Put and end to Game Resets

Ed

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OK, this may not stop ALL resets, but it will permanently stop resets
due to low voltage. This seems to be the most common issue and
typically happens when both flippers are pressed.

If you are having this problem, you can do a simple mod to your game.
Purchase a 5 volt switching power supply that has an output of 8 to 10
amps. These are available for about 5 bucks at Jameco.com. They will
provide stable 5v DC with an AC supply as low as about 93 volts input.
You can tap ac power from the power main power supply (before the
game's transformer but after the power switch. You tap in the 5 volts
at connector J114 on the driver board. Simply cut the two middle (of
the six) wires. This is where the 5v leaves the board and goes to the
MPU and dot matrix controller. You can leave the new power supply in
the bottom of the cabinet.

I am not sure why this is not a popular mod. I am no electrical guru,
so I can't possibly be the first to think of this. No, I do not want
to offer kits, but will be happy to provide more info if there is
general interest. This upgrade is solid and will allow you to play
your games through the summer months when the voltage seems to drop.

Ed Faerman
 
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Nothing is more annoying than being stuck inside when it is 100 degrees
outside and not being able to play your games because everybody is
running the AC and draining the available power. Happens every summer
down here in south FL.

Yeah it ain't factory, but what's the point of having your game factory
if you can't play??

Thanks for the set-up, Ed

NO MORE SUMMER RESETS!

Jeff
 
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THe only game I have problems with reseting when power is short is TZ.
Never had a problem with any other game so far.

neo
 

Ed

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Most of the power supplies you can get will work fine as low as about
93 volts ac. The only part of the game that is very sensitive to minor
dips in line voltage is the 5v section. I am not talking about running
your machine at 100 volts ac. I am talking about when the summer
demands drop the line voltage from 120v to 117v. The 5v power supply
section of the board was designed way too close to the edge and such
minor dips in the voltage will cause resets. This is a design flaw in
my opinion (yes, I know that the designers knew what they were doing).
Maybe this is not a problem in other parts of the country, but it sure
is here in Florida. Non-WCS games don't exhibit this problem.

There is nothing you can do at the outlet to fix this problem - we are
talking about your entire neighborhood or county operating at 117v or
so instead of the optimum 120v.

Ed
 
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If line voltage goes low, won't the switching power supply 5 volt go low too
? This seems to not be a good answer. And even if you stop resets by low
line power, your bulbs and coils will still feel the effects. I think you'd
be better off fixing the problem at the outlet. Games on seperate lines,
something to keep line power stable. LTG :)

"Ed" <efaerman@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1122845925.918573.29170@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> OK, this may not stop ALL resets, but it will permanently stop resets
> due to low voltage. This seems to be the most common issue and
> typically happens when both flippers are pressed.
>
> If you are having this problem, you can do a simple mod to your game.
> Purchase a 5 volt switching power supply that has an output of 8 to 10
> amps. These are available for about 5 bucks at Jameco.com. They will
> provide stable 5v DC with an AC supply as low as about 93 volts input.
> You can tap ac power from the power main power supply (before the
> game's transformer but after the power switch. You tap in the 5 volts
> at connector J114 on the driver board. Simply cut the two middle (of
> the six) wires. This is where the 5v leaves the board and goes to the
> MPU and dot matrix controller. You can leave the new power supply in
> the bottom of the cabinet.
>
> I am not sure why this is not a popular mod. I am no electrical guru,
> so I can't possibly be the first to think of this. No, I do not want
> to offer kits, but will be happy to provide more info if there is
> general interest. This upgrade is solid and will allow you to play
> your games through the summer months when the voltage seems to drop.
>
> Ed Faerman
>
 
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"Jeff Palmer" <bigshermantruck@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:1122846579.665910.128050@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

> Nothing is more annoying than being stuck inside when it is 100 degrees
> outside and not being able to play your games because everybody is
> running the AC and draining the available power. Happens every summer
> down here in south FL.
>
> Yeah it ain't factory, but what's the point of having your game factory
> if you can't play??
>
> Thanks for the set-up, Ed
>
> NO MORE SUMMER RESETS!

