Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (
More info?)
Hi All,
I have finally got my collection so that it is not on a continuous rotating
basis and I'm down too all the keepers.
I'm starting to clean up the machines.
Got a HS2, FT, RS, WCS94, WH20. Also got a sit down Racer - Daytona 2 USA PE
Just got done totally going over a Daytona 2 USA Power Edition sit down
racer. Completely gutted and cleaned everthing. Replaced the rubber
diamond plate floorboard with marine grade black carpet and all the hardware
with shiny new stainless stuff. Even thinking about installing a custom
racing seat.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIte...
(Overall it looks realy sweet right now)
So now onto the next machine
I've got a getaway that is really nice condition, (with the exception of the
normal faded cabinet decals)
I saw Pheonix Aracade selling decals.
Is this a BIG job to redecal? (take apart, sanding, priming, clarcoat,
re-decal)
I've done the take apart (about 20 times) so I know what is invloved there.
All of my games need to come apart before they make the trip too the 3rd
floor gameroom and then back together again..
How much work is involved in the re-decal process once the game is apart for
a first timer?
(10 HRS, 20HRS More?)
How easy is it to 'mess up' during the acutal decalling (bubbles, tears,
rips, misalligment)?
I've read the redo guide on Robert Winters site. Just trying to make the
following determinations
1) Is it 'worth it' (for a getwaway - I know a SS or MM would be a better
return on time and investment)
2) How much effort is invloved.
3) Should I just leave it and learn to either live with the fade or just not
look at it?
All feedback appreciated from those that have either done this successfully
or others who have had a 'major mishap' in the middle of the process.
Also any tips for decalling wannabe newbies appreciated.
Anyone done it and given the hindsight would you do it again or just live
with the fading 'as is'
Thanks
Bob Presutti