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Official Flat Panel Monitor Reviews Thread

Last response: in Computer Peripherals
a b C Monitor
September 15, 2010 1:14:12 AM

With many questions about monitor suggestions, we here at Tom's thought it would be a good idea to start a thread where you can share your experiences with flat panel monitors, i.e. LCD, LED, using HDTV's as monitors, etc... for others to consider when looking for a new monitor. All we ask for are two things.

First, include the following information about your monitor (if you know the information):
-Graphics Card:
-Screen Size:
-Maximum Resolution:
-Contrast Ratio:
-Response Time:

Second, include your opinions of your monitor. If you have had a bad experience with a given monitor, remember to keep your review civil, i.e. within the confines of the Terms of Service and the Rules of Conduct. We've all had bad experiences with technology and brands in the past, so we understand your frustration.
a b C Monitor
September 15, 2010 1:15:04 AM

I'll start to give everyone an example.

-Brand: Dell
-Model: S2309W
-Graphics Card: ATI Radeon HD5830
-Screen Size: 23"
-Maximum Resolution: 1920x1080 @60hz
-Contrast Ratio: 1000:1
-Brightness: 300 cd/m2
-Response Time: 5ms
-Connectors: DVI-D/VGA

While not exactly a top of the line monitor, this is an excellent monitor for those looking for a full 1080p monitor for movies, light gaming, and an all around excellent wide-screen experience. As of now, it retails for roughly $250, but I managed to secure it from Dell's Outlet Center for the bargain basement price of $150 in November 2009.

Coming from a decent Samsung 19" monitor, the difference between the two is night and day. In comparison to other monitors that I have owned or used over the years, this one is vibrant in terms of brightness and color accuracy, as well as in its crispness and the amount of details shown. I'm by no means a hardcore gamer, but when I do game, I enjoy simulation games like Custom Play Golf and the Sim City games. The games seemed like they were brand new when I played them on this monitor. I also do a fair amount of photo editing, which the S2309W handles with ease in terms of clarity and color recognition.

Highly recommended!
a c 195 C Monitor
September 16, 2010 4:24:05 AM

Here's a modified review of my Asus VK246H from Dec 2008 / Jan 2009. The original thread is as follows and also includes an expanded DVD playback quality section at the very end:

Additionally, this review is written from an average gamer / user point of view. Otherwise I would have used much more stringent standards regarding color accuracy and uniformity and I would rated this monitor much more harshly.

I can also write a review regarding the NEC LCD2690WUXi and Planar PX2611w if anyone is interested. However, both are no longer in production, but new Planar PX2611w can still be purchased online.

-Brand: Asus
-Model: VK246H (this review also applies to the VW246H)
-Graphics Card: Nvidia GeForce 9600GT
-Screen Size: 24"
-Maximum Resolution: 1920 x 1080 @ 60Hz
-Contrast Ratio: 1000:1 (constant) / 20,000:1 (Dynamic)
-Brightness: 300 cd/m2
-Response Time: 2ms
-Connectors: D-Sub, DVI, HDMI
-Input Lag: less than 2ms
-Other: Built-in webcam, 2w integrated speakers
-Overall Recommendation: Great for gaming, good for videos


This is a review of the Asus VK246H 24” LCD monitor with a resolution of 1920 x 1080; aspect ratio of 16:9 (same as HDTVs). This monitor is similar to the ASUS VW246H, but has a built-in webcam at the top-center of the monitor. I have no need for a webcam, but the “VK” model was actually cheaper after all the discounts have been applied.

The box the monitor came is quite slim measuring 25-3/8” wide, 18-1/2” tall and a mere 7-1/8” thick. The box has a plastic handle which allows for easy transport. The weight of the entire package is 17 lbs. The monitor itself is around 12 lbs. The Asus seems to be fine, I noticed no damage or blemishes to the physical monitor.

Included items in the package:
- The monitor (duh!!!)
- Power cord
- DVI-D cable
- VGA cable
- Speaker cable
- Monitor base
- USB cable for the webcam (will not be reviewed since I will not be using it at all)
- Very basic multi-language quick start guide (English is covered in a mere 5 pages)
- ASUS “VIP Member Notice” – basically a warranty card.

Being such an inexpensive monitor (currently $230), it is no wonder that the entire casing and the stand is made from plastic. The front half of bezel is shiny plastic, fingerprints doesn’t seem to be an issue. However, I’m sure dust will love it. The monitor comes with plenty of stickers already attached and the entire front bezel is taped to prevent scratches. The base is made of lightweight plastic and very easy to install. It took less than 30 seconds to install the base to the monitor; the inside flap of the box has a graphic that shows you how to do it. The base it is wide enough to give the monitor sufficient support; a hard tap to the monitor will not cause it to tip over. The base only allows you to tilt the monitor; hey can’t expect too much from an inexpensive monitor.

The OSD Menu

The onscreen display menu is pretty basic as well as the controls. The buttons are as follows starting from the right corner.

1. The Power button is the right most button on the monitor and has a little blue dot light to indicate the monitor is on, not distracting at all.
2. To the left of the Power button is Input Selection button to choose between DVI-D, HDMI and VGA.
3. Brightness button comes next and doubles as the Increase button.
4. To the left of the Brightness button is the Menu button.
5. Next is the Sound button doubles as the Decrease button.
6. Lastly, the left most button is the “Splendid” button.

“Spendid” is provides 5 preset settings for different scenarios. Each “Splendid” setting is a different combination of Brightness, Contrast, Sharpness, Saturation, and ASCR (dynamic contrast on/off) options. The listed modes are Scenery, Standard, Theater, Game and Night View. Since this monitor has dynamic contrast each of the modes has a certain baseline contrast level. More on these modes later on.

Pressing the Menu button brings to you to the Splendid tab so you can scroll up/down and choice the best for your tastes. The next is the Image tab which lists all the options mentioned above. I will assume all are fairly easy to understand so I won’t explain anything other than the fact that Sharpness doesn’t seem to affect anything (images or text), unless the monitor is not being used at it’s native resolution. The Color tab allows you to change the color temperature (red, green, blue), and skin tones; useless unless you like to see people with more reddish or yellowish skin tones. The next tab is the Input Select (DVI-D, HDMI and VGA). The last tab is System Setup which includes Volume, OSD Setup, Language, Information, All Reset (to reset all your changes) and lastly Aspect Control which is grayed out when using native resolution. This option only become available when using less than native resolution.

