they all work
    > # with game turned on have shorted out top of TIP102 transistors and
    > all (or almost all) solenoids
    > ( AND THE RINGMASTER ) work on playfield even though they dont work in
    > test mode or game mode.
    > have taken the power driver board out of machine and tested all
    > transistors,and everyone tested
    > ok , including one i said was faulty in last thread but i was unaware
    > it was a different transistor and needed to be tested differently which
    > i done and it was ok.
    > thats where its at now
    > was told in last thread fault may be a chip in driver board or
    > something similar,just wondered if
    > anyone can point me towards the possible problem part or area based on
    > above info,thanks
    > also friend (NOT A QUALIFIED TECH) looked at game today and suggested
    > fault may be on actual game cpu and suggested swapping cpu over with
    > one out of my TWILIGHT ZONE then putting CIRQUS chips in that one just
    > to see if problem still appears.
    > i havent had much luck with interchanging gameboards and parts in the
    > past on video games as when i put parts back to original they never
    > work again so am only thinking of this as a last
    > resort but wonder what you guys opinion of doing that would be
    > anyway,thanks.
    > have also included previous results of solenoid test below in the hope
    > it may help to pinpoint
    > problem,please help as ive never played this game before and am hanging
    > out to have a go
    > jeff www.pinballswanted.com
    > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    > SOLENOID TEST-
    > # 01 PLUNGER does not work which is strange as it constantly works in
    > game mode
    > # 02 BACKBOX KICK does not work but plunger lane kicker does
    > # 03 LEFT LOOP MAGNET does not work but plunger lane kicker does
    > # 04 MIDDLE JET works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 05 RAMP MAGNET works (not very well) so does plunger lane kicker,(but
    > ramp magnet works properly
    > in game mode)
    > # 06 DIVERTER POWER works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 07 JET UP works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 08 JET RELEASE works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 09 TROUGH EJECT does not work
    > # 10 LEFT SLING does not work
    > # 11 RIGHT SLING does not work
    > # 12 UPPER JET doesn not work
    > # 13 LOWER JET does not work
    > # 14 LEFT SAUCER does not work
    > # 15 RIGHT SAUCER does not work
    > # 16 LOCK POST does not work
    > # 22 MOTOR ENABLE does not work
    > # 33 POPPER works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 34 DIVERTER HOLD tries to work ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 35 RINGMASTER magnet does not work
    > # 36 UPPER POST works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 39 MOTOR DIRECTION does not work
    >
    > TEST 12 -FLIPPER COIL TEST
    > # 01 RIGHT FLIPPER POWER does not work ( but sometimes works with
    > limited power in game mode
    > ,plunger lane kicker also works at same time in game mode,not in this
    > test mode)
    > # 02 RIGHT FLIPPER HOLD works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 03 LEFT FLIPPER POWER works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 04 LEFT FLIPPER HOLD works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    >
    > TEST 16 -
    > UP/DOWN JET works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    >
    >
    > TEST 17 -
    > DIVERTER -nothing happens when tested in closed position ,when changed
    > to open test it tries to
    > work but plunger lane kicker also works and just stays on almost
    > permanently in this test
    >
    > TEST 18 -MAGNET TESTS
    > RAMP MAGNET works but plunger lane kicker also works and just stays on
    > almost permanently in this test
    > LOOP MAGNET works but plunger lane kicker also works and just stays on
    > almost permanently in this test
    > RINGMASTER not sure if it works as dont know how to activate
    >
    > TEST 19 -
    > RINGMASTER TEST nothing works ,displays message "error not found"
    >
    > TEST 20 -
    > RAMP LOCKUP TEST balls register on switches but lock wont release
    >
    > TEST 21 -
    > EMPTY BALLS TEST nothing happens
    >
  3. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Have you checked Mr. Pinball's collector register to see if someone local
    can help you ? You really sound like you are in over your head on this one.
    And the problems may have started simple like connectors on backwards or
    something. LTG :)
  4. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    >have started this new thread as other one was
    >bogged down with too much scattered information

    I highly suggest you have someone local help you fix this game at this
    point. You had many people helping you fix this via RGP and it seems
    that your troubleshooting skills are not up to par for this task.

    time to bring in a fresh pair of eyes.

