Is this Mylar?

G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I'm pretty sure my WH20 playfield is completely covered in mylar but
wanted to make sure. I'm starting to see stuff like this all over my
playfield, so since I just tore everything off the playfield to shop it
I figured now would be the time to take off the mylar, just wanted to
make sure I'm not pulling up anything I'm not supposed to. It seems to
cover the entire playfield, but I can defiantly tell where it starts
and stops. I'm going to use the freezing method, just wanted some
clarification from the experts before I started.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

So someone must have full mylared the entire playfeild because the
inlanes have mylar on them all the way down to wet will on the raft and
all the way up to the pop bumpers and every where in between.

Hopefully I don't pull up too much paint in the process.
 

BLACKTIGER

Distinguished
Jul 15, 2005
183
0
18,680
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Freeze is the way to go. Do a google search as suggested. I did a
fairly through write up a few weeks back up on my Grand Lizard, Judge
Dredd and Black Knight. Good luck
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

BlackTiger wrote:
> Freeze is the way to go. Do a google search as suggested. I did a
> fairly through write up a few weeks back up on my Grand Lizard, Judge
> Dredd and Black Knight. Good luck

I removed my Wh20 upf mylar just yesterday using heat and it worked
perfectly.

But I agree with you that the OP should probably use freeze - it seems
to me like non-factory mylar has tougher adhesive (or just my
imagination?). Plus heat would probably take a *long* time on the full
pf.

That Wh20 will look so much better after removing that mylar and a good
cleaning.

-- Jim (C*V, F*H, WH2@)
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

heat is not much slower on a full PF mylar vs the freeze method - I've
done it both ways, they are roughly the same. The glue removal takes
longer on the freeze method though since ALL of the glue is still
there. Some mylars don't respond well to one method and need the other
(or the goo gone method via injection). I had zero luck with freeze on
early SS machines but heat worked well.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

> might help if I post the pics of what im talking about
>
> http://www.reptilescanada.com/gallery/data/500/Mylar.JPG
>
> http://www.reptilescanada.com/gallery/data/500/Mylar2.JPG

Yep.

The first pic of the lower pf is mylar someone put on there afterwards. The
second pic of the upper pf is factory. IIRC, Whitewater only had mylar in
two places, the upper pf from the flipper to the ramp entrances and around
the bumpers of the lower pf. There might be some small mylar circles at the
ball drop areas in the inlanes.

--
Mike S.
Kalamazoo, MI

Gameroom: http://tinyurl.com/4hfev
W C S Owner's List: http://tinyurl.com/39cjo
M B Scoop Repair: http://tinyurl.com/9lfu
--------------------------------------------
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

> So someone must have full mylared the entire playfeild because the
> inlanes have mylar on them all the way down to wet will on the raft and
> all the way up to the pop bumpers and every where in between.
>
> Hopefully I don't pull up too much paint in the process.

Google rgp for the two most popular methods, hairdryer and freeze spray.
Follow up with Goo-Gone to remove the residual adhesive.

--
Mike S.
Kalamazoo, MI

Gameroom: http://tinyurl.com/4hfev
W C S Owner's List: http://tinyurl.com/39cjo
M B Scoop Repair: http://tinyurl.com/9lfu
--------------------------------------------
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Well I just finished the upper and lower Field and it really does give
the machine a breath of new life, it looks amazing. I did end up going
with the Freeze method, upper Field took about 10 mins, the lower took
allot longer, the upper one both pieces of mylar came off in one piece
no problem, the lower one was a complete mess, some areas had double
mylar where there were 2 pieces stacked on top of each other, I had a
little pit of paint that came off in some areas, nothing serious, most
around the inserts and a little bit in one of the out lanes, took me a
can and a half of 10 oz Freeze spray cans to do the whole thing. Then
getting the glue off was tough too, but not horrible, spread it one,
let it sit, then start wiping. I used shop towels and goo gone to take
off the glue, it wasn't too hard but still took quite a while, or there
any other methods?

Thanks for all the info, I'll have to post some before and after pics,
need to do some touch up and fix the divot on the upper PF, lower one
I'm contemplating buying a insert decal set from Classic Arcades as all
the paint that came off was around the inserts and that spot by the
mine kickout.

Thanks again

Adam
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Be aware that if you use the insert decals from Classic Arcades you
will have to put mylar over the top of them otherwise the ink will rub
off them the first time you clean the playfield. Either that or get it
clearcoated after you put them on.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Wasn't aware of that fact, really don't want to put mylar back over the
inserts considering I just took all this time to take the mylar off. I
won't be clear coating the PFeild either as I don't really want to go
down that road just yet. Don't have too much of a problem pulling
everything off the top of the PFeild, but not sure I'd be able to get
everything off the bottom and back again properly.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

We've made our own inserts and put mylar over them (one time on a
TOTAN, pulled up the A lens with the mylar!) If you cut the exact
section you need over the lens, you can't see it, and it protects it
very well. Good luck!