Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question

Preparing an EM's playfield for suto clear coat.

Tags:
  • Video Games
Last response: in Video Games
Share
Anonymous
August 11, 2005 11:49:02 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

How do you do this prepping? Is there a step by step listing somewhere
for the way Arizona Bruce does it before bringing it to be clear coated?

I have a couple particular problems with my old Gottlieb 1971
'Drop-A-Card' regarding possible prepping;

1. Some paint is worn, and a little wood *just* starting to show
through. Should I clear coat it without retouching anyway? At least it
won't get worse, and what IS there, and lots is, would be (and stay)
shiny and smooth. I hate retouching. It never looks right to me. Or
maybe touch ups DO look OK after sanding and then under clear coat, but
I've never done that. Someone let me know, if possible please.
2. Some of the grain is raised slightly thus cracking the paint along
those grain lines. How can I clean that area, say, with Magic Eraser?
And how can I sand it (?), if sanding is required for prepping. (I mean,
without ripping the raised paint that has come up slightly with the
grain going longitudinally in certain areas along the PF). Is it
hopeless, in terms of proper automotive clear coat preparation, without
doing more damage than is already there?

Come to think of it what do you use to get rid of that Magic Eraser
powder that's left over? I can send pictures to interested helpers of
the central area of the PF with this problem --- some of the PF is quite
OK, BTW.

Any advice from the pro's?
Thanks,
--- Rob

More about : preparing playfield suto clear coat

Anonymous
August 11, 2005 9:50:38 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 07:49:02 -0400, Robert Myers <rsmyers@rogers.com> wrote:
> How do you do this prepping? Is there a step by step listing somewhere
> for the way Arizona Bruce does it before bringing it to be clear coated?

The prep is the same, essentially, for any playfield. The surface of the
current paint is going to have to be cleaned to remove any grease, wax, or
other substance that may be there. Then it is "scuffed" with something like
a Scotchbrite "red" pad to nice dull surface. This gives the clear
extra surface area to "bite" or attach to.

> I have a couple particular problems with my old Gottlieb 1971
> 'Drop-A-Card' regarding possible prepping;
>
> 1. Some paint is worn, and a little wood *just* starting to show
> through. Should I clear coat it without retouching anyway?

Depends on what you're trying to achieve. If you're going through all of
the work of a complete teardown, clearcoat, and rebuild, then you may want
to restore / touchup the artwork as well. Or maybe not. Once you spray the
clear on it, whatever's there is locked in. You won't be making a second
choice here.


> At least it
> won't get worse, and what IS there, and lots is, would be (and stay)
> shiny and smooth. I hate retouching. It never looks right to me. Or
> maybe touch ups DO look OK after sanding and then under clear coat, but
> I've never done that. Someone let me know, if possible please.

Done right, and with some skill, you won't be able to see the retouched
areas. That may take quite a lot of skill, and may require a lot more work
than *just* retouching the damaged area. If you look at some of Bill Davis'
work, for example, he will sometimes paint an entire coloured area, rather
than just try to retouch a small spot in the middle of it, so the the
colour matches all the way to the black lines surrounding it.

Look at some of the examples Clay shows on his site, and in the ToP tapes
as well. He's pretty good at colour matching, and makes it look easy, but
the results speak for themselves. If you can't see the retouch, and can't
tell where it was done, you've got it right. The clear overcoat isn't going
to "hide" a bad retouch, it will only enhance its visibility.


> 2. Some of the grain is raised slightly thus cracking the paint along
> those grain lines. How can I clean that area, say, with Magic Eraser?

The ME will clean the gunk out of the crack. You may need to retouch the
crack to get it to be the same colour as the surrounding area. The clear
will level this out.


> And how can I sand it (?), if sanding is required for prepping. (I mean,
> without ripping the raised paint that has come up slightly with the
> grain going longitudinally in certain areas along the PF).

If it's loose, it's not going to survive the scuffing process, and would
impede good overall adhesion of the clearcoat anyway. It'll need to come
off and be touched up before clearcoating. You might be able to reattach it
with CA if you're careful.