    Kirb
  5. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    okay fathers thing done, so check to see if the led's are on for the 7
    switch opto board under playfield and the bi-directional driver board for
    ringmaster, both led's should be on. Looking at schematic, it looks like
    U4, U5, U7 on driver board all 74LS374 could be causing problem, might only
    be U7, but I have not seen these fail yet. So if led's are on or off, how
    did you check fuses. Pull up each fuse at least one side, but I would take
    each fuse out for coils one at a time and twist both ends make sure silver
    ends are not loose and fuse is good then put back in one at a time. If
    led's are off then you have a 12volt problem from driver board. Post back

    Trin
    <jeffiseverywhere@hotmail.com> wrote in message
    news:1119184683.069103.299980@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
    > have started this new thread as other one was bogged down with too much
    > scattered information and now have a more accurate assesment of
    > problems based on tests done so would like to display them
    > in one post for any new lookers (as well as for previous
    > helpers,thanks).
    > would still very much appreciate any advice based on current
    > diagnosis,for those not familiar with my last thread about this pin,i
    > have looked at MARVINs guide already.
    > situation is game actually works and will play a full game if i
    > manually push ball into plunger lane,a few features dont work on
    > playfield like RINGMASTER ,fixed bumpers,ball trough kicker,
    > slingshots etc but when some things work on playfield the plunger lane
    > ball kicker works at the same time.
    > # have done a full switch test and everything works
    > # have done a full solenoid test and quite a few coils either dont
    > work,or if they do sometimes the plunger lane kicker works at the same
    > time (solenoid lit at end of this post)
    > # all fuses are good
    > # with game turned on have shorted out all coils at solenoid end and
    > they all work
    > # with game turned on have shorted out top of TIP102 transistors and
    > all (or almost all) solenoids
    > ( AND THE RINGMASTER ) work on playfield even though they dont work in
    > test mode or game mode.
    > have taken the power driver board out of machine and tested all
    > transistors,and everyone tested
    > ok , including one i said was faulty in last thread but i was unaware
    > it was a different transistor and needed to be tested differently which
    > i done and it was ok.
    > thats where its at now
    > was told in last thread fault may be a chip in driver board or
    > something similar,just wondered if
    > anyone can point me towards the possible problem part or area based on
    > above info,thanks
    > also friend (NOT A QUALIFIED TECH) looked at game today and suggested
    > fault may be on actual game cpu and suggested swapping cpu over with
    > one out of my TWILIGHT ZONE then putting CIRQUS chips in that one just
    > to see if problem still appears.
    > i havent had much luck with interchanging gameboards and parts in the
    > past on video games as when i put parts back to original they never
    > work again so am only thinking of this as a last
    > resort but wonder what you guys opinion of doing that would be
    > anyway,thanks.
    > have also included previous results of solenoid test below in the hope
    > it may help to pinpoint
    > problem,please help as ive never played this game before and am hanging
    > out to have a go
    > jeff www.pinballswanted.com
    > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    > SOLENOID TEST-
    > # 01 PLUNGER does not work which is strange as it constantly works in
    > game mode
    > # 02 BACKBOX KICK does not work but plunger lane kicker does
    > # 03 LEFT LOOP MAGNET does not work but plunger lane kicker does
    > # 04 MIDDLE JET works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 05 RAMP MAGNET works (not very well) so does plunger lane kicker,(but
    > ramp magnet works properly
    > in game mode)
    > # 06 DIVERTER POWER works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 07 JET UP works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 08 JET RELEASE works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 09 TROUGH EJECT does not work
