Tech: STTNG all optos open

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Alright, I finally got all the broken glass out of my game. That's the
good news. Now back to the original problem: Switch 61 (ball trough).
While looking at the trough and the manual I noticed the Black (ground
wire) J1-5 was located instead in J1-3. This isn't the place the
manual says it should be located. So moved the wire to J1-5. Now the
damn pin kicks balls constantly, even in attract mode. So I put a new
connector end on the wire and put it back again in J1-3. Same thing,
kicks balls constantly, even in attract mode. So I put the wire on
J1-5 and this still doesn't correct the problem. I also tried cleaning
the optos on this board along with every other opto on the game (a lot
of them!). So I went to the switch edge test and lo and behold all the
optos are open! I changed the fuse, nothing. I guess I could look for
shorts, but I don't see how this could happen since the game was fine
(everything worked great, except switch 61) up until I switched that
stupid wire (Why oh why must I try to fix things!). I really want to
get this fixed; this game is awesome and I got it for a really good
price (a first for me).
Anybody have any ideas? I have tried google, but maybe I am just not
using the right terminology with my queries.

Thanks in advance,

Rian
11 answers Last reply
More about tech sttng optos open
  1. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Ok, I have checked the LEDs for power; the trough leds are off and so
    are all the other opto boards. The board (the 16 opto board?) that is
    under the left VUK is off as well. I have tried following the wires to
    see where it is getting power from, but it looks like everything is a
    giant loop (granted, I didn't have a lot of time to check). I don't
    know if this has anything to do with the problem, but I open the
    backbox and on one of the boards (bottom left, I don't have my manual
    with me) there are three LEDs; bottom is solid, middle is blinking
    rapidly, and the top one is off.
    Any suggestions are greatly appreciated; I will be doing more
    troubleshooting in the morning (I live in the UK).

    Thanks!

    Rian
  2. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    All open--my first guess would be no power to the transmitters/receivers.

    Check to make sure the wires are connected to the trough boards(they need
    power).

    Check to make sure the same wires are connected to their power source.

    Check for voltage at the trough boards/connectors.

    Then:

    You have to determine if the optos in the trough are working.

    Transmitters--either get one of the ir detect cards from radio shack and
    check them or get out your digital video camera and look at them through
    it--they should display illuminated with the power on the machine.

    Receivers--with the room dark and the power on the game in switch edge test,
    shine a flashlight into each receiver. It should close the switch on the
    test. Wil display on the matrix and you will get a bong.


    Otto

    CARGPB11

    My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

    "Tony the Squid" <rianlawrence@hotmail.com> wrote in message
    news:1121513357.620181.144270@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
    >So I went to the switch edge test and lo and behold all the
    > optos are open! I changed the fuse, nothing. I guess I could look for
    > shorts, but I don't see how this could happen since the game was fine
    > (everything worked great, except switch 61) up until I switched that
    > stupid wire (Why oh why must I try to fix things!). I really want to
    > get this fixed; this game is awesome and I got it for a really good
    > price (a first for me).
    > Anybody have any ideas?
  3. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    "Tony the Squid" <rianlawrence@hotmail.com> wrote in message
    news:1121513357.620181.144270@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
    > Alright, I finally got all the broken glass out of my game. That's the
    > good news. Now back to the original problem: Switch 61 (ball trough).
    > While looking at the trough and the manual I noticed the Black (ground
    > wire) J1-5 was located instead in J1-3. This isn't the place the
    > manual says it should be located. So moved the wire to J1-5.

    On the LED board, pins 3 and 5 are a common ground so the black wire can be
    in either one. If you pulled the wire out of the connector pin and then
    pushed it back down into another, you should re-pin it correctly with a
    punch tool and new connector pin or go with a crimp style connector. You
    should also make sure the solder points on the backside of that connector
    arent cracked.


