Cirqus Voltaire is driving me nuts!...Help please, Long!

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Please help I'm getting frustrated.

My CV is acting very strange. The problem originally occurred last
year, then I had to put the game in storage because I was moving and
now I finally got it set up again.

This is what happened when the problem first came up.

I was in the middle of a game and everything was going well, and during
Highwire Multiball one ball drained down the right outlane and all of a
sudden the game went into a ball search mode and the display read the
following.


Testing Ringmaster


Motor Drive:
Position Switches:
Direction Drive
Coin Door Open


After trying to find the problem I noticed that the 2803 IC and the
R127 resistor got fried so I sent the CPU Board down to Clive at the
Coin-Op Cauldron for his services. By the way he's great to do business
with, mighty quick turnaround.

Now I installed the repaired board, turned on the game, seemed to boot
up fine, had a couple switch errors, and when I closed the coin door
the DMD went blank for a few seconds then the following message
appeared on the display.

Check Fuses F106 & F101

Well I checked them and they're fine. If I re-boot the game it will do
the normal startup then give me the same Check Fuses error.

Now I can't even go in to test mode, I'm just kind of locked up in this
mode. Also, when I hit the test switch on the coin door after a
re-boot, I got the message

Check Fuse F101 and F109, J127 and Opto 12V Supply.

I'm no whiz at repairs can handle minor issues, but this one is way
over my head.

Anyone who can help I'd be really appreciative.

BTW, I live in Havertown, PA Delaware County

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

you may want to replace the fuses anyway. They can look fine and test
for continuity and still be bad. that would be the first thing i'd
try. Sounds like you have a lot of loose connections. try reseating
all the connectors in the backbox and around the display board.
Something may have gotten loose in storage or maybe a mouse did some
chew action in there

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Checked and re-checked all connections, they're fine and the game was
stored at my mothers climate controlled house, so I doubt there were
any mice or moisture issues.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Do you have another game you can swap power supply boards with? If you
put a known good board in that will narrow it down greatly. Most of the
time it is a power supply board problem but there is a chance it is on
the CPU board. I've seen very strange behavior when an LM339 chip goes
bad on the CPU.

Mike

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Figure out what bridge rectifier is with fuses F106 & F101, and or check
your voltage test points and see what is missing. If fuses are good, you
most likely lost a bridge recitifer. LTG

"Greg P" <Gregory.Peetros@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:1123367205.201370.177340@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> Please help I'm getting frustrated.
>
> My CV is acting very strange. The problem originally occurred last
> year, then I had to put the game in storage because I was moving and
> now I finally got it set up again.
>
> This is what happened when the problem first came up.
>
> I was in the middle of a game and everything was going well, and during
> Highwire Multiball one ball drained down the right outlane and all of a
> sudden the game went into a ball search mode and the display read the
> following.
>
>
> Testing Ringmaster
>
>
> Motor Drive:
> Position Switches:
> Direction Drive
> Coin Door Open
>
>
> After trying to find the problem I noticed that the 2803 IC and the
> R127 resistor got fried so I sent the CPU Board down to Clive at the
> Coin-Op Cauldron for his services. By the way he's great to do business
> with, mighty quick turnaround.
>
> Now I installed the repaired board, turned on the game, seemed to boot
> up fine, had a couple switch errors, and when I closed the coin door
> the DMD went blank for a few seconds then the following message
> appeared on the display.
>
> Check Fuses F106 & F101
>
> Well I checked them and they're fine. If I re-boot the game it will do
> the normal startup then give me the same Check Fuses error.
>
> Now I can't even go in to test mode, I'm just kind of locked up in this
> mode. Also, when I hit the test switch on the coin door after a
> re-boot, I got the message
>
> Check Fuse F101 and F109, J127 and Opto 12V Supply.
>
> I'm no whiz at repairs can handle minor issues, but this one is way
> over my head.
>
> Anyone who can help I'd be really appreciative.
>
> BTW, I live in Havertown, PA Delaware County
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

You should always check Clay's guides...
"If fuse F114 (or F106 on WPC-95) is indeed blown, this usually indicates a
shorted BR1 bridge (D11-D14 on WPC-95), or cap C6 or C7, or the LM7812
voltage regulator Q2. If this fuse is OK, check fuse F115 (or F101 on
WPC-95). If this is blown, typically it is caused by a shorted U20 chip (and
possibly U14, or U23 on WPC-95) on the CPU board."

Start there, if that doesn't work, read further.