    > # 10 LEFT SLING does not work
    > # 11 RIGHT SLING does not work
    > # 12 UPPER JET doesn not work
    > # 13 LOWER JET does not work
    > # 14 LEFT SAUCER does not work
    > # 15 RIGHT SAUCER does not work
    > # 16 LOCK POST does not work
    > # 22 MOTOR ENABLE does not work
    > # 33 POPPER works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 34 DIVERTER HOLD tries to work ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 35 RINGMASTER magnet does not work
    > # 36 UPPER POST works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 39 MOTOR DIRECTION does not work
    >
    > TEST 12 -FLIPPER COIL TEST
    > # 01 RIGHT FLIPPER POWER does not work ( but sometimes works with
    > limited power in game mode
    > ,plunger lane kicker also works at same time in game mode,not in this
    > test mode)
    > # 02 RIGHT FLIPPER HOLD works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 03 LEFT FLIPPER POWER works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    > # 04 LEFT FLIPPER HOLD works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    >
    > TEST 16 -
    > UP/DOWN JET works ,so does plunger lane kicker
    >
    >
    > TEST 17 -
    > DIVERTER -nothing happens when tested in closed position ,when changed
    > to open test it tries to
    > work but plunger lane kicker also works and just stays on almost
    > permanently in this test
    >
    > TEST 18 -MAGNET TESTS
    > RAMP MAGNET works but plunger lane kicker also works and just stays on
    > almost permanently in this test
    > LOOP MAGNET works but plunger lane kicker also works and just stays on
    > almost permanently in this test
    > RINGMASTER not sure if it works as dont know how to activate
    >
    > TEST 19 -
    > RINGMASTER TEST nothing works ,displays message "error not found"
    >
    > TEST 20 -
    > RAMP LOCKUP TEST balls register on switches but lock wont release
    >
    > TEST 21 -
    > EMPTY BALLS TEST nothing happens
    >
  6. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    will do what you suggested TRINITY and report back,thanks
    with the fuses i removed them all from board and tested,when i pulled
    them out of holders it was from one end which i guess would have put
    added stress on fuses and tested them afterwards ,all were fine,then i
    retested again when mounted back in the board.
    one thing is now it seems to be popping fuse 103 which is a 4 amp but
    not all the time,and when i originally bought game it had a 10 amp fuse
    fitted which wasnt blown ,so i replaced it with correct 4 amp and it
    worked fine for a couple of days ,then it blew.
    so i replaced with another 4 amp and it was fine for a couple of
    days,then it blew again.
    ive got a 4 amp fast blo in there and wonder can anyone tell me if it
    should have a slo blo and that would make the difference as i cant find
    that info in the manual or in the fuse list in headboard.
    please dont take this next bit as a slap in the face as its not my
    intention but i do agree that this may be over my head as far as
    pinpointing problem is,
    thats why ive posted on here for help from others with more experience.
    am not prepared to admit its over my head on the repair side of things
    without at least knowing what the problem may be and what part(s) to
    replace,if it is beyond my repair capabilities i will take it to
    someone who knows what there doing rather than risk further damage.
    another reason is i am definetely not loaded so trying to repair it
    myself in interest of saving some money,or if i cant repair it at least
    narrow down problem area for repair guy rather than pay him for extra
    troubleshooting time.
    thats why your help is much appreciated,thanks
  7. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    >So looking like coil or transistor problem at this pointe.

    Why are none of his other coils working?

    I would move each coil by hand to make sure the tubing isn't all fried
    inside the coil which would be a dead giveaway to a bad transistor and
    coil. A bad coil diode is going to be a harder find.

