Removing mylar

G

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I did some searching but could not find the answer to this question.
Maybe it is obvious but not to me.

I want to remove the mylar on my Grand Lizard. The goof ball that
installed it did not do it in one piece. He/she did it in like 5
pieces in the lower PF.

My question is when i do the freeze method, I turn the can upside down
and shoot that air out... Do I aim the air towards the top of the
mylar, or do i aim it on an angle like I am trying to get it inbetween
the mylar and the PF?

How do I know when I can start peeling the mylar back and how do I know
when to stopand shoot more air? What will I see that says STOP, shoot
more air? Once I get the corner up, do i shoot the air under the mylar
or on top of it to freeze it from the top.?

Thanks,

Mike
 
G

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shoot it from the top, you want to freeze the NEXT piece you take off,
not what's already off. For system 11 I think the hair dryer method
works better but YMMV. If there is ANY resistence to the mylar peeling
off, STOP! and refreeze. Be super careful around inserts, if you go
too fast it will take the lettering off the insert instantly.

Good luck!! Hopefully the mylar won't have been put on with brushed on
glue like one PF I had (pf was sold for parts because the mylar just
trashed it)
 
G

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What does the mylar look like when you have frozen it? Just wondering
so i know that it is ok to peel. Does it curl or anything?
 

Scott

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Mike,
I just got done doing a SuperSonic on Saturday night with this method.
Shoot the can directly down at the Mylar. You need a corner to start
with. I used a pair of needle nose plyers to hold the tiny section of
the corner (otherwise your fingers will get COLD when you spray).
Spray and the mylar will EASILY pull righ up. When the mylar doesn't
pull easily up then you need to spray again.

The hardest parts are:
* not pulling too much/hard - you won't believe how EASY it will come
up
* getting the mylar started. you may want to use a blow dryer to
loosen up a corner. luckily, for older mylar this is usually a small
section somewhere that you can start with.

I used GOOF OFF to remove the glue residue. Spray it on and let it set
for a minute or two. Then use your fingers OR a credit card to "roll
up" the glue. You'll get LOTS of booger balls. Have a paper towl
close by to stick your booger balls onto. Keep repeating until the
glue residue is gone. Your fingers will be tired.
Later
 
G

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Thanks Seymour and Otto. I will give it a shot. For the spray, should
I just get compressed air like you would use to blow off dust on the
keyboard and turn it upside down?

How many cans? 3-5?
 
G

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Thanks Scott. I now have a project for tonight and tommorrow night :>)
 
G

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Don't use Goof off that will remove the playfield ink. Use GOO GONE
 
G

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Ive recently removed mylar from a GL. The factory/op install would be
3 seperate pieces for the lower playfield. I used a hair dryer and
most of it removed effortlessly. If you get a tiny section of paint
that lifts, then stop right there, apply a tiny amount of super glue to
the bare (lifted area) and place the lifted paint back down. I
couldn't believe how well it worked and you can't even notice that it
happened. Be extremely careful removing the mylars in front of the
slings. Those gave me the most trouble (especially the right side,
which required significant touch up).

-Gregg
 
G

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Be very very careful when using Goof Off - it will remove the paint if
it sits too long. I prefer to use Goo Gone, which takes a bit longer,
but I've never heard of it eating paint off the playfield

Do a RGP search on Goof Off, and you'll understand why a lot of folks
won't use it.



-

http://www.myhomegameroom.com


scott@farrar.com wrote:
> Mike,
> I just got done doing a SuperSonic on Saturday night with this method.
> Shoot the can directly down at the Mylar. You need a corner to start
> with. I used a pair of needle nose plyers to hold the tiny section of
> the corner (otherwise your fingers will get COLD when you spray).
> Spray and the mylar will EASILY pull righ up. When the mylar doesn't
> pull easily up then you need to spray again.
>
> The hardest parts are:
> * not pulling too much/hard - you won't believe how EASY it will come
> up
> * getting the mylar started. you may want to use a blow dryer to
> loosen up a corner. luckily, for older mylar this is usually a small
> section somewhere that you can start with.
>
> I used GOOF OFF to remove the glue residue. Spray it on and let it set
> for a minute or two. Then use your fingers OR a credit card to "roll
> up" the glue. You'll get LOTS of booger balls. Have a paper towl
> close by to stick your booger balls onto. Keep repeating until the
> glue residue is gone. Your fingers will be tired.
> Later
>
 

otto

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Pick a small area near an edge/corner.

Aim it at the top of the mylar.

You are freezing the mylar and the adhesive underneath.

It will get brittle and start at an edge with an exacto or something precise
and prick up the edge. Then keep moving along with the freeze on top of the
mylar. You will see the mylar turn white. Let the freeze work for 5-10
seconds. It should not take much pull. It will just start popping up with
light pressure. Be careful to not freeze your fingers. If you have to pull
hard--STOP--more freeze. If you pull hard you may damage your playfield.