Physical Dimensions

The monitor is roughly 16-1/2” tall, 22-5/16” wide, and 2-3/16” thick (excluding the base). The height is measured from the bottom of the base to the top of the webcam. The base itself is more or less circular with a diameter of about 9”. The base only raises the monitor 2-5/8” above the table. There is no height adjustment or swivel, and for get pivoting. Like all basic monitors, the Asus does have tilting. On the bright side, you can buy a 3rd party stand since this monitor complies with the VESA 100mm standard. I will probably do so in the future to get height adjustment.


This monitor has speakers however they do not face forward. Instead the speakers are located behind the monitor and they face upward. The sound emanates from the exhaust grid where heat rises out of the monitor. There is nothing spectacular about the speakers, they are just 2 watts and they sound rather flat, hallow and there is no bass. The speakers are good enough if you are in a pinch, but even $20 for a pair of speakers will outperform what’s included with the monitor. I would not bother setting the volume to be higher than 50 since distortion can occur (depending on the music).

Image Quality

As mentioned in my first post, this monitor uses a TN panel which can only produce 256k actual colors. Using temporal dithering (pixels flashes between multiple colors) the monitor can reproduce up to 16.7m colors (at least that’s what the manufacture claims). This newer method of dithering should allow for better color gradients which should reduce color banding errors. Dynamic Contrast (called ACSR) is reported to be 20,000:1. The claimed 2ms response time should mean there be very little ghosting.

1. Backlight Bleeding

This monitor exhibits some slight backlight bleeding across the top of the screen which is noticeable when looking at a black or dark background. When viewing a black background in a darkroom I can easily tell that the backlighting is not uniform throughout the entire monitor. I noticed slight patches of lighter areas across the monitor; however during normal usage this mostly un-noticeable. A bit more irritating annoyance with my particular Asus VK246 is the faint blue glow at the bottom of the screen just to the left of the Asus label. It is about 1” wide, it is not noticeable under normal circumstances even with a black background because the Windows XP taskbar is blue itself. Even when the taskbar set to auto-hide I did not notice it initially because there is still a thin blue line at the bottom of the screen when the taskbar is hidden. However, once I spotted the blue glow I can spot it very easily no matter what the background is (unless it is blue). I first noticed it when playing Fallout 3 to put this monitor thru its paces. There is another blue glow area about 1.5” to the right of the Asus label; this patch of blue glow is also about 1” wide, but is much less noticeable than the patch to the left. Meaning I need to pay attention to see it whereas I can spot the blue glow to the left with just a casual glance.

2. Color

I did not like the default colors of the monitor and it seems very difficult for me to adjust the monitor to my liking even after fiddling around with the OSD for well over an hour over the course of my brief ownership. Maybe it is just me, but I found balancing the right combination of Red, Green, and Blue is a bit tricky and also balancing the right amount of Brightness and Contrast. I see some “crushed blacks” where the very lowest shades of black all looked like the same “black”. My more expensive monitors don't really have this issue, but they are 3x and 6x more expensive than the Asus. When dealing with white saturation, it is also kinda difficult to find the right balance of Brightness and Contrast to notice subtle changes in grey and white.

With regards to color banding, I do not really notice any issues at the moment so it seems temporal dithering is doing what it is supposed to be doing. In the past TN panels had issues displaying underwater scenes properly due to subtle colors changes caused by sunlight shinning down into the water, movement of aquatic animal life, and the water they displace when they swim. That led to color banding and image artifact issues (where the monitor could simply display blocks of colors because it could not blend together the right colors to create the color that is supposed to be displayed). Unfortunately, I do not have any footage of an aquatic environment like the Blue Planet documentary series. Movies like Jaws and Deep Blue Sea do not count since Jaws is relatively old and the transfer from film to digital format is that great. Deep Blue Sea has CGI involved so that’s out.

3. Viewing Angles

Like all TN panels this monitor has limited viewing angles. Simply moving your head can cause colors to shift. Using a white background and turning my head I can see the white starting to shift to light gray with maybe a hint of yellow involved; basically it looks like the contrast level is changing and I can see some subtle color changes as well and at worse I can begin to a low level color banding when sink tones are involved. For the average user the shift is not too bad from left to right.

Looking down at the monitor from a standing position the contrast shift is even more pronounced and it actually seems to negate some of the color banding I see, but overall images seems darker than they should be and have less details. Looking at the monitor from a small child’s prospective, looking up at the monitor, reveals the worse shift in color, contrast and brightness. This is only an issue for small children though as I really doubt most adults will be looking at this monitor from such a position.

4. Splendid Modes

As I mentioned before, the Asus VK246 offers Splendid which is similar to MagicBright found on Samsung monitors. There are 5 available modes and they can all be adjusted and reset to their default settings if necessary. Since the monitor has Dynamic Contrast, it appears a certain baseline level of Contrast and Brightness are assigned to each of the modes. This can then be adjusted upwards or downwards to the user’s liking. However, it is not possible to use one mode to mimic another. For example, initially I decided to adjust Night View Mode so that it would like more like Scenery or Standard; no dice. While all the adjustable Brightness, Contrast, Sharpness, and Saturation could be set to the same level, the “dynamic” Brightness and Contrast could not be altered. Also note that the same Color Temp is used for all modes so whether Cool, Normal, Warm, or User Mode is selected in the OSD, it will be applied to all modes. It would have been nice to be able to assign different Color Temps to each mode.

As a basis to look at colors and image quality from a gaming perspective I loaded Fallout 3 and Far Cry (the original) as a basis to judge overall image quality in games. I’m using Fallout 3 because it is the current game I am playing and Far Cry because the jungle offer a lot of bright colors and foliage. The two blue glows that I mentioned before at the bottom of the screen are very apparent in Fallout 3. In low light conditions or when the ground is relatively dark, I can easily see the left blue glow. In low light conditions I can see the right blue glow because it appears where the hand carrying the weapon is. The glows cannot be easily seen in a brightly lit environment.