    > Now the
    > damn pin kicks balls constantly, even in attract mode. So I put a new
    > connector end on the wire and put it back again in J1-3. Same thing,
    > kicks balls constantly, even in attract mode. So I put the wire on
    > J1-5 and this still doesn't correct the problem. I also tried cleaning
    > the optos on this board along with every other opto on the game (a lot
    > of them!). So I went to the switch edge test and lo and behold all the
    > optos are open! I changed the fuse, nothing.

    If ALL optos remain open, first thing to check is power. Is LED 7 lit on the
    power driver board (big board in center of head).

    > I guess I could look for
    > shorts, but I don't see how this could happen since the game was fine
    > (everything worked great, except switch 61) up until I switched that
    > stupid wire (Why oh why must I try to fix things!).

    Because they break! As far as I can tell, you didn't cause any additional
    problems. Maybe a loose ground wire now in that trough board connector.

    > I really want to
    > get this fixed; this game is awesome and I got it for a really good
    > price (a first for me).
    > Anybody have any ideas? I have tried google, but maybe I am just not
    > using the right terminology with my queries.
    >
    > Thanks in advance,
    >
    > Rian
    >
  4. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Your LEDs are reporting that the WPC board is operating correctly.

    "Tony the Squid" <rianlawrence@hotmail.com> wrote in message
    news:1121521697.557898.140630@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
    > Ok, I have checked the LEDs for power; the trough leds are off and so
    > are all the other opto boards. The board (the 16 opto board?) that is
    > under the left VUK is off as well. I have tried following the wires to
    > see where it is getting power from, but it looks like everything is a
    > giant loop (granted, I didn't have a lot of time to check). I don't
    > know if this has anything to do with the problem, but I open the
    > backbox and on one of the boards (bottom left, I don't have my manual
    > with me) there are three LEDs; bottom is solid, middle is blinking
    > rapidly, and the top one is off.
    > Any suggestions are greatly appreciated; I will be doing more
    > troubleshooting in the morning (I live in the UK).
    >
    > Thanks!
    >
    > Rian
    >
  5. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Tony the Squid wrote:
    > Ok, I have checked the LEDs for power; the trough leds are off and so
    > are all the other opto boards. The board (the 16 opto board?) that is
    > under the left VUK is off as well. I have tried following the wires to
    > see where it is getting power from, but it looks like everything is a
    > giant loop (granted, I didn't have a lot of time to check). I don't
    > know if this has anything to do with the problem, but I open the
    > backbox and on one of the boards (bottom left, I don't have my manual
    > with me) there are three LEDs; bottom is solid, middle is blinking
    > rapidly, and the top one is off.
    > Any suggestions are greatly appreciated; I will be doing more
    > troubleshooting in the morning (I live in the UK).
    >

    Check the 12 volt fuses on the power driver board.

    Clive
    ---
    Board repairs, EPROMs, servicing...

    The Coin-Op Cauldron
    405 Wild Wing Way
    Easley, SC 29642
    (864)238-1707
    http://www.coinopcauldron.com
  6. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Rian,

    Search for this thread: "Clive's Handy ST:TNG Opto troubleshooter Part 1
    (was: Tech: STTNG)". Sounds like this might help track down the issue or
    issues.

    Eric
  7. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Hmm... NONE of the optos work? Check fuses F114, F115 and F116. When you
    turn on the game touch bridge rectifiers on the power driver board? Any one
    of them cool to the touch?

