NOS playfield, to clear coat or not ?

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Hello folks, I recently performed a perilous mylar removal on my
Funhouse. The end results were fabulous. Under all that yellowed and
bubbled mylar was a playfield in nearly perfect conditon. I decided to
simply keep the playfield waxed (HUO) and not apply a clearcoat. I
really think it looks best this way.

My next project is a little different. My wife has a Bugs Bunny that
she is quite fond of. She collects lots of Bugs Bunny stuff and this
pin is essential to her collection. The original playfield is very dry
with lots of alligator cracking. Much dirt has accumulated in the fine
cracks in the finish. The paint is also missing from many of the
inserts. So, I purchased a NOS playfield from Marco. The new
playfield is in a box in my den and looks fantastic. I actually
expected it to show some signs of age from years of storage, but its
actually quite perfect. Now, keep in mind, this is a mostly white
playfield. Should I clearcoat this playfield to prevent is from
getting dry and flaky like the original.

 

[Troy]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

leave it original NOS!


Troy,


"MrWurm" <webwurm@direcway.com> wrote in message
news:1125621175.307484.53790@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Hello folks, I recently performed a perilous mylar removal on my
> Funhouse. The end results were fabulous. Under all that yellowed and
> bubbled mylar was a playfield in nearly perfect conditon. I decided to
> simply keep the playfield waxed (HUO) and not apply a clearcoat. I
> really think it looks best this way.
>
> My next project is a little different. My wife has a Bugs Bunny that
> she is quite fond of. She collects lots of Bugs Bunny stuff and this
> pin is essential to her collection. The original playfield is very dry
> with lots of alligator cracking. Much dirt has accumulated in the fine
> cracks in the finish. The paint is also missing from many of the
> inserts. So, I purchased a NOS playfield from Marco. The new
> playfield is in a box in my den and looks fantastic. I actually
> expected it to show some signs of age from years of storage, but its
> actually quite perfect. Now, keep in mind, this is a mostly white
> playfield. Should I clearcoat this playfield to prevent is from
> getting dry and flaky like the original.
>

 

[BillB]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

> leave it original NOS!
>
>

give it several good coats of wax and that's IT!

--
billb
"Troy" <troyl@lvcm.com> wrote in message
news:FLNRe.3491$mH.1120@fed1read07...
> Troy,
>
>
> "MrWurm" <webwurm@direcway.com> wrote in message
> news:1125621175.307484.53790@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> > Hello folks, I recently performed a perilous mylar removal on my
> > Funhouse. The end results were fabulous. Under all that yellowed and
> > bubbled mylar was a playfield in nearly perfect conditon. I decided to
> > simply keep the playfield waxed (HUO) and not apply a clearcoat. I
> > really think it looks best this way.
> >
> > My next project is a little different. My wife has a Bugs Bunny that
> > she is quite fond of. She collects lots of Bugs Bunny stuff and this
> > pin is essential to her collection. The original playfield is very dry
> > with lots of alligator cracking. Much dirt has accumulated in the fine
> > cracks in the finish. The paint is also missing from many of the
> > inserts. So, I purchased a NOS playfield from Marco. The new
> > playfield is in a box in my den and looks fantastic. I actually
> > expected it to show some signs of age from years of storage, but its
> > actually quite perfect. Now, keep in mind, this is a mostly white
> > playfield. Should I clearcoat this playfield to prevent is from
> > getting dry and flaky like the original.
> >
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Best thing to do might be to find someone in your neck of the woods
that has taken out stripped and clearcoated a PF and reinstalled it,
ask if he'd show you the game. Otherwise i'd go along with _no, it
home use, keep it clean and waxed.

zTim

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

You really don't need to. If you have the money, then go for it, but I don't
think it will make much of a difference. Keep it clean, waxed, and you
shouldn't have an issue. If the cracks are at the surface, you might risk
lifting from the ball over time, I'd be sure to keep an eye on the balls age
too. Be sure to clean every part on the Playfield swap, it will prevent junk
from playing a role in damaging. My $.02

--Eric

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I could not agree more strongly with you, Eric! It seems excessive to
clearcoat (and make unoriginal) a game dedicated to home use only. Cleaning
all the parts to obsessive-compulsive standards is also a good idea!

Merely my opinions.

Respectfully submitted,
Dan

 

[karl]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

As much as I love ClearCoat, and i really love ClearCoat, I personaly
would not clear it.

I put in two NOS playfields and did not clear them. Sinbad and Solar
Ride.

