Tech: Em pinball

[otto]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

1972 Williams Fun-Fest

My first EM so it won't take much to go right over my head. Started a
previous thread as a manual request but has digressed so thought I would
start a new thread.

Here are the problems I have found so far:

1. When starting a one player game, the lights come up and the reels reset
to 00000, but sometimes the game will not serve up the ball from the trough.
Other times is serves it up just fine.

2. No chime. Chime box is missing a center chime post and the chime post on
one of the outboard chimes is about shot. No plastic washers but there were
a couple metal ones. One chime retaining bar is missing(center one) Gaskets
all but gone. Only found 2 of the spacers that look like yellowed clear
tubing. Plungers were gunked up to the bottom of the chime box where there
was some weatherstripping so they would not move. Cleaned out the coil
sleeves. Looking for any hints/experience on replacing or rebuilding and any
sources for parts. Pictures also welcome.

Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

does the score motor keep running?

john

www.kansascitypinball.com

 

[Sean]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Check the switch for the ball through - sounds like a contact problem.
Maybe dirty or misaligned?

For the chimes, I've used old 5/8" rubber rings above and below the
chimes, and then secured with a larger washer and nut on the top of the
ring to hold it in place. They've always sounded great.

- Sean

Otto wrote:
> 1972 Williams Fun-Fest
>
> My first EM so it won't take much to go right over my head. Started a
> previous thread as a manual request but has digressed so thought I would
> start a new thread.
>
> Here are the problems I have found so far:
>
> 1. When starting a one player game, the lights come up and the reels reset
> to 00000, but sometimes the game will not serve up the ball from the trough.
> Other times is serves it up just fine.
>
> 2. No chime. Chime box is missing a center chime post and the chime post on
> one of the outboard chimes is about shot. No plastic washers but there were
> a couple metal ones. One chime retaining bar is missing(center one) Gaskets
> all but gone. Only found 2 of the spacers that look like yellowed clear
> tubing. Plungers were gunked up to the bottom of the chime box where there
> was some weatherstripping so they would not move. Cleaned out the coil
> sleeves. Looking for any hints/experience on replacing or rebuilding and any
> sources for parts. Pictures also welcome.
>
> Otto
>
> CARGPB11
>
> My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

someone on Martys EM yahoo group just tried felt washers for the chimes
and reported that the saound was better than with rubber. Something to
consider

sean wrote:
> Check the switch for the ball through - sounds like a contact problem.
> Maybe dirty or misaligned?
>
> For the chimes, I've used old 5/8" rubber rings above and below the
> chimes, and then secured with a larger washer and nut on the top of the
> ring to hold it in place. They've always sounded great.
>
> - Sean
>
> Otto wrote:
>
>>1972 Williams Fun-Fest
>>
>>My first EM so it won't take much to go right over my head. Started a
>>previous thread as a manual request but has digressed so thought I would
>>start a new thread.
>>
>>Here are the problems I have found so far:
>>
>>1. When starting a one player game, the lights come up and the reels reset
>>to 00000, but sometimes the game will not serve up the ball from the trough.
>>Other times is serves it up just fine.
>>
>>2. No chime. Chime box is missing a center chime post and the chime post on
>>one of the outboard chimes is about shot. No plastic washers but there were
>>a couple metal ones. One chime retaining bar is missing(center one) Gaskets
>>all but gone. Only found 2 of the spacers that look like yellowed clear
>>tubing. Plungers were gunked up to the bottom of the chime box where there
>>was some weatherstripping so they would not move. Cleaned out the coil
>>sleeves. Looking for any hints/experience on replacing or rebuilding and any
>>sources for parts. Pictures also welcome.
>>
>>Otto
>>
>>CARGPB11
>>
>>My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding
>
>

--
Cliffy - CARGPB2
A passion for pinball!
http://www.passionforpinball.com

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

its likely not the trough switch it self but my guess too is that it is
in that circut if the score motor stops.

look on the dia. for a switch in the trough circut that is effected by
the # of players and that is most likely your problem.

btw the score motor is not the same as the score reels. the score motor
it the part in the cab that has cams on it. it will turn on and run
till the game is all reset.

if it is still running than the problem is not likely the truogh but
something that has not reset.

if the motor stops then the game has reset and the ball didn't kick out
cuz that circut is open somewhere.

john

www.kansascitypinball.com

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I put the main board on top of machine, pf on side of machine. Plub in
all connectors and trouble shoot that way. Theres probable a stepper
unit for ball count. There should be a relay for outhole, tripping it
should make out hole kick.
Grojohn

 

[otto]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I googled and found someone that recommended 1 1/2" square pieces of 3m pad
with a hole punched in the middle.

