Couple of Wh20 Questions....

G

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1st- I need to touchup a few small areas on the head. Does anyone know
what color blue would work best here? They are all dime sized or
smaller, so if I can find something I dont need to spray on it would be
better....

2nd- I have played another Wh20 besides mine only a few times, but I
dont remember how this felt.....How tight is the plunger spring
supposed to be? I know this is a fairly open question because there are
no set answers, but.... I have two other pins, DE Simpsons and LW3 and
the plunger pulls with ease on the Simpsons (no plunger on LW3), but on
my Wh20 it seems as though there is quite a bit of resistance when I am
pulling the plunger back. My original thought was that this was so it
could make it up the right ramp, but this one seems really tight. If I
really pulled this thing all the way back, I bet I could try to hit the
backbox with the galss off. (Not that I ever would). Any input would be
appreciated.....


-Tim
 
G

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plunger spring - someone may have replaced the spring in there with a
high tension one, but if the ball has to go up a slope to the 2nd
level, it probably should be a stronger one. Since DE simpsons does
not have a 2nd level to launch to, it's probably ok.
 
G

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Tim N. wrote:
>
> 2nd- I have played another Wh20 besides mine only a few times, but I
> dont remember how this felt.....How tight is the plunger spring
> supposed to be? I know this is a fairly open question because there are
> no set answers, but.... I have two other pins, DE Simpsons and LW3 and
> the plunger pulls with ease on the Simpsons (no plunger on LW3), but on
> my Wh20 it seems as though there is quite a bit of resistance when I am
> pulling the plunger back. My original thought was that this was so it
> could make it up the right ramp, but this one seems really tight. If I
> really pulled this thing all the way back, I bet I could try to hit the
> backbox with the galss off. (Not that I ever would). Any input would be
> appreciated.....
>
>
> -Tim

I've bought new plunger springs from a couple of distributors and they
all are stiff. Maybe they will "break in" and soften up over time. On
my wH2o, I like a soft spring, so I took an original one out of another
game and put the new spring in a game that doesn't have a plunger skill
shot.

Dave
 
G

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pinballholic@yahoo.com wrote:
> I've bought new plunger springs from a couple of distributors and they
> all are stiff. Maybe they will "break in" and soften up over time. On
> my wH2o, I like a soft spring, so I took an original one out of another
> game and put the new spring in a game that doesn't have a plunger skill
> shot.
>
> Dave

Be careful not to go too soft. My shooter springs are worn out and
sometimes it takes 3-4 plunges before we successfully make it up the
shooter wireform. And it's no longer a skill shot b/c the ball nearly
always drops gently into the lane and down to the upper flipper for an
easy shot to Insanity Falls ramp. The risk of going down Spine Chiller
is almost zero.

I need a new shooter spring.

-- Jim (F*H, C*V, WH2@)
 
G

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Actually, there is a set answer (at least from the factory's
stand-point). There are around a half-dozen different ball shooter
springs used on Bally/Williams WPC-era games. Whitewater takes a
10-148-1 (silver) spring (medium-high tension). The highest tension is
10-148-2 (red).

Some vendors just sell generic "ball shooter springs" without mapping
that to a Williams part number.

Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic
 
G

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Ray Johnson - Action Pinball wrote:
> The 10-148-2 "stiff" springs are very common. So not surprising to find them
> incorrectly installed in many games. Very few sources have the standard
> type- they're not as common. We do have a few still in stock (standard
> type).
>
> Ray J.
> --
> Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC
> Salt Lake City, Utah USA
> Web: www.actionpinball.com
>
> We're serious about pinball. Anything else is just for fun!
>
>
>
Thanks for that spring info, Ray. That was an item I assumed was all
the same. I'll go check my manuals and see which ones I have the reds
in that are wrong (I'm sure over half of them), and get the corrrect
ones.

Dave
 
G

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"Tim N." wrote:
> 1st- I need to touchup a few small areas on the head. Does anyone know
> what color blue would work best here? They are all dime sized or
> smaller, so if I can find something I dont need to spray on it would be
> better....

Best match I've found is Krylon aerosol spray can- "True Blue". It's not
dead-on, but close. You could spray some into a cup and dab on with a paint
brush. I've tried some of the advertised "matched touch up paints" from
some parts dealers and none have even been close- a lot of the "match" of
the color/shade depends on the amount of UV fading present on your game, or
the game that the guy used to come up with the "match"..... A for effort I
guess...

> 2nd- I have played another Wh20 besides mine only a few times, but I
> dont remember how this felt.....How tight is the plunger spring
> supposed to be?

The correct spring for this game is standard strength 10-148-4. You
probably have a 10-148-2 (strong) spring in there- like BK2K would use-
something like that. That's too much. The standard is enough to get the
ball to go all the way up and around and down the ramp on a full plunged
shot. The idea in this game is to plunge just enough to drop the ball off
the end of the ramp, and have it roll back/down to the upper flipper for the
skill shot to the large ramp. Having too strong a spring in this game makes
that extremely difficult.

We have the 10-148-4 springs in stock- see: www.actionpinball.com for more
info.

Ray J.
--
Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC
Salt Lake City, Utah USA
Web: www.actionpinball.com

We're serious about pinball. Anything else is just for fun!
 
G

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Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

The 10-148-2 "stiff" springs are very common. So not surprising to find them
incorrectly installed in many games. Very few sources have the standard
type- they're not as common. We do have a few still in stock (standard
type).