I made some worn PF's look (almost) like new and ClearCoat was critical
to preserve the touch up.

That's all I have to say about that...

Karl.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

And thats the only reason I clear. To preserve touchups.

Karl wrote:
> As much as I love ClearCoat, and i really love ClearCoat, I personaly
> would not clear it.
>
> I put in two NOS playfields and did not clear them. Sinbad and Solar
> Ride.
>
> I made some worn PF's look (almost) like new and ClearCoat was critical
> to preserve the touch up.
>
> That's all I have to say about that...
>
> Karl.
>

--
Cliffy - CARGPB2
A passion for pinball!
http://www.passionforpinball.com

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

well, I know it'd be alot easier to clearcoat now, rather than later.

but, I think the best solution would be to install the NOS pf, uncleared.
Then take the old one and see if that can be repaired by the specialists out
there. Then keep it as a spare.

my $.02,
Jeremy

"MrWurm" <webwurm@direcway.com> wrote in message
news:1125621175.307484.53790@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Hello folks, I recently performed a perilous mylar removal on my
> Funhouse. The end results were fabulous. Under all that yellowed and
> bubbled mylar was a playfield in nearly perfect conditon. I decided to
> simply keep the playfield waxed (HUO) and not apply a clearcoat. I
> really think it looks best this way.
>
> My next project is a little different. My wife has a Bugs Bunny that
> she is quite fond of. She collects lots of Bugs Bunny stuff and this
> pin is essential to her collection. The original playfield is very dry
> with lots of alligator cracking. Much dirt has accumulated in the fine
> cracks in the finish. The paint is also missing from many of the
> inserts. So, I purchased a NOS playfield from Marco. The new
> playfield is in a box in my den and looks fantastic. I actually
> expected it to show some signs of age from years of storage, but its
> actually quite perfect. Now, keep in mind, this is a mostly white
> playfield. Should I clearcoat this playfield to prevent is from
> getting dry and flaky like the original.
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Hell no!

--
Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
******************


"MrWurm" <webwurm@direcway.com> wrote in message news:1125621175.307484.53790@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Should I clearcoat this playfield to prevent is from
> getting dry and flaky like the original.
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Wow, seems there is a consensus. No clearcoat. Ok, now for the
playfield swap. Should I remove a component, clean it, and then
install on the new playfield (one at a time), or should I remove all
components, catalog and photograph, and then build up the new
playfield. I was estimating 8 hours for the teardown and 10 hours for
the buildup. All comments are welcome.

 

[BillB]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

home use is no where close to arcade use. ever.

--
billb
"Rockola" <fredmertz_1@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1125628850.395322.304380@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> Best thing to do might be to find someone in your neck of the woods
> that has taken out stripped and clearcoated a PF and reinstalled it,
> ask if he'd show you the game. Otherwise i'd go along with _no, it
> home use, keep it clean and waxed.
>
> zTim
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

MrWurm wrote:
> Wow, seems there is a consensus. No clearcoat. Ok, now for the
> playfield swap. Should I remove a component, clean it, and then
> install on the new playfield (one at a time), or should I remove all
> components, catalog and photograph, and then build up the new
> playfield. I was estimating 8 hours for the teardown and 10 hours for
> the buildup. All comments are welcome.

Is this your first playfield swap? I swapped a NOS playfield on BBBB
just six months ago and I did not keep a close track of the time, but I
know it was at least 25 hours and I have done about 10 swaps or so.
There are really two playfields for that game. I remember it being an
easier swap than most. You might want to google on the playfield swap
subject as it has been covered numerous times. If you have any
specific questions about that swap in particular, feel free to email
me.

By the way, I bought an NOS BBBB playfield from Marco last fall and I
decided to have it clearcoated. Nine times out of ten I will NOT have
a NOS playfield cleared, but in the case of Bugs I decided it was
necessary. I don't really remember all the specific reasons because it
is a beautiful playfield, but it did need a couple of very minor
touchups and there was something about the inserts that worried me at
the time.

Brian Bannon

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

It'll take longer than that to do it right. Actually, the teardown is
faster, the buildup you have to be very careful (especially if the new
pf is not dimpled and tnutted) or you will end up with a NOS pf that
doesn't play right because the targets and mechanisms are slightly off
kilter.

Take your time.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

seymour-shabow@excite.com wrote:
> the buildup you have to be very careful (especially if the new
> pf is not dimpled and tnutted) or you will end up with a NOS pf that
> doesn't play right because the targets and mechanisms are slightly off
> kilter.