I am missing the center retaining bar and and a couple of the chime bars
that stick up off the chime box are broken


Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

"Cliffy" <crinear@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:BvudnZNav8Dw6JLeRVn-3g@comcast.com...
> someone on Martys EM yahoo group just tried felt washers for the chimes
> and reported that the saound was better than with rubber. Something to
> consider
>
> sean wrote:
>> Check the switch for the ball through - sounds like a contact problem.
>> Maybe dirty or misaligned?
>>
>> For the chimes, I've used old 5/8" rubber rings above and below the
>> chimes, and then secured with a larger washer and nut on the top of the
>> ring to hold it in place. They've always sounded great.
>>
>> - Sean
>>
>> Otto wrote:
>>
>>>1972 Williams Fun-Fest
>>>
>>>My first EM so it won't take much to go right over my head. Started a
>>>previous thread as a manual request but has digressed so thought I would
>>>start a new thread.
>>>
>>>Here are the problems I have found so far:
>>>
>>>1. When starting a one player game, the lights come up and the reels
>>>reset
>>>to 00000, but sometimes the game will not serve up the ball from the
>>>trough.
>>>Other times is serves it up just fine.
>>>
>>>2. No chime. Chime box is missing a center chime post and the chime post
>>>on
>>>one of the outboard chimes is about shot. No plastic washers but there
>>>were
>>>a couple metal ones. One chime retaining bar is missing(center one)
>>>Gaskets
>>>all but gone. Only found 2 of the spacers that look like yellowed clear
>>>tubing. Plungers were gunked up to the bottom of the chime box where
>>>there
>>>was some weatherstripping so they would not move. Cleaned out the coil
>>>sleeves. Looking for any hints/experience on replacing or rebuilding and
>>>any
>>>sources for parts. Pictures also welcome.
>>>
>>>Otto
>>>
>>>CARGPB11
>>>
>>>My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding
>>
>>
>
> --
> Cliffy - CARGPB2
> A passion for pinball!
> http://www.passionforpinball.com

 

[otto]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Would the trough switch be it if selecting additional player(s) always gets
the ball into the trough and working with player 1 up?

Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

"sean" <sspindler@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:1125081112.436131.217740@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Check the switch for the ball through - sounds like a contact problem.
> Maybe dirty or misaligned?
>
> For the chimes, I've used old 5/8" rubber rings above and below the
> chimes, and then secured with a larger washer and nut on the top of the
> ring to hold it in place. They've always sounded great.
>
> - Sean
>
> Otto wrote:
>> 1972 Williams Fun-Fest
>>
>> My first EM so it won't take much to go right over my head. Started a
>> previous thread as a manual request but has digressed so thought I would
>> start a new thread.
>>
>> Here are the problems I have found so far:
>>
>> 1. When starting a one player game, the lights come up and the reels
>> reset
>> to 00000, but sometimes the game will not serve up the ball from the
>> trough.
>> Other times is serves it up just fine.
>>
>> 2. No chime. Chime box is missing a center chime post and the chime post
>> on
>> one of the outboard chimes is about shot. No plastic washers but there
>> were
>> a couple metal ones. One chime retaining bar is missing(center one)
>> Gaskets
>> all but gone. Only found 2 of the spacers that look like yellowed clear
>> tubing. Plungers were gunked up to the bottom of the chime box where
>> there
>> was some weatherstripping so they would not move. Cleaned out the coil
>> sleeves. Looking for any hints/experience on replacing or rebuilding and
>> any
>> sources for parts. Pictures also welcome.
>>
>> Otto
>>
>> CARGPB11
>>
>> My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding
>

 

[otto]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

No.

All the score reels reset at 00000 and stop. Game just sits there all lit up
and no ball kicked to shooter. Does not always do it but at least a third
of the time. At this point if I hit the start button for additional
player(s), it kicks the ball out and starts at player 1.

Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

"kansas city pinball.com" <rgp@johncglennon.com> wrote in message
news:1125080367.545336.177360@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> does the score motor keep running?

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

this is how you find the problem

1 get a wire dia.

2 find the out hole coil on the dia.

3 look at all the switches in that circut
there are likely only 2 one on that relay the other on the score
motor but
there could be others.

