STTNG help please

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I think I might have found the problem, it looks like the sleeve in the
diverter coil melted inside the coild and it is not allowing the
plunger to move.

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

The transistor that drives that coil is probably bad. LTG  

"Chris" <christian_arends@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1122171938.784842.19580@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> I think I might have found the problem, it looks like the sleeve in the
> diverter coil melted inside the coild and it is not allowing the
> plunger to move.
>

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I think you're on the right track here. I was thinking diverter problems.

Mark
"Chris" <christian_arends@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1122171938.784842.19580@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I think I might have found the problem, it looks like the sleeve in the
> diverter coil melted inside the coild and it is not allowing the
> plunger to move.
>

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

So it looks like the transistor for that coil is Q15 and it sits in
between the large heatsinks on the driver board, is it possible to
remove the heat sinks or how in the world do you remove and solder that
tiny little thing with those huge things around it?

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

The lower divertor under the playfield, the one that has the big metal
claw looking divertor piece. I saw the fliptronics board also has a Q15
transistor, but the manual says it's on the driver board. Maybe I'm
just reading it wrong...

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

The 8 Driver PS Board? So am I still correct in saying that it's the
Q15 transistor? TIP 102NPN.

Thanks for the help.

-Chris

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

It is indeed the Q15 that drives the diverter. Let's say, this problem
is common on STTNG... I had similiar problem with 8 Driver PCB board.
Replace the Q15 transitor, and its predriver... also makes sure your
divertor coil is working good too. If you are not sure as to how to
unsolder (which i thought was pretty hard because the PCB board is
pretty small) send it out to repair to Clive.

Duke

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Or is it the Q16.. I am confusing myself now..

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Hi Chris,
Which divertor? The transistors for them are usually on the small aux driver
board next to the driver board

Tony
"Chris" <christian_arends@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1122266445.634997.176280@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> So it looks like the transistor for that coil is Q15 and it sits in
> between the large heatsinks on the driver board, is it possible to
> remove the heat sinks or how in the world do you remove and solder that
> tiny little thing with those huge things around it?
>

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

If you replace Q16 and Q8 and your coil fries again. try the 50 volt
line modification. This should help resolve any coil from locking on in
that row.

I was having the same problem when I got my STtNG. Sol. 37, the Under
Divertor Top is locking on and melting the coil. The first time I
replaced the coil, Q16 transistor and the Q8 pre-driver on the
auxiliary driver board.. The game worked fine for two weeks. Then the
Coil melted again.

I created a link on my web page that show how to do the 50 volt line
modification.
http://www.jeffpinball.com/Gameroom/STtNG/50volttieback... With the
help of RGP group I fix it and have not had any problems since.

Jeff

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Nope. What you are looking for is GI lighting. It is not on the big power
driver board. It is on the small auxiliary driver board right next to it. It
is on the right of power board, in the right upper corner of the backbox.
Look there.

Adi
www.txpinball.com


"Chris" <christian_arends@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1122266445.634997.176280@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> So it looks like the transistor for that coil is Q15 and it sits in
> between the large heatsinks on the driver board, is it possible to
> remove the heat sinks or how in the world do you remove and solder that
> tiny little thing with those huge things around it?
>

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

According to the manual, it looks like Q15 is for the lower divertor
and Q16 for top divertor. I tried doing the coil test and the top
divertor isn't moving either but the coil on that one seems fine. So
I'm guessing Q16 is bad also. I'll give the 50 Volt tieback a try
also, I've heard somthing like this needs to be done to the drop target
solenoid also. Does anyone know what the part number for the Q8
predriver is? I'll have to make another order because I only ordered
the transistor today.

Thanks alot for the help, this being my first project things can seem a
little overwhelming at times. You guys certainly make it easier to
learn. Thanks again.

-Chris

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Hold on. I am not saying you are correct or not. Do you want to be
absolutely sure what transistor it is? Do this:
Go to diagnostics,
Go to tests,
go to solenoid tests,
get to the solenoid in question
press the Start button (like you're starting a game)
Diagnostics will give you the following information: What wires go to coil
from the board
What connector they connect to
What fuse the solenoid uses
What transistors drive it

Then you'll know if it's Q15 or something else. Best of luck!
Adi
www.txpinball.com



"Chris" <christian_arends@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1122321475.669733.83090@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> The 8 Driver PS Board? So am I still correct in saying that it's the
> Q15 transistor? TIP 102NPN.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> -Chris
>

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

You need to replace it all or the coil and drivers will blow again. By
"all" I mean both the pre-driver transistor, driver transistor (and the
coil if it smoked). Then to fix the problem add a new 50 volt tie back
wire.

The original 50 volt tieback wire is too small and fails. Its not
because it can't carry enough current; the tieback circuit does not
carry hardly any current. The problem is that the small wire is weak
and slowely breaks mechanically. When it breaks it fails to supply 50
volts to the small driver board. When this happens the CPU cannot
command the diverter coil "off" once it has been commanded "on" and
everything heats up 'til it lets the smoke out.

Run an entire parallel 50 volt tieback wire (get familiar with the
pinouts and schematics first) and replace anything that is suspect.
This fixed mine after blowing more coils and transistors than I care to
admit.