Quite true, even when the playfield is dimpled you have to spend a fair
amount of time playtesting to really get it dialed in. I spend a
number of hours just on adjustments with every swap I do--pop bumpers,
slings, kickouts, ball guides, that sort of thing. I have played games
that had recent playfield swaps or teardowns without someone doing some
playtesting and they did not play well at all. It really is an
important part of doing the job right.

> Take your time.

Yes, it is easy to get excited when the job is almost done and try to
hurry things along, but it is a better idea to take a break once in
awhile to make sure that no mistakes are made.

Brian Bannon

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Well, I will go against the grain and say I would do it. I have CC'd
two NOS playfields so far. They look fantastic...stay looking
fantastic, and I like the look & gameplay.

But thats just me.

Barry - NY

 

[Andy]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Depends on whether it is diamond plated or not. If there is a cracking that
looks like a spider-web in any of the inserts, you will likely have a
bubbling or hazing happen on the inserts which will likely bum you out.
This happened to me on my F14. The clear job is perfect and was done by a
pro, but because the inserts had this "issue" before clearing it, it
actually got worse after some time has passed. None of this affects how the
game plays, just how the inserts look. I have several clearcoated games and
only the real old NOS fields (from my experience) have done this to me.
There is an answer though if insert decals are available for the game you
want to do, but many will scoff (as they don't know as much about this as
they think they do!) You can get a set of insert decals, clear your nos
field, then, cut out the inserts and mess, carefully with an exacto knife,
then put the new inserts on, then clear over it again. It will be perfect
then, but this is a lot of work, and is not to be taken lightly.

I just did a playfield swap on my police force and I put an NOS field and
ramps on it. Because the inserts had the same symptoms as my F14, I just
put the field in the game as is.

I'm on my 4th funhouse now (well, getting started on it soon) and I can say,
you will be happier with a clearcoated FH than not. It will play better /
faster after you break it in. My opinion of course, but you asked...

Hope this helps.

Andy

"MrWurm" <webwurm@direcway.com> wrote in message
news:1125621175.307484.53790@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Hello folks, I recently performed a perilous mylar removal on my
> Funhouse. The end results were fabulous. Under all that yellowed and
> bubbled mylar was a playfield in nearly perfect conditon. I decided to
> simply keep the playfield waxed (HUO) and not apply a clearcoat. I
> really think it looks best this way.
>
> My next project is a little different. My wife has a Bugs Bunny that
> she is quite fond of. She collects lots of Bugs Bunny stuff and this
> pin is essential to her collection. The original playfield is very dry
> with lots of alligator cracking. Much dirt has accumulated in the fine
> cracks in the finish. The paint is also missing from many of the
> inserts. So, I purchased a NOS playfield from Marco. The new
> playfield is in a box in my den and looks fantastic. I actually
> expected it to show some signs of age from years of storage, but its
> actually quite perfect. Now, keep in mind, this is a mostly white
> playfield. Should I clearcoat this playfield to prevent is from
> getting dry and flaky like the original.
>

 

[BillB]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

(especially if the new
> pf is not dimpled and tnutted)

what does that mean?

--
billb
<seymour-shabow@excite.com> wrote in message
news:1125673043.898759.146440@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> It'll take longer than that to do it right. Actually, the teardown is
> faster, the buildup you have to be very careful or you will end up with a
NOS pf that
> doesn't play right because the targets and mechanisms are slightly off
> kilter.
>
> Take your time.
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

billb wrote:
> (especially if the new
> > pf is not dimpled and tnutted)
>
> what does that mean?
>


I have picked up dozens of NOS playfields over the past several years
and I can tell you that they can range from completely finished,
meaning just like the original only new, to missing artwork and drill
holes. All NOS playfields are not created alike and may or may not be
dimpled and t-nutted.

The dimples are small starter holes or impressions in the wood placed
there at the factory. It is much easier to do a playfield swap with a
dimpled playfield than one that is not dimpled, at least it is for me.
The t-nuts are fasteners hammered into the wood that are placed there
for thru the playfield screws that hold down posts and assemblies. By
the way, Gottlieb Premier playfields are among the easiest to swap
because there is a pattern layed out on the playfield outlining where
everything is supposed to go.

Brian Bannon

 

[BillB]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

All NOS playfields are not created alike and may or may not be
> dimpled and t-nutted.
>

i did not know that. i cannot conceive of using one without the proper
"dimples" etc.

--
billb