4 clean and adj each.

also williams are bad about solder cracks on coils. you might also try
to reflow the coil wires.

also connectors are a problem. find your wire for the coil at the
connector and meter it.
or clean the connectors with a scuff pad.


john

www.kansascitypinball.com

 

[otto]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Here is a real dumb question:

How do you work on the thing? I can put the playfield up against the back
box. What if you need the playfield down but still want to get under it like
on a Wpc when you have it resting on the braces and on the front of the pin
cab.

Can I poke around this thing with the power on? Where are the hazards?


Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

 

[otto]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

The score reels reset and the game is quiet except for the relay that is
energized by the ball in the trough. I can hear a slight buzz. If I remove
the ball and allow the switch to open, then the buzz stops. The trough
switch is sensing fine. It breaks down somewhere from the relay on down.

Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

"kansas city pinball.com" <rgp@johncglennon.com> wrote in message
news:1125088941.573440.199660@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> its likely not the trough switch it self but my guess too is that it is
> in that circut if the score motor stops.
>
> look on the dia. for a switch in the trough circut that is effected by
> the # of players and that is most likely your problem.
>
> btw the score motor is not the same as the score reels. the score motor
> it the part in the cab that has cams on it. it will turn on and run
> till the game is all reset.
>
> if it is still running than the problem is not likely the truogh but
> something that has not reset.
>
> if the motor stops then the game has reset and the ball didn't kick out
> cuz that circut is open somewhere.
>
> john
>
> www.kansascitypinball.com
>

 

[otto]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

The trough switch activates the relay on the underside of the playfield and
that is it. The outhole kicker does not activate.

Select additional players and it works just fine.

Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

"Grojohn" <carniello@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1125091731.784760.273430@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>I put the main board on top of machine, pf on side of machine. Plub in
> all connectors and trouble shoot that way. Theres probable a stepper
> unit for ball count. There should be a relay for outhole, tripping it
> should make out hole kick.
> Grojohn
>

 

[otto]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Now I feel like I have some direction.



I'm on it chief.

Just printed up the schematics. Thanks Leon.

I'll post back.




Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

"kansas city pinball.com" <rgp@johncglennon.com> wrote in message
news:1125098460.174659.285640@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> this is how you find the problem
>
> 1 get a wire dia.
>
> 2 find the out hole coil on the dia.
>
> 3 look at all the switches in that circut
> there are likely only 2 one on that relay the other on the score
> motor but
> there could be others.
>
> 4 clean and adj each.
>
> also williams are bad about solder cracks on coils. you might also try
> to reflow the coil wires.
>
> also connectors are a problem. find your wire for the coil at the
> connector and meter it.
> or clean the connectors with a scuff pad.
>
>
> john
>
> www.kansascitypinball.com
>

 

[otto]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Found the eject coil on the schematic.


There is the eject relay and there is another item called:

M.B. (symbol here) 4-B

The symbol is a vertical oval with three vertical lines(one long on left and
2 short on right--all parallel) inside it and a horizontal line coming out
of it.

What does this mean on the schematic and where is this component located?




Where do I find the connector for the coil? In the head or the cab?



Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

"kansas city pinball.com" <rgp@johncglennon.com> wrote in message
news:1125098460.174659.285640@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> this is how you find the problem
>
> 1 get a wire dia.
>
> 2 find the out hole coil on the dia.
>
> 3 look at all the switches in that circut
> there are likely only 2 one on that relay the other on the score
> motor but
> there could be others.
>
> 4 clean and adj each.
>
> also williams are bad about solder cracks on coils. you might also try
> to reflow the coil wires.
>
> also connectors are a problem. find your wire for the coil at the
> connector and meter it.
> or clean the connectors with a scuff pad.
>
>
> john
>
> www.kansascitypinball.com
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

On 2005-08-26 08:29:24 -0700, "Otto" <ottondebremove&%$*@bellsouth.net> said:

> 1972 Williams Fun-Fest
>
> My first EM so it won't take much to go right over my head. Started a
> previous thread as a manual request but has digressed so thought I
> would start a new thread.
>
> Here are the problems I have found so far:
>
> 1. When starting a one player game, the lights come up and the reels
> reset to 00000, but sometimes the game will not serve up the ball from
> the trough. Other times is serves it up just fine.
>
> 2. No chime. Chime box is missing a center chime post and the chime
> post on one of the outboard chimes is about shot. No plastic washers
> but there were a couple metal ones. One chime retaining bar is
> missing(center one) Gaskets all but gone. Only found 2 of the spacers
> that look like yellowed clear tubing. Plungers were gunked up to the
> bottom of the chime box where there was some weatherstripping so they
> would not move. Cleaned out the coil sleeves. Looking for any
> hints/experience on replacing or rebuilding and any sources for parts.
> Pictures also welcome.
>
> Otto
>
> CARGPB11
>
> My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