    Kirb
  8. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    When you had the board out and checked all the transistors, could you
    see any IC chips that had been changed, particularly any of the 74LS374
    chips? If so I'd start looking closely around them for solder bridges
    on any sign of a hack job. The problem you have here is not your
    everyday run of the mill type of thing. I think someone in trying to do
    repairs previously has done something very wrong.
  9. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    okay, good to know, someone had a problem so they over amped it. 4amp slo
    blo is what you need. that runs coils 1through 8 which is part of your
    problem so maybe we just have a transistor problem or a coil/diode problem
    for that section. Do you have the book? You need a meter. Looks like
    three of those are magnets in the 1-8. Put meter on ohms and take a reading
    on each of the eight suspects here. All magnets should read close to the
    same reading, if they do then you know they are all good. 23-800 coils will
    read about 3.8 to 4.1 or so ohms, for coils check to see if diodes are broke
    off or loose not soldered good. The sm126-600 coil is going to read higher
    than most if remember right, if you need I can read what mine says, if not
    sure what a coil reads then compare it to one of the others to get reference
    reading. If all this checkouts, while you are taking readings check for
    wires almost comming off lugs or a possible daisy chain that is off and
    maybe touching something else. Check to see if light sockets are not
    touching or too near coils etc. Take you time on this. It sounds like you
    have one maybe more bad coil, or magnet and it is blowing fuse. Other
    possibility is one of the transistors is partially dead causing fuse to
    blow. Only way to tell for sure is to take a reading off each leg and
    compare to others, sure the transistor can still fire the coil or turn
    magnet on even if only partially working but if it is leaky maybe it takes 5
    or 10 pops of the coil or magnet before it stresses the fuse, that is why
    someone over fused it. So looking like coil or transistor problem at this
    pointe.

    Trin
    <jeffiseverywhere@hotmail.com> wrote in message
    news:1119271403.149457.64250@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
    > will do what you suggested TRINITY and report back,thanks
    > with the fuses i removed them all from board and tested,when i pulled
    > them out of holders it was from one end which i guess would have put
    > added stress on fuses and tested them afterwards ,all were fine,then i
    > retested again when mounted back in the board.
    > one thing is now it seems to be popping fuse 103 which is a 4 amp but
    > not all the time,and when i originally bought game it had a 10 amp fuse
    > fitted which wasnt blown ,so i replaced it with correct 4 amp and it
    > worked fine for a couple of days ,then it blew.
    > so i replaced with another 4 amp and it was fine for a couple of
    > days,then it blew again.
    > ive got a 4 amp fast blo in there and wonder can anyone tell me if it
    > should have a slo blo and that would make the difference as i cant find
    > that info in the manual or in the fuse list in headboard.
    > please dont take this next bit as a slap in the face as its not my
    > intention but i do agree that this may be over my head as far as
    > pinpointing problem is,
    > thats why ive posted on here for help from others with more experience.
    > am not prepared to admit its over my head on the repair side of things
    > without at least knowing what the problem may be and what part(s) to
    > replace,if it is beyond my repair capabilities i will take it to
    > someone who knows what there doing rather than risk further damage.
    > another reason is i am definetely not loaded so trying to repair it
    > myself in interest of saving some money,or if i cant repair it at least
    > narrow down problem area for repair guy rather than pay him for extra
    > troubleshooting time.
    > thats why your help is much appreciated,thanks
    >
  10. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    kirb I'm trying to help him figure out coils 1-8 at this pointe cause
    someone over fused that puppy, then we can move on to the others. Good
    suggestion on checking for fried coils. You will also have to unplug
    magnets and stick meter in molex to get reading.