You know, a used autoformer runs around $50 on ebay these days. You can
dial the voltage back up (within reason...) with one of those; no hacking
inside your game required!

(Yeah, I know it's more expensive solution, but I -loathe- hacks like
this.)
 
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On Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:58:19 GMT, TheKorn <TheKorn@TheKorn.Net> wrote:

[...]

>>
>> NO MORE SUMMER RESETS!
>
>You know, a used autoformer runs around $50 on ebay these days. You can
>dial the voltage back up (within reason...) with one of those; no hacking
>inside your game required!
>
>(Yeah, I know it's more expensive solution, but I -loathe- hacks like
>this.)

Agreed. An autoformer or brownout-boosing line conditioner is the way
to go.
 
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"TheKorn" <TheKorn@TheKorn.Net> wrote in message
news:Xns96A4B6D35C689qqwwaass@207.115.63.158...
> "Jeff Palmer" <bigshermantruck@hotmail.com> wrote in
> news:1122846579.665910.128050@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:
>
>>
> You know, a used autoformer runs around $50 on ebay these days. You can
> dial the voltage back up (within reason...) with one of those; no hacking
> inside your game required!
>
> (Yeah, I know it's more expensive solution, but I -loathe- hacks like
> this.)

In general, I agree-I don't like hacks either. However, my WPC games
suffering from the reset issue had unfortunately already seen their fair
share of work prior to my owning them, so I didn't feel this was "violating"
anything in the name of game purity per se. (I wish all of my games were
ultra cherry but they are not). Besides, it doesn't change anything
electrically on the boards at all.

It seems to work, my games don't reset and I can run my AC and everyone else
can too :)

Jeff
 
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I'd be mildly concerned about running the CPU and power driver board from
different +5V supplies, given that the CPU feeds a number of logic signals
back to the power driver board via the ribbon cable at J113. It would seem
more reasonable to remove the +5V logic fuse (F113) from the power driver
board and power all of the logic (CPU *and* power driver) from the same
supply. Something in the back of my mind is nagging about the use of dual
supplies, but I can't put my finger on it; possibly just over-cautious.

Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic

In article <1122852334.949691.183800@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>, "Ed"
<efaerman@gmail.com> wrote:
>Most of the power supplies you can get will work fine as low as about
>93 volts ac. The only part of the game that is very sensitive to minor
>dips in line voltage is the 5v section. I am not talking about running
>your machine at 100 volts ac. I am talking about when the summer
>demands drop the line voltage from 120v to 117v. The 5v power supply
>section of the board was designed way too close to the edge and such
>minor dips in the voltage will cause resets. This is a design flaw in
>my opinion (yes, I know that the designers knew what they were doing).
>Maybe this is not a problem in other parts of the country, but it sure
>is here in Florida. Non-WCS games don't exhibit this problem.
>
>There is nothing you can do at the outlet to fix this problem - we are
>talking about your entire neighborhood or county operating at 117v or
>so instead of the optimum 120v.
>
>Ed
>
 
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> Something in the back of my mind is nagging about the use of dual
> supplies, but I can't put my finger on it; possibly just over-cautious.


I'd be worried too. Ground differential could bite you...

Jack
 
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I was "Lost in the Zone" tonight on my TZ and the damm thing reset! I'm
going to look into this. Thanks!!!

Dave

Jeff Palmer wrote:
> "TheKorn" <TheKorn@TheKorn.Net> wrote in message
> news:Xns96A4B6D35C689qqwwaass@207.115.63.158...
>
>>"Jeff Palmer" <bigshermantruck@hotmail.com> wrote in
>>news:1122846579.665910.128050@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:
>>
>>
>>You know, a used autoformer runs around $50 on ebay these days. You can
>>dial the voltage back up (within reason...) with one of those; no hacking
>>inside your game required!
>>
>>(Yeah, I know it's more expensive solution, but I -loathe- hacks like
>>this.)
>
>
> In general, I agree-I don't like hacks either. However, my WPC games
> suffering from the reset issue had unfortunately already seen their fair
> share of work prior to my owning them, so I didn't feel this was "violating"
> anything in the name of game purity per se. (I wish all of my games were
> ultra cherry but they are not). Besides, it doesn't change anything
> electrically on the boards at all.
>
> It seems to work, my games don't reset and I can run my AC and everyone else
> can too :)
>
> Jeff
>
>
 
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>You know, a used autoformer runs around $50 on ebay these days. You can
>dial the voltage back up (within reason...) with one of those; no hacking
>inside your game required!

