TECH: Gottlieb Sys 3 driver board repair

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Hi
I am troubleshooting a Stargate solenoid problem as follows:
No right slingshot action.

Resistor between leads was loose and soldered with no change ( solenoid
doesn't energize but switch functions correctly.

Current across fuse always on, check the transistor. Seems not factory
soldered and repaired badly. Solder across all leads and splattered on
the board. Could it have melted?

I have done computer boards before but first pin. Any reason I can't
just clean, replace and test or is there some other problem lurking
upstream?

Thnaks, Google not friendly to Gottlieb SYS 3

Jack James

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

You're dealing with a MOSFET, not a transistor. Do you have the
manual? Use the schematic to identify the leads to the connector, or
just follow the traces. Ground the lead that goes back to the driver
board and see if it fires. Naturally if it does then the problem is
just the driver circuitry. Is the coil OK? If it's fried, changing
the MOSFET will only result in more destruction.

There is no resistor between leads on a coil. There is however a
diode. I think my best advise here is:

Go to Clay's guides, (google for them), and get a primer on repairing
and testing pinball boards.

Mario
Pinthetic

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Grounding the lead for the left ( working ) coil fires it but the right

has no result nor is any current sent to the coils.

Is there 48 vdc at either coil lug? If only at one lug you have a bad
coil. Open winding. If voltage at neither lug, then you have an open
supply in the +48 daisy chain, coming from another coil nearby. (I
usually can tell you which, but for that I need the manual in front of
me). This repair could be as simple as resoldering a wire at the coil
nearest to this one.

I would also assume that I could check input to the MOSFET
at the board to detect problems upstream.

Do the above voltage check first before tearing into the board.
..

How "high" is HIGH VOLTAGE ?

On pinballs, your common high voltage can be as much as 240 vdc,
depending on what era of game you are working on. Generally, the
displays always have the highest voltage in a pinball machine, with a
few exceptions like strobe units an an ocassional neon feature, which
can get quite high for a brief time. Generally you are working close
with +78 vdc and under around the playfield. Extra care is always
taken not to short that to the switch or lamp matrix.


The manual lists " Transistor, RFP12N10L, OR IRL530 " for this bank on
the board. The original ones present are IRL530, about 8 have been
replaced with I hope an equivalent type but neither of those specified.

Any suggestions before I order some parts?

These are standard devices. There are NTE and other crosses as well.
Try not to use the IRF530N which is common in industry as it may or may
not work. The "L" in the IRL530 is for logic control which is the
correct replacement. I posted a while back about another part number
Gottlieb used that was failure prone, BUZ 72L. If those are on your
board I strongly suggest you replace them.

The rest of the board is pretty sturdy and can be checked easily with a
logic probe.

Mario
Pinthetic

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Thanks for the help. At this point in the learning curve, ANYTHING that
keeps me from getting electrocuted or ruining the machine is
appreciated. I have spent hours on Clay's guide and a little more sinks
in each time but there is no substitute for actually doing it.

How "high" is HIGH VOLTAGE ?

Grounding the lead for the left ( working ) coil fires it but the right
has no result nor is any current sent to the coils. This is with
everything in place so I will remove the coil and MOSFET and check them
separately. I would also assume that I could check input to the MOSFET
at the board to detect problems upstream.

The manual lists " Transistor, RFP12N10L, OR IRL530 " for this bank on
the board. The original ones present are IRL530, about 8 have been
replaced with I hope an equivalent type but neither of those specified.
Any suggestions before I order some parts?

Thanks
Jack James


Pinthetic@gmail.com wrote:
> You're dealing with a MOSFET, not a transistor. Do you have the
> manual? Use the schematic to identify the leads to the connector, or
> just follow the traces. Ground the lead that goes back to the driver
> board and see if it fires. Naturally if it does then the problem is
> just the driver circuitry. Is the coil OK? If it's fried, changing
> the MOSFET will only result in more destruction.
>
> There is no resistor between leads on a coil. There is however a
> diode. I think my best advise here is:
>
> Go to Clay's guides, (google for them), and get a primer on repairing
> and testing pinball boards.
>
> Mario
> Pinthetic
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Jack,

A start on a repair guide is here:

http://www.marvin3m.com/sys3/


-

http://www.myhomegameroom.com


John W. James wrote:
> Thanks for the help. At this point in the learning curve, ANYTHING that
> keeps me from getting electrocuted or ruining the machine is
> appreciated. I have spent hours on Clay's guide and a little more sinks
> in each time but there is no substitute for actually doing it.
>
> How "high" is HIGH VOLTAGE ?
>
> Grounding the lead for the left ( working ) coil fires it but the right
> has no result nor is any current sent to the coils. This is with
> everything in place so I will remove the coil and MOSFET and check them
> separately. I would also assume that I could check input to the MOSFET
> at the board to detect problems upstream.
>
> The manual lists " Transistor, RFP12N10L, OR IRL530 " for this bank on
> the board. The original ones present are IRL530, about 8 have been
> replaced with I hope an equivalent type but neither of those specified.
> Any suggestions before I order some parts?
>
> Thanks
> Jack James
>
>
> Pinthetic@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> You're dealing with a MOSFET, not a transistor. Do you have the
>> manual? Use the schematic to identify the leads to the connector, or
>> just follow the traces. Ground the lead that goes back to the driver
>> board and see if it fires. Naturally if it does then the problem is
>> just the driver circuitry. Is the coil OK? If it's fried, changing
>> the MOSFET will only result in more destruction.
>>
>> There is no resistor between leads on a coil. There is however a
>> diode. I think my best advise here is:
>>
>> Go to Clay's guides, (google for them), and get a primer on repairing
>> and testing pinball boards.
>>
>> Mario
>> Pinthetic
>>
>