    Adi
    www.txpinball.com

    "Tony the Squid" <rianlawrence@hotmail.com> wrote in message
    news:1121513357.620181.144270@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
    > Alright, I finally got all the broken glass out of my game. That's the
    > good news. Now back to the original problem: Switch 61 (ball trough).
    > While looking at the trough and the manual I noticed the Black (ground
    > wire) J1-5 was located instead in J1-3. This isn't the place the
    > manual says it should be located. So moved the wire to J1-5. Now the
    > damn pin kicks balls constantly, even in attract mode. So I put a new
    > connector end on the wire and put it back again in J1-3. Same thing,
    > kicks balls constantly, even in attract mode. So I put the wire on
    > J1-5 and this still doesn't correct the problem. I also tried cleaning
    > the optos on this board along with every other opto on the game (a lot
    > of them!). So I went to the switch edge test and lo and behold all the
    > optos are open! I changed the fuse, nothing. I guess I could look for
    > shorts, but I don't see how this could happen since the game was fine
    > (everything worked great, except switch 61) up until I switched that
    > stupid wire (Why oh why must I try to fix things!). I really want to
    > get this fixed; this game is awesome and I got it for a really good
    > price (a first for me).
    > Anybody have any ideas? I have tried google, but maybe I am just not
    > using the right terminology with my queries.
    >
    > Thanks in advance,
    >
    > Rian
    >
  8. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Hello Adi,

    Yes, all the optos are out; all I did was change one wire! No smoke,
    pops, or bangs (unless you count the translight glass exploding; that
    was loud), nothing. Really weird stuff. Anyways, to answer your
    question about the power driver board: BR1 & 2 are warm as are 3 & 4
    but BR5 is ice cold. Should I replace it? What does BR5 do anyhow?

    Thanks!

    Rian
  9. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Hello all,

    Special thanks to all who helped diagnose this problem (especially
    Adi); everything seems to be working fine now except switch 61 (suspect
    a broken trace). I can't say for sure if it was fuse 116 or J114 on
    the power driver board that solved the problem (I did them both at the
    same time, D'oh!); all I know is that they both *appeared* to be seated
    correctly but once I reseated them everything was fine.

    So thanks again, now I am back to lurking.

    Rian
  10. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Okay, good you got it oing again. Now... Get the balls out of the ball
    through. Power up the game go to switch edges test. Feed the balls into
    the ball through one by one, you should see on the display all through
    optos registering, through6, through5, through 4 etc... up to through 1
    and then it will stop. Put 2nd ball in, same thing, now it stops at
    through 2 and so on. Now, find which of the switches is 61. Touch the
    big ass blue resistors on the board. Any one of them cold to the touch?
    Resolder them all. If you find a broken trace, retrace it, make sure
    you know where it goes, or where it is supposed to go (verify with the
    schemativs, if necesary), and do the jumpering and soldering.

    Check the connector that goes to the boarde, see if the soldering broke
    on it, it is common. Get the board out. Inspect visually, inspect and
    test for continuity with dmm for the switch 61, don't bother with the
    rest of them, since they work fine.

    Your problem has to be on that board. Remember that receiver opto
    rarely fails, it doesn't do jackshit, just sits there receiving the
    light, transmiter is the one working hard and in most of the cases they
    are the first to fail. Before replacing it, check if the wires didn't
    fall off of it. To make sure the receiver works fine, in switch edges
    test, block the transmiter and shine pen flashlight into it, it should
    register. If you need any more help, post back. Don't buy Radio Shack
    "substitute" transmiters, they are sort of flaky and unreliable on
    distances greater than 1.5 or 2 inches, at least that was my
    experience. Best of luck.

    Adi
    www.txpinball.com
  11. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    It provides unregulated 12 Volts for optos. Check the fuses before, as I
    suggested. You really need to read Marvin's guides. There is a connector by
    BR%. It's J114. Did you disconnect it by any chance? IF yes, connect it and
    power up again.
    Adi
    www.txpinball.com


    "Tony the Squid" <rianlawrence@hotmail.com> wrote in message
    news:1121601702.952186.289460@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
    > Hello Adi,
    >
    > Yes, all the optos are out; all I did was change one wire! No smoke,
    > pops, or bangs (unless you count the translight glass exploding; that
    > was loud), nothing. Really weird stuff. Anyways, to answer your
    > question about the power driver board: BR1 & 2 are warm as are 3 & 4
    > but BR5 is ice cold. Should I replace it? What does BR5 do anyhow?
    >
    > Thanks!
    >
    > Rian
    >
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