I have picked up a 19" Samsung SyncMaster 953bw free from a friend because he claimed it was broken. He has since bought a 23" to replace it and has no use for it. Having tested it, I have found that the issue is as follows:
When the monitor is first powered up, the image is crystal clear and normal for 2 or 3 seconds. Then the monitor screen goes blank, yet remains on. None of the buttons are then responsive. When the monitor is powered down and then up again, the same thing happens.
I created a very similar post to this one and had an excellent response from the moderator "fihart". Thinking I had all the help I needed, I tagged the thread as "Solved".
It is far from it.
The problem is that although the latter website shows a Samsung Syncmaster 953bw and the case looks identical, the boards in it are differently aranged. What is more, I do not know what it is I am looking for in regards for "busted capacators". I do know all of my internal components but I have never attempted a repair of a circuit board before.
(I would show you the pictures I have taken of the board for comparison but I do not know how to post pictures on Tom's Hardware)
Any help would be nice.
More about :repair assistance needed samsung 953bw
August 8, 2010 6:27:59 PM
You can post pictures via Photo Bucket or creat an album in Facebook and add a link to that album with your next post.
If you can learn to solder you can replace components -- especially quite robust ones like capacitors. If your board has roughly the same number of caps as the illustration on FixYa just replace them all (they are very cheap, to buy) but obviously make scrupulous notes as to which value of cap goes where and on polarity.
capacitors should be flat on top, not bulged or curved or have anything leaking from the top of them. Replace anything that looks suspect (with a capacitor of the same type). You really need to know some basic electronics and be able to solder to do this. If that doesn't work then you will need to replaced the inverter/power supply board (if it is separate). Failing that it could also be one of the backlights.
There is one more photo but I do not think you will need it.
If you simply compare the photos I have posted to those on the FixYa website, you can easily see that the cards are different. I cannot see any obvious issues but perhaps you can see through the poor resolution and see them for me.
August 9, 2010 1:04:34 PM
None of the capacitors looks faulty but that doesn't necessarily mean they're okay.
Ignore the big 450v cap. ignore the small ones (like the one top left next to the heat sink).
Change the three medium sized ones (probably about 16 to 20v) at bottom left, bottom middle -- and midway up (with the word DIP below it).
There's a smaller one next to the bottom left -- might as well change that as well.
Before removing make a diagram or mark the board with values and polarity.
Take them to electronics hobby store and ask for similar replacements -- slightly higher voltage and temp tolerance is fine but stick closely to the same capacitance value (microfarad/picofarad -- named after the British engineer Faraday, incidentally).
Obviously there's no guarantee that this gets to the problem -- but it's a common fault and not especially hard to try to fix.