TZ: tech help needed possible power driver board problems

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

After a thorough cleaning and waxing and partial teardown and
reassembly of pf, game immediately started to reset whenever both
flippers were pressed at same time. I measured the voltage on BR2 and
found it to be only 9v, instead of 12-15v. Replaced BR1 and BR2, added
some of the jumpers as shown in the guide posted at marvin3m. Now,
game does not boot up. DMD does show some activity, but garbled lights
only, which gradually go dark after about 30sec - 1 min, also ticking
sound comes from the speakers, but no other activity. Voltage on BR2
still measures only 9v. I did not replace any of the caps. Any ideas?
4 answers Last reply
More about tech needed power driver board problems
  1. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    It's a low voltage problem, put a reinforcement to the 5V that goes to
    the Fliptronics board, get the 5 volts from the PDB. Disconnect the
    flippers to see if there's no short, maybe that's the reset cause.
  2. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    If it was okay before you started, then you'll have to go over everything
    you did and see what you screwed up. LTG :)

    <bmillarlaw@yahoo.com> wrote in message
    news:1124590853.089365.314630@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
    > After a thorough cleaning and waxing and partial teardown and
    > reassembly of pf, game immediately started to reset whenever both
    > flippers were pressed at same time. I measured the voltage on BR2 and
    > found it to be only 9v, instead of 12-15v. Replaced BR1 and BR2, added
    > some of the jumpers as shown in the guide posted at marvin3m. Now,
    > game does not boot up. DMD does show some activity, but garbled lights
    > only, which gradually go dark after about 30sec - 1 min, also ticking
    > sound comes from the speakers, but no other activity. Voltage on BR2
    > still measures only 9v. I did not replace any of the caps. Any ideas?
    >
  3. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    ok...this is my first attempt at board repair or fixing a major TZ
    fault, so thanks for being patient with me.

    First - a question for Kampfflieger, im not sure what you mean by
    reinforcement of the 5v? Do you mean run a jumper from the 5v (p3,4) on
    J114 to J904 p1? What is the recommended method to do this?

    Second - After replacement of BR1 and BR2 and placement of BR2 to C5
    jumpers and BR5 to C30 jumpers, I do not find any blown fuses and the
    voltage readings are still the same (9v), so am I safe to assume that
    nothing is shorted on the board (due to faulty repair) and that the
    problem is most likely NOT the rectifiers? I know that there are many
    instances of replacement rectifiers being bad, but aren't the odds of
    getting the same voltage reading low if the new rectifier is bad?

    Also, the game does not boot but I get a scattering of lights on the
    DMD and a ticking sound from the speakers, is there a recommended
    trouble shooting 'path'? That is, can I disconnect certain things from
    one or more boards to see if the fault can be isolated? Thanks for any
    additional help.
  4. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    As we know, the PDB brings 5V to the Fliptronics board and the CPU
    board (J210-5 and J502-3) using a common pin(J114-3).This gives 5V to
    the Fliptronics board (J904-1) too, using a bridge. I I only gets a
    cable directly from J114-3 to J904-1, without unplugging the bridge.
    The bridge it's the connector used between the PBD and the Sound Board.
    It works.

    bmillarlaw@yahoo.com wrote:
    > ok...this is my first attempt at board repair or fixing a major TZ
    > fault, so thanks for being patient with me.
    >
    > First - a question for Kampfflieger, im not sure what you mean by
    > reinforcement of the 5v? Do you mean run a jumper from the 5v (p3,4) on
    > J114 to J904 p1? What is the recommended method to do this?
    >
    > Second - After replacement of BR1 and BR2 and placement of BR2 to C5
    > jumpers and BR5 to C30 jumpers, I do not find any blown fuses and the
    > voltage readings are still the same (9v), so am I safe to assume that
    > nothing is shorted on the board (due to faulty repair) and that the
    > problem is most likely NOT the rectifiers? I know that there are many
    > instances of replacement rectifiers being bad, but aren't the odds of
    > getting the same voltage reading low if the new rectifier is bad?
    >
    > Also, the game does not boot but I get a scattering of lights on the
    > DMD and a ticking sound from the speakers, is there a recommended
    > trouble shooting 'path'? That is, can I disconnect certain things from
    > one or more boards to see if the fault can be isolated? Thanks for any
    > additional help.
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