1) Listen to the game! Really. You will learn the difference between
the sounds it makes while it is resetting and find the point where it
seems to stop. Williams EM games don't reveal as much acoutically as
Gottlieb EM during reset, but the time it takes to eject the ball once
the reels are reset should be consistant. So, the reels spin to 0000,
now if there are any drop targets they should all reset, and the main
bank(s) should reset (Ka-CHUNK), then a small clunk and then the ball
should eject to the shooter trough.

So when listen for a while and try and hear the point where the game
stops during the reset cycle - then turn to the schematic and ask for
help.

2) Welcome to restorations! You might be able to make your own parts to
replace the missing - and some are avaialble from Pinball Resource, us,
and other collectors. Chime bars I'm not sure about - someone should
make those! They are simply aluminum bars (width, length & thickness
matters here) that are cut to a specific length for the tone you want.

John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech enquires to the newsgroup) John's
Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 Call
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they
just flip out."

 

[otto]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

No drop targets or banks on this game.

The outhole switch triggers a relay on the bottom of the playfield near the
flipper assemblies. Even though the ball does not kick out, I can hear and
see(if I raise the pf and activate the switch) that relay energize. I did
find a wire on that relay that was disconnected. I resoldered that to the
only empty lug(also the lug that the wire was next to and touching).

I disassembled and cleaned the outhole kicker and put in a new sleeve(still
had a metal one) but this did not fix the problem.

I have all the chime bars. The chime box has a couple broken tabs that the
bars slide over. I also am missing one of the chime retaining bars that go
on top of the chime bars.



Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

"John Robertson" <spam@flippers.com> wrote in message
news:2005082613391427544%spam@flipperscom...
> On 2005-08-26 08:29:24 -0700, "Otto" <ottondebremove&%$*@bellsouth.net>
> said:
>
>> 1972 Williams Fun-Fest
>>
>> My first EM so it won't take much to go right over my head. Started a
>> previous thread as a manual request but has digressed so thought I would
>> start a new thread.
>>
>> Here are the problems I have found so far:
>>
>> 1. When starting a one player game, the lights come up and the reels
>> reset to 00000, but sometimes the game will not serve up the ball from
>> the trough. Other times is serves it up just fine.
>>
>> 2. No chime. Chime box is missing a center chime post and the chime post
>> on one of the outboard chimes is about shot. No plastic washers but there
>> were a couple metal ones. One chime retaining bar is missing(center one)
>> Gaskets all but gone. Only found 2 of the spacers that look like yellowed
>> clear tubing. Plungers were gunked up to the bottom of the chime box
>> where there was some weatherstripping so they would not move. Cleaned out
>> the coil sleeves. Looking for any hints/experience on replacing or
>> rebuilding and any sources for parts. Pictures also welcome.
>>
>> Otto
>>
>> CARGPB11
>>
>> My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding
>
> 1) Listen to the game! Really. You will learn the difference between the
> sounds it makes while it is resetting and find the point where it seems to
> stop. Williams EM games don't reveal as much acoutically as Gottlieb EM
> during reset, but the time it takes to eject the ball once the reels are
> reset should be consistant. So, the reels spin to 0000, now if there are
> any drop targets they should all reset, and the main bank(s) should reset
> (Ka-CHUNK), then a small clunk and then the ball should eject to the
> shooter trough.
>
> So when listen for a while and try and hear the point where the game stops
> during the reset cycle - then turn to the schematic and ask for help.
>
> 2) Welcome to restorations! You might be able to make your own parts to
> replace the missing - and some are avaialble from Pinball Resource, us,
> and other collectors. Chime bars I'm not sure about - someone should make
> those! They are simply aluminum bars (width, length & thickness matters
> here) that are cut to a specific length for the tone you want.
>
> John :-#)#
> --
> (Please post followups or tech enquires to the newsgroup) John's Jukes
> Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 Call (604)872-5757
> or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com
> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

 

[MD]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I'll second this. My EM Night Rider had rubber washers that were
basically rotted out, so I went to Home Depot and bought some of their
felt picture hanger washers ($0.13 each or so) and some steel washers to
fill in any extra space as needed. Sandwiched them as needed to fill
the post, and it works great, and sounds nice and clear. I do need to
go back and add a steel washer or two because there is some play in a
bar that gives the chime a metallic knock when it's struck. I used the
same trick years ago to repair a glockenspiel in college.

