afm strobe capacitor question

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Hi guys,

On my AFM strobe controller board the C1 capacitor is bad.
I cut it off but now wondered how to replace it..

These axial caps have a + and - side, right ?
Because there's nothing noted on the pcb or on the caps
(C1 and C2 are just black with in white 100v 100mf written on them).

C3 and C4 on the contrary are the 'normal' blue version with - side
marked and the pcb also has the + side marked.
(and I have one like these as a replacement for the bad C1)

So, can anyone tell me what side is what for the C1 and C2 cap ??

My only guess to see what side is what: the cap itself has one side
which is indented (probably so the machine can grab it to solder it
automatically) and on the blue caps this is the + side.
Is this normal for every capacitor and also for C1 and C2 ?
(in that case they're reversed installed compared to C3 and C4).

Aeneas.

 

[pt]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Aeneas,

C1 and C2 are non-polarized caps. If you look at the schematic the
polarity is not noted as the others are. Also, C1 and C2 are marked
"NP" on the schematic. Depending on the specifications of the caps you
have as replacements, you may want to buy some non-polarized caps
instead. Some polarized caps don't like to be reversed biased with an
a/c signal...

Here are the schematics:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/­~zeecarr2/STROBE.pdf

Also, here is my long-winded troubleshooting guide:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/­~zeecarr2/AFM.doc

Good luck
John

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

OK thanks !
I thought all caps were polarized, guess I was wrong
I'll get the correct ones tomorrow then.

Aeneas.

 

[munch]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Aeneas Verhe wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
> On my AFM strobe controller board the C1 capacitor is bad.
> I cut it off but now wondered how to replace it..
>
> These axial caps have a + and - side, right ?
> Because there's nothing noted on the pcb or on the caps
> (C1 and C2 are just black with in white 100v 100mf written on them).
>
> C3 and C4 on the contrary are the 'normal' blue version with - side
> marked and the pcb also has the + side marked.
> (and I have one like these as a replacement for the bad C1)
>
> So, can anyone tell me what side is what for the C1 and C2 cap ??
>
> My only guess to see what side is what: the cap itself has one side
> which is indented (probably so the machine can grab it to solder it
> automatically) and on the blue caps this is the + side.
> Is this normal for every capacitor and also for C1 and C2 ?
> (in that case they're reversed installed compared to C3 and C4).
>
> Aeneas.


C1 and C2 are "non polarized".

I replaced both of them because they were leaking slightly of my AFM.

Don't put a polarized cap in place of a non polarized one.

I found a direct replacement 100v 100uf axial cap at my local
electronics shop.

While you have the strobe board apart, resolder the leads on the blue
transistor and put a dab of glue between it and the board to secure it
better.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

>
> I replaced both of them because they were leaking slightly of my AFM.
>


What happens if a leaking cap is not replaced? Can it damage anything
else?

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

On 28 Jun 2005 07:33:44 -0700, "Cokey" <cokeyblokey@gmail.com> wrote:

>
>>
>> I replaced both of them because they were leaking slightly of my AFM.
>>
>
>
>What happens if a leaking cap is not replaced? Can it damage anything
>else?

yes - I once heard the fluid inside capacitors is also corrosive so it
will damage other components and eat away traces.
Similar to what a leaked battery does.

I have no idea however how you can neutralise it (also with vinager
??).

Aeneas.