I don't like this idea either since you have to constantly watch the
voltage to make sure you don't go too high or the voltage goes high
when you are not around.

Kirb
 

Ed

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If you would have thoroughly researched this problem, you would realize
that I did not just make this stuff up. Read up on the subject and
talk to people that know electronics. Yes, the 5v section of the power
supply frizzes out enough when the line voltage drops to somewhere in
the 115v - 117v range as to cause the watchdog circuitry on the CPU
and/or the comparator circuitry on the Power/Driver board to sense a
voltage loss and cause a reset. Calling it a San Andreas fault may be
a valid comparison. You probably have no experience with this issue,
but many have.

So you are suggesting a retap. That means I alter the characteristics
of the rest of the machine to run at low volts. Now GI's see higher
voltage. So do the coils and the rest of the machine. I guess when
evening comes and the system wide electrical load (not just the voltage
at my house) goes back up to 120 v, I should just rejumper the machine.
I guess I could get some kind of voltage monitoring system on the
house and molex the transformer so that I can hop back and forth
between high and low tap on the transformer based on the season and the
time of the day. I could even rig up a fancy make-before-break
transfer switch so that I can change the tap setting during play if the
voltage crosses a certain threshhold one way or the other.

For those that have suggested line conditioners, these work when the
voltage varies frequently, not when the voltage sags for an extended
period of time. An inexpensive conditioner just won't keep up.

It is weird that you think rerouting two wires off the power-driver
board is a "hack", but you have revamped the sound system and that is
"customized," practically better than factory. I am really not here to
convince anyone of the merit of this idea, I am just putting it out
there as a practical solution for other hobbyists that might want to
actually play their games and do not have some mystical fascination
with keeping everything "in the exact perfection that the designers
intended."

Having said that, if there are valid issues with this fix, I would love
to hear those too. Something other than "this is just a hack and we
hate hacks," or "it just doesn't seem right." If you research and ask
people in the know about these things, you may find out that this fix
just might be ok. But maybe you are the kind of guy that wouldn't
accept a pacemaker or use insulin injections because then it would make
you less than factory?

Bottom line, here is potentially useful information that someone may be
interested in. If it doesn't "feel" right to you, then just move on to
the "opinions wanted" thread, those bashing on BBB, or whatever else
interests you. Sorry I tried to contribute.

Ed
 
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>I think I'd go there first, an autoformer second, then get out the sickel
>and start hacking away.

I agree. I think I would rather see someone put a +12V DC switcher in
place of the transformer output than start messing with the +5 section.
The +5 comes from the 12V ac, so you just make 12V DC at the
transformer connector and the rectifier at the driver board doesn't do
too much anymore.

I've seen this hack in a BSD and it worked just fine. Still a major
hack, though.

Kirb
 
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>You probably have no experience with this issue, but many have.

GLOVES OFF! You are going down the wrong road to prove you point, ed...

>I guess when evening comes and the system wide electrical load (not just the voltage
>at my house) goes back up to 120 v, I should just rejumper the machine. (remainder of sarcasam deleted)

Actually, the electrical load goes down at night and causes reduction
in the overhead line losses to bring the voltage back around to normal
(120V). THAT is from someone in the know.

>It is weird that you think rerouting two wires off the power-driver board is a "hack

Maybe you should have done more research and thought about doing mods
to the 12Vac off the transformer with a power supply and not mess with
hacking the power driver board. Much cleaner.

>If you research and ask people in the know about these things, you may find out that this fix
>just might be ok.

I did ask a person who knows (how to properly fix games)- me. I parts
that are suspect and fix the games the way they were ment to be and I
never have a reset issue. BTW- sometimes the resets have NOTHING to do
with +5V. Just ask Mike S.