GRY

"Lloyd Olson" <ltg@ssbilliards.com> wrote in message
news:i6WdnZbC-O9Dp2jfRVnyhw@skypoint.com...
> Figure out what bridge rectifier is with fuses F106 & F101, and or check
> your voltage test points and see what is missing. If fuses are good, you
> most likely lost a bridge recitifer. LTG
>
> "Greg P" <Gregory.Peetros@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:1123367205.201370.177340@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>> Please help I'm getting frustrated.
>>
>> My CV is acting very strange. The problem originally occurred last
>> year, then I had to put the game in storage because I was moving and
>> now I finally got it set up again.
>>
>> This is what happened when the problem first came up.
>>
>> I was in the middle of a game and everything was going well, and during
>> Highwire Multiball one ball drained down the right outlane and all of a
>> sudden the game went into a ball search mode and the display read the
>> following.
>>
>>
>> Testing Ringmaster
>>
>>
>> Motor Drive:
>> Position Switches:
>> Direction Drive
>> Coin Door Open
>>
>>
>> After trying to find the problem I noticed that the 2803 IC and the
>> R127 resistor got fried so I sent the CPU Board down to Clive at the
>> Coin-Op Cauldron for his services. By the way he's great to do business
>> with, mighty quick turnaround.
>>
>> Now I installed the repaired board, turned on the game, seemed to boot
>> up fine, had a couple switch errors, and when I closed the coin door
>> the DMD went blank for a few seconds then the following message
>> appeared on the display.
>>
>> Check Fuses F106 & F101
>>
>> Well I checked them and they're fine. If I re-boot the game it will do
>> the normal startup then give me the same Check Fuses error.
>>
>> Now I can't even go in to test mode, I'm just kind of locked up in this
>> mode. Also, when I hit the test switch on the coin door after a
>> re-boot, I got the message
>>
>> Check Fuse F101 and F109, J127 and Opto 12V Supply.
>>
>> I'm no whiz at repairs can handle minor issues, but this one is way
>> over my head.
>>
>> Anyone who can help I'd be really appreciative.
>>
>> BTW, I live in Havertown, PA Delaware County
>>
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Mike,

I just got the CPU back from Clive at Coin-Op Cauldron so I doubt it's
that, but hopefully it didn't get fried again. I'll have to swap the
Power Supply Board from one of my other games, but I'd be afraid it may
cook the good one as well.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

It's very unlikely you'll cook a second board. The capacitors and
bridge rectifiers have a life span of 5 to 10 years. They just go when
it is their time. Make sure when you reconnect the ribbon cables that
you don't bend any pins or misalign those connectors. That is also a
common cause of problems.

Mike

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Somewhere on your playfield, you have coil
voltage shorted to your switch matrix.

You have also most likely, damaged the
CPU board again....

You will need to find and repair the coil short
problem before you do even further damage
to your game.

--
Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
******************






"Greg P" <Gregory.Peetros@verizon.net> wrote in message news:1123367205.201370.177340@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> Please help I'm getting frustrated.
>
> My CV is acting very strange. The problem originally occurred last
> year, then I had to put the game in storage because I was moving and
> now I finally got it set up again.
>
> This is what happened when the problem first came up.
>
> I was in the middle of a game and everything was going well, and during
> Highwire Multiball one ball drained down the right outlane and all of a
> sudden the game went into a ball search mode and the display read the
> following.
>
>
> Testing Ringmaster
>
>
> Motor Drive:
> Position Switches:
> Direction Drive
> Coin Door Open
>
>
> After trying to find the problem I noticed that the 2803 IC and the
> R127 resistor got fried so I sent the CPU Board down to Clive at the
> Coin-Op Cauldron for his services. By the way he's great to do business
> with, mighty quick turnaround.
>
> Now I installed the repaired board, turned on the game, seemed to boot
> up fine, had a couple switch errors, and when I closed the coin door
> the DMD went blank for a few seconds then the following message
> appeared on the display.
>
> Check Fuses F106 & F101
>
> Well I checked them and they're fine. If I re-boot the game it will do
> the normal startup then give me the same Check Fuses error.
>
> Now I can't even go in to test mode, I'm just kind of locked up in this
> mode. Also, when I hit the test switch on the coin door after a
> re-boot, I got the message
>
> Check Fuse F101 and F109, J127 and Opto 12V Supply.
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

The LEDs on your power driver are the first thing to look at. Are all
of power LEDS lit showing all power supplys are working? If not,
you'll get fuse messages, which may or may not be the remedy, but you
at least know the general area of the problem.

 

[martin]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Fred's diagnosis, unfortunately, sounds good. If you have a coil
shorted to the switch matrix your machine will continue to pop boards.
When the coin door is open the 70V coil circuits are disconnected. When
you closed the door, you visited 70V upon your switch matrix. This
voltage drives too much current through the 2803, which flows to ground
through R127.

First, you have to diagnose the playfield problem. That means a
multimeter on the WPC switch matrix connector to find which circuit has
the 70V leak, then tracing that circuit on the playfield to find the
short. You have to prove that you have fixed the short, or it will come
back. You are looking for something like a wire that is touching a coil
lead, or a coil lead that is touching a switch.

You will likely also need to send your wpc board for repair again.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

How can I find the coil short if I can't even get in the test menu?
Like I've said, I'm way over my head on this one. Any RGP'ers live
near Havertown can help a fellow out?

