Just got my first SS. It's a BSD.

G

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Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

My first solid state pin! Man this thing plays a lot faster than I
remember. I was wondering is their a high tap setting or some setting I
can change to make the ball plunger etc a little weaker?

Also, the displays bottom 2 & side 2 rows aren't working. I tried
reseating the connectors in the head but it didn't help. Will I have to
replace or fix the display screen or would one of the other boards
cause this?

Thanks in advance

Chas
 
G

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Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Check the pins on the DMD itself and make sure they have not physically
broken off from the DMD itself. If so, it's nearly impossible to fix
this without replaceing the DMD. Also check the solder joints on the
pins too. Good luck with it.

Mike
 
G

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Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Your DMD rows not working. Check the ribbon going into the DMD glass for
cracks or breaks. This can be carefully soldered or fixed with an electrical
conductive epoxy. Don't short out other rows when you do this. LTG :)

"m6onz5a" <corvair@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1120678377.312458.61470@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> My first solid state pin! Man this thing plays a lot faster than I
> remember. I was wondering is their a high tap setting or some setting I
> can change to make the ball plunger etc a little weaker?
>
> Also, the displays bottom 2 & side 2 rows aren't working. I tried
> reseating the connectors in the head but it didn't help. Will I have to
> replace or fix the display screen or would one of the other boards
> cause this?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Chas
>
 
G

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Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I've checked the pins & also check the ribbon cable for cracks etc..
Found nothing. I was able to get 1 row to flicker a bit but that is it.
And at best the 1 row I did get to flicker was dim at best. Sigh.

Chas
 
G

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Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Thanks! Will check it.

Chas

"Lloyd Olson" wrote:
>Your DMD rows not working. Check the ribbon going into the DMD glass
for
>cracks or breaks. This can be carefully soldered or fixed with an
electrical
>conductive epoxy. Don't short out other rows when you do this. LTG :)
>
>"m6onz5a" <corvair@comcast.net> wrote in message
>news:1120678377.312458.61470@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
>> My first solid state pin! Man this thing plays a lot faster than I
>> remember. I was wondering is their a high tap setting or some setting
I
>> can change to make the ball plunger etc a little weaker?
>>
>> Also, the displays bottom 2 & side 2 rows aren't working. I tried
>> reseating the connectors in the head but it didn't help. Will I have
to
>> replace or fix the display screen or would one of the other boards
>> cause this?
>>
>> Thanks in advance
>>
>> Chas
>>
>
>



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G

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You could try jumpering another row to the one that's out to see if
it'll show (might want to desolder the row you're jumpering). If that
works then it's probably one of the components related to that row
rather than the DMD itself. (i.e. if row X is out but row Y works,
jumper row Y to row X to see if what would normally appear on Y now
appears on X. You'll probably want to desolder Y for this test)

Good luck.

Mike
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Really you shouldn't go so nuts here fumbling with cables etc. Chances
are your DMD just has 4 lines out- this is EXTREMEMLY common on the old
DMDs. In fact my BSD had the same issue. You might be able to fix it
with silver epoxy, but chances are you'll just end up spending a not
outrageous $120 on a new DMD. It's not the end of the world - and hey
your BSD will be set for life in the DMD department.



m6onz5a wrote:
> Good idea! Thanks!
>
> I did plan to take the DMD off and check the solder joints but I'll
> check that too.
>
> Chas
>
> "Mike Messersmith" wrote:
> >You could try jumpering another row to the one that's out to see if
> >it'll show (might want to desolder the row you're jumpering). If that
> >works then it's probably one of the components related to that row
> >rather than the DMD itself. (i.e. if row X is out but row Y works,
> >jumper row Y to row X to see if what would normally appear on Y now
> >appears on X. You'll probably want to desolder Y for this test)
> >
> >Good luck.
> >
> >Mike
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Sent via Gamer Newsgroups
> http://www.gamernewsgroups.com
 
G

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I'm not going to go too nuts. Since it's the lower two it doesn't
bother me all that much.. It just irks me when people are dishonest.

I have a pic of the head and I can see the two bottom rows are not
working (at least it looks like it to me) and he tells me It was
working when it left. And the game was supposed to be working 100% w/o
broken plastics but I've found 2 broken & 2 cracked. No biggie though I
just wish the description said it. Also had to adjust the Mist ball
load ramp. It was rubbing causing it to stick. And the middle ball ramp
switch was stuck.. I'm still happy with my purchase for the most part.
Just hate being mislead.
 
G

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Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Good idea! Thanks!

I did plan to take the DMD off and check the solder joints but I'll
check that too.

Chas

"Mike Messersmith" wrote:
>You could try jumpering another row to the one that's out to see if
>it'll show (might want to desolder the row you're jumpering). If that
>works then it's probably one of the components related to that row
>rather than the DMD itself. (i.e. if row X is out but row Y works,
>jumper row Y to row X to see if what would normally appear on Y now
>appears on X. You'll probably want to desolder Y for this test)
>
>Good luck.
>
>Mike
>



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Well I got my DMD yesterday. Now I can acutally see what ball I'm on.
Sure beats guessing.

Chas