>Sorry I tried to contribute.

It's your right to contribute to a public forum, just as we are free to
make comments. You act like RGP attacked your family or something.
People would rather fix the games properly when possible. Other people
who have cronic problems might be interested in your mod.

Kirb
 
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I just fix the original problem(s), and my
games all work just fine.

<shrug>

Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
==========================
Ed wrote:
> OK, this may not stop ALL resets, but it will permanently stop resets
> due to low voltage. This seems to be the most common issue and
> typically happens when both flippers are pressed.
 
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I was having constant resets on my Getaway. You litterally couldnt
play more than 5 seconds into a game without a reset. On Saturday I
replaced every Bridge Rectifier & Capacaitor on the power driver board,
and guess what? No more resets. I even left it powered on all day,
playing a game every hour or so without a single reset!

These games didnt come out of the box resetting...or did they? It
seems to me that driver board repair is the answer.

Barry - NY
 
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>With that said, it's possible that you could have such a foul power
>situation that a hack like this may be necessary. _possibly_. But I
>kind of doubt it.

Most power utilities are required by the PSC to keep a voltage in the
range of whatever base (120V) to +5% and -10%. Check your location for
what the range is.

That would be (in Consumers Energy areas) 126V to 108V. The low end of
that range can give you problems, but you don't often see the voltage
going from 120V to 108 volts on a regular basis. Chances are you start
out low and go lower (RETAP!). This happens on long distribution lines
where you are at the end. The utility will adjust the voltage at the
substation every minute or so changing taps to keep the voltage under
control close to the sub and (hopfully) within spec at the end of the
line.

I would bitch to the utility if your voltage is dropping lower than 108
or so. Often they will look at the problem with a voltage recorder and
determine if you need in-line regulators to solve a low voltage
situation. Get tough if you have to.

Kirb
 
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>You mean I^2 R really works?? ;)

As long as you don't forget the cosine of the phase angle!

Kirb
 
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"Jeff Palmer" <bigshermantruck@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:kDdHe.23311$Ie1.14569@bignews1.bellsouth.net:

> In general, I agree-I don't like hacks either. However, my WPC games
> suffering from the reset issue had unfortunately already seen their
> fair share of work prior to my owning them, so I didn't feel this was
> "violating" anything in the name of game purity per se. (I wish all of
> my games were ultra cherry but they are not). Besides, it doesn't
> change anything electrically on the boards at all.
>
> It seems to work, my games don't reset and I can run my AC and
> everyone else can too :)

The other thing is... why not jumper the game for low line conditions in
the first place? WPC transformers have a -second- tap position designed
to handle line voltage all the way down to 103VAC. (Normal position
handling 120VAC.) A simple change of the jumpering plug way in the front
of the cabinet, and you'd be good to go! Additionally, you could keep
the other one handy for winter... Five seconds, and you can jumper it
back!

I think I'd go there first, an autoformer second, then get out the sickel
and start hacking away.

Not sure if sys11 is the same, but I wouldn't be surprised. Luckily my
house voltage is rock steady around 122VAC, so I've never had to find
out. :)

Wolffy had to re-jumper his games when he moved into the projects; very
low (105VAC?) line voltage in his place during the summer. His TZ was
resetting quite often. Rejumped it for low AC, and hasn't been a problem
since.
 
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"Ed" <efaerman@gmail.com> wrote in news:1122852334.949691.183800
@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

> Most of the power supplies you can get will work fine as low as about
> 93 volts ac. The only part of the game that is very sensitive to minor
> dips in line voltage is the 5v section. I am not talking about running
> your machine at 100 volts ac. I am talking about when the summer
> demands drop the line voltage from 120v to 117v. The 5v power supply
> section of the board was designed way too close to the edge and such
> minor dips in the voltage will cause resets. This is a design flaw in
> my opinion (yes, I know that the designers knew what they were doing).
> Maybe this is not a problem in other parts of the country, but it sure
> is here in Florida. Non-WCS games don't exhibit this problem.

