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Cleaning PF with raised grain

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Anonymous
August 13, 2005 12:35:03 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

How do you clean a PF with slightly raised grain (and associated cracks
in the paint along those grain lines) without ripping the paint right
off the wood (old 70's EM game)?

Has anyone tried taking out the PF and turning it nearly vertical, and
pouring on copious amounts of 100% isopropyl alcohol and letting it run
off (in the direction of the cracks) down and off the bottom of the PF?

Thanks,
-- Rob

More about : cleaning raised grain

Anonymous
August 13, 2005 12:35:04 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I don't know for sure, but it sounds like a bad idea to have a lot of
moisture getting into the wood.
August 13, 2005 12:35:04 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Magic Eraser and naptha or isopropyl alcohol. Then you'll need to
clearcoat.
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Anonymous
August 13, 2005 1:01:06 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Why would you think this is a good idea?
Anonymous
August 13, 2005 3:29:42 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

If the field is cracked so badly that you're thinking about pouring
alcohol on it and hoping the run off will "clean" it for fear of damage
from touching it, there's no way it will stand up to a steel ball.

I suggest cleaning it as you normally would, and any paint that comes
off in that process wasn't going to hang around much longer anyway.
Then touch it up if you care and go from there.
Anonymous
August 13, 2005 11:12:14 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Which is not to say that Otto is suggesting you caulk the cracks on
your pf! : )

pr



Otto wrote:
> It will pull any moisture with it(dry it out). Another great reason it is
> good for cleaning pcbs.
>
>
> Totally unrelated:
>
> Trick of the trade that was given to me by a custom countertop expert.
>
> Prepping for caulk work around the house in areas such as baths. Clean out
> the old caulk. Wipe it down with liberal amounts of denatured alcohol. This
> will clean the surface but more importantly it will remove any moisture.
> Give it a few minutes to dry. Lay down a new bead of caulk--most people go
> too big here-smaller is better. Then wet you finger with denatured alcohol
> and wipe the bead. The alcohol will keep the caulk from sticking to your
> finger and give you a nice bead of caulk.
>
> The cleaning with the alcohol to remove moisture and soap scum will give the
> caulk a good surface. My old caulk jobs used to last less than a year before
> the caulk would start to seperate. Now they last multiple years-probably
> 3-5.
>
> Otto
>
> CARGPB11
>
> My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding
>
> "Robert Myers" <rsmyers@rogers.com> wrote in message
> news:42FDED63.227C8DCC@rogers.com...
> > Kevin,
> >
> > Actually, 100% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol has no moisture in it ---
> > none.
Anonymous
August 13, 2005 12:53:56 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Kevin,

Actually, 100% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol has no moisture in it ---
none.

--- Rob

kevinlshirk@aol.com wrote:

> I don't know for sure, but it sounds like a bad idea to have a lot of
> moisture getting into the wood.
August 13, 2005 2:07:03 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

It will pull any moisture with it(dry it out). Another great reason it is
good for cleaning pcbs.


Totally unrelated:

Trick of the trade that was given to me by a custom countertop expert.

Prepping for caulk work around the house in areas such as baths. Clean out
the old caulk. Wipe it down with liberal amounts of denatured alcohol. This
will clean the surface but more importantly it will remove any moisture.
Give it a few minutes to dry. Lay down a new bead of caulk--most people go
too big here-smaller is better. Then wet you finger with denatured alcohol
and wipe the bead. The alcohol will keep the caulk from sticking to your
finger and give you a nice bead of caulk.

The cleaning with the alcohol to remove moisture and soap scum will give the
caulk a good surface. My old caulk jobs used to last less than a year before
the caulk would start to seperate. Now they last multiple years-probably
3-5.

Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

"Robert Myers" <rsmyers@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:42FDED63.227C8DCC@rogers.com...
> Kevin,
>
> Actually, 100% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol has no moisture in it ---
> none.
August 13, 2005 3:19:44 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I'm with pr on that one.

And don't put caulk on your printed circuit boards either.

:>)


Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

"pr" <ringmaster1@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1123942334.560986.20670@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> Which is not to say that Otto is suggesting you caulk the cracks on
> your pf! : )
!