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More info?)
I wouldn't clearcoat without touching up, why lock in worn to the wood
areas? From the description this pf would require fairly extensive
retouching in the worn areas and the cracks are likely to have some flaking
off in prep and become worn areas themselves. Go the whole way, or just
clean and wax.
GRY
"David Gersic" <usenet_spam_trap@zaccaria-pinball.com> wrote in message
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dg35e$khv$1@usenet.cso.niu.edu...
> On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 07:49:02 -0400, Robert Myers <rsmyers@rogers.com>
> wrote:
>> How do you do this prepping? Is there a step by step listing somewhere
>> for the way Arizona Bruce does it before bringing it to be clear coated?
>
> The prep is the same, essentially, for any playfield. The surface of the
> current paint is going to have to be cleaned to remove any grease, wax,
> or
> other substance that may be there. Then it is "scuffed" with something
> like
> a Scotchbrite "red" pad to nice dull surface. This gives the clear
> extra surface area to "bite" or attach to.
>
>> I have a couple particular problems with my old Gottlieb 1971
>> 'Drop-A-Card' regarding possible prepping;
>>
>> 1. Some paint is worn, and a little wood *just* starting to show
>> through. Should I clear coat it without retouching anyway?
>
> Depends on what you're trying to achieve. If you're going through all of
> the work of a complete teardown, clearcoat, and rebuild, then you may want
> to restore / touchup the artwork as well. Or maybe not. Once you spray the
> clear on it, whatever's there is locked in. You won't be making a second
> choice here.
>
>
>> At least it
>> won't get worse, and what IS there, and lots is, would be (and stay)
>> shiny and smooth. I hate retouching. It never looks right to me. Or
>> maybe touch ups DO look OK after sanding and then under clear coat, but
>> I've never done that. Someone let me know, if possible please.
>
> Done right, and with some skill, you won't be able to see the retouched
> areas. That may take quite a lot of skill, and may require a lot more work
> than *just* retouching the damaged area. If you look at some of Bill
> Davis'
> work, for example, he will sometimes paint an entire coloured area, rather
> than just try to retouch a small spot in the middle of it, so the the
> colour matches all the way to the black lines surrounding it.
>
> Look at some of the examples Clay shows on his site, and in the ToP tapes
> as well. He's pretty good at colour matching, and makes it look easy, but
> the results speak for themselves. If you can't see the retouch, and can't
> tell where it was done, you've got it right. The clear overcoat isn't
> going
> to "hide" a bad retouch, it will only enhance its visibility.
>
>
>> 2. Some of the grain is raised slightly thus cracking the paint along
>> those grain lines. How can I clean that area, say, with Magic Eraser?
>
> The ME will clean the gunk out of the crack. You may need to retouch the
> crack to get it to be the same colour as the surrounding area. The clear
> will level this out.
>
>
>> And how can I sand it (?), if sanding is required for prepping. (I mean,
>> without ripping the raised paint that has come up slightly with the
>> grain going longitudinally in certain areas along the PF).
>
> If it's loose, it's not going to survive the scuffing process, and would
> impede good overall adhesion of the clearcoat anyway. It'll need to come
> off and be touched up before clearcoating. You might be able to reattach
> it
> with CA if you're careful.
>
>
>> Come to think of it what do you use to get rid of that Magic Eraser
>> powder that's left over?
>
> Novus #2, then Wax-and-Grease-Remover or Naphtha.
>
>
> --
> | David Gersic
http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com
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