Scenery Mode – This mode seems to offer one of the better balances of the four adjustable setting. This is the mode I am current using and it seems to add a good depth to colors in games. The colors are vibrant (actually a bit too much for me so I reduced Saturation a bit) and the level of contrast seems to bring out a decent amount of details in games. In Fallout 3 it brings a nice level of detail and “grittiness” to the game. Since the game takes place in a post apocalyptic era most of the colors in the game are grays and browns. There is a decent amount of saturation (I lowered it) by default so that it gave players that “pop” they are looking for I suppose. In Far Cry colors seems to be a bit over exaggerated, but otherwise I don’t find any faults with it.

Standard Mode – Colors are not as saturated as in Scenery. Brightness and Contrast are set a little higher so that colors seems to be a little washed out. This causes details to be lost because it seems like some of the depth is lost and it is apparent in both games. But overall, this also offers a good balance of the four settings since it is a bit more natural. I would decrease Brightness and Contrast a little bit though. Whether for gaming or web surfing Standard is a good choice, but I think Scenery is better.

Theater Mode – This definitely increases the Brightness and Contrast level; too much for my liking whether in a dimly or well lit room. Also, this mode also uses warmer colors so everything takes on a reddish hue in Fallout 3 which I do not like. On the other hand this mode doesn’t seem too bad in Far Cry, the green foliage looks greener, and the water looks quite nice. I suppose this game looks good because the game mostly takes place outdoors in a very sunny environment so the extra Brightness and Contrast seems to help in this situation. The reddish hue is not really noticeable as well. I am sure this will change once indoors as lighting conditions will be different.

Game Mode – Not sure why this is an option because quite frankly; it doesn’t really look good. In Game mode colors seem to be muddied and don’t seem to blend in very well with each other in both games. Green is definitely overstated in this mode and since Far Cry has plenty of foliage it makes it painfully more obvious. Perhaps some tweaking will make it better, but I think adjusting Scenery or Standard mode will be easier.

Night View Mode – Man, way too bright, by a long shot. Colors in Far Cry looks if they were neon. Imagine foliage that is glowing green from nuclear radiation. This make both games look like they were in cartoon land. This mode also brings out color banding issues and image artifact issues which are the worst traits TN panels have. Avoid using at all cost.

5. Interpolation

As I initially indicated at the beginning, the Aspect Control option I the OSD is only available when using less than native resolution; forget about 1:1 pixel mapping since it is not offered at all. Thus, if you want to play an older game which does not support widescreen format, then it would be necessary to go into Aspect Control and select 4:3 mode so that images will not appear to be stretched; Diablo II would be such an example.

Decreasing the resolution to 1600 x 900 reveals a significant decrease in text clarity; it’s painful just looking at it. The Sharpness control in the OSD can help, but not much. Gaming wise, the decrease to image quality is not as bad as text quality, however game graphics do appear softer; which is no surprise. Bumping it up the resolution to 1680 x 1050 makes text look a little easier to read, but this is 16:10 aspect ratio, not 16:9 so everything will look a little stretched. My advice is to absolutely do not use less than native resolution in desktop mode. You have been warned!

6. Gaming

I noticed no ghosting while gaming on this monitor in both Fallout 3 and Far Cry. The exception is when I swing my mouse very rapidly from side to side like a wildman. Makes it kinda hard to hit your target though. Fallout 3 has native support for 16:9 aspect ratio resolutions and in Far Cry 1 1920 x 1080 was an option so no tweaks were necessary. Additionally, Galactic Civilization II had no issues with using native resolution as well. I noticed no perceivable input lag on this monitor. In fact, this monitor has been tested to have less than 2ms of input lag, by; the link is as follows:

Overall, playing games on this monitor is very enjoyable due to no noticeable ghosting effect and the very low input lag. Colors are a bit exaggerated and not very accurate in my opinion, but in games that does not really matter too much as long as the colors are not grossly off like displaying pink instead of red. The Scenery mode should provide most people with the kinda "pop" that they. If not, then there are 4 other modes however Game and Night Views modes are totally unacceptable to me.

7. DVD Playback (brief review)

I am using PowerDVD v7.3 for DVD playback and my HTPC has a ECS 9600GT that is passively cooled by an Arctic Cooling Accelero S2. While watching the various chapters I am sitting approximately 40" away from the monitor. The DVDs I am using to analyze the monitor are: The Dark Knight, Appleseed: Ex Machina, and Iron Man (last minute review). An extended playback analysis will be posted for each DVD later. I am sticking with using Scenery mode while watching the DVDs. I dislike the shades of color Theater mode displays.

The Dark Knight is a 2:35:1 aspect ratio movie, therefore watching this on any LCD monitor will result in black bars on the top and bottom of the screen. Unfortunately this means the backlight bleeding on top and bottom of the screen does shine through which is quite distracting. Watching The Dark Knight on an IMAX screen was great. Watching it on the Asus was not so great. There were a bit too many instances video artifacts and color banding for my tastes. These things don't occur throughout the entire movie but, it happens enough for me to only give a Fair rating as low light level scenes tends to bring out the worse in this monitor. I basically conclude that visual issues with the Dark Knight is due to compressing a very long movie with lots of dark scenery onto a dual layer DVD. I am confident that the Blu-Ray version of this movie will not have such poor visual artifacts since a dual layer Blu-Ray disc can store up to 50GB of data.

Appleseed: Ex Machina is a Japanese anime based on the Appleseed manga and it is completely computer generated. Since the movie is 16:9 aspect ratio, it fills up the entire screen which helps mask the backlight bleeding along the top and bottom. Overall playback is a better than The Dark Knight but it still suffers from some color banding here and there. In darker scenes the blacklight bleeding does appear a little bit, but at least it is brief and not constant like in The Dark Knight.

Since The Dark Knight performed so poorly, I decided to add in Iron Man as part of my review. This movie is also presented in 2:35:1 aspect ratio. Iron Man fared much better than the Dark Knight. Yes there were instances of the typical color banding and video artifact appearing on the screen, but they were far less frequent an thus less annoying. There were no issues with smoke and artifacts. It does pretty will in both dimly lit and brightly lit conditions. It was very pleasant watching Iron Man on this monitor.


Overall, I recommend this monitor (and the Asus VW246H) for anyone looking for an inexpensive 1080p monitor that is excellent for games and does a pretty good job for videos. Needless to say this monitor also does pretty well for office application and websurfing as well.
Related resources
a b C Monitor
September 16, 2010 8:26:07 AM

Incredibly thorough review! Thanks for contributing! For the cash, it seems like the Asus VW246H is a good buy, especially for those like me who are always in the market for an inexpensive monitor.
September 16, 2010 1:29:01 PM

jaguarskx, excellent review, the Asus VW246H is a good price/performance monitor.
a b C Monitor
September 17, 2010 8:07:10 AM


There's been a rash of flatscreen monitors failures.