Good luck

John

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

>Then to fix the problem add a new 50 volt tie back wire.

I got an email that identifies WHAT wire you are talking about. You
don't mean the wire from the coils to the driver, but the wire that
goes to the aux driver board. It was difficult to determine that this
was the wire you are talking about.

I agree, this wire should be replaced or doubled up with a new
connector pin.

Kirb

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Ok so I'm really confused now. When I do the coil test, the top and
bottom diverters say Drives Q82-81-71 do I need to replace those also?
Are they on the big board or the Aux board. The coil I'm talking about
is not the same one on Jeff(Jaw)'s site it's the coil with the big
metal claw looking thing and the smaller one just above it, do they
need the larger wire also? If I do, do i just look for the Violet/Green
wire and replace it or add on to it the larger wire? Sorry I'm new at
this.

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

That wasn't the problem. Some idiot Op put a 10 amp fuse where there
should have been a much lower rating.

Cheers
Macman

In article <1122379349.786323.131350@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
"PT" <zeecarr1@earthlink.net> wrote:

> You need to replace it all or the coil and drivers will blow again. By
> "all" I mean both the pre-driver transistor, driver transistor (and the
> coil if it smoked). Then to fix the problem add a new 50 volt tie back
> wire.
>
> The original 50 volt tieback wire is too small and fails. Its not
> because it can't carry enough current; the tieback circuit does not
> carry hardly any current. The problem is that the small wire is weak
> and slowely breaks mechanically. When it breaks it fails to supply 50
> volts to the small driver board. When this happens the CPU cannot
> command the diverter coil "off" once it has been commanded "on" and
> everything heats up 'til it lets the smoke out.
>
> Run an entire parallel 50 volt tieback wire (get familiar with the
> pinouts and schematics first) and replace anything that is suspect.
> This fixed mine after blowing more coils and transistors than I care to
> admit.
>
> Good luck
>
> John

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Hi Chris,

Sounds so familiar! Trust in Clay's guides (pinballHQ) - I fixed the one I
was working on basec on this and help from the group.
1. Check that tieback (not my issue)
2. Check that the coils used on both divertors are the correct items. (No
kidding- Clay says this and he is right)
3. Now check the fuse associated
4. Then test all transistors in the circuit for each coil. I have not
looked at the schematic and if you want to make sure ask and I'll check. I'm
guessing they are toast

Let me reinforce correct coils. I struggled with an STTNG and just did not
belive that specific coils were important. 780 games later (on location)
with no faults prove they were

Cheers

Tony
where being CARGPB18 did not help!

"Chris" <christian_arends@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1122351419.260305.120310@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> According to the manual, it looks like Q15 is for the lower divertor
> and Q16 for top divertor. I tried doing the coil test and the top
> divertor isn't moving either but the coil on that one seems fine. So
> I'm guessing Q16 is bad also. I'll give the 50 Volt tieback a try
> also, I've heard somthing like this needs to be done to the drop target
> solenoid also. Does anyone know what the part number for the Q8
> predriver is? I'll have to make another order because I only ordered
> the transistor today.
>
> Thanks alot for the help, this being my first project things can seem a
> little overwhelming at times. You guys certainly make it easier to
> learn. Thanks again.
>
> -Chris
>

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Oh... And while we're on correct coils...

Every pin you get check each and every fuse and ensure they are the
correct rating. If you don't think this is important I can show you a
wire wrapped 8 driver bd. The exploding transistors blew two holes in
the board before the fuse blew.

Cheers
MacMan

In article <42e612d7$1@dnews.tpgi.com.au>,
"Tony Holdgate" <tonyholdgate@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Chris,
>
> Sounds so familiar! Trust in Clay's guides (pinballHQ) - I fixed the one I
> was working on basec on this and help from the group.
> 1. Check that tieback (not my issue)
> 2. Check that the coils used on both divertors are the correct items. (No
> kidding- Clay says this and he is right)
> 3. Now check the fuse associated
> 4. Then test all transistors in the circuit for each coil. I have not
> looked at the schematic and if you want to make sure ask and I'll check. I'm
> guessing they are toast
>
> Let me reinforce correct coils. I struggled with an STTNG and just did not
> belive that specific coils were important. 780 games later (on location)
> with no faults prove they were
>
> Cheers
>
> Tony
> where being CARGPB18 did not help!
>
> "Chris" <christian_arends@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1122351419.260305.120310@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> > According to the manual, it looks like Q15 is for the lower divertor
> > and Q16 for top divertor. I tried doing the coil test and the top
> > divertor isn't moving either but the coil on that one seems fine. So
> > I'm guessing Q16 is bad also. I'll give the 50 Volt tieback a try
> > also, I've heard somthing like this needs to be done to the drop target
> > solenoid also. Does anyone know what the part number for the Q8
> > predriver is? I'll have to make another order because I only ordered
> > the transistor today.
> >
> > Thanks alot for the help, this being my first project things can seem a
> > little overwhelming at times. You guys certainly make it easier to
> > learn. Thanks again.
> >
> > -Chris
> >