Addams Family Main ramp install questions

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I am in the process of installing a main ramp for the Addams Family.
I was wondering if anyone else out there has done this before and had
any tips for me?
Is it customary to desolder all the switches, etc JUST to run the wire
through the holes that are in the ramp? If not what do you do?
Also what is the best device to get the flasher sockets off without
damaging them or the playfield?
And do most of you just use small bolts/nuts to put them back on?
And while I'm at it I will be adding about all the mods that I've seen
including cousin Itt, thing box decals, vault, phone, train (with LED),
knight, back board decal, bookcase decal, and last but not least Uncle
Fester! I will also be changing all the rubbers and bulbs and
freshening up the playfield.
Is there anything I should do first or last or whatever. Any help would
be appreciated!
Thanks!

 

[Toni]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Hi Larry,
I've never done that, but looks like you have to desolder the parts of
the ramp, (and just unplugg all the stuff in the underfield).
For dealing with rivets:
http://home.earthlink.net/~bil lg4me/pinball/rivet/
I'm a newbie as well... but I would get a clean and waxed playfield free
of obstacles, and then I'd change rubbers and bulbs, and then the rest.
Installing the ramp should be the last thing.
Hope it helps,
Toni

Larry G wrote:
> I am in the process of installing a main ramp for the Addams Family.
> I was wondering if anyone else out there has done this before and had
> any tips for me?
> Is it customary to desolder all the switches, etc JUST to run the wire
> through the holes that are in the ramp? If not what do you do?
> Also what is the best device to get the flasher sockets off without
> damaging them or the playfield?
> And do most of you just use small bolts/nuts to put them back on?
> And while I'm at it I will be adding about all the mods that I've seen
> including cousin Itt, thing box decals, vault, phone, train (with LED),
> knight, back board decal, bookcase decal, and last but not least Uncle
> Fester! I will also be changing all the rubbers and bulbs and
> freshening up the playfield.
> Is there anything I should do first or last or whatever. Any help would
> be appreciated!
> Thanks!
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Ok I doubt that I am going to spend all the $$$ just to get a factory
look with the rivets. I guess I will have to use small bolts/nuts. I
don't know of anyone that has the tubular rivet setup.....
If anyone else has any tips I would appreciate hearing them. Thanks
again.....

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Your going to have to de-solder each wire eventually to get the wires in
through the holes on your new ramp.

I did mine one wire at a time to ensure I got it right and run the way same
as the original.
In getting the lamp holders out, I used a dremel to cut the rivet from
under. Keep it slow and do a bit, let cool, do a bit more, try and keep the
heat down because you don't want to melt the lamp socket.

I reattached the lamp sockets using tubular rivets just the same as the old
ones. Using screws, or standard rivets doesn't keep it looking geniune I
recon.

Does anyone know where I can get the replacement lamp socket plastic
mounts??

Cliff Tucker
TAF

"Larry G" <larrygeisler@zoominternet.net> wrote in message
news:1125816604.082607.79550@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I am in the process of installing a main ramp for the Addams Family.
> I was wondering if anyone else out there has done this before and had
> any tips for me?
> Is it customary to desolder all the switches, etc JUST to run the wire
> through the holes that are in the ramp? If not what do you do?
> Also what is the best device to get the flasher sockets off without
> damaging them or the playfield?
> And do most of you just use small bolts/nuts to put them back on?
> And while I'm at it I will be adding about all the mods that I've seen
> including cousin Itt, thing box decals, vault, phone, train (with LED),
> knight, back board decal, bookcase decal, and last but not least Uncle
> Fester! I will also be changing all the rubbers and bulbs and
> freshening up the playfield.
> Is there anything I should do first or last or whatever. Any help would
> be appreciated!
> Thanks!
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

The tubular rivits are available at places like Mcmaster Carr etc..
It's really not hard and the rivits are cheap. The tool for them is a
few bucks but It has paid for itself over and over.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Where do you get the tool? When checking the link from Toni and the guy
there made his own press because he said it costs 125.00! That is why I
said I would just use bolts.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

WOW..no I think I paid like 30-40 bucks for the tool but that was a
ways back. My Mcmaster carr catalog is at my shop and I am not there
right now BUT I just looked on line at http://www.mcmaster.com and
found the rivets and tool on page 3111 of their online catalog.
Split and Tubular Rivet Tool = $37.50 - $45.00 depending on the size
of rivets it will fold
Rivets are 5-14 bucks per box of 100 depending on the size.
You will have to do some measuring but I know I have 3 different size
rivets I use for most ramps etc.... All the same diameter but different
lengths depending on what Material your fastening.
Example would be if your fastening a flasher cap to a ramp you will
need a much longer rivet that if you were fastening some tensil steel
to the entryway of a ramp.
Mcmastrer-carr's customer service is usually pretty helpful as well.
You will also need to get the tiny washers that need to go on the
backside of the rivet. You can usually reuse the old one if you dont
damage them drilling out the old rivet but sometimes you have to get
into the washer to get the rivet to stop spinning so you can drill it
out.