Ray J.
--
Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC
Salt Lake City, Utah USA
Web: www.actionpinball.com

We're serious about pinball. Anything else is just for fun!



<pinballholic@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1123252876.989850.94070@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> Tim N. wrote:
> >
> > 2nd- I have played another Wh20 besides mine only a few times, but I
> > dont remember how this felt.....How tight is the plunger spring
> > supposed to be? I know this is a fairly open question because there are
> > no set answers, but.... I have two other pins, DE Simpsons and LW3 and
> > the plunger pulls with ease on the Simpsons (no plunger on LW3), but on
> > my Wh20 it seems as though there is quite a bit of resistance when I am
> > pulling the plunger back. My original thought was that this was so it
> > could make it up the right ramp, but this one seems really tight. If I
> > really pulled this thing all the way back, I bet I could try to hit the
> > backbox with the galss off. (Not that I ever would). Any input would be
> > appreciated.....
> >
> >
> > -Tim
>
> I've bought new plunger springs from a couple of distributors and they
> all are stiff. Maybe they will "break in" and soften up over time. On
> my wH2o, I like a soft spring, so I took an original one out of another
> game and put the new spring in a game that doesn't have a plunger skill
> shot.
>
> Dave
>
 
G

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Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Lubrication on the plunger rod or in the plunger nylon sleeve can cause dirt
to accumulate very quickly (within a few hours use) and make the plunger
hang up a bit in the nylon sleeve in the shooter housing- this can cause the
plunger to lose momentum and appear as though the spring(s) is weak. I
can't tell you how many of these I've had to "fix" or replace because
someone thought WD-40 was the answer.

You should be able to pull the plunger on your game, release, and hear it
rattle back and forth a few times before coming to rest. If it just makes a
"thunk" when you release it, then the plunger is gummed up or sleeve is worn
out or outer spring may be mashed.

You can get a complete plunger rebuild kit through our site that includes a
new smooth rod w/knob, both inner and outer springs (standard strength
inner- high strength available upon request), nylon plunger sleeve, spring
retaining e-clip, and new rubber tip. All for less than $10....

Highly recommended!

Ray J.
--
Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC
Salt Lake City, Utah USA
Web: www.actionpinball.com

We're serious about pinball. Anything else is just for fun!



"Stats" <jfarber@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1123255536.819706.21710@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>
> pinballholic@yahoo.com wrote:
> > I've bought new plunger springs from a couple of distributors and they
> > all are stiff. Maybe they will "break in" and soften up over time. On
> > my wH2o, I like a soft spring, so I took an original one out of another
> > game and put the new spring in a game that doesn't have a plunger skill
> > shot.
> >
> > Dave
>
> Be careful not to go too soft. My shooter springs are worn out and
> sometimes it takes 3-4 plunges before we successfully make it up the
> shooter wireform. And it's no longer a skill shot b/c the ball nearly
> always drops gently into the lane and down to the upper flipper for an
> easy shot to Insanity Falls ramp. The risk of going down Spine Chiller
> is almost zero.
>
> I need a new shooter spring.
>
> -- Jim (F*H, C*V, WH2@)
>
 
G

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Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Thanks for all the info.....It sounds like I will be picking up some
Krylon True Blue and will be placing an order with actionpinball. I
will gaurantee that I have the strongest spring in my Wh20, this puppy
really kicks, and it takes some serious effort to pull it back.....
 
G

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Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I remember some old pinballs with weak springs in them, they had the
spiked plunger knob to keep you from slam loading the ball. I just
thought that it wasn't fair to take away your ability to load the ball.
I think I remember kicking them to get it going.
 

Adi

Distinguished
Apr 5, 2004
308
0
18,780
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Your problem is the plunger spring. They make them in the varying degrees of
tension. In reality it is just a thinker wire, offering more resistance.
They classify them as (and color them the same way):

- red spring (the strongest) -.042" thickness of the wire, that's what you
probably have now. They used them on GNR (Rose shooter) etc, and it really
does have a lot of tension, I mean you need to friggin' pull and do a
workout on that thing
- blue, .038" thickness, a notch below strength of the red one, still very
strong,
- green spring -
- silver, .035" - Med-high tension (Universal). This is the most common one,
that's probably what you should get, look in your manual what's a factory
recommendation
- green, .033" - Med. tension, sorta lightish on the touch, should be used
when the scoop or close to the ball through or a skill shot, e.g Twilight
Zone etc...
- white, .028" - Med-low Tension. This is the lightest of all, I have no
idea what machine uses these. When you pull the rod all the way out, the
ball can barely make it up the playfield, if ever

I hope that helps.

Adi
www.txpinball.com




"Tim N." <nobliti@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1123250447.098844.325280@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> 1st- I need to touchup a few small areas on the head. Does anyone know
> what color blue would work best here? They are all dime sized or
> smaller, so if I can find something I dont need to spray on it would be
> better....
>
> 2nd- I have played another Wh20 besides mine only a few times, but I
> dont remember how this felt.....How tight is the plunger spring
> supposed to be? I know this is a fairly open question because there are
> no set answers, but.... I have two other pins, DE Simpsons and LW3 and
> the plunger pulls with ease on the Simpsons (no plunger on LW3), but on
> my Wh20 it seems as though there is quite a bit of resistance when I am
> pulling the plunger back. My original thought was that this was so it
> could make it up the right ramp, but this one seems really tight. If I
> really pulled this thing all the way back, I bet I could try to hit the
> backbox with the galss off. (Not that I ever would). Any input would be
> appreciated.....
>
>
> -Tim
>