Attn: STNNG Owners Input needed

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I am going to look at a STNNG later this week. Can you all tell me
what to look for when evaluating the game? Things on the playfield that
stick out, wear, where they are, are the cannons "explosive"..I do have
a T2 and my cannon fires pretty good..I've never played a STNNG but am
very interested.

Thanks in advance,
13 answers Last reply
More about attn stnng owners input needed
  1. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Google is your friend. Search on buying ST:TNG

    Here is a start:
    http://groups-beta.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_frm/thread/d755551f0f5a17a/156364e35eb25a1b?q=buying+ST:TNG&rnum=1#156364e35eb25a1b

    Andrew
  2. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    yes I saw that..thanks..
  3. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Make sure you look at the back up/down target. When I got mine one of
    the coils was shorted as well as the complementing transistor on the
    aux driver board. That target takes some abuse.

    Also take a look at the trough optos and see if any hacks were done
    down there.

    Other than the billion optos too.... but those are easy to replace...

    GI connector.. but that's probably a given already.... :)

    The Neutral Zone is a wear spot.... (Cliffy to the rescue!)

    All 3 ramp entrances can take a beating.....

    I'm sure others here will have much more info for you too, I'm just
    adding what I can think of off the top of my skull....

    Good luck!
  4. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    What bob said...

    The neutral zone... (if it has damage, the cliffy protector is a must
    regardless)

    The trough boards... are typically damaged you will probably need new
    ones..

    Opto's Opto's Opto's everywhere.

    You may have a credit dot because the borg ship ramp wasnt hit in a
    while... so if there is a credit dot dont panic.. check what it is....

    And the typical GI burn connectors...

    CANNON LOOMS.. are replaceble and notoriously bad... 20$ or so...
  5. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Otto, Its hard to find one WITHOUT those inserts seperating... at least
    some what....
  6. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Give all the inserts a good look.

    For some reason this machine seems to be prone to the diamondplate
    seperating from the inserts. It will manifest itself in the form of a white
    cloudy appearance.

    Tough to spot if it is a typical route game and is dirty.

    Wipe it clean and give it a good look. Take some Novus 2 with you if it is
    dirty.

    Otto

    CARGPB11

    My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding
  7. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Ugh... that reminds me.... I'll need looms soon.... thanks... ;)

    (I like your 20$ or so price..... got any?)
  8. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    I agree.

    Some are worse than others.

    Otto

    CARGPB11

    My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

    <hreimer@gmail.com> wrote in message
    news:1121194795.298808.292440@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
    > Otto, Its hard to find one WITHOUT those inserts seperating... at least
    > some what....
    >
  9. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    HI extech,

    My advice, play the game for a minimum of 20-30 minutes straight. A
    four player game should suffice. You will find what works and doesn't.
    I've rebuilt an STNG under and over and found that there is more
    hardware under than over. Pin tech expertise is fundamental as it
    relates to this game. Once properly functional, you have a gem on your
    hands!!

    Here's to the Final Frontier,

    Z
  10. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Thanks everyone...what is a GI burn connector? What exactly am I
    looking at when i see it, or what should it look like? My expertise on
    pins is increasing but not where I would like it to be...yet that is.
    With everones help here it is improving. When you say a trough board
    what are you referring to? Are they pretty easy to replace? Thanks-
  11. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Otto<

    For some reason this machine seems to be prone to the diamondplate
    seperating from the inserts. It will manifest itself in the form of a
    white
    cloudy appearance.


    On my T2 the mylar on the 5 bank targets seems to be coming up a
    bit...though what you describe (white bubbly, almost cloudy) apperance,
    makes me wonder..Is it the mylar or the diamondplate...I'm thinking its
    the mylar..There was a piece added there I'm assuming because its a
    high wear spot..there is also some around the bumpers..but that mylar
    is fine...what do you think?

    Extech
  12. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    http://marvin3m.com/wpc/index1.htm#connect


    Otto

    CARGPB11

    My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

    "extech" <rjv2@berkshire.rr.com> wrote in message
    news:1121266750.047452.23690@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
    > Thanks everyone...what is a GI burn connector?
  13. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Look at the connectors at J115, J120 & J121 on the power driver board.
    Burning is just what it sounds like, a brownish, darkened, toasty
    appearance to what was originally a white plastic connector.

    Much info here on the whys & wherefors of burnt connectors. The
    trough boards are PCBs attached to the ball trough (where the balls
    collect). Again, do a search, much info on this, another known
    problem....vibration causes problems with components on the boards
    (resistors & optos).

    alex
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