Mike


In article <BvudnZNav8Dw6JLeRVn-3g@comcast.com>,
Cliffy <crinear@comcast.net> wrote:

> someone on Martys EM yahoo group just tried felt washers for the chimes
> and reported that the saound was better than with rubber. Something to
> consider
>
> sean wrote:
> > Check the switch for the ball through - sounds like a contact problem.
> > Maybe dirty or misaligned?
> >
> > For the chimes, I've used old 5/8" rubber rings above and below the
> > chimes, and then secured with a larger washer and nut on the top of the
> > ring to hold it in place. They've always sounded great.
> >
> > - Sean
> >
> > Otto wrote:
> >
> >>1972 Williams Fun-Fest
> >>
> >>My first EM so it won't take much to go right over my head. Started a
> >>previous thread as a manual request but has digressed so thought I would
> >>start a new thread.
> >>
> >>Here are the problems I have found so far:
> >>
> >>1. When starting a one player game, the lights come up and the reels reset
> >>to 00000, but sometimes the game will not serve up the ball from the trough.
> >>Other times is serves it up just fine.
> >>
> >>2. No chime. Chime box is missing a center chime post and the chime post on
> >>one of the outboard chimes is about shot. No plastic washers but there were
> >>a couple metal ones. One chime retaining bar is missing(center one) Gaskets
> >>all but gone. Only found 2 of the spacers that look like yellowed clear
> >>tubing. Plungers were gunked up to the bottom of the chime box where there
> >>was some weatherstripping so they would not move. Cleaned out the coil
> >>sleeves. Looking for any hints/experience on replacing or rebuilding and any
> >>sources for parts. Pictures also welcome.
> >>
> >>Otto
> >>
> >>CARGPB11
> >>
> >>My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding
> >
> >

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

The outhole relay will have one switch in the stack that causes the
score motor to run and pulse the solenoid that sends the ball into the
shooter lane. That switch is probably dirty or has a cold solder joint.

When you press the credit switch for additional players, the score
motor is made to cycle again by a different relay to advance the player
unit and decrement the credit unit. That additional score motor cycle
allows the outhole solenoid to receive its pulse and open the circuit
to the outhole relay.

Kevin


Otto wrote:
> The score reels reset and the game is quiet except for the relay that is
> energized by the ball in the trough. I can hear a slight buzz. If I remove
> the ball and allow the switch to open, then the buzz stops. The trough
> switch is sensing fine. It breaks down somewhere from the relay on down.
>
> Otto
>
> CARGPB11
>
> My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding
>
> "kansas city pinball.com" <rgp@johncglennon.com> wrote in message
> news:1125088941.573440.199660@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> > its likely not the trough switch it self but my guess too is that it is
> > in that circut if the score motor stops.
> >
> > look on the dia. for a switch in the trough circut that is effected by
> > the # of players and that is most likely your problem.
> >
> > btw the score motor is not the same as the score reels. the score motor
> > it the part in the cab that has cams on it. it will turn on and run
> > till the game is all reset.
> >
> > if it is still running than the problem is not likely the truogh but
> > something that has not reset.
> >
> > if the motor stops then the game has reset and the ball didn't kick out
> > cuz that circut is open somewhere.
> >
> > john
> >
> > www.kansascitypinball.com
> >

 

[MikeO]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Hey Kevin!!!!!

Welcome to RGP.

Mike O.

 

[otto]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I have located the outhole relay in the bottom of the cabinet and it has a
stack of 5 different switches. The center switch is the one that sparks when
the outhole coil fires.

I used some fine medium emery paper and sanded each of the switches in that
stack. Bad form?

I will reflow all the solder joints(where the wire connects to the lugs) on
that switch.

The second paragraph is flying over my head due to my novice status on EMs
and I feel like I am peering into thick fog.. It seems backwards to me. I
thought the motor allowed the the outhole relay to energize which in turn
fires the outhole solenoid. It seems to me like I see the relay energize
before the solenoid fires.

Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

<kwing1000@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1125117410.066349.54780@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> The outhole relay will have one switch in the stack that causes the
> score motor to run and pulse the solenoid that sends the ball into the
> shooter lane. That switch is probably dirty or has a cold solder joint.
>
> When you press the credit switch for additional players, the score
> motor is made to cycle again by a different relay to advance the player
> unit and decrement the credit unit. That additional score motor cycle
> allows the outhole solenoid to receive its pulse and open the circuit
> to the outhole relay.
>
> Kevin
>
>
> Otto wrote:
>> The score reels reset and the game is quiet except for the relay that is
>> energized by the ball in the trough. I can hear a slight buzz. If I
>> remove
>> the ball and allow the switch to open, then the buzz stops. The trough
>> switch is sensing fine. It breaks down somewhere from the relay on down.
>>
>> Otto
>>
>> CARGPB11
>>
>> My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding
>>
>> "kansas city pinball.com" <rgp@johncglennon.com> wrote in message
>> news:1125088941.573440.199660@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
>> > its likely not the trough switch it self but my guess too is that it is
>> > in that circut if the score motor stops.
>> >
>> > look on the dia. for a switch in the trough circut that is effected by
>> > the # of players and that is most likely your problem.
>> >
>> > btw the score motor is not the same as the score reels. the score motor
>> > it the part in the cab that has cams on it. it will turn on and run
>> > till the game is all reset.
>> >
>> > if it is still running than the problem is not likely the truogh but
>> > something that has not reset.
>> >
>> > if the motor stops then the game has reset and the ball didn't kick out
>> > cuz that circut is open somewhere.
>> >
>> > john
>> >
>> > www.kansascitypinball.com
>> >
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I've been making new ones for my WMS games for
years. The material they used is a standard size and
thickness. It can be purchased (cheap!), from local
metal suppliers. It comes in 20ft lengths for a few bucks.

(Bring a hacksaw.)

Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
======================================


"John Robertson" <spam@flippers.com> wrote in message news:2005082613391427544%spam@flipperscom...

> 2) Welcome to restorations! You might be able to make your own parts to
> replace the missing - and some are avaialble from Pinball Resource, us,
> and other collectors. Chime bars I'm not sure about - someone should
> make those! They are simply aluminum bars (width, length & thickness
> matters here) that are cut to a specific length for the tone you want.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I turn them upside down, and place them back in
the cab to work on the bottom. Place the lockdown
bar across the end to keep it from falling in.

To work on the bottom motor board: Remove the pf
entirely. Pull the motorboard out, and lay it crossways
on the cab rails. Clean, repair, adjust everything and
re-install.

There is 115vac running around the cabs in many EMs,
so appropriate precautions should be taken. High voltage
can damage some stepper units and contacts.

OTOH, there are few precious solid state circuit boards that
can be damaged.

--
Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
******************

"Otto" <ottondebremove&%$*@bellsouth.net> wrote in

>
> How do you work on the thing? I can put the playfield up against the back
> box. What if you need the playfield down but still want to get under it like
> on a Wpc when you have it resting on the braces and on the front of the pin
> cab.
>
> Can I poke around this thing with the power on? Where are the hazards?

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Otto:

That could be a clue.

On your schematic at location 13-E there is a normally closed switch
on the game over relay and the reset relay that feeds the line to ball
release coil, center target relay, outhole relay and trough relay
among others.

Kevin

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Otto:

The eject coil is on the eject hole at the top of the playfield.

M.B. Is the abbreviation for a make/break switch. It usually has a
longer switch blade between two shorter ones. As the center blade is
moved, it breaks contact with a short blade contact on one side before
making contact with the short blade on the other side.

The circular symbol around the schematic representation of the
make/break switch indicates a switch actuated by a motor cam.

4-B indicates the score motor cam number #4 Switch B. The numbering
of the cams is confusing because the cam with two indentions in it at
the beginning of the row of cams is called the index cam. Then the
ones following it are numbered 1,2,3,4 etc. until you reach the cams at
the other end with 10 bumps on them. They are called index cams. They
give the machine the familiar 5 pulse heartbeat that you hear during
resets. Each 180 degree rotation of a cam equals one score motor
cycle. (Gottlieb is a 120 degree rotation per cycle.)

The cam switches on the score motor are lettered from the closest to
the cam out. So switch 4-B is on the fifth cam, second from the
bottom. The schematic area 15 B shows the score motor cam switches and
lists where the go which, in this case, pulses the eject coil.

Kevin