Cleaning PF with raised grain

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

How do you clean a PF with slightly raised grain (and associated cracks
in the paint along those grain lines) without ripping the paint right
off the wood (old 70's EM game)?

Has anyone tried taking out the PF and turning it nearly vertical, and
pouring on copious amounts of 100% isopropyl alcohol and letting it run
off (in the direction of the cracks) down and off the bottom of the PF?

Thanks,
-- Rob
8 answers Last reply
More about cleaning raised grain
  1. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    I don't know for sure, but it sounds like a bad idea to have a lot of
    moisture getting into the wood.
  2. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Magic Eraser and naptha or isopropyl alcohol. Then you'll need to
    clearcoat.
  3. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Why would you think this is a good idea?
  4. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    If the field is cracked so badly that you're thinking about pouring
    alcohol on it and hoping the run off will "clean" it for fear of damage
    from touching it, there's no way it will stand up to a steel ball.

    I suggest cleaning it as you normally would, and any paint that comes
    off in that process wasn't going to hang around much longer anyway.
    Then touch it up if you care and go from there.
  5. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Which is not to say that Otto is suggesting you caulk the cracks on
    your pf! : )

    pr


    Otto wrote:
    > It will pull any moisture with it(dry it out). Another great reason it is
    > good for cleaning pcbs.
    >
    >
    > Totally unrelated:
    >
    > Trick of the trade that was given to me by a custom countertop expert.
    >
    > Prepping for caulk work around the house in areas such as baths. Clean out
    > the old caulk. Wipe it down with liberal amounts of denatured alcohol. This
    > will clean the surface but more importantly it will remove any moisture.
    > Give it a few minutes to dry. Lay down a new bead of caulk--most people go
    > too big here-smaller is better. Then wet you finger with denatured alcohol
    > and wipe the bead. The alcohol will keep the caulk from sticking to your
    > finger and give you a nice bead of caulk.
    >
    > The cleaning with the alcohol to remove moisture and soap scum will give the
    > caulk a good surface. My old caulk jobs used to last less than a year before
    > the caulk would start to seperate. Now they last multiple years-probably
    > 3-5.
    >
    > Otto
    >
    > CARGPB11
    >
    > My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding
    >
    > "Robert Myers" <rsmyers@rogers.com> wrote in message
    > news:42FDED63.227C8DCC@rogers.com...
    > > Kevin,
    > >
    > > Actually, 100% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol has no moisture in it ---
    > > none.
  6. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    Kevin,

    Actually, 100% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol has no moisture in it ---
    none.

    --- Rob

    kevinlshirk@aol.com wrote:

    > I don't know for sure, but it sounds like a bad idea to have a lot of
    > moisture getting into the wood.
  7. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    It will pull any moisture with it(dry it out). Another great reason it is
    good for cleaning pcbs.


    Totally unrelated:

    Trick of the trade that was given to me by a custom countertop expert.

    Prepping for caulk work around the house in areas such as baths. Clean out
    the old caulk. Wipe it down with liberal amounts of denatured alcohol. This
    will clean the surface but more importantly it will remove any moisture.
    Give it a few minutes to dry. Lay down a new bead of caulk--most people go
    too big here-smaller is better. Then wet you finger with denatured alcohol
    and wipe the bead. The alcohol will keep the caulk from sticking to your
    finger and give you a nice bead of caulk.

    The cleaning with the alcohol to remove moisture and soap scum will give the
    caulk a good surface. My old caulk jobs used to last less than a year before
    the caulk would start to seperate. Now they last multiple years-probably
    3-5.

    Otto

    CARGPB11

    My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

    "Robert Myers" <rsmyers@rogers.com> wrote in message
    news:42FDED63.227C8DCC@rogers.com...
    > Kevin,
    >
    > Actually, 100% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol has no moisture in it ---
    > none.
  8. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    I'm with pr on that one.

    And don't put caulk on your printed circuit boards either.

    :>)


    Otto

    CARGPB11

    My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

    "pr" <ringmaster1@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
    news:1123942334.560986.20670@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
    > Which is not to say that Otto is suggesting you caulk the cracks on
    > your pf! : )
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