The adhesive will be left behind. Use Goo Gone. Let it work also. 5-10
minutes works good. Use liberal amounts. Soak the adhesive. Plastic razors
or scrapers work good for bringing it up after the Goo Gone has cooked on
it.

Clean up the final little bits with Goo Gone and a soft rag.

Then Naptha and a soft rag.

Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

<caligallagher@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1119286439.137296.239200@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
>I did some searching but could not find the answer to this question.
> Maybe it is obvious but not to me.
>
> I want to remove the mylar on my Grand Lizard. The goof ball that
> installed it did not do it in one piece. He/she did it in like 5
> pieces in the lower PF.
>
> My question is when i do the freeze method, I turn the can upside down
> and shoot that air out... Do I aim the air towards the top of the
> mylar, or do i aim it on an angle like I am trying to get it inbetween
> the mylar and the PF?
>
> How do I know when I can start peeling the mylar back and how do I know
> when to stopand shoot more air? What will I see that says STOP, shoot
> more air? Once I get the corner up, do i shoot the air under the mylar
> or on top of it to freeze it from the top.?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
 

otto

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It turns whitish and powdery looking--frozen. It will not curl. When you get
under the edge/corner with the exacto it will start popping up with light
pull. The mylar will be brittle(frozen) until it reaches room temp later on.
If you use enough freeze you should be able to get the entire piece off in a
single piece. If it is breaking you are probably using too little freeze and
too much pull--this will casue damage.

That spray will freeze your finger tips.

Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

<caligallagher@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1119287198.451143.160290@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> What does the mylar look like when you have frozen it? Just wondering
> so i know that it is ok to peel. Does it curl or anything?
>
 

otto

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Compressed air held upside down. Same stuff just a different delivery
mechanism.

I would not let the goof off get anywhere near my playfield for any reason.

You want Goo Gone.

Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

<caligallagher@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1119287534.939094.179480@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Thanks Seymour and Otto. I will give it a shot. For the spray, should
> I just get compressed air like you would use to blow off dust on the
> keyboard and turn it upside down?
>
> How many cans? 3-5?
>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Gregg, I suggest you read all the other posts about using freeze spray, you
shouldn't be losing that much paint.

GRY

<gixxerdude1000@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1119295110.559944.130650@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> Ive recently removed mylar from a GL. The factory/op install would be
> 3 seperate pieces for the lower playfield. I used a hair dryer and
> most of it removed effortlessly. If you get a tiny section of paint
> that lifts, then stop right there, apply a tiny amount of super glue to
> the bare (lifted area) and place the lifted paint back down. I
> couldn't believe how well it worked and you can't even notice that it
> happened. Be extremely careful removing the mylars in front of the
> slings. Those gave me the most trouble (especially the right side,
> which required significant touch up).
>
> -Gregg
>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Man it works awsome. Absolutly ZERO paint loss. Only complaint is you
need a lot of the compressed air to do a Grand Lizard. I only bought 2
cans so I will have to get more tommorrow. I have to find a cheaper
place. Office depot wanted 12$ for 2 cans. I need atleast 4 more!!!!

Hers a tip I learned and probably everyone knows this: DO NOT PUT A
PIECE BACK DOWN ONCE YOU HAVE IT UP TO ANSWER YOUR CELL PHONE. Yep, I
sure did it.
 

martin

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I second the "lifts easy" part. It comes off like it wasn't even stuck
down, and leaves a perfect layer of shiny glue on the playfield. I also
second the other comments on using goo gone not goof off. Goof off is a
bit aggressive and might surprise you in a nasty way.

scott@farrar.com wrote:
> Mike,
> I just got done doing a SuperSonic on Saturday night with this method.
> Shoot the can directly down at the Mylar. You need a corner to start
> with. I used a pair of needle nose plyers to hold the tiny section of
> the corner (otherwise your fingers will get COLD when you spray).
> Spray and the mylar will EASILY pull righ up. When the mylar doesn't
> pull easily up then you need to spray again.
>
> The hardest parts are:
> * not pulling too much/hard - you won't believe how EASY it will come
> up
> * getting the mylar started. you may want to use a blow dryer to
> loosen up a corner. luckily, for older mylar this is usually a small
> section somewhere that you can start with.
>
> I used GOOF OFF to remove the glue residue. Spray it on and let it set
> for a minute or two. Then use your fingers OR a credit card to "roll
> up" the glue. You'll get LOTS of booger balls. Have a paper towl
> close by to stick your booger balls onto. Keep repeating until the
> glue residue is gone. Your fingers will be tired.
> Later
 

otto

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Costco or Fryes is usually pretty cheap for the bulk pack.

Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

<caligallagher@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1119311267.777258.67370@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> Man it works awsome. Absolutly ZERO paint loss. Only complaint is you
> need a lot of the compressed air to do a Grand Lizard. I only bought 2
> cans so I will have to get more tommorrow. I have to find a cheaper
> place. Office depot wanted 12$ for 2 cans. I need atleast 4 more!!!!
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I found that Staples has them for $6.94 for a 2 pack. 10 oz cans Sale
is thru 6/25/05