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I can't win, thanks guys

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Just sell it to me greg. I'll turn it into a project and work on it.
I have a cv already. But my dad could use one

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Nwojedi

The kicker here is this is an HUO game too, I can't even blame it on
being abused on a route somewhere.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

you might want to check the long cords inside the back. Mine was HUO
as well. but I noticed the cords were snagging the speaker screws
everytime you pulled the playfield out. Would pull out certain coil
wires and unplug some of the magnets. One of my wires broke or had the
insulation pulled off. but over time without notice it would have.
maybe same thing happened and created an arch. worth checking out.
There is a LOT of slack in the wires.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

You wouldn't be looking for a coil short in test with power on, that is how
you make things worse. Your game's problems can be figured out, it will just
take a bit. If you move to Hopkins, bring it over and I'll learn you. LTG

"Greg P" <Gregory.Peetros@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:1123433321.421204.80800@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> How can I find the coil short if I can't even get in the test menu?
> Like I've said, I'm way over my head on this one. Any RGP'ers live
> near Havertown can help a fellow out?
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I don't think you're over your head just yet...

With the game off, remove the balls and raise
the playfield. Attempt a visual inspection as
others have suggested. You mentioned the
problem occured when the ball exited an
outlane. I would start in that area first, and
just work all the way across. Examine every
coil and connections to them.

--
Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
******************






"Greg P" <Gregory.Peetros@verizon.net> wrote in message news:1123433321.421204.80800@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> How can I find the coil short if I can't even get in the test menu?
> Like I've said, I'm way over my head on this one. Any RGP'ers live
> near Havertown can help a fellow out?
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Thanks for the tips guys, when I get home and have a few moments I'll
do the visual inspection and report back

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

You may also want to check the connections to EVERY solenoid under the
playfield. CV uses later-style solenoid coils that use push-on terminals;
I've seen a few cases where one of these works its way off the coil lug. If
the wire happens to contact any wire connected to an under-playfield switch
you can kiss you switch matrix goodbye when you close the coin door.

Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic

In article <1123435889.447937.51680@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, "Nwojedi"
<nwojedi@hotmail.com> wrote:
>you might want to check the long cords inside the back. Mine was HUO
>as well. but I noticed the cords were snagging the speaker screws
>everytime you pulled the playfield out. Would pull out certain coil
>wires and unplug some of the magnets. One of my wires broke or had the
>insulation pulled off. but over time without notice it would have.
>maybe same thing happened and created an arch. worth checking out.
>There is a LOT of slack in the wires.
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Well, I finally found the shorted coil it was the right slingshot the
two coil wires were somehow touching each other, the wire kind of
worked its way out of the slot on the plastic. Go figure.

So, I replaced the 2803 on the CPU board and that took care of the
blown fuses message and the game will atleast boot up but I now get the
following message.

Opto trough bad check connectors, wires and 12 volt supply.

Then when I push the start button I get the following.

Testing Ringmaster
Motor Drive:
Position Switches:
Direction Drive
Coin Door Open

Since you guys were so good at helping me with the coil short,
hopefully you can lead me in the right direction on these issues.

I'm trying to learn as I go along. I appreciate everyone's help

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Otto,

The coin door is closed, no credit dot, and I can't get in to test mode
to check the ringmaster. Oh and the coil that pops the ball from the
trough to the shooter lane is constantly firing.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Otto,

Coin door is closed, no credit dot, and the coil that pops the ball
from the trough to the shooter lane is firing.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I'd suggest that you probably fried one or all of the LM339 chips that
control the switch matrix when you shorted the high voltage from the
solenoid circuit to the low voltage circuit that runs the switches. I
did a similar thing to my TOM when soldering a switch with a faulty
soldering iron...

There are two LM 339's that run the rows on your CPU board at U 18 and
U 19, plus on that game Id think there is an underplayfield optic board
that has a whole bunch of LM 339's on it.. Those chips are cheap, and
I'd start by replacing them all with sockets, and go from there.

If you have another game with a good CPU and optic board.. you can swap
them in after fixing the coil voltage short to verify that the problem
disappears afterwards. You may also have to activate the switches to
let the game "know" they are working properly afterwards too. Dont
remember if I had to on mine or not, but I remember reading something
to that effect on the Marvin site.

Let us know how you make out.
Vinny

 

[martin]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

If you can't get into test mode, your switch matrix is still bad. Start
by disconnecting the connectors on the bottom edge of the CPU that go
to the playfield, and then see if you can get into test mode. The test
buttons are on the cabinet connector. This eliminates the possibility
of shorted connection under the playfield.

If you still can't hit test mode, you have a problem on the WPC board.
The 339s ought to be OK, but you replaced the 2803 so maybe they are
not. The diodes that protect the 339 should also be damaged, so you
could cehck them first. If any are bad, then you have to replace the
diode and the associated 339.