Williams Tri-Zone sound problem

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

My William's Tri-Zone has sound for about the first minute of play and
then it goes out. I've swapped in known working sound and power boards
and the same problem is repeated. I've checked all the connections and
they seem to be fine... any other suggestions for something I'm
missing? Thanks! --Dan
2 answers Last reply
More about williams zone sound problem
  1. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    <tenthingszine@yahoo.com> wrote:
    > My William's Tri-Zone has sound for about the first minute of play and
    > then it goes out. I've swapped in known working sound and power boards
    > and the same problem is repeated. I've checked all the connections and
    > they seem to be fine... any other suggestions for something I'm
    > missing? Thanks! --Dan

    Several things can cause this in these old games- here's some things to
    check:

    - Look for cracked solder joints on the backs of the connector pins on the
    driver board- lower left connector. Re-flow with fresh solder. This
    connector is where the "signals" go out to the sound board, telling it to
    make noise. Remove the board and inspect for cracked joints. While you're
    in there, check for cracked joints on any/all of the other connector pins on
    the back of the board. This is probably the #1 problem with reliability and
    intermittent problems in these old games- just an old-age problem that
    should always be addressed when going through/overhauling your game.

    - Check for the same on the back of the sound board. Also can't hurt to do
    this on all the boards in your game- if you find one board with cracked
    joints, you will find others.

    - Volume control knob on the sound board is a common failure part, but if
    you've swapped in other boards and had same problem/symptoms, then most
    likely this isn't the case. But old volume pots can develop "dead" spots on
    the wiper contacts inside and cause sound to cut out intermittently.
    Sometimes spinning them back/forth repeatedly can help clean up connections,
    but if problem persists, you may have to replace the pot.

    - Check the voltage at your wall plug. If it is high (over 117vac) then the
    CPU chip on the sound board could be running hot as a result and
    "overheating" - making the board lock up. This is a problem more commonly
    seen on later model Wms games (up to 1983) but may be possible in the older
    ones too.

    Hope that helps!

    Ray J.
    --
    Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC
    Salt Lake City, Utah USA
    Web: www.actionpinball.com

    We're serious about pinball. Anything else is just for fun!
  2. Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

    my first thought was the volume pot also. does it have one in the cab?
    does the second board stay on in another game? maybe same problem on both?
    Timathie
    "Ray Johnson - Action Pinball" <staff@actionpinball.com> wrote in message
    news:-tadnStMxruNLr3eRVn-gw@aros.net...
    > <tenthingszine@yahoo.com> wrote:
    >> My William's Tri-Zone has sound for about the first minute of play and
    >> then it goes out. I've swapped in known working sound and power boards
    >> and the same problem is repeated. I've checked all the connections and
    >> they seem to be fine... any other suggestions for something I'm
    >> missing? Thanks! --Dan
    >
    > Several things can cause this in these old games- here's some things to
    > check:
    >
    > - Look for cracked solder joints on the backs of the connector pins on the
    > driver board- lower left connector. Re-flow with fresh solder. This
    > connector is where the "signals" go out to the sound board, telling it to
    > make noise. Remove the board and inspect for cracked joints. While
    > you're
    > in there, check for cracked joints on any/all of the other connector pins
    > on
    > the back of the board. This is probably the #1 problem with reliability
    > and
    > intermittent problems in these old games- just an old-age problem that
    > should always be addressed when going through/overhauling your game.
    >
    > - Check for the same on the back of the sound board. Also can't hurt to
    > do
    > this on all the boards in your game- if you find one board with cracked
    > joints, you will find others.
    >
    > - Volume control knob on the sound board is a common failure part, but if
    > you've swapped in other boards and had same problem/symptoms, then most
    > likely this isn't the case. But old volume pots can develop "dead" spots
    > on
    > the wiper contacts inside and cause sound to cut out intermittently.
    > Sometimes spinning them back/forth repeatedly can help clean up
    > connections,
    > but if problem persists, you may have to replace the pot.
    >
    > - Check the voltage at your wall plug. If it is high (over 117vac) then
    > the
    > CPU chip on the sound board could be running hot as a result and
    > "overheating" - making the board lock up. This is a problem more commonly
    > seen on later model Wms games (up to 1983) but may be possible in the
    > older
    > ones too.
    >
    > Hope that helps!
    >
    > Ray J.
    > --
    > Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC
    > Salt Lake City, Utah USA
    > Web: www.actionpinball.com
    >
    > We're serious about pinball. Anything else is just for fun!
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
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