I would maybe practice on your old ramp or a piece of scrap plexi or
something once you get this stuff. It's really pretty easy once you
have done it and if you own/work on pins they are a must.
Hope this helps!

Kurt

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Joseph A. 'Tony' Dziedzic wrote:
> A guy used to list a home-made rivet tool on eBay that usually sold for around
> $25 - 30. It did an acceptable job, although it did tend to scuff the heads
> of the rivets somewhat. I don't know if they're still available on eBay or
> not; worth a quick search for the eBay seller named "Hurky".
>
> I have a Bogart rivet press and a commercial hand squeezer tool. I'd be
> willing to rivet the sockets onto your new ramp if you'd pick up the postage
> both ways and throw in a buck for the rivets. Send me an e-mail if you're
> interested.
>
> Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic
>
> In article <1125930399.163591.149110@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>, "Larry G"
> <larrygeisler@zoominternet.net> wrote:
> >Where do you get the tool? When checking the link from Toni and the guy
> >there made his own press because he said it costs 125.00! That is why I
> >said I would just use bolts.
> >

Sounds like a different tool than what I use. There is no chance to
scuff the top of the rivet because with this tool you just hit the
rivet from the back side and it rolls the rivet over and onto the
washer. The top of the rivet is flat on a hard surface. If you need to
rivet IN a ramp (like a flap of something) you just set the ramp on a
open vice with a rag or something under it and that will allow you to
get in the bottom of the ramp etc...
It is easier with two people IF it's a tricky area. The second person
can hold the ramp so you can punch the rivet. But like I said...it's
pretty simple.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

A guy used to list a home-made rivet tool on eBay that usually sold for around
$25 - 30. It did an acceptable job, although it did tend to scuff the heads
of the rivets somewhat. I don't know if they're still available on eBay or
not; worth a quick search for the eBay seller named "Hurky".

I have a Bogart rivet press and a commercial hand squeezer tool. I'd be
willing to rivet the sockets onto your new ramp if you'd pick up the postage
both ways and throw in a buck for the rivets. Send me an e-mail if you're
interested.

Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic

In article <1125930399.163591.149110@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>, "Larry G"
<larrygeisler@zoominternet.net> wrote:
>Where do you get the tool? When checking the link from Toni and the guy
>there made his own press because he said it costs 125.00! That is why I
>said I would just use bolts.
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

OK thanks guys!
I looked on Ebay and I believe this is what tony was talking about.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13727&item=6199010310
I emailed him to see if he had any available now because this
particular auction is over. Can anyone tell me if the rivets he gives
with it are the ones I would need for this job?
And BTW Thanks Tony for offering to do that.... I will probably just
get one of these home made jobs if they work. That way I will always
have it.

 

[Mikey]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Joseph A. 'Tony' Dziedzic wrote:
> That's one version of the Hurky tool; he has others with a shallower throat.
> You'll also need 7/32 inch long rivets and backup washers in addition to the
> 1/8 and 3/16 inch ones that are included with the tool; I'm pretty sure the
> flash lamp sockets use 7/32 inch long rivets. While Williams originally used
> nickel-plated brass rivets, the steel ones will work OK.
>
> The tool does an OK job for occasional use; the design results in some
> scuffing of the rivet head, but it's fairly hard to see in most cases.
>
> Tony
>
> In article <1125966716.263647.71700@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, "Larry G"
> <larrygeisler@zoominternet.net> wrote:
> >OK thanks guys!
> >I looked on Ebay and I believe this is what tony was talking about.
> >http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13727&item=6199010310
> >I emailed him to see if he had any available now because this
> >particular auction is over. Can anyone tell me if the rivets he gives
> >with it are the ones I would need for this job?
> >And BTW Thanks Tony for offering to do that.... I will probably just
> >get one of these home made jobs if they work. That way I will always
> >have it.
> >I purchased the Hurky tool everything went fine.The one thing I did was to put scotch tape on top of the rivet head to keep it from scuffing as well as hold the rivet in place.Also putting tape on the bottom doesn't hurt and you can use both hands one to hold the clamp and the other to turn.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

That's one version of the Hurky tool; he has others with a shallower throat.
You'll also need 7/32 inch long rivets and backup washers in addition to the
1/8 and 3/16 inch ones that are included with the tool; I'm pretty sure the
flash lamp sockets use 7/32 inch long rivets. While Williams originally used
nickel-plated brass rivets, the steel ones will work OK.

The tool does an OK job for occasional use; the design results in some
scuffing of the rivet head, but it's fairly hard to see in most cases.

Tony

In article <1125966716.263647.71700@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, "Larry G"
<larrygeisler@zoominternet.net> wrote:
>OK thanks guys!
>I looked on Ebay and I believe this is what tony was talking about.
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13727&item=6199010310
>I emailed him to see if he had any available now because this
>particular auction is over. Can anyone tell me if the rivets he gives
>with it are the ones I would need for this job?
>And BTW Thanks Tony for offering to do that.... I will probably just
>get one of these home made jobs if they work. That way I will always
>have it.
>