Tech: Gottlieb 300

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Re the three/two wire thing: might simply be that the Player2 coil is
the "end of the run" for the power lead going to a bunch of coils.
If there are missing wires on the decagon unit, that sounds a bit
strange. Do you mean that some contact points have no wires, or just
(as with the coil) some have a single wire instead of a continuation
second wire?

Have you tried the usual things -- put a jumper on the "carry" switch on
the 1000 reel to be sure there's electrical contact? (that's the switch
which closes only when the reel is in the 9 -to- 0 position). Have you
verified that the Player2 10,000 coil is OK? I recommend jumpering
power directly to it, rather than playing ohmmeter games.

In article <1122404800.434721.42170@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
"Ron Donohue" <rdonohue@hoyt.org> wrote:

> I recently picked up a Gottlieb 300 as part of a package deal. It took
> me a while to get it going, but everything seems to be working
> properly, with the exception of the 10,000's digit on player 2. It
> does not roll over when the 1,000s digit goes from 9-0. I checked the
> switches on both the 10,000's and the 1,000's, but they are right,
> given the other working displays as a guide. I have ordered a
> schematic, but do not have it in my hands at the moment. So, I thought
> I would see if anyone had any ideas in the interim.
>
> The only odd thing I that the coil lugs for all of the other players
> 10,000's digits have three wires, one on one lug and two on the other.
> For some reason, there are only two wires going to this coil, one on
> each lug. In other places where the other player 10,000 units have two
> wires (like on the contact points on the board on the right hand side
> of the decagon unit) on this 10,000 unit there is only one wire at each
> point. Everything looks clean, there are no obvious wires cut or
> hanging loose, and the solders look nice, clean and original. I do not
> know if this is typical, so I thought I would ask.
>
> Anyone have any thoughts on why the wires would be different on this
> unit? Can someone please check their Player 2 10,000 decagon unit and
> their other units to see how many wires are soldered to each lug on the
> coil?
>
> By the way, when I lifted the playfield, the board is signed "Ed K." on
> the underside in cursive with an orange marker. I am curious if this is
> typical , as the designer was Ed Krynski, or just someone fooling
> around. Any thoughts or ideas greatly appreciated on any of these
> questions.
>
> By the way, this game is a lot of fun to play. I think I like it
> better than the Strato-Flite that came as part of the deal, although
> the Strato-Flite is in in great shape and the 300 is a bit rough.
>
> Ron

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Follow up on repair. Following Carl's advice, I jumpered the switch to
the coil. There was a wire broken that was stuck in the middle of the
bundle. So, I replaced the wire and now the 10,000s advances as it
should. Thanks for the assistance Carl.


Ron


Ron Donohue wrote:
> Carl:
>
> My face is red. I went back and looked quickly last night, and of
> course the wire count is because Player 2 is the end of the run. I do
> not know what I was thinking, my only excuse was that it was late when
> I got to that part. It stymied me so I finished working on the game
> and I did not think it through prior to posting.
>
> For some reason, I fixated on the wiring configuration being a problem
> (no idea why I did) and did not move forward to do the usual stuff,
> including jumpering. Now that you have suggested it, I feel kind of
> silly for not thinking of it myself, but sometimes that is the way it
> goes. Jumpering is the right way to go. Thanks for bringing me back
> on target.
>
> Thanks much for the advice, and I will report back once I figure out
> what is wrong.
>
> Ron
>
> Carl Witthoft wrote:
> > Re the three/two wire thing: might simply be that the Player2 coil is
> > the "end of the run" for the power lead going to a bunch of coils.
> > If there are missing wires on the decagon unit, that sounds a bit
> > strange. Do you mean that some contact points have no wires, or just
> > (as with the coil) some have a single wire instead of a continuation
> > second wire?
> >
> > Have you tried the usual things -- put a jumper on the "carry" switch on
> > the 1000 reel to be sure there's electrical contact? (that's the switch
> > which closes only when the reel is in the 9 -to- 0 position). Have you
> > verified that the Player2 10,000 coil is OK? I recommend jumpering
> > power directly to it, rather than playing ohmmeter games.
> >
> > In article <1122404800.434721.42170@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
> > "Ron Donohue" <rdonohue@hoyt.org> wrote:
> >
> > > I recently picked up a Gottlieb 300 as part of a package deal. It took
> > > me a while to get it going, but everything seems to be working
> > > properly, with the exception of the 10,000's digit on player 2. It
> > > does not roll over when the 1,000s digit goes from 9-0. I checked the
> > > switches on both the 10,000's and the 1,000's, but they are right,
> > > given the other working displays as a guide. I have ordered a
> > > schematic, but do not have it in my hands at the moment. So, I thought
> > > I would see if anyone had any ideas in the interim.
> > >
> > > The only odd thing I that the coil lugs for all of the other players
> > > 10,000's digits have three wires, one on one lug and two on the other.
> > > For some reason, there are only two wires going to this coil, one on
> > > each lug. In other places where the other player 10,000 units have two
> > > wires (like on the contact points on the board on the right hand side
> > > of the decagon unit) on this 10,000 unit there is only one wire at each
> > > point. Everything looks clean, there are no obvious wires cut or
> > > hanging loose, and the solders look nice, clean and original. I do not
> > > know if this is typical, so I thought I would ask.
> > >
> > > Anyone have any thoughts on why the wires would be different on this
> > > unit? Can someone please check their Player 2 10,000 decagon unit and
> > > their other units to see how many wires are soldered to each lug on the
> > > coil?
> > >
> > > By the way, when I lifted the playfield, the board is signed "Ed K." on
> > > the underside in cursive with an orange marker. I am curious if this is
> > > typical , as the designer was Ed Krynski, or just someone fooling
> > > around. Any thoughts or ideas greatly appreciated on any of these
> > > questions.
> > >
> > > By the way, this game is a lot of fun to play. I think I like it
> > > better than the Strato-Flite that came as part of the deal, although
> > > the Strato-Flite is in in great shape and the 300 is a bit rough.
> > >
> > > Ron