DrWho Newbie Tech Help

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Guest

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Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Hey all,

Just bought my first pinball (DrWho) and need some help. The only
problem with it is that 3 of the 5 optos are out (white buttons do not
work when pressed).

What do I do and how would I go about fixing/replacing? Does this
entail removing the entire mini-playfield???

Thanks,
~Michael
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Hi Michael,

The simple answer is YUP.... Hopefully you can wield a screwdrive adn
do a bit of soldering if necessary...

Removing the mini-playfield really is no big deal, just be methodical
and careful. Took me about 20 mins first time and I can do it in 5
easy now. Once the playfield is removed you then have to remove a
couple more pieces to get to the opto board that contols these optos.
Look for a broken wire, or bad connection. Failing that check the
board for a cold solder joint, etc. If all looks good then you will
probably need to replace the optos for the ones that don't work. The
replacement opto's are available at Radio Shack (google RGP for the
part numbers) and it's a fairly striaghtforward solder job.

Best of luck and remember, the wonderful people of RGP are always out
here willing to help....

Exterminate, exterminate .......

regards
Paul
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

if you pull the mini PF out and you find that the opto mounting is
bent, bay area amusements sells this part to replace it. Or you can
heat it up with a heat gun and remold it around a wood block, but it
will tend to rewarp over time sending the optos out of alignment.

The circuit boards very often have cracked plated through holes which
you need to fix with jumper wires.
 
G

Guest

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Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

The Radio Shack Opto Receiver is the WRONG part. These IrLED's come in
two common package sizes as they are called. And on DW the Transmitter
is the larger
size and the receiver is the smaller size, because it has to provide
clearance for the target post. Radio Shack only sells them in large
sized pairs.

I have the correct part numbers at home, and will post them tonight.
 
G

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Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

One of the pinball parts suppliers sells the complete opto board. I
thinks it runs around $40, which is a lot more than a couple bucks for
the individual optos. I was thinking of buying one so that I could
swap the whole board out, then rebuild my original so it's ready to go
as a spare. I'll have to check when I get home where I saw the board,
as my workplace just started blocking sites that are 'arcade' related.

I'm considering myself lucky that I can still read the newsgroups - on
my breaks and lunches, naturally :D
 
G

Guest

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Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

DrWhoPinball wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> Just bought my first pinball (DrWho) and need some help. The only
> problem with it is that 3 of the 5 optos are out (white buttons do not
> work when pressed).
>
> What do I do and how would I go about fixing/replacing? Does this
> entail removing the entire mini-playfield???
>
> Thanks,
> ~Michael
>

Michael,
You will have to remove the mini-pf to remove the opto board. Doubt if
any are dead. They probably are just loose/out of adjustment and need to
be adjusted/cleaned and resoldered. That board takes a beating.
If you don't have a manual nows the time to get one if you plan on doing
this yourself.

Brian Ray
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Okay the receiver (or photo-transistor) can be found at www.digikey.com

It is part number QSD723 - the smaller package size is known as TO-18
The electrically matching InfraRed LED (Emitter) is part QED523.

**Note this is the manufacturer's specific LED to match this receiver
(and is smaller than the OEM emitter which I believe to be a 5mm LED)

**On the Emitter side
- I don't know electrically speaking how similiar it is to the QED523
- but you CAN use the Radio Shack 5mm Ir LED and it will work, I've
done it
-
- the size constraint only affects the receiver side,
- because the post on the back of the targets comes just over the
receiver.