Failures affect monitors of varying ages and across numerous models though, mostly, those larger than
15 inches. I suspect the problem is being caused by heat inside a small space. As I recall, some early
flatscreens had cooling fans

Obviously there's no guarantee that this is the case with every flatscreen failure but it's a common
fault and not especially hard to try to fix.

This video of a repair to a Viewsonic monitor (I had two from that brand fail) will show you the

No, I couldn't understand what he was saying, either.

The Viewsonic case is easy to disassemble. But many monitors use concealed clips under the screen
surround, where two halves of the case meet. These can be hard to locate and I've found that a
small penknife slid along the join is the best tool for locating and releasing them. There will be some
scratching of the case. Usually, start by removing the pedestal stand.

Once in, identify the power supply board (usually separate from the screen electronics) and
identifiable because it doesn't carry any integrated circuit chips -- and components are not surface
mounted. In fact, the power board usually looks cruder. On most monitors, the mains cable plugs
directly into the power board.

In most (not all) instances, faulty capacitors can be identified easily because the end caps bulge
slightly -- in extreme cases the bodies bulge and there is a brown leakage.

If you can solder*, replace all the medium sized capacitors (probably about 16 to 25v) with ones of
the same value. Slightly higher voltage is not a bad thing, but stick closely to the same capacitance
value (microfarad/picofarad). If you're not sure about values take damaged capacitors or the board
with you to the electronics hobby store.

You can probably ignore the bigger capacitors (sometimes 450v) and ignore the very small ones.
Before removing any components, make a diagram or mark the board with the values and polarity of
the components you plan to remove. When replacing, be sure to double check polarity (usually
indicated on the circuit board and on the component).

Capacitors are cheap and, if you already have a soldering iron, the only additional expenditure I'd
recommend is a small solder pump which makes it easier to remove stuff without damaging the
circuit board.

Once the new components are in place, it is feasible to test the monitor without reassembling the
case (which you may have to disassemble if the problem persists). But there are high voltages kicking around in monitors and you should not touch the uncased monitor once power is connected, except to press the Power On button. If the repair is successful you will see the "no connection" warning come up on screen and it should stay on screen for the normal period. Disconnect power at the wall socket and leave the screen for a couple of minutes before reassembling it.

*If you have to take it in to a repair guy it shouldn't cost much. It takes anyone experienced
under an hour to do the job, the parts cost very little and should be in stock.

If you wish to reply, please go to the new dedicated Official Monitor Repairs Thread
a b C Monitor
September 17, 2010 12:43:44 PM

Feel free to include questions about monitor repairs* as well.

* See new dedicated Official Monitor Repairs Thread.
a b C Monitor
September 27, 2010 4:55:01 AM

-Brand: Dell
-Model: U2711
-Graphics Card: Radeon HD5970
-Screen Size: 27"
-Maximum Resolution: 2560x1440
-Contrast Ratio: 1000:1 static / 50,000 dynamic
-Brightness: 350 cd/m2
-Response Time: 6ms
-Input Lag: 20ms average
-Connectors: Displayport, DVI-D, HDMI, Component
-Panel Type: 27"WS LG.Display H-IPS

Dell in the past made premium IPS based monitors for graphics designers only. However due to the lack of large format displays in the market, pro-gamers were looking at Dell monitors as well. The U2711 still targets graphics designers but gamers as well.

Connection: Like the older WFP 3008 it comes with every single connection you probably want. So you can hook up anything from computer, xbox, to blu-ray player onto the display.

Input Lag: Like the Dell 2410 this monitor also offers a Game mode which Dell claims to allow the monitor to bypass internal circuitry to reduce input lag. I didn't notice much benefit from this setting at all. After dozen or two photos the monitor frequently scores between 30ms and 5ms, though the avearge is definitely around 20ms. A bit above 1 frame worth of lag, this is below the average of 30ms for a monitor that has a scaler with so many connections.

LCD Panel: The panel is the same H-IPS as the 2560x1400 NEC and Apple Cinema Display. The H-IPS panel has less spacing between each sub-pixel giving the monitor better black levels and color saturation compared to S-IPS panels used on previous dell models.

Backlight: A backlight is the main driver behind a monitors color reproduction. The U2711 certainly uses a different backlight from the WFP3007/3008. The color gamut is 110% NTSC, slightly lower from the 117% NTSC. The backlight is also colder by comparison but not as cold as white LEDs. I personally find the backlight produces a more natural white. This is definitely better than the previous backlight despite the slight impact to color gamut, better than the Apple Cinema Display which uses white LEDs that can only produce 72% of NTSC color gamut. Many users complained about backlight bleed of the previous 30" Dells. The newer U2711 has considerably less backlight bleed by comparison.

Factory Calibration: Many people buy monitors and avoid calibration due to the high expense of calibrators but I can tell you calibration can go a long way. Good thing Dell took the liberty to calibrate the monitor in the factory. The the calibration is very accurate. Applying my Spyder 3 Elite colorimeter hardly changed anything. Very satisfied with the calibration doen in the factory. The standard setting isn't calibrated, only sRGB mode, Adobe RGB mode, and more interestingly Game mode is calibrated.

Controls: The controls are like no other. Dell went for touch sensitive controls. I always hated touch sensitive controls. They might look classy but when you are in the dark, you can't feel them and thus can't use them properly. The U2711 however has lights on the buttons but unlike many buttons with lights, they don't bother you because they are only activated when your hand is near. Such classy button that function in the dark too.

Stand: The stand is very sturdy. The base is plastic but the main arm that holds the monitor is metal. It has height, tilt, and swivel adjust. Lacks a full 90 degree rotation unlike the NEC display but this is not a particularly useful feature anyway.