Ed, while I'm glad you found a solution that works for you, now you're
just talking crazy saying less than a 2% drop will cause a reset. If WPC
+5V section was _that_ sensitive to voltage fluctuations, you wouldn't be
able to turn on your AC, your refridgerator, or heck even your
_microwave_ without resetting all of your games. (For that matter, you
wouldn't be able to turn on any of your other games!!)

While I agree the +5V supply isn't the best, it's not a San Andreas fault
when properly working! A better solution is to jump the game for low AC
voltage; address the _root_ cause, rather than hack the machine.

You may have such a bad situation that you may need to hack the machine
anyway, but did you even _try_ the 103V tap on the transformer? Hmmm?
 
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Ed, I asked you a VERY SIMPLE QUESTION: DID YOU TRY rejumpering the game
for low line condition? If you didn't, then you DID NOT TRY all of the
stock options available to you. PERIOD, END OF STORY!

If you didn't try it, then hacking your game is a BAD solution. Again,
_end_ of story!

Now, on to your post:


"Ed" <efaerman@gmail.com> wrote in news:1122898789.009378.308910
@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

> If you would have thoroughly researched this problem, you would realize
> that I did not just make this stuff up. Read up on the subject and
> talk to people that know electronics. Yes, the 5v section of the power
> supply frizzes out enough when the line voltage drops to somewhere in
> the 115v - 117v range as to cause the watchdog circuitry on the CPU
> and/or the comparator circuitry on the Power/Driver board to sense a
> voltage loss and cause a reset. Calling it a San Andreas fault may be
> a valid comparison. You probably have no experience with this issue,
> but many have.

Actually, I've had quite a bit of experience with this issue. How do you
think I know about the low voltage tap? It certainly wasn't from reading
RGP! (Almost all of the past info on RGP on it is _wrong_.)

> So you are suggesting a retap. That means I alter the characteristics
> of the rest of the machine to run at low volts. Now GI's see higher
> voltage. So do the coils and the rest of the machine.

The GI might be an issue. Maybe. But a 20% boost (from 6.3VAC to
7.5VAC) isn't going to do much. Remember, those lamps take +12V when
they're being used in the lamp matrix!

As for the coils, have you ever played an EM machine!?? Those same coils
are taking 110VAC!! COME ON, MAN! Those coils are going to be -just-
fine. And as for the TIP36Cs controlling them, they're rated all the way
up to 100V. Going from 50V up to 60V is NOT GOING TO DO A DAMN THING TO
THEM. Tip102's are even more widely specced, going all the way up to
120V! Nope, no problems _there_, either.

Of course, this assumes that there genuinely is 120V coming in, and
you've left the game at the low voltage setting. _nothing_ will happen,
other than the regulators now putting out more heat because they have to
regulate the voltage down farther. Granted, that's not the optimal
solution, but in home use, who cares.

> I guess when
> evening comes and the system wide electrical load (not just the voltage
> at my house) goes back up to 120 v, I should just rejumper the machine.

Didn't say that. It's safe to ignore it; the components can take it.
(see above) With that said, it would shorten the life of the regulators
if you leave your games on for long periods of time. (I'm willing to
admit that.)

> I guess I could get some kind of voltage monitoring system on the
> house and molex the transformer so that I can hop back and forth
> between high and low tap on the transformer based on the season and the
> time of the day. I could even rig up a fancy make-before-break
> transfer switch so that I can change the tap setting during play if the
> voltage crosses a certain threshhold one way or the other.

It's your money, do what you want with it. If you're so worried about
your power supply, why not make an entire regulated supply, re-regulating
the +50, +25, +12, and +/-100V while you're at it??

> For those that have suggested line conditioners, these work when the
> voltage varies frequently, not when the voltage sags for an extended
> period of time. An inexpensive conditioner just won't keep up.

....which is exactly the reason why they put in a low voltage tap.

> It is weird that you think rerouting two wires off the power-driver
> board is a "hack"

It's a _hack_ when you don't do it completely. If you remove the +5V
supply from the rest of the machine, jump yours in, and then tie the
ground planes together (both case AND logic), then I'd feel better about
it. But you've only replaced the +5V section for _one_ board without
equalizing the logic grounds between boards. What happens if/when the
game's +5V is sitting +5V higher than yours? Answer: the magic smoke
escapes!