> Come to think of it what do you use to get rid of that Magic Eraser
> powder that's left over?

Novus #2, then Wax-and-Grease-Remover or Naphtha.


--
| David Gersic http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com |
| Real Newspaper Headline: Hospitals are Sued by 7 Foot Doctors |
| Email address is a spam trap. Visit the web site for contact info. |
Anonymous
August 11, 2005 9:50:39 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I wouldn't clearcoat without touching up, why lock in worn to the wood
areas? From the description this pf would require fairly extensive
retouching in the worn areas and the cracks are likely to have some flaking
off in prep and become worn areas themselves. Go the whole way, or just
clean and wax.

GRY

"David Gersic" <usenet_spam_trap@zaccaria-pinball.com> wrote in message
news:D dg35e$khv$1@usenet.cso.niu.edu...
> On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 07:49:02 -0400, Robert Myers <rsmyers@rogers.com>
> wrote:
>> How do you do this prepping? Is there a step by step listing somewhere
>> for the way Arizona Bruce does it before bringing it to be clear coated?
>
> The prep is the same, essentially, for any playfield. The surface of the
> current paint is going to have to be cleaned to remove any grease, wax,
> or
> other substance that may be there. Then it is "scuffed" with something
> like
> a Scotchbrite "red" pad to nice dull surface. This gives the clear
> extra surface area to "bite" or attach to.
>
>> I have a couple particular problems with my old Gottlieb 1971
>> 'Drop-A-Card' regarding possible prepping;
>>
>> 1. Some paint is worn, and a little wood *just* starting to show
>> through. Should I clear coat it without retouching anyway?
>
> Depends on what you're trying to achieve. If you're going through all of
> the work of a complete teardown, clearcoat, and rebuild, then you may want
> to restore / touchup the artwork as well. Or maybe not. Once you spray the
> clear on it, whatever's there is locked in. You won't be making a second
> choice here.
>
>
>> At least it
>> won't get worse, and what IS there, and lots is, would be (and stay)
>> shiny and smooth. I hate retouching. It never looks right to me. Or
>> maybe touch ups DO look OK after sanding and then under clear coat, but
>> I've never done that. Someone let me know, if possible please.
>
> Done right, and with some skill, you won't be able to see the retouched
> areas. That may take quite a lot of skill, and may require a lot more work
> than *just* retouching the damaged area. If you look at some of Bill
> Davis'
> work, for example, he will sometimes paint an entire coloured area, rather
> than just try to retouch a small spot in the middle of it, so the the
> colour matches all the way to the black lines surrounding it.
>
> Look at some of the examples Clay shows on his site, and in the ToP tapes
> as well. He's pretty good at colour matching, and makes it look easy, but
> the results speak for themselves. If you can't see the retouch, and can't
> tell where it was done, you've got it right. The clear overcoat isn't
> going
> to "hide" a bad retouch, it will only enhance its visibility.
>
>
>> 2. Some of the grain is raised slightly thus cracking the paint along
>> those grain lines. How can I clean that area, say, with Magic Eraser?
>
> The ME will clean the gunk out of the crack. You may need to retouch the
> crack to get it to be the same colour as the surrounding area. The clear
> will level this out.
>
>
>> And how can I sand it (?), if sanding is required for prepping. (I mean,
>> without ripping the raised paint that has come up slightly with the
>> grain going longitudinally in certain areas along the PF).
>
> If it's loose, it's not going to survive the scuffing process, and would
> impede good overall adhesion of the clearcoat anyway. It'll need to come
> off and be touched up before clearcoating. You might be able to reattach
> it
> with CA if you're careful.
>
>
>> Come to think of it what do you use to get rid of that Magic Eraser
>> powder that's left over?
>
> Novus #2, then Wax-and-Grease-Remover or Naphtha.
>
>
> --
> | David Gersic http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com
> |
> | Real Newspaper Headline: Hospitals are Sued by 7 Foot Doctors
> |
> | Email address is a spam trap. Visit the web site for contact info.
> |
!