This panel is also listed as 10-bit like the NEC and Apple but in reality all 3 displays are 8-bit + FRC. This promises 1.07 billion colors to reduce banding when displays gradients. However not many people have workstation graphics cards cappable of displaying full 10-bit per channel of color. The Radeon 5800 series is listed to be able to do 30-bit internal processing but ATI didn't enable 30-bit color output at a drivers level. So only their firepro and Nvidia's Quattro cards can do it. The panel also claims to be able to convert 8-bit sources to 10-bit but personally I don't see any difference. Also yes you can see the difference between 1.07 billion and 16.7 million colors. I can show you some gradients and you would definitely notice bands on them.

All in all this is a great monitor if you are looking for a high resolution display. Though still targets graphics designers, this monitor performs great for games. Response time is low and input lag isn't that bad for a display that offers a scaler and every connection you can possibly want. The H-IPS panel has some amazing black levels and the color blows away any TN panel right out of the box. Though the price is somewhat restrictive for some consumers, it is still fairly cheap compared to some other H-IPS based panels out there. Awesome monitor.
a b C Monitor
September 27, 2010 8:46:13 AM

Well done review Rofl! Do you notice the 6ms response time at all or is pretty snappy?
a b C Monitor
September 28, 2010 3:21:27 AM

Its hard to notice the difference between 6ms and the 2ms from a TN.
a b C Monitor
September 29, 2010 7:00:44 PM

-Model: Acer S243HL
-Screen Size: 24"
-Maximum Resolution: 1920x1080
-Contrast Ratio: 1000:1 static / 8 Million dynamic
-Brightness: 250 cd/m2
-Response Time: 2ms G2G
-Input Lag: 5ms average
-Connectors: VGA, Dual HDMI
-Panel Type: TN
-Backlight: White LED
-Color Gammut: 72% NTSC
-Bit Rate: 6bit + HiFRC

A lot of people have been asking about LED displays. Several months ago my sister asked me which display to get though she knows nothing about monitors. I personally was curious about LED myself since they were and still being advertised left and right. Her budget didn't permit high end IPS anyway. So I went for an Acer LED display that boast 8 million contrast. I personally don't hold any value for dynamic contrast but 8 million got to be something. Those were my initial thoughts at least.

Color Reproduction: The colors are pretty typical, actually its a bit worse than my older Samsung T220 which uses CCFL lamps. Turns out white LED can only do 72% NTSC color gamut be consumer level white LEDs from Acer or the ones in the Apple Cinema displays. The T220 can do 82% with typical CCFL. Eco CCFL can do 72% with almost the same power saving. So the saturation is a bit lower but still typical among many TN panels. The thing is, "typical" is the word im using for a backlight I paid a premium for.

White point: The white point is most certainly better, though not as good as W-CCFLs used in high end displays. It is leaps and bounds better than typical CCFL lamps used in TN panels. White LEDs is a bit on the cold side but it is closer to pure white. You also don't need to warm up the display for optimum brightness or white point which is a minor plus.

Contrast and Black levels: Though it boasts a WTF 8 million to 1 dynamic. It doesn't feel like anything special. I like the acer dynamic contrast over other ones. While others change brightness in real time, it makes the screen appear to be flashing wildly. Acer monitors change brightness very slowly so you can't notice any flashing of the screen. Its still a TN panel so there are times were black levels would meld and you can't see anything when playing games. So I left dynamic on and during those scenes it bumps up brightness and contrast. The effect isn't perfect, when in really dark areas you can see the monitor slowly brightening up everything to look like shades of grey instead of black but at least I can see.

Response time and Input lag. It is 2ms like most TN panels. Still any TN panel that is advertising 2ms is definitely using response time conpensation so there is still artifacts from very fast moving object so I can't use the word perfect but pretty good. Input lag is to a minimum.

Color Presets: I can tell you about high end monitors with terrible color presets or no presets altogether but those are extremely expensive monitors you would calibrate anyway. Most peopel would never calibrate a TN panel because a calibrator cost more than the panel itself so the presets are important.

If you set color and contrast to dynamic, it looks cold. Everything seem to have a blue tint. TN panels are not good for color saturation but an attempt to improve its own color saturation it bumps up color tones slightly so faint colors look darker. This is effect is pretty bad in my opinion since already saturation tones can't go any higher so when viewing color gradients, the low tones gets increased while the dark tones stay the same. Makes gradients look like solid colors more or less. As well the the blue tint, auto setting is definitely trash.

I like using custom but dynamic contrast doesn't work with custom. From what I can set with the OSD it appears pretty good. Color looks more bland compared to dynamic setting but at least they appear as color gradients rather than solid colors. I can also get it to appear more white and less blue using custom.

I finally used a calibrator to do the settings. Most people don't have access to one of these. The effects are very pronounced. I got the colors to be more saturated while avoiding the cheap effects from the dynamic setting. Also lost most of the blue tint from the white LED backlight. Didn't think I can get this much out of a TN panel with just some calibration. However it did take brightness down a notch or two. LEDs unfortunately aren't very bright so I need to run the screen near max brightness to achieve comfortable effect. Yet it isn't a deal breaker since it can still be maxed out and LEDs don't lose brightness over time (at least I don't think so).

Design: One of the major selling points is the ultra slim design. I am impressed, very impressed. Its almost as thin is the bezel part of my Dell. It has a very heavy metal stand so it feels very sturdy while being so thin. Its nearly cold to the touch even when on. I can only dream of my display being that thin and cool. The display was for my sister, and girls love neat looking things.

Overall: Its a pretty neat looking screen with dual HDMI inputs and a tiny speaker so you can plug your console in. It doesn't offer much value. You end up paying a premium for the LED backlight, much more than you would gain back from power savings. The dynamic contrast is an intimidating 8 million to 1 but in practical terms, its only good for its qouted static contrast, shows how even more useless dynamic is. Also being that thin has no practical implications. For similar amounts of money I can recommend a Dell U2311H even though that uses a cheap e-IPS it still beats out a TN by miles and for the same price why not. LED may be better than typical CCFLs in many areas such as white point, power, low profile, and dynamic contrast. It just isn't worth the price.

I also hate those LED advertisements. Companies advertising RGB LED backlights while selling white LED screens just to confuse consumers to take one technology for another.

Also remember. LED screens are LCD screens. Don't say LED or LCD, it sounds weird but many people do it. Its like taking a hybrid car and asking should you buy electric or combustion.
a b C Monitor
September 30, 2010 1:56:02 AM

Heres two photos of the two monitors I reviewed. Top is the Dell U2711. Bottom is the Acer S243HL. Both monitors are calibrated. The Dell is at 35% brightness while the Acer is at 100%. The Acer would be a lot brighter if it wasn't calibrated.