    Trin
    "kirb" <kirbseepe@yahoo.com> wrote in message
    news:1119290017.714720.184000@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
    > >So looking like coil or transistor problem at this pointe.
    >
    > Why are none of his other coils working?
    >
    > I would move each coil by hand to make sure the tubing isn't all fried
    > inside the coil which would be a dead giveaway to a bad transistor and
    > coil. A bad coil diode is going to be a harder find.
    >
    > Kirb
    >
  11. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    ok guys,
    in answer to peoples questions firstly TRINITY
    both LEDs light up under playield for the 7
    switch opto board under playfield and the bi-directional driver board
    for
    ringmaster.
    yes i have the manual for game
    checked 3 magnets on playield with them unplugged
    LEFT LOOP MAGNET was about 4.9 ohms
    RAMP MAGNET WAS about 4.9 ohms
    RINGMASTER MAGNET was reading 0 ohms at connector but when i took took
    reading from actual magnet
    in head it came back with about 4.9 ohms
    then doublechecked connector and still zero reading,after that checked
    for continuity between connector and magnet ,results were yellow/grey
    wire had continuity but red/grey wire did not
    so looks like something faulty here but if i am reading manual
    correctly RINGMASTER MAGNET isnt part of fuse 103 line that pops
    randomly.
    also checked solenoids with multimeter and all readings were consistent
    between same rated coils
    and had a quick look at globes in relation to wires touching,seen
    nothing suspect,will have a more detailed look in next few days.
    next done KIRBs moving each coil by hand test and all were relatively
    free with the exception of right hand upper bumper which was only very
    slightly binding and coil didnt appear to have been hot at any stage
    purely from appearance of paper wrapper.
    with RonKZ650s question if any chips have been replaced,it appears as
    if chips U6 and U7 have either been replaced or resoldered on power
    driver board as there is evidence of fresh solder on back of
    board,there part numbers are both SN74HC374N
    and have included a couple of pics of back of power driver board as
    well as front of power driver board in area where chips were replaced
    as it looks like some wires have been added on both sides and im hoping
    that whatever it is for,it has been done correctly,
    white wire on parts side of pcb goes from corner of chip U4 to same
    corner of chip on U3 ,and blue wire goes from R82 to a trace on board
    and looks like it may have been done to replace a track
    although track doesnt look too bad,
    so thats what im at now,thanks
    http://pinballswanted.com/images/cirquspcb1.JPG
    http://pinballswanted.com/images/cirquspcb2.JPG
  12. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Ahh Haaa, thanks for pictures, at first I said it could have been the 374
    chips but I have never seen them replaced yet, guess I was wrong. The
    driver board is probably your problem. Thoses chips should be resocketed by
    someone who is good at that and new chips put in. Looks like they were
    messing with transistors as well. If you don't feel comfortable doing it
    yourself then send it to Clive or someone who can do it. Clive at coin op
    cauldron is very good and very reasonable. I would offer but he is cheaper.

    Trin
    <jeffiseverywhere@hotmail.com> wrote in message
    news:1119356779.206153.55750@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
    > ok guys,
    > in answer to peoples questions firstly TRINITY
    > both LEDs light up under playield for the 7
    > switch opto board under playfield and the bi-directional driver board
    > for
    > ringmaster.
    > yes i have the manual for game
    > checked 3 magnets on playield with them unplugged
    > LEFT LOOP MAGNET was about 4.9 ohms
    > RAMP MAGNET WAS about 4.9 ohms
    > RINGMASTER MAGNET was reading 0 ohms at connector but when i took took
    > reading from actual magnet
    > in head it came back with about 4.9 ohms
    > then doublechecked connector and still zero reading,after that checked
    > for continuity between connector and magnet ,results were yellow/grey
    > wire had continuity but red/grey wire did not
    > so looks like something faulty here but if i am reading manual
    > correctly RINGMASTER MAGNET isnt part of fuse 103 line that pops
    > randomly.
    > also checked solenoids with multimeter and all readings were consistent
    > between same rated coils
    > and had a quick look at globes in relation to wires touching,seen
    > nothing suspect,will have a more detailed look in next few days.
    > next done KIRBs moving each coil by hand test and all were relatively
    > free with the exception of right hand upper bumper which was only very
    > slightly binding and coil didnt appear to have been hot at any stage
    > purely from appearance of paper wrapper.
    > with RonKZ650s question if any chips have been replaced,it appears as
    > if chips U6 and U7 have either been replaced or resoldered on power
    > driver board as there is evidence of fresh solder on back of
    > board,there part numbers are both SN74HC374N
    > and have included a couple of pics of back of power driver board as
    > well as front of power driver board in area where chips were replaced
    > as it looks like some wires have been added on both sides and im hoping
    > that whatever it is for,it has been done correctly,
    > white wire on parts side of pcb goes from corner of chip U4 to same
    > corner of chip on U3 ,and blue wire goes from R82 to a trace on board
    > and looks like it may have been done to replace a track
    > although track doesnt look too bad,
    > so thats what im at now,thanks
    > http://pinballswanted.com/images/cirquspcb1.JPG
    > http://pinballswanted.com/images/cirquspcb2.JPG
    >
  13. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Trinity wrote:
    > Ahh Haaa, thanks for pictures, at first I said it could have been the 374
    > chips but I have never seen them replaced yet, guess I was wrong. The
    > driver board is probably your problem. Thoses chips should be resocketed by
    > someone who is good at that and new chips put in. Looks like they were
    > messing with transistors as well. If you don't feel comfortable doing it
    > yourself then send it to Clive or someone who can do it. Clive at coin op
    > cauldron is very good and very reasonable. I would offer but he is cheaper.
    >
    > Trin