> but you have revamped the sound system and that is
> "customized," practically better than factory.

Honestly, no-one has ever had the discussion on whether my stuff is a
hack or not. It is, although (if I do say so myself!) a rather nicely
done hack with a parallel power supply. ;)

(In case you're wondering, I tie the chassis grounds together, but _not_
logic ground since I'm not taking any logic signals from one system to
the other.)

> I am really not here to
> convince anyone of the merit of this idea, I am just putting it out
> there as a practical solution for other hobbyists that might want to
> actually play their games and do not have some mystical fascination
> with keeping everything "in the exact perfection that the designers
> intended."

That's _fine_. The first words on my reply were that I was happy that
you found a solution that works for you. But I'd be hesitant to try that
solution without first exploring ALL of the options that were _built_
_in_ to the game by the designers.

With that said, it's possible that you could have such a foul power
situation that a hack like this may be necessary. _possibly_. But I
kind of doubt it.

> Having said that, if there are valid issues with this fix, I would love
> to hear those too.

See above on case vs. logic grounds.

> Bottom line, here is potentially useful information that someone may be
> interested in. If it doesn't "feel" right to you, then just move on to
> the "opinions wanted" thread, those bashing on BBB, or whatever else
> interests you. Sorry I tried to contribute.

Disagreeing with your opinion doesn't automatically make your opinion (or
solution) invalid. It just means it's your opinion, just as how this
post reflects mine. Many, many people have poked holes in the CFTBL pop
bumper mod, for example. Some have come up with better solutions, some,
well.... :)

The point is that if you get all bent out of shape when _anyone_
disagrees with your implimentation, then you're going to have a hard go
of it. People AREN'T always going to agree. Sorry I don't agree with
you on this one, but I just _don't_.
 
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"kirb" <kirbseepe@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1122899517.504144.122020@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

>>I guess when evening comes and the system wide electrical load (not
>>just the voltage at my house) goes back up to 120 v, I should just
>>rejumper the machine. (remainder of sarcasam deleted)
>
> Actually, the electrical load goes down at night and causes reduction
> in the overhead line losses to bring the voltage back around to normal
> (120V). THAT is from someone in the know.

You mean I^2 R really works?? ;)
 
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One thing I will disagree with is the light bulbs. I have aStreet
Fighter pin out on location that would go through 10 lamps every month.
Finaly a checked the transformer and it was at 100 volt setting
rejumpered it and it hasnt lost 1 light in 2 months. Ted
 
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Kirb hit the nail right on the head with this one.

It is this that causes many of the resets. Williams, in all their wisdom,
reduced this voltage coming out of the transformer to the bare minimum in
order to reduce heat from the LM323K. The problem is - in many cases this
voltage, once rectified and filtered, can easily dip below the dropout
voltage of the LM323K. Once that happens, the 5 volt line dips. The 5 volt
dip is detected by the MC34064 and a reset is caused.

This is often aggravated by older bridge rectifiers that have increased
forward voltage drop and by older filter capacitors that have lost
capacitance.

The best way to fix this is to raise the voltage coming out of the
transformer so that these dips don't occur. Only way to do this is to change
the primary connections on the transformer as mentioned earlier in thread.
The resultant problem from this is increased heat from the LM323K.

Another way around this is to use a voltage regulator that has a lower
dropout voltage. hmm... and one more efficient so there's less heat from
the bridge rectifier. Now, I wonder who has one of these in the works...
;)

-- Ed





"kirb" <kirbseepe@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1122898856.671887.30940@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> >I think I'd go there first, an autoformer second, then get out the sickel
>>and start hacking away.
>
> I agree. I think I would rather see someone put a +12V DC switcher in
> place of the transformer output than start messing with the +5 section.
> The +5 comes from the 12V ac, so you just make 12V DC at the
> transformer connector and the rectifier at the driver board doesn't do
> too much anymore.
>
> I've seen this hack in a BSD and it worked just fine. Still a major
> hack, though.
>
> Kirb
>