The colors are oversaturated in the photo because photobucket is compressing it. The U2711 is properly saturated while the S243HL is undersaturated. I want to show the difference and this works. Bottom line, LED doesn't improve picture quality.

September 30, 2010 5:29:58 PM

I had posted this separately, but, jaguarskx suggested I drop it in here for posterity. It's a bargain on a big monitor. I'm enjoying using it.

Thought I would share my experience with my new monitor today. I purchase the Hanns G HZ 281 from Costco this week. [...] =C&topnav=

Online price $329.99
Less -$50.00
YOUR COST $279.99

* Screen Size: 28" WUXGA TFT LCD (27.5" viewable) Computer Monitor
* Resolution: 1920 x 1200
* Response time: 3ms X-Celerate Overdrive
* Brightness: 400 cd/m²
* Contrast Ratio: 800:1
* Dynamic Ratio: 15000:1
* Viewing Angle: 170° H/160° V
* Pixel Pitch: 0.309mm

Yes, it's large and yes you get what you pay for.

The picture is adequate for most computing. I haven't tested it for gaming, so I can't say much about the claimed response time. For surfing, watching videos, editing videos, basic photo editing it's good if you need the real estate. I do because I sit just over 30" to 36" from the screen. Any closer and I think you would be better off with a smaller monitor.

I think it would be great for gaming, but, I really don't do much of that. Thought about hooking the XBOX to it, but probably won't.

The speakers are poor even for computer monitor speakers. They'd do in absolute pinch, but I can't imagine anyone using them for anything other than desperation.

I've noticed two red pixels. They don't bother me much. I guess I'm not as anal as some say.

I did some perspective photo shots so you could judge (to some degree) for yourself. The color shift is very obvious at ~55 degrees off centerline. Of course, I don't sit off center, above or below the monitor. Some minor darkening at the top. Also note, I didn't put much effort into the photos or setting angles and this is a 3 yr old Fuji Finepix camera...nothing special.

Took a second shot of the normal photo background for comparison. I think it looks ok. Good enough to read from and post at Tom's

(pics are in this thread:

Conclusion: if you know what you want and understand the monitors limitations it's an OK choice. It's certainly inexpensive per sq. in. and Costco's return policy is much more generous than online vendors with on a small hit on price.

I think gamer's and daily users that want the sq. in. will be more than satisfied.

Note, the brightness was turned up to 11 (actually 100%). I turned that down to about 40% and contrast to 50%, used the "COOL" setting because I'm so cool...actually, I prefer the bluish tint (cool). Switching to the warm or nature setting (or manual) settings might produce a more accurate image.
October 1, 2010 11:35:27 PM

So I went for the U2311H

First note, I will be keeping this monitor. I got it for about 250+ tax delivered I replaced a Viewsonic 2235WM which is a very solid TN panel.

I returned the following monitors, because none were notably better than my previous 5ms viewsonic.

Asus VW266H
Samsung 2770H
Samsung PX2370

The 2770H was big and beautiful, but too dang bright. If you turn the brightness down enough to where it won't hurt your eyes, then you can't see shadow detail, and can't see at all for that matter in FPS games such as LFD2, or anything with much fog/smoke etc.

The Asus color was just horrible. we are talking huge green tinge to the screen, and even my wife noticed how ugly the picture was compared to my 2235wm I tried to calibrate for hours with various online programs. None could get close to acceptable.

Last the PX2370 was by far the best looking TN panel I have seen, but I must say that things looked a little "washed out", and especially lighter screens appeared just a slight bit grainy. I don't know how else to describe it, but once again the color and picture was overall very good.

Anyway back to the review

Brand: Dell
-Model: U2311H
-Graphics Card: GTX260 216
-Screen Size: 23" 1080p
-Maximum Resolution: 1920x1080
-Contrast Ratio: 1000:1
-Brightness: ermm I forget
-Response Time: 8ms
-Connectors: DVI, VGA, NO HDMI if you care

Ok so everything you read stays true. The e-IPS screen has better picture and color reproduction that ANY TN panel on the market to date (at least that I have seen).
About the ghosting/lag... I don't notice hardly any. I'm sure there is a little bit, but I don't see it. I came from a 5ms TN panel, so I have never been a CRT guy and I probably don't know what I am missing, but from a 5ms TN panel to this I don't notice any ghosting, at least not enough to bother me.

Bottom line for me:
Best monitor I have laid eyes on picture / color wise.
Plenty fast for my FPS games (Bad Company 2, LFD2)

Go for the cheap IPS vs the TN world. If you are going to buy a TN panel, I recommend one of the new LED ones, although inferior picture quality to IPS, they have good color reproduction, response speed, and the lights/darks are very good.

I will update if I find any flaws with this monitor. If you want a pro review check TFT Central.. They have a great review. I'm using their ICC profile currently, and very happy with it. I think I could probably calibrate this a touch better, but I am still having fun with the newness of this screen and overall very happy with it.

*** EDIT ***

Ok So I did have a minor problem here. The thing started going screwy on me then wouldn't turn on. Very scary from a new monitor. The fix? Unplug the monitor and hold the power button down for a few seconds, plug back in, and it works fine. Been using it for several months since without a problem. I thought about returning the monitor while it was still in warranty but quite honestly I feel like I got a great panel... I don't want to return it and get a panel that is not quite as pretty (and may have the same problem).

I read a bit about this similar problem online, and found the easy fix. I assume by now the new panels won't have this same problem.
a b C Monitor
October 3, 2010 5:23:35 AM

Thanks to prnkt for this link to disassembling monitors (in this case an HP/LiteOn model but similar to many others):

It's a PDF so slow to load -- probably better to copy to your hard drive for reference if you anticipate taking apart a flatscreen.
a c 195 C Monitor
October 12, 2010 7:07:57 AM

I think Reviews and Repairs should be divided into two separate threads. That way there's no need to scroll past post that do not concern the potential poster / lurker.

Makes things look a bit more organized in my opinion.
a b C Monitor
October 13, 2010 8:40:30 PM

The title of this topic has been edited by Fihart
a b C Monitor
October 14, 2010 2:25:38 PM

jaguarskx said:
I think Reviews and Repairs should be divided into two separate threads. That way there's no need to scroll past post that do not concern the potential poster / lurker.