    do you think it would be best if i just get them 2 chips replaced with
    some new ones and put sockets in them postions rather than heat up
    chips,not sure how easy they are to get though (especially over here)
    probably wont take pcb to clive as worried about plane crashing or boat
    sinking
    forgot to mention but im in Australia,
    thanks TRIN
  14. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Is there a problem getting chips down under? If you feel comfy with putting
    in new sockets go for it, but when old chips are removed look at the solder
    points on top and bottom of board and map it out so that when you put socket
    in you can check to see if you have continuity to the other chips or
    wherever the track goes to, only then can you be sure the socket is good and
    then put in your new chips. Go to www.findchips.com and punch in the number
    if you don't have a local electronics supply house and order from whoever
    has the right part at best price. I would deff check every part that was
    replaced. Now this does not mean that those two chips are the only problem
    so order a couple more sockets and two extra chips cause one of the others
    may be bad. And comon plane crashing, are you just being cheap? I give you
    credit for trying so good luck and maybe start a new post if you need more
    help cause this one is far down the list already and I usually don't read
    this far down. Just hate to see a CV not getting played, best pin ever.

    Trin
    <jeffiseverywhere@hotmail.com> wrote in message
    news:1119394226.799462.183860@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
    >
    >
    > Trinity wrote:
    >> Ahh Haaa, thanks for pictures, at first I said it could have been the 374
    >> chips but I have never seen them replaced yet, guess I was wrong. The
    >> driver board is probably your problem. Thoses chips should be resocketed
    >> by
    >> someone who is good at that and new chips put in. Looks like they were
    >> messing with transistors as well. If you don't feel comfortable doing it
    >> yourself then send it to Clive or someone who can do it. Clive at coin
    >> op
    >> cauldron is very good and very reasonable. I would offer but he is
    >> cheaper.
    >>
    >> Trin
    >
    > do you think it would be best if i just get them 2 chips replaced with
    > some new ones and put sockets in them postions rather than heat up
    > chips,not sure how easy they are to get though (especially over here)
    > probably wont take pcb to clive as worried about plane crashing or boat
    > sinking
    > forgot to mention but im in Australia,
    > thanks TRIN
    >
  15. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    no worries then TRIN
    thanks very much for yours and everyone elses help
    may get someone else to solder in chip holders over the next week or
    however
    long it takes to get the chips.
    will make a new post when this is all done, hopefully with some great
    news.
    it looks and feels like an awesome game so am really really looking
    forward to
    playing this baby,
    thanks again everyone,
    jeff
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