Makes things look a bit more organized in my opinion.

As you may notice, your wish is our command. See new dedicated Monitor Repairs Thread.
a c 76 C Monitor
March 5, 2011 6:58:03 PM

-Brand: Gateway
-Model: XHD3000
-Graphics Card: XFX Radeon 5770
-Screen Size: 30 inch
-Maximum Resolution: 2560x1600
-Static Contrast Ratio: 1000:1 (claimed; ExtremeTech measured it at 927:1)
-Brightness: 400 cd/m2 (claimed; ExtremeTech measured it at 398.7 cd/m2)
-Response Time: 6ms GTG (claimed)
-Connectors: Inputs: VGA (w/ 3.5mm audio), DVI-D (w/ 3.5mm audio), Composite (w/ RCA audio), S-Video (w/ RCA audio), Component (w/ RCA audio), HDMI, USB; Outputs: Speaker bar audio (special connector), RCA audio, S/PDIF Coax, S/PDIF Toslink, 6x USB
-Panel Type: S-PVA

It's hard for me to recommend this monitor to others, since it is now out of production, but I haven't seen a monitor of this size and resolution that's really a match for this one in terms of connectivity. Also, I may know some things about it that other reviews fail to mention.

1. 2560x1600 native resolution
2. Multi-input (DVI, VGA, HDMI, component, composite, and s-video)
3. Supports 1080p60 over both component and HDMI (this is hard to find in tuner/capture cards)
4. Remote control (which makes switching inputs easy)
5. Decent built-in speakers (not quite as good as Altec Lansing AVS200, but better than other monitor speakers I've tried, and good enough for me)
6. Can be set to 1:1 scaling (which at least works from computer input)
7. HDCP-capable over DVI (although I haven't tested this)

1. Shows new input source/resolution in the middle of the screen whenever it changes
2. Sometimes blinks off for a second or two (which also interrupts the audio).
3. Won't stretch 480i/480p to 16:9
4. Only came with a 1-year warranty (mine had some problems a month or two after the warranty expired, but I found repair service for it on eBay and got the failing part replaced and better heatsinked)
5. Gets very warm - not hot enough to be painful to touch, but it heats up my room.

1. remote signal can be passed through to an IR receiver on my computer - I haven't used this, but it seems to me it could have been designed to act as a device on the USB hub to pass signals to my computer, instead of expecting me to have a separate IR receiver for the computer.

Added 2011 Mar 30: the LaCie Blue Eye Pro I ordered arrived today, so I thought I'd add my results for using it with this monitor.

When checking the ambient light, during the day with my windowblinds closed and my lights on, it read about 160 Lux, so I decided to aim higher than LaCie's recommendation on the luminance for testing and calibrating, about 240 cd/m2. I got below 64 lux when I turned all the lights off, but then it seemed too dim for other things.

Personal settings, native resolution (85 Brightness, 1.15 gamma across all channels in CCC)

Luminance wasn't as high as I would have expected for 85 out of 100.

Personal settings, non-native resolution (45 Brightness, 40 Contrast, (Sharpness disabled), Gamma off, Black Level off, Saturation 30, Hue 50, Theme Mode Custom, Color Temp Neutral, Red 80, Green 80, Blue 80)

After checking my personal settings, I tried resetting all on my monitor to see how that compared. I also reset the video card gamma to default.

Reset to factory defaults, native resolution

Reset to factory defaults, non-native resolution

Then, I calibrated.

My first attempt to calibrate it didn't work so well, because even with the monitor's brightness set to zero, the slider remained in the green zone (maybe because the dark grays were still distinguishable?)

It took me several tries to get the luminance to come out right, but here is what the report looks like when I calibrated at native resolution

Recalibrated at non-native resolution

March 25, 2011 7:46:02 PM


I am looking to buy my first good gaming monitor and I do not know which one to buy.

I have looked at your excellent review and it seems the Asus is a good choice for the average user.
However, I would find it nice if my new monitor would have no backlight bleeding, 16 million true colors and excellent/true colors (no washed down anti-glare/TS Panel stuff).
I know these features of quality would cost me more money, so I am looking for a monitor between USD 280 and USD 780 that gives me a 'great for movies & great for gaming' quality.

Could you recommend me a monitor please?

Thank you,

a b C Monitor
March 30, 2011 7:19:05 PM

-Brand: HP
-Model: LP2465
-Graphics Card: ATI Radeon X1800 (Yes it's ancient. I'll be replacing it eventually.)
-Screen Size: 24''
-Maximum Resolution: 1920x1200
-Contrast Ratio: 1000:1
-Brightness: 500 cd/m2
-Response Time: 8ms
-Connectors: 2x DVI
-Panel Type: S-PVA
-Includes a USB hub with 4 ports

First of all, this monitor has been out of production for several years. When it was new (around 2007 I think), it was a high-end ~$1200 business monitor. Now, newegg has it refurbished for $200 (off and on, when they're out they usually have an ETA for when more will be available). From what I've seen, this is the best price for a 24'' 1920x1200 monitor, period. The next cheapest one I've seen still costs $100 more, and uses a TN panel. So if you're looking for 16:10 at 24'' on a budget, its a very good option.

Price aside, the monitor itself is very good. As it was a $1200 product initially, build quality is impressive. The stand itself is sturdier than my desk is, and the monitor itself seems sturdy. The controls for the OSD are buttons, which is a lot nicer than the wonky touch controls some monitors use, and at least to me they seem more reliable. Because I got a refurb (and the OSD has a power-time statistic), I can safely say that these are built to last. There were a few small blemishes on the bezel, but just minor cosmetic scratches I had to look for to even notice. The screen itself was good as new, and has remained so for the ~2 months I've been using it so far.

The stand has height and tilt adjustment, if you need those. I can't see raising it much above the lowest height, but if one wants to the stand will raise to nearly a foot above your desk or lower to just a few inches above it, and it will tilt toward or away from you by ~15 degrees or so. The stand also supports portrait mode, and because the panel is PVA (so won't look awful when rotated) and the monitor itself is fairly cheap, a $600 3x1 portrait layout seems feasible, although I haven't tried portrait mode with mine.

To the screen itself. This monitor is known for having a fairly high input lag. I'm hardly the one to worry about input lag, however, as this monitor has far less input lag than my laptop screen does. From what I gather, most laptop screens have fairly high input lag, so if you aren't bothered by laptop screens you aren't likely to be bothered by this monitor. It's advertised response time is 8ms. From what I gather, most modern monitors are around this value, advertised as such or not. Again, I'm coming from a panel with advertised 16ms response time, so this monitor may very well be faster. I've never noticed ghosting even on my old panel, so I'm not going to judge if it happens on this monitor. If it does happen, I don't see it.

The screen has an anti-glare coating, which I was worried about before I got it. In person, it isn't nearly as harsh as some of the other anti-glare coatings I've seen. It's not as clear as a glossy coating, but it isn't too bad. The panel itself has very vibrant colors, obviously better than the screen I was replacing when compared side by side. The panel is S-PVA, so it's naturally better than a TN panel. You won't notice a huge difference during day to day tasks, but going back to a TN monitor or comparing them side by side will make how much better it is visible. Some games do look noticeably better, while others look more or less the same. The games like gears of war, call of duty, etc that have "grey" filters don't look much different, but more vibrant games like crysis (which admittedly hardly runs at all on my machine) will look better. Both dark, shadowy areas and bright, outdoorsy areas look better. It's just the bland everyday environments that don't look much better than they do on a TN panel.

Speaking of games, a fairly important element with games is scaling. This montor doesn't really excel at scaling images. If your video card supports it (mine's mobile, so it doesn't support preserve aspect ratio, only 1:1 and full screen), scale things that way and set the monitor to 1:1. Don't both scale the image with your video card and then also the monitor's scaler, as you'll get odd side effects (when I set both to scale to full screen, there's a small 2 or 3 pixel wide strip at the bottom of the screen that seems to be misaligned and doesn't look right.) The built in scaler supports 1:1, so if you can handle running games at 1920x1200, or want the best quality picture even with aspect bars, thats the option to go with. It eliminates most of the input lag (technically), and saves you from worrying about compatible resolutions. The built-in scaler also supports fit to aspect ratio and fit to screen. I don't use fit to screen, as it stretches things, but fit to aspect ratio is functional, with a few caveats.

Some resolutions work better than others. at the low end, 640x480 and 800x600 work fine (800x600 in particular because it can be evenly doubled across the screen vertically). It's a pity 960x600 isn't supported very often by games, as it could be doubled to full screen easily for games that don't run well. The fairly common 1280x1024 resolution is not handled correctly by this monitors scaler, and neither is 1280x720, 1280x800, or 1280x anything. They are all read as 1280x860 for some reason, and scaled as such. That said, if your game/program supports 1152x720, the monitor reads and scales that correctly. Higher up, 1440x900 scales fine, as do 1600x1000, 1680x1050, 1600x1200, and obviously the native 1920x1200. While the built in scaler isn't perfect, it works for most uses, and most people buying a 1920x1200 monitor will be able to simply use the native resolution. The 1920x1080 resolution thats so popular these days is scaled properly (i.e. black bars), but it isn't really useful on this monitor as 1920x1200 is a larger resolution with very little performance hit. Another important thing about the scaler is that, no matter what its set on, it takes the screen a few seconds to switch from one resolution to another (i.e. changing a game from 1920x1200 to 1440x900 or launching a game that doesn't run at your desktop resolution) would require ~3 seconds of "check video cable" while the monitor adjusts to the resolution.

This is a strictly buisness/gaming monitor, however, as it does NOT support HDCP, and as such would not be able to play protected content without a workaround. I knew this going in, I was not interested in watching movies on my pc. Thats what TV's are for. Inputs are also just two DVI ports, so it's intended only for use as a computer monitor, not for gaming systems, blu ray players, etc.

It's also extremely bright, as many other reviews of this monitor mention. It looks very good at full brightness, but that's far too bright to use for any extended period of time. At full brightness and a white screen, it easily lights up my entire room. At a brightness setting of around 5 out of 100, it is much easier on my eyes and doesn't really lose any quality (besides brightness, obviously). The high brightness available probably contributes to the monitors also high contrast ratio. It's a tad overdone at 100/100, but turning it down to around 80 makes for a very good picture.

Overall, the price can't be beat, but you should know what you're getting into. The HP LP2465 was designed as a top of the line business monitor, and it performs well as such. The build quality is as good as it gets, and while the response time and input lag could be better they aren't bad, and the picture quality is top notch (but not professional level). As a side effect, it is also a very good gaming monitor, but probably not as good as either a 120Hz TN panel or a modern $400 IPS panel. If you are looking for a high quality 16:10 business/work monitor, or want a monitor for gaming and don't care too much about speed, the LP2465 is hard to beat. Just don't try and place it into a role it wasn't meant for.

As a final side note, this monitor runs fairly hot (warm to the touch, anyway), and is probably quite power hungry, as it was designed and built some time ago and modern screens would naturally be more efficient.
a b C Monitor
April 11, 2011 2:51:51 AM

Impressive review MauveCloud!
October 2, 2011 5:20:52 PM

It is interesting information.

I'm planning to buy a monitor.
February 21, 2012 3:24:29 PM

-Brand: LG
-Model: E-2260V
-Graphics Card: Nvidia GeForce 9600 GT XFX
-Screen Size: 21.5
-Maximum Resolution: 1900 X 1080
-Contrast Ratio: 5000000:1
-Brightness: 250 nit
-Response Time: 5ms
-Connectors: DVI-D , D-SUB, HDMI

I purchased LG E-2260V LED Monitor about a week ago. I previously owned LG-192WS LCD monitor. It gave me crystal clear video for movies and games BUT now all movie files including HD prints of movies and football videos(8min video for 400MB) such high resolution videos appear pixelated and a lot grainy.....
I called LG Customer care.. The technician told me since it is a big screen it will appear grainy....
EVEN 1080p Videos appear as grainy as those 4.4Gigs movie compressed onto a 700MB CD....
I have already spent close to 20hrs trying to fix the problem but to no avail.
Is there any solution to the above problem.....

I am currently using the VGA display cable...will DVI-D cable work better..
How to check whether output of Graphic Card is 1080p....
The default resolution of my screen is 1920 X 1080....
Even games like FIFA 11 appear with side bars of almost 2 inches on both sides...

How to check if my LED is p or i scan??
How to check output of my card...